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'lightest.bike' 1.7kg 1000w mid drive
- Thread starter Grantmac
- Start date
raylo32
🚴♂️ Mega poster
Maybe the first or last 4 digits of the serial number?? In any case, they should be on their third cup of espresso over in Italy by now so hopefully you will receive an answer soon.
raylo32
🚴♂️ Mega poster
Is it as loud as the CYC X1 Pros?
So I received a code that might be unique to me? Don't know, don't care at this point. So all is well now?
NO.
I have applied the superhero QR code from the app, and updated the display firmware. But I am locked to Country: others, and/or 19mph speed limit on both PAS and throttle. It cannot be set to USA 1000W in country mode, or beyond 19Mph in manual mode.
I ordered the "OFFROAD" package!
Bikee makes you pay them an additional fee to turn off the governor:
Shop the Lightest e-Bike Conversion Kit
Shop the Lightest retrofit kit: electric bike motor, batteries, mounts, accessories and spares. Shipped from Motor Valley, Italy.lightest.bike
Yes, you have to pay an additional $74 to get a little button in the UI. But it looks like those that ordered the OFFROAD package shouldn't have to pay for governor-disable button. More confusion, nonsense, needless complexity, and nickle and diming.
Oh, and the motor sounds like a coffee grinder. I have a friend that used to ride a Sondors mid drive with a metal dive gear, and the Lightest motor is louder than that. It's loud enough that you probably don't need a bell/horn.
Dude, I'm pretty frustrated at this point. Will post an update when I have time for a 19mph ride.
Yikes dude 
I bought this with the plan to circumvent the controller entirely, not because it's poorly programmed/locked down, but because i don't want this extra heat it generates inside the case.. i also bought offroad too.. and now it sounds like i have 2 reasons to rip out that controller.
Curious to hear this sound.. i wonder if it's lower when on road and the mechanical bits have a few miles on them & have 'broken in'.
For clarity, are you running a 52v battery on a unit that didn't have 'special programming' to support a 52v batt, IE a regular 48v unit? ( i am thinking about using this voltage myself )
I bought this with the plan to circumvent the controller entirely, not because it's poorly programmed/locked down, but because i don't want this extra heat it generates inside the case.. i also bought offroad too.. and now it sounds like i have 2 reasons to rip out that controller.
Curious to hear this sound.. i wonder if it's lower when on road and the mechanical bits have a few miles on them & have 'broken in'.
For clarity, are you running a 52v battery on a unit that didn't have 'special programming' to support a 52v batt, IE a regular 48v unit? ( i am thinking about using this voltage myself )
Interesting, i was told i'd need to send it back to Italy for custom programming to run 52v. That's why i was relenting on buying a battery, wanted to know if 52v worked on your setup, but lookee there, there's settings for it already.
Too bad you can't change the wheel size to larger to bypass the speed limit, you already have 29" wheels.
I'm wondering how the motor is even detecting speed.. hopefully not via GPS!
Too bad you can't change the wheel size to larger to bypass the speed limit, you already have 29" wheels.
I'm wondering how the motor is even detecting speed.. hopefully not via GPS!
Wow, major turnaround in the last inning here!
Interesting that the drive train is the quiet part, that's a great sign. I wonder if it has a squarewave controller inside. The motor is probably very high RPM and that would make a square wave a real screecher...
Is the pedal cadence on this motor around 100rpm; can the motor outpedal you a lot basically? or is it reasonable @ 52v?
The 'too small a sprocket' problem is no surprise. Want that mid mount back?
I like the dual chainring configuration because i can easily get away with the higher cadence from higher voltage by gearing the mid drive down.. this way i can increase the power of the mid drive.. taking the controller out of the shell should approximately counteract the additional heat from the extra 4v.
Let me know about this cadence issue and i will immediately order an appropriate battery and start my experiments with this drive.
Interesting that the drive train is the quiet part, that's a great sign. I wonder if it has a squarewave controller inside. The motor is probably very high RPM and that would make a square wave a real screecher...
Is the pedal cadence on this motor around 100rpm; can the motor outpedal you a lot basically? or is it reasonable @ 52v?
The 'too small a sprocket' problem is no surprise. Want that mid mount back?
I like the dual chainring configuration because i can easily get away with the higher cadence from higher voltage by gearing the mid drive down.. this way i can increase the power of the mid drive.. taking the controller out of the shell should approximately counteract the additional heat from the extra 4v.
Let me know about this cadence issue and i will immediately order an appropriate battery and start my experiments with this drive.
I'm not sure how valid this test would be but try this..
Try one gear below 19mph that results in 15mph or somesuch..
See if you can actually add speed by pedaling at a mid-high cadence.
If you can't and have to pedal unsustainably fast to raise the speed, this would indicate to me that 52v probably runs at too high of cadence.
The difference in voltage between 48v and 52v is 8%.
So let's say if the cadence is at 85RPM on 48v, it's 92RPM on 52v.
So the higher cadence isn't a problem as long as the stock cadence is conservative.
How nice that you built additional thermal mass into the drive! you may be capable of a bit more power than stock thanks to that.
Try one gear below 19mph that results in 15mph or somesuch..
See if you can actually add speed by pedaling at a mid-high cadence.
If you can't and have to pedal unsustainably fast to raise the speed, this would indicate to me that 52v probably runs at too high of cadence.
The difference in voltage between 48v and 52v is 8%.
So let's say if the cadence is at 85RPM on 48v, it's 92RPM on 52v.
So the higher cadence isn't a problem as long as the stock cadence is conservative.
How nice that you built additional thermal mass into the drive! you may be capable of a bit more power than stock thanks to that.
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I know it would be a hack, but what about sticking a pulse divider circuit between the speedo sensor and the signal input? It would cut the reported speed in half, with all the downsides that may cause in displayed data, etc., but it would allow the system to continue responding to your input up to 38mph.
rhauff
🔌 New-ish
Can you just enter 16" for the wheel diameter?
raylo32
🚴♂️ Mega poster
Looking at the tables... what is the point of the "high torque" row when it is "no" for every case??
I could be wrong about this but the difference between the 750w and 1000w versions may be just the controller, not the motor.
750w correlates to a speed of ~28mph so it makes no sense your speed is limited that low in the USA. Might as well buy a $200 geared hub motor at that point.
bikeee boys make it clear as mud as to what speed you should get.. i hope they can fix this for you.
750w correlates to a speed of ~28mph so it makes no sense your speed is limited that low in the USA. Might as well buy a $200 geared hub motor at that point.
bikeee boys make it clear as mud as to what speed you should get.. i hope they can fix this for you.
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