2005 Kona Stinky GNG 1.0 build (mid-drive Stink-E) ABANDONED

zaphod911 said:
skyungjae said:
I've ironed out all the issues regarding the front derailleur. I only needed to adjust the outer position screw just a tad bit to bring the derailleur in toward the bike. Since then, it's been worry free, and I actually use my front derailleur more than my rear while commuting. When I'm on flats or going downhill, I'll use the 48T ring. When there's a slight incline, I'll drop it down to 32T. On the trail, I'm usually in the 32T ring the whole time.

Don't misunderstand me... There are countless benefits from running gears through the front chainring. I just personally find a clean, straight chain line more appealing.

Sorry if I came off trying to convince you otherwise. When I had the e*thirteen front chain guide up front and my 34T Blackspire single chain ring, it certainly was a more robust, reliable off road set up. It definitely had it's advantages even on pavement. I'm sure an internal geared rear hub would have been fantastic as well. Having a clean, straight chain line would be awesome. I'm looking forward to your build.
 
I finally ordered a new battery. Instead of going the Turnigy Nanotech 8000 LiPo route, I decided it would be in my best interest to pick up a pre-made Li-Ion due to my use of public transportation and storage in a government building.

The battery I picked up was a 48V 20Ah Aluminum cased battery from ConhisMotor:

http://www.conhismotor.com/ProductShow.asp?id=343

It came out to about $580 shipped to California. This battery should be able to handle whatever I can throw at it in terms of power and distance with my current set up.

It's actually very comparable in size to my dying (puffed) 8.4Ah Hobby King LiFePO4 set up.
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I don't know if they were doing me a favor, but they did provide me with a 5A charger. It was a pleasant surprise, because I was preparing myself for those 10 hour charge times.
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Everything is all set to go.
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Unfortunately time is scarce, so I haven't been able to charge and test this set up. With my newborn and time off work, I don't even have commuting as an excuse to test this thing out.

Anyhow, I haven't decided if I want to do a full reset on my Cycle Analyst, or simply continue using it and subtract the charge cycles, Ah uses, and total mileage. On one hand, I'd like to start with fresh stats for the new battery. On the other hand, I like the odometer aspect keeping track of the miles on the bike and original belt. I suppose I could just add the current figures to the reset figures. It does make more sense since I ride human powered from time to time not logging miles. Eh... when time permits.
 
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I consider the above photo the life and death of my Hobby King LiFePO4 batteries. I've used them since the end of January 2013, most recently September 17, 2013. My OEM GNG belt is running strong, and I'll continue to keep track of the total mileage on it before it breaks or skips to no end.

Late last night I decided to do some testing. No substantial trail riding since it was 1:00 AM and didn't have any friends around in case of an accident. Riding around in the neighborhood proved a lot more fun than my old set up. The resting voltage at full charge is much higher and the battery packs a much bigger punch. All that aside, I must say, it's rather nice being able to full throttle without seeing the voltage drop like anvil out of a plane. :D

Though the battery is heavier, but it fits my CamelBak better than my DIY pack.
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Since the battery always stays with me, the key is pointless. I don't want to fiddle with the locking mechanism or ever lose the key, so I tethered it to the battery handle using a free lanyard from a car show. :lol:
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I'll try to get some more real world data on this battery as well as some climbing footage. I just wish my phone wouldn't random reboot and kill Strava while I'm riding. :cry:
 
General Update:

I've been able to do a few rides with the new battery. I certainly wish I had gone this route from the get go.

Here's just a sample:
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I was able to get about 30 good miles on this battery using up about 15Ah. Keeping the wattage low, I'm pretty sure I could go much further with 15Ah. Once the government shutdown is over, I'll try riding from Los Angeles to Orange County. It's about 25 miles, and I'd like to beat my train time.

On another note, my belt finally stripped a bunch of teeth on today's run. It was an 18 mile ride including the Strava segments pictured above. Going up a very steep sandy incline, not on the trail (going around pedal riders), the belt couldn't take it anymore.
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I was able to get 728 miles out of this belt. I don't think that's a miraculous feat since it seems that most people destroy the belt with hard starts and/or running higher than stock power. I am peaking at 35A which is significantly higher than the 22A stock power, but it's held up fine until I put it through terrain a normal bike just wouldn't be able to ride up.

