2005 Kona Stinky GNG 1.0 build (mid-drive Stink-E) ABANDONED

[skyungjae]

I love the idea of using a camelbak to hold the batteries. Are you still putting water in it? Definitely stealing this idea for my 100v pack

I haven't used the bladder for this thing in years. With the new battery box, I doubt it would fit. I'm sure it would fit before when had that make-shift coroplast box, there was a lot more space in there with the batteries. I do have enough space on the outside pouch for two water bottles if I need them.

I almost bought a slightly larger hydration pack, so I would have the option of running a bladder. In the end, I'd rather spend that money on something else. :wink:

 

[AmpeD]

The stinke looks like a great bike to convert, but i guess the down side is you need to carry the batteries in your backpack do you think its possible to mount it on the bike ? has anyone done this ?

 

[skyungjae]

The stinke looks like a great bike to convert, but i guess the down side is you need to carry the batteries in your backpack do you think its possible to mount it on the bike ? has anyone done this ?

People have been able to fit like a 5-8Ah LiPo within the frame triangle in a small bag. You can also fit a 10Ah pack (4x 5Ah Zippy two in a series run parallel) in a under the seat bag. In a commuter set up, I'd probably not want to run a battery backpack, but it's great for riding hard trails and doing jumps. It has also survived a good roll.

The Stinky is a great bike, but it is rather heavy. If you're looking for speed or commuting, you're probably better off with an all mountain style bike.

 

[skyungjae]

Though not very informative regarding the GNG kit, I did upgrade the brakes from Hayes HFX 9 to some Hayes Stroker Trails. It was certainly a worth while upgrade. The master cylinder design and quick adjustable lever reach was well worth it. The pads are pretty much the same size, so I doubt there will be much performance increase other than the feel. They certainly are quieter, but that has a lot to do with the pad compound I went with this time around.

Hmmm... I should probably replace my rear tire soon.

Bleeding them was much easier than the HFX 9 due to the master cylinder bleed port already pointing up. There was a little debris when bleeding one of the lines, but the fluid was rather clean for used brakes. The pads that they came with also had plenty of life left, but I put on a new set anyway. I'll hold onto the old pads when the ones I installed new wear out.

The white calipers certainly complement the bike much better than the grey.

 

[Burtie]

The stinke looks like a great bike to convert, but i guess the down side is you need to carry the batteries in your backpack do you think its possible to mount it on the bike ? has anyone done this ?

1kW-h lipo mounted in a stinky triangle:

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?mode=view&id=58981

from
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=12768&start=125#p404048

 

[skyungjae]

The stinke looks like a great bike to convert, but i guess the down side is you need to carry the batteries in your backpack do you think its possible to mount it on the bike ? has anyone done this ?

1kW-h lipo mounted in a stinky triangle:

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?mode=view&id=58981

from
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=12768&start=125#p404048

Not very pretty, but I'm sure that set up has decent range. I much prefer Drunkskunk's set up:

Old thread, but I realized I had never added these pics.

Summer and Winter pics

It's incredibly stealthy, but not a whole lot of Ah. I thought about doing something similar, but my frame triangle is smaller than his year Stinky. I also want more Ah.

 

[Wishes]

Got the e*thirteen chain guide today. It's certainly a tight fit and I scratched my frame tube installing it. I also had to remove the bash guard because the screws would touch the the chain guide. Here are the pictures:



Stair test tomorrow!

Did that end up permanently solve your dropping chain issue? I have the same problem with my Kona, had to remove the stock upper and lower guides, now my chain decides to drop once in a while. And always at the worst times of course.

Wishes

 

[skyungjae]

Got the e*thirteen chain guide today. It's certainly a tight fit and I scratched my frame tube installing it. I also had to remove the bash guard because the screws would touch the the chain guide. Here are the pictures:



Stair test tomorrow!

Did that end up permanently solve your dropping chain issue? I have the same problem with my Kona, had to remove the stock upper and lower guides, now my chain decides to drop once in a while. And always at the worst times of course.

Wishes

It was my bomb proof set up. I kinda miss it. I should've held onto the chain guide instead of selling it.

Right now I'm using a triple chainring, and the derailleur does just a good a job so long as I don't change gears up front.

Problems arise when I change gears up front and the chainline isn't that straight... like I'm on the smallest rear cog. Sometimes going up to the bigger ring up front, the chain will try to fall between the outer two most rings causing a bind I have to undo by hand. Sometimes when I drop from the big ring to the small one and pedal really fast, the chain gets caught on the tooth of the larger ring I was coming off of and folds up into the front derailleur cage. This I can undo while riding by spinning the chainring set backwards using the chain going from the jackshaft like a treadmill.

