19" Motorcycle Wheels vs 26" Bicycle Wheels (rim and tires)
- Thread starter GCinDC
- Start date
Rix
100 TW
macribs said:
I am not sure what the thread pitch is, but holmes hobbies has 6mmx16mm nipples designed for his 2.5mm (13guage spokes), which will fit in a MTB hub with out drilling out the holes. I want to clarify something about spoke nipple sizes, Can't say a 10g nipple as like its a specific size term. My spoke nipple stock is 6.4mmx18mm and I have them in both 8g and 10g sizes, and the outside dimensions of the nipples are identical in size. That would be like me saying that I use an 8g nipples drilled and threaded for 10g spokes. Gets confusing quick. Check this link out. http://www.buchananspokes.com/categories/nipples_stainless_steel.asp you can see here Buchanan offers 6 different sizes of nipples just in 10g spoke drills. The reason I am bringing all this up, is I when I first started lacing ebike hubmotors to MC rims, I made mistakes ordering spokes on two occasions and wasted close to 100 bucks each time. Wont ever make that mistake again.
kiwiev
100 kW
Hey Rix
Got the "Black Russian" going today I think Cowardly Duck is right the 24" berm master tires are a bit slippery lol. :lol:
Any ideas for a front tire?
The back 17" Moto tire was awesome I see what everyone means by how stable they are I was running 22psi do you think I should go lower?
Cheers Kiwi
Got the "Black Russian" going today I think Cowardly Duck is right the 24" berm master tires are a bit slippery lol. :lol:
Any ideas for a front tire?
The back 17" Moto tire was awesome I see what everyone means by how stable they are I was running 22psi do you think I should go lower?
Cheers Kiwi
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Rix
100 TW
kiwiev said:
The only other option of tire you can run, that would do your black Russian kick ass mean machine any justice is the duro leopardshttp://www.municycle.com.au/catalogue/UP-TYR-24-DURO3_item.html?ref_cat_id=Tyres This is the same tire as the Duro Razorbacks that come on Stealth Ebikes, however, the rubber compound is 47A instead of the Razorbacks 60A. The softer compound will actually stick better, and give your more traction, but not last as long. That said, I get about 1500 miles on the front with a Razorback, I am betting I would get around 1100 miles the Leopard on the front. CD tried these tires, if I recall, his rear wore fast but he liked them elsewise. The Leopard is the Halo Contra, literally identical so you might be able to get those from your local bike shop in Canberra. BTW, your bike looks fantastic!
Mammalian04
100 kW
Rix, you should YouTube your next build and call it Rixin' around with Rims....
...or Lacing Rim but the first one rhymes...
...or Lacing Rim but the first one rhymes...
Hyena
10 GW
Better than rimming with Rix!Mammalian04 said:
:lol:
Samd
10 MW
Cannot be unseen.
Rix
100 TW
You guys are killing me, 
:lol: I am half tempted to make a video about wheel builds, but then a true wheel smith like Voice Coils or JR Holmes would see my shit and wonder how it holds up.
:lol: I am half tempted to make a video about wheel builds, but then a true wheel smith like Voice Coils or JR Holmes would see my shit and wonder how it holds up.Scorefield
10 W
- Joined
- May 30, 2009
- Messages
- 78
Nice bike kiwiev and it looks like you have a great place to run your bike.kiwiev said:
What rims do you use in the front and back that you are showing in the pictures.?
I would love to see some ghetto wheel building, but I understand what you mean.Rix said:You guys are killing me,
Do you use 32H or 36H in your rear rim and are both of the rims from Pro-Wheel, 19x1.85 and 19x1.40 rim.?
Rix
100 TW
Scorefield
10 W
- Joined
- May 30, 2009
- Messages
- 78
Thanks for the info, I appreciate all the help.Rix said:
voicecoils
1 MW
Rix said:You guys are killing me,
That's part of the beauty of these 1-cross moped wheel builds: provided you get enough tension into the spokes they're quite strong and forgiving even if built without a pro truing stand and much prior experience.
