19" Motorcycle Wheels vs 26" Bicycle Wheels (rim and tires)

Wanted to add that these MC tires rarely flat, but I did get two flats in the last month. I believe the reason is because the tire I have is getting really worn down, but not yet fully worn.

Surprisingly the duro razorback front tires I use have only had one flat or really a slow leak as I only noticed it the next morning, compared to the rear MC tires which had 3 flats so far. Those Duro Razorbacks are such great tires and it sucks they don't make them anymore. They last 1000's of miles on the front and still have knobs left on them.

The duro razorbacks on the front last as long as a Shinko 241 3" on the rear.
 
Offroader said:
Wanted to add that these MC tires rarely flat, but I did get two flats in the last month. I believe the reason is because the tire I have is getting really worn down, but not yet fully worn.

Surprisingly the duro razorback front tires I use have only had one flat or really a slow leak as I only noticed it the next morning, compared to the rear MC tires which had 3 flats so far. Those Duro Razorbacks are such great tires and it sucks they don't make them anymore. They last 1000's of miles on the front and still have knobs left on them.

The duro razorbacks on the front last as long as a Shinko 241 3" on the rear.

Thats true and applies to all Shinko SR241 on the rear and Duro Razorbacks on the front.
 
Offroader said:
I'm using the metal valve stem with the nut. It will hold somewhat but I think if you drive really fast like I did, 30-35MPH with really low PSI, under 5 PSI, you are going to rip the tube off.
I'm always under 20MPH, though my overall weight is probably higher (distributed over two rear tires, though).


That isn't a bad idea using two tubes, I just wouldn't personally do it because of the extra weight.
Compared to the tire weight, the tube is not very significant, at least for what I've got. :)

But I have tried two tubes before, on a regular bike, and the spare was not usable when the time came to need it, though I don't remember why anymore.
 
Situations like you experienced Offroader is where tubeless really shines. Plug the hole and air up using compressed air cartridges. No need to run home for miles with a flat risking to ruin the rim as well as the tire.
 
macribs said:
Situations like you experienced Offroader is where tubeless really shines. Plug the hole and air up using compressed air cartridges. No need to run home for miles with a flat risking to ruin the rim as well as the tire.

I can't go tubeless because of the low PSI I run and the kit they have to do it isn't available for 17" tires. I would have bought the kit if I had 18" or larger tires.
 
A front tire has much less probability of picking up a nail compared to the rear one because of how mechanics of getting a flat works and because of the weight distribution skew to the rear. Possibility of having your tires "nailed" grows with the weight and you tend to have more weight in the rear (especially in case with hub motors). Also, a front tire tends to roll over nails without incident because it is in the front and it is the first tire to roll over nails in their normal still and comparatively harmless position which would be lying flat on the ground. However, rolling over a nail on the ground with the front tire lifts the nail up from the ground for a split of a second to be immediately rolled over by the second (rear) tire. This process of a nail popping up after front tire rollover tends to place a nail under an angle that is hostile to the rear tire.

Offroader said:
Wanted to add that these MC tires rarely flat, but I did get two flats in the last month. I believe the reason is because the tire I have is getting really worn down, but not yet fully worn.

Surprisingly the duro razorback front tires I use have only had one flat or really a slow leak as I only noticed it the next morning, compared to the rear MC tires which had 3 flats so far. Those Duro Razorbacks are such great tires and it sucks they don't make them anymore. They last 1000's of miles on the front and still have knobs left on them.

The duro razorbacks on the front last as long as a Shinko 241 3" on the rear.
 
Okay got a new frame Diamondback Hard Rock sport 23 inch I have two and seven eighths inch clearance at 12 and a half inches from the axle on both upper and lower Vee. I guess I can always cut the crossbars and MIG welding I may be add another 10 millimeters or quarter inch with or so. But Rix told me to measure 12 and a half inches back from axle is this the top of the tire or the fattest part of an inflated Tire can I fit a 2. 25 inch tire in this Frame this will be on a 19 inch rim 1.4 millimeter ? What is the 12.5 inch measurement from axle on frame is that the top of the tire or the fattest part. All help is appreciate it
 
999zip999 said:
Okay got a new frame Diamondback Hard Rock sport 23 inch I have two and seven eighths inch clearance at 12 and a half inches from the axle on both upper and lower Vee. I guess I can always cut the crossbars and MIG welding I may be add another 10 millimeters or quarter inch with or so. But Rix told me to measure 12 and a half inches back from axle is this the top of the tire or the fattest part of an inflated Tire can I fit a 2. 25 inch tire in this Frame this will be on a 19 inch rim 1.4 millimeter ? What is the 12.5 inch measurement from axle on frame is that the top of the tire or the fattest part. All help is appreciate it

Radius measurement value. I figured it I over estimated your clearance needs by having you go 12.5" inward for clearance as the chain and seat stays get narrower towards the seat post and bottom bracket, then you would some margin for error. Then when your wheel mounted up and had clearance and it worked, you would thing I was a smart guy that knew my shit. Technically, you are right on the money, a 23" tire has a radius of 11.5" and then the widest part of that tire may be at 11" I didn't want you measuring there because there is no margin of error. But I went conservative with your measurement so the margin of error was larger. I hope you get what I am saying.
 
I pulled the tire tube in the tire and had a small puncture. The reason for the flat was the puncture and then I ripped the valve valve off by riding on it.

