19" Motorcycle Wheels vs 26" Bicycle Wheels (rim and tires)
- Thread starter GCinDC
- Start date
Rix
100 TW
joe81 said:Rix said:
looks very nice
what gauge are the spokes? did you have to use washers for the holes in the rim?
what about the angle from exiting the rim? the 19" should have quite an angle.
They are 13g spokes with 5mmx16mm custom spoke nipples. No washers. The angles are bad at all. This is a tough wheel.
Anyone here tell me where I can get large nipple washers? I have a set of Warp 9 rims, I have (I hope) correctly sized spokes, but the nipples are almost the same diameter as the holes on the rim. So if I tighten them down, some will slip through.
The hole diameter is like 8.5mm, the nipple shaft diameter is like 6mm. So I need a washer that is larger than 8.5mm, something like 10mm or more in diameter. With a 6mm diameter hole, or slightly larger.
Anyone have any ideas? I've seen lots of nipple washers around. Companies don't seem to post specs though, probably don't know them. I've emailed a few last week, got no responses though.
The hole diameter is like 8.5mm, the nipple shaft diameter is like 6mm. So I need a washer that is larger than 8.5mm, something like 10mm or more in diameter. With a 6mm diameter hole, or slightly larger.
Anyone have any ideas? I've seen lots of nipple washers around. Companies don't seem to post specs though, probably don't know them. I've emailed a few last week, got no responses though.
If you can't find washers specified for this you could try belleville washers
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belleville_washer
from mcmaster-carr or similar hardware sites.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belleville_washer
from mcmaster-carr or similar hardware sites.
I decided, I'm going to do massive weight reduction on my rear wheel build. I am going to drill and lighten my 17"x1.6 holmes hobby rim. Looking to reduce weight from 2.7 lbs to at least 2.2 lbs.
After delacing my cromotor to build a MXUS 3000 turbo, It is surprising how much lighter the MXUS feels. I will also be milling down the MXUS magnet ring to reduce weight by hopefully 2 lbs.
From my calculations, hoping to reduce weight by a whopping 9 lbs in the rear switching to the MXUS 3000 turbo.
After delacing my cromotor to build a MXUS 3000 turbo, It is surprising how much lighter the MXUS feels. I will also be milling down the MXUS magnet ring to reduce weight by hopefully 2 lbs.
From my calculations, hoping to reduce weight by a whopping 9 lbs in the rear switching to the MXUS 3000 turbo.
Rix
100 TW
Offroader said:
Thats what I am talking about, improving on OEM design. Keep us updated on your results.
parabellum
1 MW
Rix
100 TW
Try to get some stainless steel washers. I think it was GCnDC had posted a pic of his washers rusting to the rim a while back.
Hello All,
I have been searching this thread but couldn't find a definitive answer on a question I have regarding motorcycle rims and hubs. I am building a custom electric bicycle which has the following specs:
135mm dropouts on front and rear
21" (36h) motorcycle rims and 2.75" Shinko tires
Mid-Drive motor
Can anyone point me in the direction of FRONT and REAR hubs which would meet these specifications so I can use a mid-drive motor with motorcycle rims and tires that I have specified? I've purchased a couple front and rear hubs but its unlikely they will work with this setup. I saw front hubs over at laebike.com but they were 110mm, 32h and I need 135mm, 36h.
Thanks,
Barto256
I have been searching this thread but couldn't find a definitive answer on a question I have regarding motorcycle rims and hubs. I am building a custom electric bicycle which has the following specs:
135mm dropouts on front and rear
21" (36h) motorcycle rims and 2.75" Shinko tires
Mid-Drive motor
Can anyone point me in the direction of FRONT and REAR hubs which would meet these specifications so I can use a mid-drive motor with motorcycle rims and tires that I have specified? I've purchased a couple front and rear hubs but its unlikely they will work with this setup. I saw front hubs over at laebike.com but they were 110mm, 32h and I need 135mm, 36h.
Thanks,
Barto256
Rix
100 TW
barto256 said:
If your rear dropout is 135mm, any older generation rear wheel MTB hub will fit, It was 2009 or 2010 before 142mm became the standard we now see. As far as the front fork goes, you said you also have 135mm wide forks. Sounds like you got a fat tire front fork, most have 150mm wide forks though, so I would look at hubs designed for fat tire MTBs first.
..isn't it ridiculous that every three years there is a new "standard"!? just to victimize the consumer. nearly nothing between my four bikes is interchangeable...
I mean I understand there is a reasonable difference from a 10mm axle to a 20mm one.. but who needs the other diameters in between? same with dropout width, wheel diameters, headset, seat posts, brake mounts... just a slight change in dimension is made and then it's supposed to be a new development
I mean I understand there is a reasonable difference from a 10mm axle to a 20mm one.. but who needs the other diameters in between? same with dropout width, wheel diameters, headset, seat posts, brake mounts... just a slight change in dimension is made and then it's supposed to be a new development
999zip999
100 TW
Thank Shimano in the seventies they seem to change components every year with a component that doesn't match last year. Marketing.