Also, I decided to ditch my Bionicon C. Guide. It would cause hang ups with the chain and chainrings completely locking up the drivetrain at times. This would only happen when the line wasn't straight.

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I forgot to mention that the when the chain does get caught up, it usually breaks the swinger. If my chain decides to fall off on every bump, stairs, jumps, etc... then I'll probably put it back on.

Well, it's a work in progress. The Cyclone chainring isn't a bullet proof set up, but it makes for more efficient commuting.
 
Are you happy with those pedals?
 
I like those too. One thing I forgot to mention was that I did lose two pins that were sharing the same silver post, and the entire post disappeared. That's why I have a 3rd set for parts.
 
November Update:

Ever since putting my build together and going through a California rainy season (like two weeks of rain total), I've always wanted to move the wire bundle from under my downtube to... any where else really. I really couldn't think of a way to conceal the wires without making the bike less stealth. Though the wires and controller were ziptied to the bottom of the downtube, people just saw right through the frame.

Anyhow, the first thing I did was move all the electronics into the frame triangle:
k95ecwlFmzam8jIDDrLokUgQJbiqdFcST5spZ6Zu-mY=w958-h599-no

Though the controller was going to get less air flow, it seems like people pushing similar Chinese controllers with higher amps for longer duration are fine with their controllers in their battery bags.

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The next part was designing some side panels. My artist friend helped me with this process where we used some cardboard before making the actual ones out of plastic sheets.

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We used a Dremel (rotary tool) and a cutting wheel/disc to cut the shape. Aluminum dowels were used to secure them together through the frame.

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It ended up looking pretty good in pictures, but not in actual function.

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During my first night ride, my pant leg got caught on one of the edges and snapped it off. Afterward, I thought it would be a good idea to get rid of any snag points. :?

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I ended up trimming the top down a bit and angled off the corners, but I still felt sort of bothered by the sharp points at the bottom...

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... so I cut off those pointy ends as well. :wink:

So far, it hasn't gathered any more attention on the trail or on the train. The only difference is people with questions assume the battery is inside the frame triangle. Well, it's not really different since people would assume the controller hanging off the downtube was the battery. :lol:

Also, not all belts are created equal. The belt I used to replace the Gates PowerGrip with was some $11 eBay belt that failed after 150 miles. I did abuse it much more, and the rain may have contributed to the snapping of the belt. Hopefully the six Chinese made spares I got from hillyterrain last a bit longer. They just need to last long enough for me to do LightningRod's wider belt upgrade. :twisted:
 
scorpionice said:
How's your new battery doing? Planning to buy batteries for this kind of setup, would you recommend your new one?

I've been loving this battery. I've been charging it, worry free, about every other week, and I get about 60 miles per charge whilst pedaling. I'm not sure how it would handle these hills around where I live without any pedal input. I pedal mostly to reduce wear on my primary belt drive.

Anyhow, it's definitely the way to go if you want a more worry free, plug and play set up. The only downside is the weight and shape. I redid the wiring on my friend's 10Ah aluminum cased LiFe battery pack (it's like about 3/4 the thickness of my pack), and you can seriously feel the weight difference.

If you're looking to run custom voltages and use up your frame triangle space, it's hard not to go with RC batteries especially if you already have an RC charging setup for other hobbies. You just have to deal with all the cell monitoring (charging and discharging).

Pros and cons to each clearly. Simply based on convenience, I don't see myself going back to RC any time soon.
 
Read through all 6 pages; thanks for all the continued trouble shooting. I have the chain reduction motor sitting on the desk now & am about to order lipo from HobbyKing; praying GNG has updated the BB/Cranks/Arms that have given GEN1 builders.
 
Haohmaru said:
Read through all 6 pages; thanks for all the continued trouble shooting. I have the chain reduction motor sitting on the desk now & am about to order lipo from HobbyKing; praying GNG has updated the BB/Cranks/Arms that have given GEN1 builders.