I adjusted my front derailleur today, so I don't think I'm going to run into the first problem again... which is way worse. The latter problem happens to me on regular bikes too and is no fault of the set up.

 

[skyungjae]

Well, I was able to adjust my front derailleur and eliminate any chain hang ups.

I also decided to flip my stock GNG belt:

This is what my original GNG belt looks like after about 600 miles. :wink:

 

[skyungjae]

Well, I seem to be at battery cross roads. My Zippy LiFePO4 packs have served me well for a good six months. I didn't get the cycles I thought I would out of them, and they're starting to puff. I think it's due to discharging them beyond their over rated C rate after doing my shunt mod.

Anyhow, the batteries are still usable under light load, but definitely not when I'm putting down full wattage. I'm trying to figure out whether to go with four 8000mAh and make a 16Ah 44.4V pack or just get a pre-made LiFeP04 15Ah pack w/ a BMS for around the same price.

decisions decisions... what would you do?

 

[sabongi]

No messy lipo wire connections!
http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=35&product_id=134

 

[skyungjae]

No messy lipo wire connections!
http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=35&product_id=134

Wow, seems a bit pricey for Hong Kong considering a charger isn't included.

 

[Wishes]

I stick 3 x 6 cell 5000 MAH Turnigy Lipo's in a bag in that triangle on my Kona. It is a tight squeeze and the zipper of the bag is hard to close, but it has worked so far...... Until earlier this week.... I always ride on the road or bike paths, I was riding at night without lights, coming off a bike path transitioning to the street, street was under construction and and I did not notice it was 4 feet lower than the bike path. The drop actually made my back suspension move enough to come squeeze my bag of lipos. First time ever, and yes, it pierced 1 cell. I was quick and lucky enough and got the battery out while it was still only smoking. But the fire and smoke show it caused was quite something. It would have been worst but only 2 of the 6 cells burned, i managed to kick loose 4 cells that had not caught fire yet. I had to spend some time convincing the resident that lived in front not to call the police and fire department lol.

Wishes

 

[pendragon8000]

I stick 3 x 6 cell 5000 MAH Turnigy Lipo's in a bag in that triangle on my Kona. It is a tight squeeze and the zipper of the bag is hard to close, but it has worked so far...... Until earlier this week.... I always ride on the road or bike paths, I was riding at night without lights, coming off a bike path transitioning to the street, street was under construction and and I did not notice it was 4 feet lower than the bike path. The drop actually made my back suspension move enough to come squeeze my bag of lipos. First time ever, and yes, it pierced 1 cell. I was quick and lucky enough and got the battery out while it was still only smoking. But the fire and smoke show it caused was quite something. It would have been worst but only 2 of the 6 cells burned, i managed to kick loose 4 cells that had not caught fire yet. I had to spend some time convincing the resident that lived in front not to call the police and fire department lol.

Wishes

so your ok and your bike is ok? lucky save.

 

[deffx]

Very lucky saving your bike and splitting them bricks, good first responce skills and foot work, man these lipo's are dodgy, but are cheap and powerful, dont think ill do it again next time

 

[skyungjae]

I'm probably going to get some sort of pre-made Li-Ion battery with plug and play charging to replace my LiFe pack before I start playing with LiPo. Denisesewa also ran into issues with her Turnigy LiPos.

 

[Wishes]

so your ok and your bike is ok? lucky save.

Yup, both myself and the ebike were unscathed. Only my nylon lipo bag got a little heated up I had to change it.

 

[zaphod911]

Greetings! I am planning a build of my own, and will probally do every upgrade you have posted here (apart from the front shifter, as ill be running power into a 7 speed hub gearbox). Thanks for posting, it has been very informative!

I'm probably going to get some sort of pre-made Li-Ion battery with plug and play charging to replace my LiFe pack before I start playing with LiPo. Denisesewa also ran into issues with her Turnigy LiPos.

I would be very interested in what you would condsider, and find to be, plug and play. I also have had my eyes on em3ev batteries (http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=35&product_id=123), but the price is quite high to say the least...

side note: where did you source your GNG? Direct from the site? How does it hold up to rain?

 

[Wishes]

Greetings! I am planning a build of my own, and will probally do every upgrade you have posted here (apart from the front shifter, as ill be running power into a 7 speed hub gearbox). Thanks for posting, it has been very informative!

I'm probably going to get some sort of pre-made Li-Ion battery with plug and play charging to replace my LiFe pack before I start playing with LiPo. Denisesewa also ran into issues with her Turnigy LiPos.

