I am thinking about doing the same, but I ride almost exclusively on the road. No risk of debris. I heard this is also a good way to let water out? It water proofs it?Have you had any problems with overheating up until now, or are you just inviting debris into your motor for funsies?
The road is full of debris- hell, depending on how much rubber particle and brake dust there is in your city, its possibly worse than what dust you'd see in farm country because it sticks.I am thinking about doing the same, but I ride almost exclusively on the road. No risk of debris. I heard this is also a good way to let water out? It water proofs it?
It will let *humidity* out, but not liquid water (any that is below the holes will just sit in there until it evaporates, but it can't directly drain unless lay the bike on it's side with the holes down).I heard this is also a good way to let water out? It water proofs it?
Um, the worst debris you can feed to your hub is steel fragments. Those you will find on roads frequented by automobiles.I am thinking about doing the same, but I ride almost exclusively on the road. No risk of debris.
allright the FF from G. YEah I've just been limiting the wattage on the bike and going slow in 110 F. Riding it like a regular bicycle, boring, but whatever. I'll definitly see about that fluid. I also need to water proof my motor while I am opening it up to inject the fluid.Among the many other things I've tried and would never do again, that's one of them. While I don't think the holes did any damage, I'm not too sure it helped much with cooling. I do think it helped with water in the motor as everytime I heated the motor up it would boil out what had accumulated inside. If I was worried about cooling today I would buy some ferrofluid from Grin.
I gotta get a solution. What about spraying stators with that red laquor stuff?Totally waterproofing a motor is hard to do. Other than keeping the FF oil from leaking out, I don't bother anymore.
That's a scary thought, after seeing how strong the magnets are, and the very limited clearance between the stator and magnets.Um, the worst debris you can feed to your hub is steel fragments. Those you will find on roads frequented by automobiles.
My low tech temporary solution is to limit the current (i.e. lowest level of pedal assist) to help keep the motor from over heating. That f*ucker gets hot in 114 going up big ass hills! I don't think DD motors are designed for big hills and I read somewhere they will overheat no matter what if you are abusing them like I do. Good thing it seems like they can take some abuse(full throttle all the way).That's a scary thought, after seeing how strong the magnets are, and the very limited clearance between the stator and magnets.
I've found that Statorade and a temp sensor (and rollback as a safeguard) are a pretty good combo for controlling the temps on a DD motor for moderate to steep climbs. I've been doing temp testing on my motor for about a year now, using Statorade alone, ahead of my next upgrade of adding some low profile heat sinks. I'll be testing for the improvement afterwards. I'm not expecting much, but there's been lots of times that I wish I could make it another 50 yards without feathering the throttle to let the motor cool.My low tech temporary solution is to limit the current (i.e. lowest level of pedal assist) to help keep the motor from over heating. That f*ucker gets hot in 114 going up big ass hills! I don't think DD motors are designed for big hills and I read somewhere they will overheat no matter what if you are abusing them like I do. Good thing it seems like they can take some abuse(full throttle all the way).
Nope, just facilitates heat transfer from the stator to the case, where air can provide cooling. In my older motor, I drilled and tapped a hole in the side cover to inject it, and didn't have a temp sensor. On my current motor, I opened the case, added a temp sensor, and applied the Statorade directly to the magnets. I'm sure either method works just as well. but applying it to the magnets is pretty cool to see.I believe you. Statorade: Check. I am guessing it's not a PITA to get it in there? I can skip the temp sensor right?
Hold on, will the statorade also help protect from water?
I think I need to crack open the motor and see what all the water and snow did to it... It was a very rainy season here this year....
One of my motors just started having problems. It will suddenly spin in reverse. I'm gonna take it apart, see what's going on inside the motor. Pretty sure its a severed wire shorted halls.I'll install a temp sensor, and statoradeNope, just facilitates heat transfer from the stator to the case, where air can provide cooling. In my older motor, I drilled and tapped a hole in the side cover to inject it, and didn't have a temp sensor. On my current motor, I opened the case, added a temp sensor, and applied the Statorade directly to the magnets. I'm sure either method works just as well. but applying it to the magnets is pretty cool to see.
Going forward, I won't own a motor without both Statorade and a temp sensor. I want to know what's going on. Same with cars. I'd rather have gauges to see what's happening than idiot lights that tell me afterwards what happened.
It will die in stages. I think halls, magnets, windings (someone can correct/confirm).One of my motors just started having problems. It will suddenly spin in reverse. I'm gonna take it apart, see what's going on inside the motor. Pretty sure its a severed wire shorted halls.I'll install a temp sensor, and statorade
Without having any specs for the motor (Chinese brand) what can I expect as the max temp of the motor?
Never heard of this, interesting.Golden Motor started to add a Heat Exhaust Fan in the Axle
which I tried and it worked fine right up till it ripped my front forks apart.