19" Motorcycle Wheels vs 26" Bicycle Wheels (rim and tires)

[Offroader]

The tire eventually becomes like glued to the side of the tire, I need to force it off the side of the rim when changing tires. I run my rear at 10 PSI sometimes without issue. However, I don't ever get the rear tire wet and maybe that would break the seal. Like Rix said when he drove through some water or creek.

I prefer IRC tubes over the bike masters. They seem to hold air much longer. I also heard they are made in Japan while bike master is made in China, or they have better quality control. But the IRC definitely hold air longer without needing to add more air from the ones I purchased.

 

[BCTECH]

What inner tubes u using? try a better quality one.

IRC, bikemaster, Kenda, ... easily pinched and valve ripped
bridgestone seems double the price but most people telling me no different on higher quality tube or HD
can try the UHD next step
I also heard increase the PSI will help but I really like the low psi too much.

I went through similar. Gotta keep tire from rotating relative to rim. Some industrial rubber cement is lighter and easier to service than bead locks.

I am thinking also put a long bolt/pin through the tire and rim to stop the rotation but that's looks very ugly

 

[BCTECH]

The tire eventually becomes like glued to the side of the tire, I need to force it off the side of the rim when changing tires. I run my rear at 10 PSI sometimes without issue. However, I don't ever get the rear tire wet and maybe that would break the seal. Like Rix said when he drove through some water or creek.

I prefer IRC tubes over the bike masters. They seem to hold air much longer. I also heard they are made in Japan while bike master is made in China, or they have better quality control. But the IRC definitely hold air longer without needing to add more air from the ones I purchased.

I have tried a lot of tubes, actually some no brand made in China is not too bad, they are pretty much the same in under $15 range. I am not sure about how they hold up on pressure in long term but in term of durability, none last long for me. The irc tube is made in Thailand, bike master made in China, Kenda made in Taiwan. however IRC tires are made in Japan which I found best quality. IRC tubes also last a bit longer for me, I guess could be due to the pressure lost.
I wish I had that sealing effect,I ride a lot in raining days too. Maybe that broken the seal as you and Rix said.
sometimes I am thinking what if my tire already has holes/cracks that things can easily pinch through into the tube

 

[Rix]

The tire eventually becomes like glued to the side of the tire, I need to force it off the side of the rim when changing tires. I run my rear at 10 PSI sometimes without issue. However, I don't ever get the rear tire wet and maybe that would break the seal. Like Rix said when he drove through some water or creek.

I prefer IRC tubes over the bike masters. They seem to hold air much longer. I also heard they are made in Japan while bike master is made in China, or they have better quality control. But the IRC definitely hold air longer without needing to add more air from the ones I purchased.

Yah, repeated water crossings and low PSI are no bueno without a bead lock.

 

[atarijedi]

Got my Warp 9 rims in today, they are too heavy for my small scale, and to light for my big scale, haha.

21" x 1.85" front, 18" x 2.15 rear.

Has anyone else used an 18" rear with a QS 205 or Cromotor? Wondering what length spokes you use, I calculated mine to be 112mm left and 113mm right.

I can't seem to find that information on mounting the motor/rim in combination with the Qulbix frame, I remember reading something about a 2.6mm offset towards the freewheel side, so that the wheel was centred in the frame?

Anyways, does anyone here know what I'm talking about, the offset stuff? I'd like to be able to tell that to whomever I have lace and true the rear when I have it put together.

 

[amberwolf]

, the offset stuff?

dishing?

 

[atarijedi]

, the offset stuff?

dishing?

In the Qulbix video, they call it offset, said it was around 2mm. I don't recall exactly what it was called or where I read on it on here, definitely not called dishing in the motorcycle world, which is why I think Qulbix called it offset. I believe it is the radial centre-line of the hub in relation to the radial centre-line of the rim, offset left or right.

They reference a drawing on their website, which doesn't seem to exist anymore.

So I am assuming in this case, it would be 2mm right (freewheel side), so the centre-line of the hub is 2mm right-offset of the centerline of the hub.

 

[joe81]

what is the meaning of this nut anyway?

to sandwich the rim so that tube will not move and rip the valve

I thought they should be tight to keep the valve stays in position, I will try to loosing them to finger tight as many suggested see how it goes

[/quote]

 

[Merlin]

Got my Warp 9 rims in today, they are too heavy for my small scale, and to light for my big scale, haha.

