10S custom skate ESC: testers wanted!

chuttney1 said:
I know no one has asked this question. How does one go about removing flux from the VESC after resoldering. I only have rosin base soldering flux which is tacky. I was thinking of dunking it in a bath of 99% isopropyl alcohol to clean it.

A bath of isopropyl works perfectly for cleaning the board. A small brush such as a toothbrush also helps a lot.

I think I have seen that ESC in the video somewhere before ;) Thanks for the quick fixing.
Yes, that is your ESC :)
I have no idea why your DRV failed though, maybe a short somewhere. The motor worked fine when I tested it on my desk on 25V. I will try to test it under some load later.
 
Lurker here. I am currently waiting for components and PCBs to build two VESCs, but I noticed there is no power switch on it. I already have a switch on my enclosure that goes to my old ESC, and plugging the cables in and out each time is really out of the question for me. How would I go about making a power switch for it?

Also, did anyone successfully upload the firmware with the ST-Link v2 programmer on windows yet? After a lot of troubleshooting I was finally able to build it with make, but of course there is no way for me to try the upload process before I get it.
 
Hey guys I just tested the new hybrid firmware, working perfectly! Also did a ride with my 12s battery, had to be going atleast 35-40mph at max speed btw, the motor was 70c degree's(I have it geared way to high) and the esc was not even warm to the touch. Looking really good!!!
 
silviasol said:
Hey guys I just tested the new hybrid firmware, working perfectly! Also did a ride with my 12s battery, had to be going atleast 35-40mph at max speed btw, the motor was 70c degree's(I have it geared way to high) and the esc was not even warm to the touch. Looking really good!!!

Nice... 35-40mph pretty crazy lol :mrgreen:
 
Alexx said:
did anyone successfully upload the firmware with the ST-Link v2 programmer on windows yet?
I am about to buy a ST-Link v2 and I was thinking to just import the VESC_default.bin file to just program the firmware. Do you mean this would not work ?
(As I have another VESC, I think I could also try to clone its program memory to the VESC I need to reprogram).
 
torqueboards said:
You can use a On/Off Power Switch like on my site and/or you can use an anti-spark XT90 and create a loop key which would disconnect the positive connection.
Thanks. Does the switch support regen? I don't know about 60 bucks for a switch though. Thats about 20$ short of a new VESC. I'd think I'd rather create my own if it's not too difficult.

pf26 said:
I am about to buy a ST-Link v2 and I was thinking to just import the VESC_default.bin file to just program the firmware. Do you mean this would not work ?
I have no idea. It just seems like most people use linux for flashing the firmware so I was curious if anyone had done it successfully on windows yet. Did you build or download that bin-file? Running make gave me BLDC_4_ChibiOS.bin which I guess is the same...?
 
FYI do not use a 200kv+ motor with 12 series. My 270kv motor killed the drv8302 after one 7 mile ride. I didn't know but found out from vedder there is too much electical rpm with 200kv+ and 12 series. I hope this can be fixed in the future though, my goped sounded like a f1 racer running at 12s rpm and held up going up hill and against the wind with the 35 to 40mph I was going.
 
silviasol said:
FYI do not use a 200kv+ motor with 12 series. My 270kv motor killed the drv8302 after one 7 mile ride. I didn't know but found out from vedder there is too much electical rpm with 200kv+ and 12 series. I hope this can be fixed in the future though, my goped sounded like a f1 racer running at 12s rpm and held up going up hill and against the wind with the 35 to 40mph I was going.

Can you describe this electrical rpm overload ? :eek:

I am stacking a 195Kv at 14S (max 3.6V) :lol:
 
@Vanarian: How do you make sure you max at 3.6Volts only for your 14s ? The slightest regen will make voltage override this 3.6 volts, unless there is a trick ?
 
pf26 said:
@Vanarian: How do you make sure you max at 3.6Volts only for your 14s ? The slightest regen will make voltage override this 3.6 volts, unless there is a trick ?

The trick is in my battery setup, I went LifePo4 with a BMS and the BMS doesn't allow regenerative current so I kinda "cheat" since I can't go past 50,4V total like this. Equals to a 12S 4,2V Li-Ion (50,4V)
 
Oh nooooooooo ...
I have 230KV motors !!
Would it be OK with 10S ?

230kv and 10s should work fine.

@Vanarian: How do you make sure you max at 3.6Volts only for your 14s ? The slightest regen will make voltage override this 3.6 volts, unless there is a trick ?

The trick is in my battery setup, I went LifePo4 with a BMS and the BMS doesn't allow regenerative current so I kinda "cheat" since I can't go past 50,4V total like this. Equals to a 12S 4,2V Li-Ion (50,4V)

195 kv should work fine with that voltage. If the voltage doesn't go higher than on a 12s lipo you should be fine in most cases. A 12s lipo is also close to the limit, so even then you should be careful. However, if you BMS does not allow any regenrative braking at all, you won't have any brake at all. You are also very likely to break something when you try to brake then.

FYI do not use a 200kv+ motor with 12 series. My 270kv motor killed the drv8302 after one 7 mile ride. I didn't know but found out from vedder there is too much electical rpm with 200kv+ and 12 series. I hope this can be fixed in the future though, my goped sounded like a f1 racer running at 12s rpm and held up going up hill and against the wind with the 35 to 40mph I was going.

270kv which gives 100k ERPM allows very few samples at 35 khz switching frequency to track every commutation. Notice this is assuming that you use a 14 pole motor. Some outrunners, such as my scorpion outrunner, have even more poles and then the maximum KV is even lower.