I most likely ripped the valve because when I had the flat I was riding as high as 40MPH, I figured maybe it was a slow leak and I wanted to cover as much distance as possible, and even did wheelies (some kids on bikes begging me) with the flat tire. I was able to ride a few miles before the valve ripped and the tire then got really soft.

The puncture was big enough where I would have lost most air quickly, so I should have just drove it slowly back home and I may not have ripped the valve. I think what I should have done is pushed the valve up into the tire as soon as I noticed the flat tire.

What sucked about all this was I was the furthest from my home, all the way up at central park, this is the furthest I ever go with my bike.
 
Wanted to add that I put in a new tube and the tire/rim still seems perfect, not even marks on the tire. Which is surprising because I drove on it for a very long time.

This is unlike in a car where I once drove only two blocks with a flat once, not totally flat also, and the whole inner side wall of the tire was completely damaged. Surprisingly the tire still worked and I kept it but it didn't look very good.
 
parabellum said:
Offroader said:
When tire was mostly deflated but not fully I drove too fast and finally ripped the valve off the tube which made it completely flat for the 9 miles
Rim lock is good to prevent tire spinning on the wheel and ripping valves of the tube. :D

To be honest, I don't think this is necessary for an ebike. I run as low as 10PSI on my tire and the bike lacks the power to ever spin on the rim. The only time that happened was when I had a complete flat and rode on it for a long time.

If I got a flat the rim lock wouldn't work.
 
Rix secerts oh my. You told me 12.5 inches now 11.5 inches (wow lover ) ?
Ok so be it, now I have three big inches to work with. So I guess a 2.25 will fit ? I rather have a 2.25 tire than a 2.0. Somebody tell me to order the. Vee rubber VRM 013 moped tire - 19 x 2.25 or heidenau M3 moped tire - 19 x 2.25. So does mean the widest part of the inflated Tire is 2.25 inches.
I'm thinking german quality.
 
999zip999 said:
Rix secerts oh my. You told me 12.5 inches now 11.5 inches (wow lover ) ?
Ok so be it, now I have three big inches to work with. So I guess a 2.25 will fit ? I rather have a 2.25 tire than a 2.0. Somebody tell me to order the. Vee rubber VRM 013 moped tire - 19 x 2.25 or heidenau M3 moped tire - 19 x 2.25. So does mean the widest part of the inflated Tire is 2.25 inches.
I'm thinking german quality.

I learned the lesson the hard way, awhile back, like 3 years or so, I gave some advise to a guy going to a MC wheel conversion. And I gave him exact measurements. Well the tire rubbed on the swingarm as he could not find a 1mm wide washer with an oval 10mmx14mm slot to center the motor, and the tire he was running I had not ran so didn't have any personally observed measurements. Not a big deal as most of us can easily solve this type of issue. Anyway he was motherfuqn me telling me how he trusted my judgement and all that and felt let down. I took that to heart, so now when I comment or if anyone asks me for advise, I provide it with some margin of error. You asked
the widest part of the inflated Tire is 2.25 inches.
answer is yes.
 
I got you you not into commitments. Just a lot better tires in 2.25 than 2.0. II'm looking at the cross bar it looks like I cut and some space there upper and lower ???
 
999zip999 said:
I got you you not into commitments. Just a lot better tires in 2.25 than 2.0. II'm looking at the cross bar it looks like I cut and some space there upper and lower ???

Have you considered a tread cutting iron like the knobby knife? This will allow you to trim the sides and get the clearance you need. I once modded a 3.5MC trials tire by chopping the sides to make it fit on my Bomber. Never posted it as the tire was heavy and sucked current out of my battery. Took like 2 hours and I ended up trashing it after the test ride.
 

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999zip999 said:
I still want to if anybody has cut the frame at the 2.5 in.5 crossbar just back from the down post or seat post? ??

I can't answer that, but I bet Farfle could.
 
If I do that it would get in the way of the Big Chain 52t ( would like 56t) (nut's) ring always change one thing always changing two or the third the unexpected. 11t rear. Plus that hardrock 23in. Is a giraffe. My giant upland xl is smaller. Do ypu know of an older colmoy frame that's. Wide for 19in 2.75in tire. Old bike. Looking. And for cheap. Or cheaper.
 
999zip999 said:
If I do that it would get in the way of the Big Chain 52t ( would like 56t) (nut's) ring always change one thing always changing two or the third the unexpected. 11t rear. Plus that hardrock 23in. Is a giraffe. My giant upland xl is smaller. Do ypu know of an older colmoy frame that's. Wide for 19in 2.75in tire. Old bike. Looking. And for cheap. Or cheaper.

Yes I do, its called the Surely Instigator, and it would be perfect for what you want to do, problem is, Surely quite making that frame, but I have found a few over the years on Ebay. They are no doubt the toughest MTB Hardtail cromo frame made.
 
Offroader said:
Have any of you had to dish a rear motorcycle wheel? Any issues with doing this?

how much dish are you asking about? some have dished about 3mm or so with no issues.
 
Hey guys, I'm trying a 18" setup for our bikes,
What width Shinko SR241 would you reccomend for a 2.15 rim?
LMX%20wide%20tire%202.jpg

LMX%20wide%20tire.jpg

Thanks!
Adam
 
18" is great because you can go from a 2.75" to a 4" tire. I'd go with a 3.5 or 4" tire for floatation not to mention how great some bikes look with fatter tires.

My thoughts anyway.

Tom
 
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