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Help with installing flipsky to my ebike

VeNoMx105

🧲 New user
Joined
Aug 3, 2025
Messages
6
Location
Phoenix, Arizona
Hi everyone I am new to the world of ebikes. I have had my amyet v9 g60 for 2 weeks now. I'm looking to gain 5-10mph. I'm getting max 28mph right now. And most importantly more torque/acceleration. Here are my current parts.

48v 1000w rear hub motor
48v 20ah battery
48v 20A controller

Can I achieve what I'm looking for with the flipsky? I don't want to commit to it if it's not. Also is it safe for the motor and battery? I use throttle only and travel about 9-12 miles hopefully the battery last for that. Another thing I'm confused about is the current wires on my controller they are all condensed into big plugs can I just carefully strip them and then match the wires to the flipsky? If i missed anything or you need more info please let me know. Any advice or better ideas are much appreciated! I'll attach photos of the current controller.IMG_20250803_150351854.jpgIMG_20250803_150456926.jpg
 
You could get another ~5mph using a controller that has flux weakening.
The ebikes.ca phaserunner and any VESC would work.
The only problem is that you'll find yourself replacing all the associated electronics ( maybe throttle, definitely screen ) and you'll need to rewire some things.

But this would open up the possibility to running a higher voltage battery for even more speed.

This bike is advertised as going up to 32mph. Have you messed with the existing power settings yet?

ps - flipsky build quality isn't great, i suggest buying a better quality VESC so that you only have to rewire this bike once.
 
You could get another ~5mph using a controller that has flux weakening.
The ebikes.ca phaserunner and any VESC would work.
The only problem is that you'll find yourself replacing all the associated electronics ( maybe throttle, definitely screen ) and you'll need to rewire some things.

But this would open up the possibility to running a higher voltage battery for even more speed.

This bike is advertised as going up to 32mph. Have you messed with the existing power settings yet?

ps - flipsky build quality isn't great, i suggest buying a better quality VESC so that you only have to rewire this bike once.
Thanks for the info! I'm definitely up for wiring and soldering I just want to know if it will work so I can commit to it as I have no experience but have been doing research. Yes I actually changed the settings that are supposed to unlock the full speed the screen on the bike shows 32mph but on my gps I'm only getting 28mph so I'm thinking the advertisement is false. But I'm more then happy with the speed (don't mind a increase in mph though ) I just would like more torque/acceleration most importantly. Btw if I were to do this I have everything I need on the old controllers wires to wire to the flipsky and get it working correct?
 
Sounds like you might be pushing the battery already. the batteyr has to supply the entire power used to do whatever job you're having the system do for you. If it isn't capable of t hat but the BMS isn't able to or designed to shut it down above what the cells can actually do, the voltage will drop as more current is demanded to try to supply more power. That prevents the system from getting the power need to go the higher speed, which also requires (without field weakening) higher voltage to force the motor to spin faster.

So...the inability to go faster now may be the battery itself, rather than the controller. But it's probably both.

If so, it's a fair bet you'll need a new, more capable, probably better quality, battery to get what you want out of the system.

Also, if you want better acceleration, you need more current out of hte battery into the controller to have it convert into phase current from teh motor, which will cause more voltage sag, and it's easily possible that at lower states of charge SoC as the battery is more empty than full it could trigger either controller or battery LVC and shut the system down as you're trying to acclerate (if this happens in traffic it could be a problem). The battery you have now is probalby only built to supply the current the original controller requires, and probalby just barely that (they won'ts pend more moeny than they have to to build these things).
 
Hi everyone I am new to the world of ebikes. I have had my amyet v9 g60 for 2 weeks now. I'm looking to gain 5-10mph. I'm getting max 28mph right now. And most importantly more torque/acceleration. Here are my current parts.

48v 1000w rear hub motor
48v 20ah battery
48v 20A controller

Can I achieve what I'm looking for with the flipsky? I don't want to commit to it if it's not. Also is it safe for the motor and battery? I use throttle only and travel about 9-12 miles hopefully the battery last for that. Another thing I'm confused about is the current wires on my controller they are all condensed into big plugs can I just carefully strip them and then match the wires to the flipsky? If i missed anything or you need more info please let me know. Any advice or better ideas are much appreciated! I'll attach photos of the current controller.View attachment 374646View attachment 374647
Unless you’re swapping out the motor, you need to swap the battery for a 72v pack, and replace the controller with any cheap 72v controller that can output around 30A.
 