Another problem is the high voltage itself. The ceramic capacitors will loose up to 80% of their rated capacitance at the rated voltage, which makes things even more sensitive. It might even make sense to change 4.7µF 50V caps to 2.2µF 100V. Or you could stack capacitors on the pads to get more capacitance.

I haven't tested it much, especially not with the IRFS7530 FETs which are more difficult to drive, but you could try increasing the switching frequency. Then you get more samples every commutation on high speed, but you could get the problem that the DRV can't keep up with the switching.

I will experiment more with this when I get home this weekend since I have a 270kv motor. It is not easy to make it work for every possible kv/inductance/resistance/voltage combination without having the setups myself.
 
@vanarian: if your BMS doesn't allow regenerative current to flow to the battery, this will limit battery voltage, but it does not mean it will prevent the motor/controller voltage to rise; I even think the opposite: there will be nothing to help limit this voltage rise, except the input capacitors..
I think it would be safer to have your bms allow some regen (unless your Lifepo4 battery is charged, it wont rise above 3.6).. and preferably try to configure the VESC to limit or avoid regen if possible. Anyone confirms ?
 
pf26 said:
@vanarian: if your BMS doesn't allow regenerative current to flow to the battery, this will limit battery voltage, but it does not mean it will prevent the motor/controller voltage to rise; I even think the opposite: there will be nothing to help limit this voltage rise, except the input capacitors..
I think it would be safer to have your bms allow some regen (unless your Lifepo4 battery is charged, it wont rise above 3.6).. and preferably try to configure the VESC to limit or avoid regen if possible. Anyone confirms ?

Yes, the voltage can rise very quickly if the supply won't use the regenerated energy. This always happens when running on lab power supplies. The over voltage protection should kick in if configured correctly and switch the motor off with a fault code. This has saved me many times.

Regarding braking: Regenerative braking is the only way to brake. If your supply cannot take any energy you cannot use any braking at all.
 
Sorry guys just a little off topic ATM!
I need so more VESC's for developers, if any one has spares that they have made up seems it's cheaper to buy parts in 10, I will buy them from you if not I will be putting in an order through mouser and hackvana this week for about 20 and they will be assembled at my university so if any one wants 1 or 5 let me know.

So the UI is complete just need to add the new hall sensor updates that have been added recently.

Some of the photos are doubled up to show all the data.

Really I'm not the best at coding so I'm paying some one, Vedder doesn't have much time but he has still offered to help!
This project will continue no matter what! But I need to ask if any one is willing to support this! Please contact me or Vedder and make a donation with a reference to the mobile app.
Android apk can be downloaded here for testing but it's just the UI, the UI has been made in QT using QML the data is all there and if you know what your doing you could even extract the UI as QML isn't decrypted and if it's written in pure QML there will be no C++ code making it so you can just copy and past the code.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bym9XrdeViekWlhXWmtacGxfUFU/edit?usp=docslist_api


Thanks every one for there support! If any one can join the project let me know!
 

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Ok so I've resigned vedders nunchuck PCB to help him out with all the pressure he is under. Iv made it to be the exact same size as an original wii nunchuck PCB, I will be taking preorders for this PCB and I will be posted on git hub very soon!

I taking numbers for the first beta of this boards. They will come fully assembled! In a wii nunchuck case.
The good thing I out these is you can install a 10k pot and trigger instead or you can install a slider bar!

And then we can get a library of 3d printing files! iv attached a photo of an original nunchuck PCB.
 

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Ok I'll try to configurate my BMS for regen, I was planning to use band brakes instead of motor regen braking so motor would only have acceleration and freewheeling. Thank you for the tips :)

Congrats on the app advancements Jacob !
 
sl33py said:
Dumb question time. You redesigned the Kama nunchuk or is this an upgraded PCB to make nunchuk connectivity more robust and reliable?
This looks like a PCB (with STM32F405+nRF24L01+) that fits inside the original Nunchuck (wired version) by Nintendo.

Congrats Jacok, I'd love to pre-order your controller.

Related, I also played with the original Nintendo Nunchuck and fitted an Arduino+nRF24L01+Adafruit joystick inside:
(almost fitted, it sticks out at the end)
FullSizeRender-36.jpg
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The Picoino Arduino doesn't have an integrated USB FTDI interface, so you can buy that separately, as in this picture:
FullSizeRender-39.jpg
This is using the USD10 Picoino Arduino with integrated nRF24L01+ socket:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WFM2N60?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

Still, when using VESC it is better to use your/Vedders STM32F405 PCB for more features.
 
This is vedder's PCB that he made to replace the Kama nunchuck internals. I asked Vedder if I could help redesign the PCB to actiualy fit inside of a wii nunchuck. The reason for this is the Kama nunchuck can be unreliable with RF and I know this is important, I tore my ACL in my knee because of a wii nunchuck attempt by alien. we can also add more features to this PCB later say oled screen!
One bad thing about the nyko Kama is the factory has stopped making them, so they are getting few and far between.

Attached is a photo of vedder's original nunchuck PCB.
 

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What plugs are the prots on the vesc made for? Is it jst xh just like all lipo balancing plugs? And can anyone tell me what kind of plug sensored motors usually come with? I think it is jst but smaller than balancer plugs but don't know how they are named exactly. Thanks!
 
Sounds about perfect. Either with a RX or direct to VESC! Please count me in for two if you can!

I have two Kama controllers, plus one memorex - do you know if this will work in the memorex nunchuks?

Thanks for helping Ben and taking this on Jacob!
 
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