I've seen badly built wheels hold up a surprisingly long time and well built wheels using bad components last beyond my expectation too.
Still, I'd rather have start with good parts, well built, well tensioned & stress relieved. It's a good feeling to have full confidence in your wheels. Often as DIY bike builders there's still plenty else to worry about in the rest of the bike
Rix
100 TW
By request, this is my advice on truing wheels utilizing high un-advanced and un-technical techniques. I will start this from the point after the rim is connected to the motor and spokes are in place. Using either screws like the top 2 pics, and or ball point pens with the rubber protector on the end of the roller 3rd pic, space them just far enough where the wobble is at max points just touching the rim sides. Start from the valve stem hole and as you carefully spin your wheel, when you see the rim move to one side, tighten the spokes on the opposite side. This will pull the rim towards the center. As you remove the wobble from the rim, move the screws, or ball point pens closer to the edge of the rim's sides and continue truing. Eventually you will have the rim straight and true between your points. So now as you check spoke tension, you guys will note that some spokes are much more loose then others. Carefully tension them up in 1/4 turn incriments and go around the wheel doing. When this is done, the wheel will come out of true just a tiny bit. So start pulling the rim back in place like before. Repeating this process will eventually give all your spokes good tension and the rim will be straight. Still not done though. After you get to this point, tighten every single spoke around the wheel 1/8th to 1/4 turn, and then loosen the spoke 1/16th turn. This will relax the twist tension at the spokes "L" bend on the hub flange keeping the tension pulling in a straight line from the flange to the hub. Check out the bottom pic. This was a rim I laced to a motor and didn't want to jack up my bike, pull the wheel off just to use the swing arm as a truing stand. So I got 2x4 block of wood and put a line on it with the motor axle clamped in my vice. Then as I rotated the wheel, I could see where the rim would rise and fall from the line. I did the exact same thing listed above and tightened the opposite side and pull the rim to the line. It worked okay. Funny thing is, I ended up selling that wheel build to a guy with specific instructions that he takes that rim to his LBS and have them true it up. He did and told me that the wheel smith said it wasn't that bad. :lol: I still wonder if the wheel smith was being nice or if it really was an okay lace job. This is how I have built wheels and its not the best way, Voice Coils and JRH are probably shitting the bed reading this , but none the less, I have had pretty good results. None of the wheels I have built have failed yet.
, but none the less, I have had pretty good results. None of the wheels I have built have failed yet.Attachments
voicecoils
1 MW
No laughing here. It's true, you can get away just with a few pencils and rubber bands like Rix showed.
Dedicated truing stands help speed things up and let you swap from one wheel to the next quickly but are not a requirement for the casual wheelbuilder. Unless you like expensive tools
Dedicated truing stands help speed things up and let you swap from one wheel to the next quickly but are not a requirement for the casual wheelbuilder. Unless you like expensive tools
John in CR
100 TW
voicecoils said:No laughing here. It's true, you can get away just with a few pencils and rubber bands like Rix showed.
Dedicated truing stands help speed things up and let you swap from one wheel to the next quickly but are not a requirement for the casual wheelbuilder. Unless you like expensive tools
Pencils and rubberbands is fancy stuff. The shop I go to for truing 200m from my house, the guy just grabs the swingarm with one hand and uses a thumbnail. For less than $2 I get a wheel trued by a pro.
Rix
100 TW
I have done that also. I do that all the time on my front when I check. :lol:
Rix
100 TW
voicecoils said:No laughing here. It's true, you can get away just with a few pencils and rubber bands like Rix showed.