Sounds like you might be pushing the battery already. the batteyr has to supply the entire power used to do whatever job you're having the system do for you. If it isn't capable of t hat but the BMS isn't able to or designed to shut it down above what the cells can actually do, the voltage will drop as more current is demanded to try to supply more power. That prevents the system from getting the power need to go the higher speed, which also requires (without field weakening) higher voltage to force the motor to spin faster.

So...the inability to go faster now may be the battery itself, rather than the controller. But it's probably both.

If so, it's a fair bet you'll need a new, more capable, probably better quality, battery to get what you want out of the system.

Also, if you want better acceleration, you need more current out of hte battery into the controller to have it convert into phase current from teh motor, which will cause more voltage sag, and it's easily possible that at lower states of charge SoC as the battery is more empty than full it could trigger either controller or battery LVC and shut the system down as you're trying to acclerate (if this happens in traffic it could be a problem). The battery you have now is probalby only built to supply the current the original controller requires, and probalby just barely that (they won'ts pend more moeny than they have to to build these things).
Fair enough you're right this ebike is already being pushed with it's hardware. That's sounds so terrifying having a bike stop when you need to be moving! How can I avoid this at all cost?(I use throttle only no pedals). I know you mentioned the battery being super important when buying one what do I need to watch out for? I'm keeping this bike the way it is and upgrading in the future. What motor controller and battery do you recommend so I can achieve 35-40mph and high torque/acceleration
 
Unless you’re swapping out the motor, you need to swap the battery for a 72v pack, and replace the controller with any cheap 72v controller that can output around 30A.
So i need to upgrade to a 72v system? Is that overkill? I just want to reach speeds of 35-40mph and have high torque/acceleration.
 
How can I avoid this at all cost?
If you're serious about solving your issues at all costs, then most things can be solved. But if someone suggests a solution, and you end up saying it costs too much, then it will just be a frustrating exercise for everyone.
 
This is the unfortunate thing about a prebuilt bike - none of the components have any overhead in them, so the additional speed you could get usually isn't much. This bike has a short wheelbase also, and this can become a problem as the speed increases.

Luckily you have a bike with 20" wheels. Any hub motor will have a very high power density because it's geared down compared to the 26" or 29" the hub motor was built for. The higher the RPM the motor, the better. That's why i recommend flux weakening.

If you didn't specify the parts on the bike yourself, how else are you going to get what you want? you don't know what you want when you first buy an ebike, so consider this bike your way of finding out.

A lot of people buy a bike like this and then later become DIYers like us ;)
 
So i need to upgrade to a 72v system? Is that overkill? I just want to reach speeds of 35-40mph and have high torque/acceleration.
No, it's simply what you need if you've described your current system and motor accurately. More speed requires more voltage. More current is only required to produce more speed if you're already up against the wind and rolling resistance preventing the motor from achieving it's rated speed. To go 38mph, you need around 2300W, but you need the motor to be able to spin fast enough for 38mph in the first place, and that takes higher voltage.
 
Hey guys I plan on getting these parts for the future will they be enough to get what I need 35-40mph and high torque/acceleration sorry for sounding like a broken record lol.

Flipsky 75100 pro v2 ( or any 60v controller what amps would I need btw)
60V 24AH 50A BMS battery
60V 1500W Motor
 
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If you're serious about solving your issues at all costs, then most things can be solved. But if someone suggests a solution, and you end up saying it costs too much, then it will just be a frustrating exercise for everyone.
Im sorry I meant to say how can I avoid that from happening (bike stopping in the middle of a road) no I would not cheap out on any parts that I will buy in the future.
 
Not your motor, but an example of how voltage, and to a lesser extent current/power is needed to get you from around 28 mph to around 38 mph. If we knew what motor you have, this could be fine tuned, but the relationships would be the same. Assuming you have 20" fat tires, 21" is used for the actual tire diameter. Motor Kv has been adjusted to match your existing speeds using that tire diameter. In the example, 39.2 mph is achieve using 2446W. Knowing more about your actual components could make this more accurate, but I suspect the results will still point to 72V @ 30A for your motor.


