Do MTB Brake Brackets cross over to Ebike ? 200 mm Front, options for better brakes.

[Moretorque]

I want need better brakes, how much will it help to put a 200 mm disc up front with just a bigger bracket rotor change or should I do better. I have a better brake set up from a specialized RH with 200 mm but I need to find it, will it cross over? This is a cheap class 3 E bike ActBest. What is my best option for something that does not break the bank. I weigh alot and like going 25 to 30MPH all the time using the bike to get around town. Thanks for any help. By the way I love Ebikes now, they are sooo good. I will need to get a good one. I'm used to going up to 90 MPH in the woods off road. I am coming off of years and years of riding my CR 500 and this does fill the niche I was missing. Running grandma over while she is walking her dog on the sidewalk at 30 is way better than going 90 in the woods hitting tree's.

 

[A-DamW]

I want need better brakes, how much will it help to put a 200 mm disc up front with just a bigger bracket rotor change or should I do better. I have a better brake set up from a specialized RH with 200 mm but I need to find it, will it cross over? This is a cheap class 3 E bike ActBest. What is my best option for something that does not break the bank. I weigh alot and like going 25 to 30MPH all the time using the bike to get around town. Thanks for any help. By the way I love Ebikes now, they are sooo good. I will need to get a good one. I'm used to going up to 90 MPH in the woods off road. I am coming off of years and years of riding my CR 500 and this does fill the niche I was missing. Running grandma over while she is walking her dog on the sidewalk at 30 is way better than going 90 in the woods hitting tree's.

You can buy 200mm disc brake mounts:

200mm bike disc brake mount at DuckDuckGo

DuckDuckGo. Privacy, Simplified.

duckduckgo.com

Look out for grandma...

 

[Moretorque]

I love grandma but I love dogs more, I just load the dogs in my basket and take them home after grandma gets the clubbing. The Illuminati loves me, no more SS payments and population control all rolled into one. Thanks!

 

[lnanek]

After upgrading to largest size disc rotor you'd usually go for hydraulic brakes with the most pistons after that. I've seen them with as many as six.

There's various rotor options too. Hope brakes have thicker rotors. Shimano have rotors that float on a carrier to dissipate heat better.

Some pads have extra fins to dissipate heat as well.

Cheap ebikes only have cable actuated brakes so you are more limited there unless you replace the lever. There's cable actuated hydraulic brakes for that case, and even converters that can convert cable pull into a hydraulic hose.

 

[Moretorque]

I had some descent cable brakes, I forgot the name ... Now I remember I think BBs? I think if I run a 200 mm in front and 160 in back is that usually enough? I saw floating rotors or non? I just want descent braked that are afforbable. I only want to spend like 75 max on each bike. These are cheap bikes that work good however for what I do. They probably need good Down Hill rims for dealing with Grandma?

 

[Moretorque]

Are the front and rear brackets the same?

 

[dgc]

As I have said elsewhere I have now switched over to either 15x100mm or 15x110mm BOOST (Rockshox 35 Silver) forks which means I could run 180mm to 220mm rotors at the front along with a 160mm QR on the rear, I am not on a high powered e-bike so 180mm front and 160mm rear suits my needs. But this is where it can get dangerous it depend on what the fork manufacturer says as some say 180mm max others say 203mm with an adapter on a front fork with a QR hub. I currently use Clarks M3000 Ebike brakes with the 180mm front and 160mm rear discs which are rated for about 30 mph, my other e-bike has got Clarks Sync 2E Ebike brakes, as before both suit my needs. I do have couple of sets of 4 pot brakes but have not needed to use them at the moment as they tend to over brake on the front. But my e-bikes are built as lightweights weighing 40lbs all up along with me at 140lb. If you have a caliper mount on the forks one just fits a spacer to suit the rotor size. Hydraulic brakes are definite requirement braking power and feel totally different to cable and cable / hydraulic systems. I do use the floating rotors with the alloy spider better heat dissipation so they say, I just like the look of them. A couple of old pictures one has Rockshox 35 Silver forks along with my new build which is a Boardman 29er.