Dedicated truing stands help speed things up and let you swap from one wheel to the next quickly but are not a requirement for the casual wheelbuilder. Unless you like expensive tools
You are so right, getting truing stand would actually speed things up. To date, I have laced and trued about 15 motors to MC rims for various people, I charge for the parts and shipping, but not my labor, which will change if I get asked to do lace another wheel lace. And that's a double edge sward for me. My wheels work and are pretty good, but the few times I paid a pro to lace wheels for me, I have noted less deviation in the roundness and I the wheel stays true better. For that reason, I when people ask me to lace up a wheel, I encourage them to contact a wheel smith. This may be a sign for me to get off my ass and learn how to build wheels the right way and with 1, 2, and 3 cross lace patterns. I will think on this.
Mammalian04
100 kW
The trouble seems to be finding a wheel smith that WANTS to do hub motor lacing to Moto wheels. Maybe I am barking up the wrong tree at bicycle shops and should look into scooter/dirt bike shops.
Rix
100 TW
Mammalian04 said:
One would think that if one pays for services rendered, then services provided. Apparently not the case. I haven't ran into this out west. I can tell you that the bike shops seriously wanting revenue could care less on what the wheel is for. Just pay the greens.
You'd think that...but here in Phoenix I can't walk into a motorcycle shop and buy tires or parts for wheels or stuff like that, cuz I'm not on the right kind of bike for any of them. :/ (most wont' even talk to me, much less sell me anything--not even things like LED lighting). I gave up quite a while back even trying to give them money.
Same thing with bicycle shops--I've only found a couple that are still around that will sell me stuff, if they see me ride up on one of my creations, or if I tell them what it's for. (even just telling some of them it's for a cargo bike they wont' deal with me, cuz it's not a "normal" bicycle". A few have actually been interested in my stuff, even fascinated; most of those aren't around anymore. (most of the others aren't either, though).
I don't understand why anyone would refuse to make money by selling parts to whoever needs them (and potentially eventually go out of business because of it), but apparently it's a common problem, and not just here in the valley.
Same thing with bicycle shops--I've only found a couple that are still around that will sell me stuff, if they see me ride up on one of my creations, or if I tell them what it's for. (even just telling some of them it's for a cargo bike they wont' deal with me, cuz it's not a "normal" bicycle". A few have actually been interested in my stuff, even fascinated; most of those aren't around anymore. (most of the others aren't either, though).
I don't understand why anyone would refuse to make money by selling parts to whoever needs them (and potentially eventually go out of business because of it), but apparently it's a common problem, and not just here in the valley.
Mammalian04
100 kW
I have a local shop here in town where I really like the lead mechanic. He is a good guy, very knowledgable, and has interest in tinkering. Unfortunately, the owner actually told me he doesn't want any more eBike work after I spent over $2000 with them (about half being labor). I think his cold reception is a combination of quirky personality and disdain for the "impure" cyclist. It is also possible that the extra time it takes to work on eBikes slows the shop down (even though labor is hourly). I probably shouldn't rule out the possibility that he just doesn't like me personally!
I will keep looking and let you guys know if there is a good shop in Texas that we can rely on for wheel builds. It would be nice not to have to ship a giant box every time I need a wheel laced up.
I will keep looking and let you guys know if there is a good shop in Texas that we can rely on for wheel builds. It would be nice not to have to ship a giant box every time I need a wheel laced up.
Rix
100 TW
amberwolf said:
Come think of it, I never have taken one of my Ebikes to the a bicycle shop. I just go there and buy parts like freewheels, bleed kits, chain lube, stuff like that. Even when I had my 26MTB front wheel laced to a 20mm hub, I didn't tell them it was for an ebike. I wonder if I told the shop what the stuff was for if they would quite doing business with me?
Let's hope not. :/
But it has happened to others.
@Mammalian04: Since you're in Austin, you might hit up Chalo. If I were there, that's who I'd want to build mine.
But it has happened to others.
@Mammalian04: Since you're in Austin, you might hit up Chalo. If I were there, that's who I'd want to build mine.
Rix
100 TW
amberwolf said:Let's hope not. :/
But it has happened to others.
.
I think I will just keep the Ebike thing to myself.