1754324070686.png
 
These figures might be worse because you have a fat tire bike.

On a MTB with wide road tires, an above average efficiency motor, and with you in a nice tuck position, you'll see 2000w continuous at 40mph while pedaling.

This bike is very aerodynamically challenged, has a lot of tire drag, and the wheelbase is tiny compared to a MTB so i would not recommend modding it for too much extra power - it's the wrong chassis for much over 30mph.
2025-08-04 10_35_15-AMYET V9-G60 1000W 20Ah Electric Bike - Black – AMYET eBikes.jpg

What you probably want is a boost in battery voltage and a new controller/electronics. Motor will likely keep up - but we don't know for sure what motor you are using here to say for sure.
 
What you probably want is a boost in battery voltage and a new controller/electronics. Motor will likely keep up - but we don't know for sure what motor you are using here to say for sure.
Ya, I should have noted that in my example, the motor cooks itself in 16 minutes, so it can’t run all day at WOT.
 
Given that we don't know anything about the motor, here's what i do:
Gradually increment power, ride in difficult conditions, check heat, repeat until you see about 60-70c on the case.

That's why experimenting with flux weakening is a good idea - you can get a taste of how it performs on higher voltages.
 
I noticed your location say's you're here in Phoenix, AZ: Something I'd like to point out is that you're probably going to get stopped and your bike taken away from you by the police when you ride faster than the legal speeds. They're not all sticklers...but some of them are, and they're not very nice. Probably not as bad as in Tucson where they have stopped people for 1mph over the ebike limit but.... I don't know how much they charge you / what tickets they write when they do it but I imagine it's not cheap, and I don't think you'll ever get the bike back.

So...you might want to consider keeping it under 28mph.
 
Really - it's that bad out there?
AW, are you in the suburbs or more the urbs?

What doesn't help is that this ebike is very clearly and ebike instead of a bike with a motor on it.
If you are in a busty area you best be pedaling..
 
Really - it's that bad out there?
AW, are you in the suburbs or more the urbs?

There isn't really an urban/suburban thing here--it's a giant sprawl that varies in character significantly over relatively short distances.

I'm in the Metrocenter area, findable with googlemaps/etc, if you want to see the city layout around here. I am almost always, these days, within 5 miles of MC, with rare trips outside that (taking a dog to the vet, picking something up on freecycle/trashnothing/etc, and so one). Most of my rides are only about 10-15 minutes long, over less than three miles, all on the street, with traffic, except for where I have to go thru a parking lot in a few places.

I generally see a dozen or two police vehicles in that time, and some days it's more. When I'm at work I can hear their sirens several times a day, or the blipblipblip of them stopping someone on a street nearby, and at home it's the same, and every few weeks a helicopter booming out words from their "megaphone" at someone they're chasing (often late at night, but can be anytime). The sirens are much less frequent than they used to be not because there are less police / stops / etc., but because for quite a while (years) now they often drive fast chasing or responding without using any sirens or lights for whatever reason.




What doesn't help is that this ebike is very clearly and ebike instead of a bike with a motor on it.
None of my creations in the last decade+ (other than a test bike or two) have been bicycle-like, but I don't generally have any issues because I ride safely and within the rules of the road, etc. Even so, I've been stopped on nearly everything I ride at least once, either because they wanted to see what I was doing or where I was going, or because they wanted to know what I was riding, or because they wanted to thank me for having "the right lighting" or whatever.

But if they'll stop *me* for those, they'll certainly stop others for breaking rules (no, they definitely don't stop everyone breaking a rule). A long while back I saw a lady riding around at night with some partly-blinky christmas lights on her regular pedal bike (I presume to be more easily seen) that had done this for as long as I'd seen her around, who was stopped because she had lights of the wrong color showing on it, and was forced to remove them (I don't know if she was ticketed or not; I dont' remember most of the long and complicated story she had about the police interaction).