Had a bad fall today on ice and mud at speed 
Ended with a pinch flat on my 17x3.0 dirt tyre which is on a 1.85" rim. I have now removed the tyre and inner tube and want to go with a wider tyre 17x3.5 to help bulk out rubber from the rim edge. Here's the tyre.... http://www.veerubber.co.uk/off-road/vrm308-trial/ but it says it is a tubless tyre, question is, can i still use it with an inner tube, i presume so??
Ended with a pinch flat on my 17x3.0 dirt tyre which is on a 1.85" rim. I have now removed the tyre and inner tube and want to go with a wider tyre 17x3.5 to help bulk out rubber from the rim edge. Here's the tyre.... http://www.veerubber.co.uk/off-road/vrm308-trial/ but it says it is a tubless tyre, question is, can i still use it with an inner tube, i presume so??litespeed
100 kW
You can but if I remember correctly they can just run a tiny bit hotter.
I'd really like to have a 3.5 tire on the rear of mine for a little extra width and heigth to balance my bike out. Looks like it would fit my Vector frame just fine.
Once you get it mounted up please add some measurements here so I can see exactly how much bigger it is.
Tom
I'd really like to have a 3.5 tire on the rear of mine for a little extra width and heigth to balance my bike out. Looks like it would fit my Vector frame just fine.
Once you get it mounted up please add some measurements here so I can see exactly how much bigger it is.
Tom
Anyone using a rim tyre lock for low pressure off road use? Taking into account the acceleration/torque and jumps my rear tyre goes through i have decided to try and fit one. Any tips? I will drill a small hole in rim opposite the valve hole. But will it make it much harde to fit the tube and tyre?
Rix
100 TW
brumbrum said:
Yah, any rim lock made for your respective rim width will work. So the key to mounting a tire when utilizing a rim lock is to keep pushing the rim lock upward into the tire as you spoon the tire around and onto the rim. Then while pushing the rim lock up ward, inflate tire to max pressure and make sure the bead seats evenly around the rim. After the bead is seated, tighten the rim lock down and you are good to go.
Rix said:
Excellent, very clear, thanks for the tips. Will let you know how it goes and try and get some pics up of the new tyre compared to old.
So inflate to max psi to seat the bead and then deflate to required psi.
Cheers
Rix
100 TW
brumbrum said:
Yes, and tighten down rim lock after and good to go. And I just want to point out, one will know very quickly if something isn't right. I was 12 years old when dad started making me change my own tires on my then brand new 1983 CR 80. I used to tighten the rim lock down before inflation. For the life of me, I could never get the bead to seat around the lock, and I rode that way. Dad never checked my work over so during a ride, he was behind me and noticed my tire wasn't tracking evenly, initially Dad thought I had bent the rim. But closer inspection, the bead wasn't evenly set around the rim. When we got home, Dad said to get some dish soap,wet the area of the bead that wasn't climbing up on the bead, and inflate until it does. I don't know what happened, but somewhere north of 80 PSI, I blew the tire during inflation. All I remember was it was loud and scared the crap right out of me and the tire had split almost in half. Anyway my dad watched me change a new tube and tire again, and when he saw me tightening up the rim lock before inflation, I got the dumbshit speech. :lol: I pass this knowledge on on what not to do. Let us know how it works out.
My vee rubber vrm308 trials tyre arrived today, its a lot bigger and fatter than my CST c186 tyre.
The chen shin cst tyre is 3.00x17" and the Vee rubber is 3.50x17" but the difference in size is bigger than expected...
The cst has a 23" diameter and the vee rubber is 25"
Before putting on the rim and inflating these are the width differences...
Cst c186
Vee rubber vrm308 trials tyre
Side by side...
I managed to wrestle the new tyre onto the rim tonight and it will fit within the nyx swingarm. I have managed to fit a tyre/rim lock which was fairly straight forward thanks to Rix's helpful tips.
Overalll its a lot heavier and larger than the cst tyre but i will be able to run it at a low pressure without worry of the rim hitting the ground and the tyre tread depth and knobbles look very decent.
I will try and get some photos of the bike when all finished in a day or two.
The chen shin cst tyre is 3.00x17" and the Vee rubber is 3.50x17" but the difference in size is bigger than expected...
The cst has a 23" diameter and the vee rubber is 25"
Before putting on the rim and inflating these are the width differences...
Cst c186
Vee rubber vrm308 trials tyre
Side by side...
I managed to wrestle the new tyre onto the rim tonight and it will fit within the nyx swingarm. I have managed to fit a tyre/rim lock which was fairly straight forward thanks to Rix's helpful tips.
Overalll its a lot heavier and larger than the cst tyre but i will be able to run it at a low pressure without worry of the rim hitting the ground and the tyre tread depth and knobbles look very decent.
I will try and get some photos of the bike when all finished in a day or two.
litespeed
100 kW
Is the rubber softer, harder or the same as the old tire?
Did you happen to weigh the tires before mounting?
Did you happen to weigh the tires before mounting?
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