2005 Kona Stinky GNG 1.0 build (mid-drive Stink-E) ABANDONED

Great thread, skyungjae That's just the inspiration I needed to drag my GNG out of the mothballs. Thanks!
 
skyungjae said:
For the most part, I'm done with this project. :)
Click to expand...

I lied...

After installing LighningRods' wider belt upgrade w/ upper sheets, I wanted to take the slack out of secondary chain. I tried removing the half link, which was an utter failure, then decided to order the lower adjustable sheets from LightningRods.

20140216_110719.jpg

Like the original GNG 1.0 lower bracket, I had to trim a bit of the metal off to clear my swing arm.

20140216_110708.jpg

What was great about installing the lower sheets is I didn't have to even tinker with the upper sheets at all. The tension had been dialed in perfectly, so I didn't want to mess with it anyway.

test2.jpg

Of course I had to test it on the trails after installing everything. :wink:

Post ride:
20140216_215725.jpg

The belt tension is dialed in perfectly. :)

20140216_215852.jpg

Secondary chain tension was still tight at the crank position with the least amount of freewheel play. It still has a little slack when I rotate the crank to the opposite position on the freewheel, but I did this so there wouldn't be too much chain tension and pressure on the freewheel.

Anyhow:

20140216_110816.jpg

20140216_110656.jpg


DONE AND DONE!!! For real this time... :twisted:

On a side note, I'm using a similar set up Cyclone triple chainring which gives me two usable chainrings up front. The only difference is that I'm using a sickbikeparts.com steel 48T chainring on the outside instead of the aluminum one supplied with my Cyclone set. This is what the clearance looks like with LightningRods lower sheets next to my 32T inner ring:
20140216_110836.jpg


It really didn't change much from how it was before. I don't think the BB spindle length matters either since I have the 48T lined up to the 13T sprocket on the GNG Jackshaft.
 
Great looking bike John! You did a perfect job of installing everything. I try to make it easy for users to install my parts but it does help to have some wrench skills. Well done!
 
scorpionice said:
Can you measure your build from the BB to the metal tie of the downtube? Making sure it will fit my freeride bike. Thanks
Click to expand...
That's a good indication, but keep in mind that he's using adjustable plates, so there's some +- tolerance play, depending on how he's got them arranged. (both uppers and lowers look to be near maximum extension)
 
If you managed to keep that front derailleur, then cudos to you. The Stinky really needs its stock chain guides, without them the chain will drop regularly.
I have only 1 chain ring so I removed my front derailleur and my chain is regularly dropping. It drops on the chain ring. And if you are in full throttle, it will wrap around the BB and get stuck in the nuts holding the chain rings. I have to figure out a way to get that front derailleur back on.

Congrats on a very nice build.

Wishes
 
I had mine on for a while, by splitting it in half and having only the back half (with the mounts) on it.
Then I added a tab of metal to the front of it, bolted a derailer sprocket onto it and mounted it just above the chain, that keeps the chain on at the top and I have a little guide made from an old reflector bracket at the bottom.
I haven't lost the chain since doing those mods.
 
tomtom123 said:
How is the Battery from Cohismotor? is it holding up well
Click to expand...

The battery is holding up great, but it's certainly not suited for 37A draw. At around 5-8Ah of use, I can hit my LVC at 44V (power cuts when the voltage sags to 40.9V).

I'd highly recommend it for the stock controller which pulls 22A peak.

Wishes said:
If you managed to keep that front derailleur, then cudos to you. The Stinky really needs its stock chain guides, without them the chain will drop regularly.
I have only 1 chain ring so I removed my front derailleur and my chain is regularly dropping. It drops on the chain ring. And if you are in full throttle, it will wrap around the BB and get stuck in the nuts holding the chain rings. I have to figure out a way to get that front derailleur back on.

Congrats on a very nice build.

Wishes
Click to expand...

Thanks. I'll put up another brief update with pictures when I have the time.

So far, I don't think I've had any chain drops with my front derailleur set up. I had a bunch of chain suck when I had my Bionicon C guide and when using brand new chains. Right now, it's running flawless with my 8 speed set up. I had ditched the 9 speed Deore shifter and derailleur for a Sram X7 8 speed. It's a much better shifter and doesn't ghost shift anymore over rough terrain.