If you are in a busty area you best be pedaling..
There's plenty of gas motor and electric motor bikes that people ride without pedalling...but all the ones I see that get left alone are not zipping around, and are riding within the rules of the road.

The ones I've seen or heard of that aren't left alone are zipping around at higher than legal speeds (or higher than safe for the area), or are not riding like cyclists or other road users should. I hardly ever see fast riders in this area, but I see plenty of...well, I'll be nice...plenty of riders of powered and unpowered bicycles that ride the same way a fair number of drivers drive--like they were the only one on the road, like they were invincible, etc.



The other problem with going fast is that drivers (here at least) don't expect that, and they won't react to it correctly. (they dont' react correcly to *regular speed* cyclists)./ So such events can be dangerous to the rider at minimum, potentially others nearby depending on what happens during the interaction of rider and vehicle in that situation.
 
Okay that reminds me of a California like environment where it's heavily policed and they're out for revenue. Except nosier.
Would you say it's overpoliced or does the behavior of some locals justify the law and order?

I can a week without seeing a cop car here in the suburbs and they are usually just pulling people over for expired registration.
You have to really screw up to get pulled over.
Utah is a rare example of anarchy almost working.

No problem doing 40mph in the road when there's no bike lane in unpopulated areas, i occasionally see gasbikes whizzing by here and there.

I ride respectfully, always ride a stealth looking ebike, and i'm always pedaling at ~90RPM cadence so i think these moments i've been spotted doing 45 uphill by a cop, i got away with on appearances alone!
 
Would you say it's overpoliced or does the behavior of some locals justify the law and order?
I don't know why the police are out and about or why they are stopping or not stopping / etc those they interact with, in most cases, so I can't really answer that.

Some are obvious and probably necessary, but my personal opinion is that many of the interactions are probably unnecessary, and that there are others they would be better concentrating on, but without knowing the details of what is actually already happening in every case, my opinion is just that.

I'm sure there are plenty of vids out there showing interactions of local police and various people for various reasons that would show you what really happens.
 
I don't know why the police are out and about or why they are stopping or not stopping / etc those they interact with, in most cases, so I can't really answer that.

Some are obvious and probably necessary, but my personal opinion is that many of the interactions are probably unnecessary, and that there are others they would be better concentrating on, but without knowing the details of what is actually already happening in every case, my opinion is just that.

I'm sure there are plenty of vids out there showing interactions of local police and various people for various reasons that would show you what really happens.
I saw two ebike cops on the trail a couple of weeks ago, and it almost looked like they may have been policing the trail. Previously there were only cops commuting to work. They'll probably start ticketing the little old ladies using their throttles. I know it sounds cruel, but they're a dependable revenue stream because they always pay their fines.
 
I saw two ebike cops on the trail a couple of weeks ago, and it almost looked like they may have been policing the trail. Previously there were only cops commuting to work. They'll probably start ticketing the little old ladies using their throttles. I know it sounds cruel, but they're a dependable revenue stream because they always pay their fines.

You're in california right?
 
Hi everyone, Following.. and giving my story.. I am relatively new to this aspect of the e-bike world. I dabbled with some e-bike stuff about 7 years ago when I built out a custom "quad bike" as a display piece for my solar company.

1756318868851.png


That ended up turning into a burning man vehicle for my buddy! haha:

1756318950244.png

Anyway, long story long, I sold my Sprinter van a few months ago to travel South America, and now I am back. I have decided to not purchase a new vehicle for a while and just E-bike it.

I am a licesnsed solar electrian in a few states, so I am pretty good with electrical. I purcahsed this used bike bike a few weeks ago and I was very happy with it until I pushed it a little too hard and blew something.

1756319136106.png
The motor started doing some ssshuddering after I attemtped to go up a steep hill.
I took the motor apart and tested the Hall sensors because that is what I thought it was. Anyway, the sensors all looked good and now I think it is the controller. I do not have a lot of cash at the moment, so I am looking to upgrade it a little to make it a little more future proof, so I purchased a FlipSky 75200. I have figured out most of the wiring coming from all of the components. I should be able to hoook it up with realative ease.

My only concern is water intrusion... has anyone sealed one of those up? Other than that, thank you for all of the information you all put into this!
 
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