I'm fairly certain they haven't, but it is easily replaceable/upgradeable if you end up bending the spindle.
 
Great proyect thank you for sharing
 
I read this whole thread and learned alot. I am very new to this and think your bike is beautiful. Great job bro. Thanks to other contributors of this thread who I got info from to.
 
scorpionice said:
anymore battery sample rides? thanks :D

Sorry about not keeping up regarding the battery status. I was going to include some stuff on a mega update post to come.

If you plan on sticking with the stock controller, either of these batteries are going to be fine. The only issue is weight vs capacity.

The stock GNG controller shunt will only allow the motor to draw ~22A from the battery. This is fine. The 10Ah LiFePO4 battery is rated for 15A continuous, so it's probably not a good idea to run the set up at full throttle for extended periods of time.

The 20Ah Li-Ion battery is rated for 30A continuous and 40A peak; however, as stated before, it weighs quite a bit more and is thicker.

I think the 20Ah battery is the way to go. You're going to charge it half as much, and you're going to run it harder. Also, all the high discharge batteries that are comparable all weigh the same. BMS Battery has a high discharge rate 10Ah LiFePO4 & 15Ah Li-Ion, but they both weigh as much and are similar in dimension.

Here are the links below for reference:

http://www.bmsbattery.com/48v/623-48v-15ah-lithium-ion-alloy-shell-ebike-battery-pack.html
http://www.bmsbattery.com/48v/609-48v-15ah-lithium-ion-alloy-shell-ebike-battery-pack.html
http://www.conhismotor.com/ProductShow.asp?id=343

P.S. I modified my shunt by adding a modified T-50 staple, so my controller will allow my motor to suck down 37A from my battery. While I was riding with the 10Ah battery, it just went dead on me. I found that I had blown the 25A fuse. :(
 
Well, a lot has happened since I've embarked on this GNG journey over a year ago. :D

I've gotten a few friends to join the GNG club:
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Two other GNG 1.1's w/ Cyclone ISIS Bottom Bracket/Cranksets are yet to be put together.

Cyclone has changed their ISIS bottom brackets over the past year. Initially, they had a 140mm spindle in a 73mm housing which I'm using on my bike as well as the Kona Howler pictured above.

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The newer 148mm w/ 73mm shell is much beefier and smoother. I think it has an extra row of the sealed bearings.

Anyhow, onto more bike related updates. When I had purchased the bike, I was told it was a medium, yet it had a 450lbs rear spring. I thought it was kind of weird since the Kona Stinky of this year was supposed to have a 500lbs rear spring for the medium size. Eventually, I measured the top tube, and it turns out that it is a small. It's not all that big of a deal, but me + pack w/ battery in it = 220lbs. That's way too much weight for that 450lbs spring, and I could bottom it out on the progressive frame mount setting by just pumping the suspension for a bunny hop. :?

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This 600lbs spring was long over due. I wish I had changed it out much earlier, but I was just afraid to tinker with it. I'm definitely more confident bombing down stairs and doing bigger jumps/drops with this spring. :twisted:

What my bike needed more than a heavier rear spring was a fork oil change. Ever since I purchased my bike, I knew the fork was overdue for some fresh oil. It took me a year of owning it and doing all sorts of other bike related maintenance to finally rebuild it.

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It was good thing I decided to rebuild the fork myself. Aside from the oil desperately needing changing, I found out that one of the previous owners of the bike had assembled the fork incorrectly. The area where the lower crown was clamped was on the thinner upper portion of the sanction and wasn't really clamping onto anything. My upper crown was taking all the force. Also, the headtube angle was more slack.

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The bike really does feel more like a small now, but the fork feels amazing with this 10wt Motul oil. Another one of those things I wish I had done sooner as the bike just feels so much better over any terrain or anything I throw at it.