21" x 1.85" front, 18" x 2.15 rear.

Has anyone else used an 18" rear with a QS 205 or Cromotor? Wondering what length spokes you use, I calculated mine to be 112mm left and 113mm right.

I can't seem to find that information on mounting the motor/rim in combination with the Qulbix frame, I remember reading something about a 2.6mm offset towards the freewheel side, so that the wheel was centred in the frame?

Anyways, does anyone here know what I'm talking about, the offset stuff? I'd like to be able to tell that to whomever I have lace and true the rear when I have it put together.

depends also from your swingarm "size"....if you have a 165mm theres no offset/dishing.
with a 150mm one i dont know but i think it is also depending if you go single speed or 3-5T freewheel.

spoke length is not the same for every rim. you have to calc the "ERD" for every different brand of the rim.

you can burn alot of money in finding your own "procedure" to measure the ERD + using a spoke calc

 

[Rix]

Got my Warp 9 rims in today, they are too heavy for my small scale, and to light for my big scale, haha.


Anyways, does anyone here know what I'm talking about, the offset stuff? I'd like to be able to tell that to whomever I have lace and true the rear when I have it put together.

depends also from your swingarm "size"....if you have a 165mm theres no offset/dishing.
with a 150mm one i dont know but i think it is also depending if you go single speed or 3-5T freewheel.

spoke length is not the same for every rim. you have to calc the "ERD" for every different brand of the rim.

you can burn alot of money in finding your own "procedure" to measure the ERD + using a spoke calc

This is so true, anyone need some 8g 98mm long spokes?

 

[Merlin]

no i have enough of them *LOL

atm iam lacing some sm pro wheels. its hard to measure the ERD with that mc rims because if you do it this way using 2 nipples on both side and measure from nipple to nipple it has differences how of 2mm how you place the nipple....
- fully seated in that angle where the holes are drilled or
- straight in on line to the other side of the rims nipple.

sure you can order 2mm shorter ones to be safe, but i dont like to see "threads" of the spoke out of the nipple or lets say to short spokes have not the full thread to withstand the force of braking or accelerating.

no problem with 8/9g spokes, as they are thick enough to compensate your lacing skills ...but 14/13g in a frontwheel on a 65kg bike in mc rims.....meeooowwwww....nope.....dont like it

 

[bigbore]

Anybody knows if Sun Rims Double Track 24" rims are welded?

 

[macribs]

@bigbore, I assume to ought to be?

 

[atarijedi]

Got my Warp 9 rims in today, they are too heavy for my small scale, and to light for my big scale, haha.

21" x 1.85" front, 18" x 2.15 rear.

Has anyone else used an 18" rear with a QS 205 or Cromotor? Wondering what length spokes you use, I calculated mine to be 112mm left and 113mm right.

I can't seem to find that information on mounting the motor/rim in combination with the Qulbix frame, I remember reading something about a 2.6mm offset towards the freewheel side, so that the wheel was centred in the frame?

Anyways, does anyone here know what I'm talking about, the offset stuff? I'd like to be able to tell that to whomever I have lace and true the rear when I have it put together.

depends also from your swingarm "size"....if you have a 165mm theres no offset/dishing.
with a 150mm one i dont know but i think it is also depending if you go single speed or 3-5T freewheel.

spoke length is not the same for every rim. you have to calc the "ERD" for every different brand of the rim.

you can burn alot of money in finding your own "procedure" to measure the ERD + using a spoke calc

I have a 165mm swing arm, so there won't be any offset?

Also, I personally measured the ERD on my rims, they are dimpled, so I just measured from the flat surface of the rim, using the eBikes spoke calc it came out to ~112mm. I'm taking it to a guy who professionally makes custom rims for motorcycles, so I'll have him check the size himself and make the spokes, with no offset.

 

[chucho]

Anyone knows who is making 19" MC front wheels now? Holmes and roadrash used to have them but they seem a bit out of bussiness :?

 

[Rix]

Anyone knows who is making 19" MC front wheels now? Holmes and roadrash used to have them but they seem a bit out of bussiness :?

http://www.prowheelracing.com/yamaha-play-bike-front-rim-1-40-x-19-black/

Here you go.

 

[fechter]

I thought my moped tires were pretty indestructible until yesterday:



It was a really big nail



Hopeless to fix in the field too, but due to the very stiff sidewalls, it was easy to walk the bike even with a big battery on the rear rack. I tried riding on it flat, and it would go but I was worried about damaging the side walls. I think I could ride on a flat front as there is a lot less weight on it. Murphy's Law at work.