I have my front derailleur adjusted very close to the chain. It's almost touching the chain on my 32T front ring and large rear cog. There's no way for it to drop off the chain rings. I've done many stairs, rougher terrain, and bigger jumps than in the past. :D

I've grown a lot as a rider in the past year thanks to the extra riding time I've gotten with this bike.

t0me said:
I had mine on for a while, by splitting it in half and having only the back half (with the mounts) on it.
Then I added a tab of metal to the front of it, bolted a derailer sprocket onto it and mounted it just above the chain, that keeps the chain on at the top and I have a little guide made from an old reflector bracket at the bottom.
I haven't lost the chain since doing those mods.
Click to expand...

I found I had less problems having a chain guide attached to my chain stay. It certainly doesn't look as cool anymore, but it was a matter of chain suck or no chain suck. :lol:

Anyhow, I've been a bit occupied with my park bike build. My Stinky exceeds the 45lbs weight restriction at my local bike park, so I've been working more on this lately:

1557521_10203005552686989_1321714882_n.jpg

2005 Iron Horse Kumich0 (AKA Airborne Taka)
 
When you switch from 9 to 8/7 speed, is the cassette skinnier and you need spacers or width still same? I've been trying to research and can't find answer. Thanks.
 
drew12345 said:
When you switch from 9 to 8/7 speed, is the cassette skinnier and you need spacers or width still same? I've been trying to research and can't find answer. Thanks.
Click to expand...

8 and 9 speed use the same hub (I believe most 10 speed hubs are the same too). I did not need spacers when I swapped in the 8 speed cassette from the 9.
 
Well, it's been quite the journey. Unfortunately, I've decided to scrap my Stink-E build and start with something new later on down the line. :cry:

Since my last update, things were going great until the teeth on my small 25mm wide pulley. LightingRods bent over backwards to get things back on track again. I opted to have my motor shaft swapped out to a keyed shaft for his aluminum pulley rather than getting a slip on version. During the down time I played around with a friend's chain drive kit.

10372332_10203368569082172_3436097117706847327_n.jpg

10314490_10203368569722188_7349824622684290870_n.jpg


Talk about noisy. :lol: Also the primary reduction was pretty lousy and the lack of give on the chain made the power feel more jumpy. This would cause the mounting sheets to twist under quick throttle. I was anxious to get my belt drive back up and running. During the month+ time I waited, I only rode the trails twice due to how loud the chain drive was.

10470609_10203699251349022_4286825803693625189_n.jpg

New shaft with aluminum pulley :D

Anyhow, I got the motor back and it ran well for about two weeks then began having issues and then stopped working. I knew it was the motor because the chain drive motor would operate fine plugged in. Once again, LR bent over backwards to help me get back up and running. During this time, I ended up just borrowing another friend's bike.
GNG1.jpg


LR replaced my motor and bench tested everything, but I wasn't able to get it running no matter what I tried. The closest I got to get it running was this:

Click to watch video.

LR has offered for me to send the motor back, but I think it's best to move onto another project. I'll likely continue using my friend's black Stink-E for the time being, but all of my parts will join the chain drive kit my buddy is selling here:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=61550

The Stink-E is more than half way to becoming Stinky again, and I'm either going to keep it as a park bike or sell it. It's tough which bike I want to keep though.

2005 Iron Horse Kumicho vs. 2005 Kona Stinky

Well, as for my next project... I'm in search of a full suspension frame that'll accommodate em3ev's downtube mount battery:
capture-20140816-232738.jpg


Let me know if you know any such frame. :wink:
 
Sad to here the bad news!! Most likely a problem internally with the chinese motor

Do you have a future motor in mind??
 
speedmd said:
What could go wrong with the motor other than a open/ short or bad hall. Not sure your giving up just yet. Lots of hand holders here for you. Get one of those little testers off ebay and you will find it quick.

Hang in there!
Click to expand...

I know, with time, it's something that could probably be ironed out easily. Unfortunately, time is one thing I don't have a lot of. The Stinky is my primary mode of transportation, and it had already been down for a couple of months. My wife actually suggested I buy an off the shelf bike and not spend all my time wrenching. :lol:

Well, all my stuff is up for sale, someone else can figure it out and have a nice kit on their hands. I'll be exploring other options.
 
skyungjae said:
Well, as for my next project... I'm in search of a full suspension frame that'll accommodate em3ev's downtube mount battery:
capture-20140816-232738.jpg


Let me know if you know any such frame. :wink:
Click to expand...



VNGIpqn.jpg


here's my salvo, large. i'm 5'11" fits me perfectly

pretty sure it'll fit that downtube pack

and no it's not a walmart 'goose. has bearings on the pivots.
 
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