Now that all the bike stuff was taken care of, I thought I'd send GNG Jon an email regarding those sealed Jackshafts on the GNG 1.1 for a friend. One thing led to another then led to this:

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All GNG Jon had sent me was the sealed jackshaft. That alone wasn't enough to complete my install, but I did make note that I needed the proprietary lock rings. I asked to borrow one of my friend's uninstalled GNG 1.1 motors, so I could use their sealed jackshaft lock rings and shaft keys while waiting for mine to come. Due to Lunar New Year, Jon isn't able to send out the lock rings just yet.

After laboring away with only hand tools wishing I had an air compressor, I noticed a lot of differences. One was that the shaft keys are different from the GNG 1.0 and 1.1. Another difference I noticed is the jackshaft housing was also different:

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I was afraid the lock rings wouldn't work, but they did. :)

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I ended up not using the newer Cyclone ISIS Bottom Bracket. The shaft on my 140mm/73mm ISIS bottom bracket is easier to adjust the spindle position for the chainline from motor to chainring. It's also narrower, so I figure that'd make up for the lack of beefiness.

Installation of the adjustable sheets was pretty straight forward. The difficult part was taking the old stuff off and doing the final adjustments to the tension. :|

It's really important to note that the primary pulley freewheel does have some play as it is a freewheel. Putting too much tension on the belt will cause it not to rotate true, and the belt will want to walk off the large pulley.

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Anyhow, after reducing the tension and fiddling with the alignment I was able to get everything just right.

If LightningRods does end up making a freewheel delete, I may go back to using a freewheel on the secondary side. The play in freewheels cause them to have tight spots, so finding the right amount of tension was more difficult than proper alignment. It's not a big deal though since everything is working as designed. :wink:

For the most part, I'm done with this project. :)

P.S.

There are a handful of things that still bother me about my build, but it's all battery related as in my previous post.

In the end, I think the GNG still reigns king of the cheap mid-drive kits for heavy off road use. What I mean by heavy is rough terrain and bigger jumps. Unfortunately, there are two weak links from the factory. It's debatable which one is the weaker of the two since it's more subjective to the rider. Plenty of people don't have problems with the belt drive or with the weak bottom bracket spindle. I'm one of those people who had only gone through two belts on my GNG 1.0 set up with my first belt surviving over 700 miles of riding. On the other hand, I was able to bend my bottom bracket spindle on my second real trail ride. For what ever type of rider you are, there are great options out there now that have addressed these weaknesses:

There are three places, I know of, that have ISIS bottom bracket / chainring set ups available that work for this system from the get go:

Cyclone Taiwan (Paco)
http://www.cyclone-tw.com/order-chainwheel.htm
Sick Bike Parts
http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalo...ucts_id=190&osCsid=t9n1ophk7uqf2nq81pg8rhu9g2
http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalo...ucts_id=192&osCsid=t9n1ophk7uqf2nq81pg8rhu9g2
LightningRods
http://www.backusstudio.com/gng/
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=30024

The chainring set ups are a bit more complicated. I'm not sure if anyone has used an ISIS BB/Crank arms with the stock GNG chainring set up yet. I don't think it would be that difficult so long as you pop out that support bearing. There is a lot of debate in other threads regarding the necessity of the support bearing, but I'm not going to get into too much detail. I've put on over 1000 miles on my White Industries ENO freewheel without a support bearing, and it's held up even though it has only one row of bearings. The ACS style 10 hole flanged freewheel is probably the better option for most users. All the vendors/developers I've mentioned above carry them. It also helps that it's much cheaper than the White Industries freewheel.

As for the belt issue... personally, I don't think there is a problem with GNG's belt design aside from people saying it robs power. Belt longevity is really determined by how abrupt power is put through the system. Regardless, LightningRods has developed a wider belt option that replaces that dinky 15mm pulley with a beefy 25mm one. Of course, it's designed around his adjustable sheets.

There's also GNG's own primary chain drive as an alternative to the belt. This is probably a great option for those who don't care a whole bunch about noise. There are fixes for that, but I'm not going to go there since there is a thread dedicated to that particular kit.

Another future option will be LightningRods' complete kits which will use the 25mm belt from the get go as well as the beefier 148mm ISIS BB/Cranks.