 

[dgc]

Are the front and rear brackets the same?

If the bike has hydraulic caliper mounts already you only need a spacer to suit the new rotor size.

 

[Moretorque]

I am fixing to buy 2 203 mm and 2 180mm with the brackets and see how that works with the cable brakes and go from there. Is this the right way to start or no. Can I add hydraulics calipers later to this. Do I need EBIKE or will mountain bike stuff do ok? 4 rotors and 4 brackets are only 50 bucks. Thanks for the help.

 

[lnanek]

Personally, I found spending $40 on the cheapest cable operated hydraulic calipers to be a huge upgrade:

https://a.co/d/02bUUfBt

I did later upgraded to 200mm rotors, but didn't notice any difference. I started with these floating ones:

https://a.co/d/01mG36GO

Then later went with these solid ones:

https://a.co/d/0cFrgltH

Because I found the floating ones were sometimes a little difficult to adjust because they are a bit thicker where the outside ring is connected to the carrier and could scrape easier.

That said, I don't even know what brakes I started with. Some squeaking crap that could hardly stop that came with my Rattan LF-750 eBike. If I had just upgraded the pads and the calipers to the best mechanical disc brakes, like Avid BB7, or something, maybe that would have been enough.

 

[Moretorque]

Thanks for the help,

 

[dgc]

I used the Xtech HB-100 line pull hydraulic calipers years back, took them off not a lot better than standard cable brakes and went all hydraulic, did use the DYISLAND XT7 line pull hydraulic calipers which seemed better. Myself, save your money, put it towards a good full hydraulic system.

 

[Apartunis]

Are the front and rear brackets the same?

Yes, but the same IS bracket fits a 20mm larger rotor on the front that it does on the rear. Post mount adapters increase rotor size by a fixed amount on whatever posts you have.

Hydraulic disc calipers leak and fail regularly and are difficult to fix when that happens. Avid BB7 or TRP Spyke with big rotors and metallic pads are the best compromise for performance with reliability and serviceability.

 

[dgc]

If you use good quality hydraulic brakes then there is no major problems with leaks, the photos in my previous comment above these two bikes have covered over 5000+ miles between them with no leaks so far, what had leaked was the Xtech HB-100 line pull hydraulic calipers which I took off. may not have Clarks brakes over there but something like the Shimano BR-BL-M315 for example but you will have to make sure the brake assemblies are the correct hand, we have the front brake lever on the right hand side not sure if you have the front brake on the left hand side, I do not worry as it only takes me a few minutes to bleed the brakes if I switch the hoses over and or cut the rear brake to shorten it.

 

[lnanek]

There's also highly rated hybrid brakes like TRP's or Yokozuna Ultimo. Even AliExpress has several that are better than the Zooms since they have a fluid reservoir.

Fully hydraulic are better, of course. That said, I like motor cut off switches built into all my levers. So for someone just starting out, it may be more complications to add a sensor to a new hydraulic lever and mount that or get new hydraulic levers with sensors built-in and wire them up.

 

[Moretorque]

Yes, but the same IS bracket fits a 20mm larger rotor on the front that it does on the rear. Post mount adapters increase rotor size by a fixed amount on whatever posts you have.

Hydraulic disc calipers leak and fail regularly and are difficult to fix when that happens. Avid BB7 or TRP Spyke with big rotors and metallic pads are the best compromise for performance with reliability and serviceability.

That is what I have Avid BB7 with 200 MM Rotors but I cannot find them as of yet. I will tell you a mod I did to them that made them 20 % better. Shim the arm out further with nuts so the engage arm has more leverage, you will be surprised!

