• Hello ES! We could use some help to get us past the finish line on building the new knowledgebase for the forum.
    Can you donate? Please see our fundraising page. Thank you!

Hot, Need Help No Throttle.

furcifer

Regular
Joined
Dec 21, 2018
Messages
776
I've got this cheap combo I'm trying to hook up Brushless Motor Controller, Waterproof 24V-48V Motor Controller, LCD Display Electric Bike Scooter Brushless Controller Kit(36V/48V 350W) : Amazon.ca: Sports & Outdoors

The problem is I can't get the throttle to work. Even setting the display to Throttle only the wheel will not turn

The only way to get the wheel to spin is to connect intelligent wires and increase the PAS 1, then it will spin without turning (free wheeling) the wheel, I unplug and plug it back in and the wheel will start turning. It stays at the same speed in PAS 1-2-3-4-5 and turns off at 0.

I've tested the throttle previously and it was working fine, proper voltages to the proper wires.

I don't have the sensor wires connected now. They weren't helping and now one of the wires is broke.

The last bit of info is I don't have a chain on the bike. I don't think this was a problem when I had it going last Summer.

Anyways, I started early this morning because it was supposed to be hot and this snafu has taken me to the point where the sun is overhead and there's no shade ad it's like 120F on the patio.

I can provide pictures and videos but I suspect this is one you've either seen or you haven't.
 
I've got this cheap combo I'm trying to hook up Brushless Motor Controller, Waterproof 24V-48V Motor Controller, LCD Display Electric Bike Scooter Brushless Controller Kit(36V/48V 350W) : Amazon.ca: Sports & Outdoors

The problem is I can't get the throttle to work. Even setting the display to Throttle only the wheel will not turn

The only way to get the wheel to spin is to connect intelligent wires and increase the PAS 1, then it will spin without turning (free wheeling) the wheel, I unplug and plug it back in and the wheel will start turning. It stays at the same speed in PAS 1-2-3-4-5 and turns off at 0.

I've tested the throttle previously and it was working fine, proper voltages to the proper wires.

I don't have the sensor wires connected now. They weren't helping and now one of the wires is broke.

The last bit of info is I don't have a chain on the bike. I don't think this was a problem when I had it going last Summer.

Anyways, I started early this morning because it was supposed to be hot and this snafu has taken me to the point where the sun is overhead and there's no shade ad it's like 120F on the patio.

I can provide pictures and videos but I suspect this is one you've either seen or you haven't.
My notes say versions of the S866 display work with JN/DC Moto, or Brainpower controllers. Self learning routines vary, so you may need to follow a different procedure to get it to identify, and save, the right configuration. I’ve noticed when the jumper is removed, or whether to power cycle the controller differ depending on the controller.
Example for Brainpower:
Self-learning procedure
  1. Put the drive wheel off the ground.
    • Use a stand or lift the wheel so it can spin freely.
  2. Verify all motor connections are made.
    • Battery connected.
    • Three phase wires connected.
    • Hall sensor connector connected (if your motor has Hall sensors).
  3. Turn on the controller.
  4. Connect the two white self-learning wires together.
    • After a few seconds the motor should begin rotating slowly on its own.
  5. Check the rotation direction.
    • If the wheel spins in the desired direction, leave the learning wires connected for about 6–8 seconds.
    • Then disconnect the learning wires.
  6. If the wheel spins backward:
    • Disconnect the learning wires.
    • Reconnect them again.
    • The controller should try the alternate direction.
    • Once the wheel rotates correctly, wait 6–8 seconds and disconnect the learning wires.
  7. Power-cycle the controller and test the throttle.
    • The motor should now start smoothly and run in the learned direction.
 
Thanks for the quick reply E-HP The throttle is working but the connectors aren't making contact. When you shove a voltmeter probe up their arse they connect and show voltage, but without it they wouldn't make contact.
How much money can you possibly save use 40AWG wire instead of 14AWG? They're impossible to work with and break just looking at them. It's a 1mm connector on a 0.8mm wire, you can't splice them or even solder them. smh

It's only 98.6F outside but with the humidex "feels like 114F" And getting hotter for the next couple hours.
 
Thanks for the quick reply E-HP The throttle is working but the connectors aren't making contact. When you shove a voltmeter probe up their arse they connect and show voltage, but without it they wouldn't make contact.
How much money can you possibly save use 40AWG wire instead of 14AWG? They're impossible to work with and break just looking at them. It's a 1mm connector on a 0.8mm wire, you can't splice them or even solder them. smh

It's only 98.6F outside but with the humidex "feels like 114F" And getting hotter for the next couple hours.
Thicker wire might cost them a penny profit or cut into their workers wages, so if they can make the sale anyway, there’s no reason to change
🤷🏽
 
Thicker wire might cost them a penny profit or cut into their workers wages, so if they can make the sale anyway, there’s no reason to change
🤷🏽
I guess, but I bet there's a return pile in an Amazon warehouse with a thousand ebikes and motors that have one of these JST connectors with 1 bent pin making them junk.
Automotive grade, GM style or Yazaki connector are too big for use on a bicycle, but most of these bikes are wired like children's toys. Molex would probably be a better choice and readily available. The sensor wires on this hub motor have like 3 or 4 strands of copper. I have a kit and a crimper but they're even too small for it.

Is there any reason to fix the sensor connector and keep it connected? Seems to work fine without it. I broke a red wire and a blue one isn't staying in the connector. And I'm not running PAS on this ditch pig which I think is the only reason it would need the sensor.
 
Back
Top