Well, that's pretty much it. :mrgreen:

If you have any questions, feel free to PM me.
 
A couple of questions for you.

Do your Stink-E brakes drag? Mine do, seems to be a common thing, I think they're robbing some of my power.

Then, what A/Km are you using? I'm averaging nearly an amp a km now whereas on my previous bike I was getting 1/2 an amp per km. Could be I'm using more power and that it certainly likely as the Kona inspires me to ride harder. Could also be losses in the drive train, I'm running with 2 chain guides now (top and bottom) and that's likely be accounting for some. The tyres are now 2.5's instead of 1.95's on the previous bike so there's a little more, and the dragging brakes...

I even made up side covers with KONA STINK-E stickers on the side :)
 
t0me said:
A couple of questions for you.

Do your Stink-E brakes drag? Mine do, seems to be a common thing, I think they're robbing some of my power.

Then, what A/Km are you using? I'm averaging nearly an amp a km now whereas on my previous bike I was getting 1/2 an amp per km. Could be I'm using more power and that it certainly likely as the Kona inspires me to ride harder. Could also be losses in the drive train, I'm running with 2 chain guides now (top and bottom) and that's likely be accounting for some. The tyres are now 2.5's instead of 1.95's on the previous bike so there's a little more, and the dragging brakes...

I even made up side covers with KONA STINK-E stickers on the side :)

The disc brakes on all of my bikes drag. None of the wheels on my bikes are true, and I stopped wasting my time trying to keep them true. As soon as I hit up a rough trail or do a couple of jumps, my once smooth spinning wheel starts to wobble which causes my brake drag.

It's a bit difficult to determine how much power I'm consuming since I'm always riding on variable terrain along with different levels of pedal effort. Also, though I use this bike for commuting, its number one purpose is off road use. I'm sure if I put on some fast rolling skinnier tires, I could go faster and further. All that aside, going to the train station is approximately 2 miles, I consume about 1/2 an Ah, but it's mostly downhill. Coming back from the train station, I can consume 2Ah easy hammering it up those hills.

Does anyone want to buy me a Cycle Analoger? I promise more accurate usage stats. :lol:
 
skyungjae said:
t0me said:
A couple of questions for you.

Do your Stink-E brakes drag? Mine do, seems to be a common thing, I think they're robbing some of my power.

Then, what A/Km are you using? I'm averaging nearly an amp a km now whereas on my previous bike I was getting 1/2 an amp per km. Could be I'm using more power and that it certainly likely as the Kona inspires me to ride harder. Could also be losses in the drive train, I'm running with 2 chain guides now (top and bottom) and that's likely be accounting for some. The tyres are now 2.5's instead of 1.95's on the previous bike so there's a little more, and the dragging brakes...

I even made up side covers with KONA STINK-E stickers on the side :)

The disc brakes on all of my bikes drag. None of the wheels on my bikes are true, and I stopped wasting my time trying to keep them true. As soon as I hit up a rough trail or do a couple of jumps, my once smooth spinning wheel starts to wobble which causes my brake drag.

It's a bit difficult to determine how much power I'm consuming since I'm always riding on variable terrain along with different levels of pedal effort. Also, though I use this bike for commuting, its number one purpose is off road use. I'm sure if I put on some fast rolling skinnier tires, I could go faster and further. All that aside, going to the train station is approximately 2 miles, I consume about 1/2 an Ah, but it's mostly downhill. Coming back from the train station, I can consume 2Ah easy hammering it up those hills.

Does anyone want to buy me a Cycle Analoger? I promise more accurate usage stats. :lol:

I changed out my Kenda tires like you have for some smooth Maxis Hookworms and I gained almost a full 15% increase in range. On smooth terrain that is.

Nice build :)

Wishes
 
scorpionice said:
That's what I'm talking about. So final conclusion would be lighting rods kit and your battery? :lol:

If you're on a tight budget, you may want to replace the parts as needed. You might end up being perfectly happy with the way it is. If something happens to fail, you know there are upgrade options. :wink:
 
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