 

[Rix]

I thought my moped tires were pretty indestructible until yesterday:


Hopeless to fix in the field too, but due to the very stiff sidewalls, it was easy to walk the bike even with a big battery on the rear rack. I tried riding on it flat, and it would go but I was worried about damaging the side walls. I think I could ride on a flat front as there is a lot less weight on it. Murphy's Law at work.

Nothing is indestructible Fetch, but MC/Moped tires are way more resistant to stuff like center punching a nail than bicycle tires are. I can't help to think, if running a NueTech Tubliss system, would a plug have fixed it?

 

[chucho]

Anyone knows who is making 19" MC front wheels now? Holmes and roadrash used to have them but they seem a bit out of bussiness :?

http://www.prowheelracing.com/yamaha-play-bike-front-rim-1-40-x-19-black/

Here you go.

Thank you,
I knew that web. But i am locking for front wheel already done... not just the rim :wink:

 

[Merlin]

i do that if you want.

but not cheap china crap. only high quality stuff. (Hope Hub 32h or 36h with 14/13 or 12g black spokes in that Rim you want.)

ill send you a pm.

 

[efMX Trials Electric Freeride]

LA ebike is also still doing moto bike wheel builds.. :
https://laebike.com/collections/front-bike-and-moto-wheels

Anyone knows who is making 19" MC front wheels now? Holmes and roadrash used to have them but they seem a bit out of bussiness :?

http://www.prowheelracing.com/yamaha-play-bike-front-rim-1-40-x-19-black/

Here you go.

Thank you,
I knew that web. But i am looking for front wheel already done... not just the rim :wink:

 

[macribs]

Hopeless to fix in the field too, but due to the very stiff sidewalls, it was easy to walk the bike even with a big battery on the rear rack. I tried riding on it flat, and it would go but I was worried about damaging the side walls. I think I could ride on a flat front as there is a lot less weight on it. Murphy's Law at work.

Good call not riding with a flat, putting strain on a flat tire easily destroys the sidewalls and you end up needing a new tire, rather then doing a repair.
Those "foam" cans can be a false sense of security, like you experienced. I've found from decades of riding mopeds, motocross, enduro, motorcycle and cars that your best friend in a flat tire situation is a plug. A plug for tubeless repair. I have yet to have a flat that I could not fix roadside or in the woods/mountains using those tubeless repairs. I have even ripped side walls between rocks and made it home with a combination of tubeless plugs, canned foam, gaffa tape and a few cans of compressed air. The thing that I noticed is that a flat with a tubeless setup means the leak will be much slower then with a tube. Why I don't know.

If you had gone tubeless with a flat like you had a tubeless plug would have replaced the nail you removed. If you have a hard time trusting those plugs you can always use plugs and flat repair foam cans.

 

[captain387]

I was driving a car which was used for highway construction work, mainly on the shoulders.

I believe I had 7 tire plugs installed by the end of the contract, non of them leaked.

 

[fechter]

I don't think it would be too easy to go tubeless in my size (16" moped/ 20" bicycle) x 2.75"

I'm tempted to try dragging a strong magnet behind my bike along there to see how much trash it picks up.

 

[macribs]

I don't think it would be too easy to go tubeless in my size (16" moped/ 20" bicycle) x 2.75"

I'm tempted to try dragging a strong magnet behind my bike along there to see how much trash it picks up.

You are running moped rim and bicycle tire if I understand correct?
What if you do a "ghetto style tubeless"? Find a smaller inner tube, like 14" tube. Important to go smaller, so the tube fits just barely to the rim, so that you need a little force and mild violence to get it around the the rim. Then using a sharp blade "gut" the tube in the middle all the way around, like you gut a fish. 1 cut in the middle all the way around where your centerline of the tube would touch the tire.

The pull the tube over the rim flanges all the way around on both sides of the rim. Carefully mount the tire. When wheel is inflated use your sharp blade and carefully remove excessive tube that hangs out from the tire. Congrats you are now riding tubeless. The gutted inner tube is making sure no air leaks via nipple holes. And you fill air like you would normally do. If you hit another nail, you are ready to use those tubeless repair plugs.

http://www.mtbtechniques.co.uk/MaintananceGhetto.html