 

[Moretorque]

If you use good quality hydraulic brakes then there is no major problems with leaks, the photos in my previous comment above these two bikes have covered over 5000+ miles between them with no leaks so far, what had leaked was the Xtech HB-100 line pull hydraulic calipers which I took off. may not have Clarks brakes over there but something like the Shimano BR-BL-M315 for example but you will have to make sure the brake assemblies are the correct hand, we have the front brake lever on the right hand side not sure if you have the front brake on the left hand side, I do not worry as it only takes me a few minutes to bleed the brakes if I switch the hoses over and or cut the rear brake to shorten it.

I have had hydraulic brakes on all my motorcycles and I agree cables are more reliable.

 

[dgc]

If you are looking for Avid BB7 they seem to be on Ebay but from china or the TRP SPYKE mechanical brake caliper, there is online comparisons between the two.

 

[OlderGiantFan]

There is no question that hydraulic brakes are better than cable, and in 15 years I've never had a leak or an issue other than bent rotors, my fault. Going cable because of the motor cutout sounds reasonable, but how many times has it actually made a difference? Has anyone ever run into a brick wall because their motor ran for an extra second?

I can understand it if you had a big front hub motor, but I can slam on the front anchors on my 1350 sportbike, while maintaining power to the rear wheel and it pulls up very fast. Two finger emergency braking, you don't have time to roll the throttle back. You barely have time to dig your knees into the tank so you don't fly off! The extra stopping power of hydraulic brakes makes all the difference.

 

[DogDipstick]

... 200mm? 203mm? Lol joke. Shimanos... and the Mags... I hvave used both Shimano 200 and the Magura

220mm ? Still a joke. Maguras...

You want to stop faster? You want to shave the top 50mph off, not the bottom 50?

As you ride?

Buy this. Lol. I run Galfers only on organic pads. Muchahahah the venerable 243mm that makes your bike look like a rocketbike with 310mm galfers. Lol.

Galfer 246mm Rotor 6-Bolt 2.3mm Wave | eBay

This Galfer 246mm Rotor is designed with 6-Bolt 2.3mm Wave pattern for superior performance and durability. The brand name speaks for itself, and this product is no exception. It is compatible with various motorcycle and scooter models, and is perfect for those looking to upgrade their braking...

www.ebay.com

Or buy a bicycle fork with double front disk brake mounts. Run two disk in the front.

every cent you invest in the front does 10x more good than every cent you invest in the rear. IF you look.. even 200hp racing motorcycles still have 180-200mm rear rotors that look like.. cheese... single piston non floating ... 200mph...


but the fronts look like they cost 10,000$ typically on rcing motorcycles. Cause front = stop the bike .... slow the bike... rears mean.. just slide farther with the more weight transfer as they work. Locking up the rear... sliding the tire... .. rendering them eventually useless if you are going with enough energy forward...

invest in the front.

 

[dgc]

Something like these

I still prefer Rockshox forks or similar with a 220 mm rotor and a 4 pot hydraulic brake. This where one gets to the point of needing a tapered steerer tube on the forks along with the frame to take the tapered steerer. I do have a set of Rockshox 35 e-bike forks with the 1.8" tapered steerer tube but they still only rate the fork for a 220mm rotor, perhaps we are looking at the strength of the frame's head stock area. I am reminded of my old motorbike where the front wheel was filled with two big rotors.

 

[Moretorque]

Thanks, my MotoX motorcycles I had issues with hydraulic brakes from crashing. the Avid BB7 have gone up in price a good bit over the last 15 years.

 

[dgc]

Yep, every bloody thing at the moment is going up, what's not helping is the middle east crisis with a 22%+ increase in fuel alone. Ho hum. Government is very happy with the increased taxes they are pulling in.

 

[Moretorque]

Yep, every bloody thing at the moment is going up, what's not helping is the middle east crisis with a 22%+ increase in fuel alone. Ho hum. Government is very happy with the increased taxes they are pulling in.

It's not the middle East, that entire region do be a British colony. They be hop'in dee sheep be daa dumb and ain't able to figure it.

 

[Moretorque]

OK I found my BB7 stuff and rotors, Will the BB7 work with the stock brake lever and cable setup with correct spacer?. I know just look but I want to know before I go try and put it all together.