I would be very interested in what you would condsider, and find to be, plug and play. I also have had my eyes on em3ev batteries (http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=35&product_id=123), but the price is quite high to say the least...

side note: where did you source your GNG? Direct from the site? How does it hold up to rain?

Watch how many Watts you pump through that hub gearbox, I don't know which one you are going to use, but they are notorious for not lasting under heavy torque. And depending how much you mod your gng, you can definately hit that heavy torque level.

 

[skyungjae]

side note: where did you source your GNG? Direct from the site? How does it hold up to rain?

I ordered the kit complete from GNG directly. I've ridden it in pouring rain on the trail before. The jackshaft does rust, and it gets dirty easy. I'd recommend picking up the Gen 1.1 with the mud guard & sealed jackshaft or the 60V chain drive version (which also has a mud guard & sealed jackshaft).

 

[zaphod911]

Thanks for the replies! I hope i'm not hijjacking your thread...

I ordered the kit complete from GNG directly. I've ridden it in pouring rain on the trail before. The jackshaft does rust, and it gets dirty easy. I'd recommend picking up the Gen 1.1 with the mud guard & sealed jackshaft or the 60V chain drive version (which also has a mud guard & sealed jackshaft).

I was thinking of getting the 60v chain drive just to be "future proof," as i am sure i am going to want something beefier down the road, and i have heard alot of bad things about the original belt. Nonetheless, belt drive is attractive for use in the rain and will be quieter. Is this the version 1.1? http://www.gngebike.com/450w-brushless-mud-guard

I just noticed on the site that it can "shift gears." Is something lost in translation or does it have a planetary gear box?

Watch how many Watts you pump through that hub gearbox, I don't know which one you are going to use, but they are notorious for not lasting under heavy torque. And depending how much you mod your gng, you can definately hit that heavy torque level.

I will be using a Nexave 7 speed + roller brake until i can muster the cash to build a sturmey archer 5speed / 90mm drum replacement.

Define heavy torque? I wasnt planning on using anything more than 20A/48V. I know its not going to preform like a Rohloff or a Nuvinci, but assuming i watch the revs when shifting i dont see any issues... Does anyone have first hand experience with hub gearboxes and 1000 watts?

 

[skyungjae]

Thanks for the replies! I hope i'm not hijjacking your thread...

I was thinking of getting the 60v chain drive just to be "future proof," as i am sure i am going to want something beefier down the road, and i have heard alot of bad things about the original belt. Nonetheless, belt drive is attractive for use in the rain and will be quieter. Is this the version 1.1? http://www.gngebike.com/450w-brushless-mud-guard

I just noticed on the site that it can "shift gears." Is something lost in translation or does it have a planetary gear box?

You're not hijacking my thread. I started this thread to get help and help others along the GNG path. I have approximately 650 miles on my original GNG belt. The main issue with the belt is how instantaneous the power delivery is when twisting the throttle. It seems that most people are shredding the belt by putting to much power through it from a stop. Good throttle control is the key to long belt life.

What they mean by "shift gears" is that you can shift the gears in the rear like any other bike using a standard derailleur system. (-_-!) Some people interpreted this as being able to shift gears under load. Of course after a handful of people having their derailleurs fly into their spokes it's clearly not a good idea. :lol: There is no planetary gear box and the primary reduction is done through the belt system.

 

[zaphod911]

You're not hijacking my thread. I started this thread to get help and help others along the GNG path.

There is so much information to be had on this forum, it just happens to be scattered across thousands of builds. I think your GNG build, until you went and put a front derailer on it, represents pretty much everything that *needs* to be upgraded to run 1000W dependably. Im going to order a new BB, new freewheels, and a new chainring as soon as my motor arrives.

I have approximately 650 miles on my original GNG belt. The main issue with the belt is how instantaneous the power delivery is when twisting the throttle. It seems that most people are shredding the belt by putting to much power through it from a stop. Good throttle control is the key to long belt life.

Exactly! I never mash through the gears when I pedal my mountain bike, so why do it when it is electrified? But speaking of throttles, the only thing missing from your build is the upgraded Magura throttle. Have you thought about replacing the original? Does it have a very large dead zone?

 

[skyungjae]

I think your GNG build, until you went and put a front derailer on it, represents pretty much everything that *needs* to be upgraded to run 1000W dependably. Im going to order a new BB, new freewheels, and a new chainring as soon as my motor arrives.

I've ironed out all the issues regarding the front derailleur. I only needed to adjust the outer position screw just a tad bit to bring the derailleur in toward the bike. Since then, it's been worry free, and I actually use my front derailleur more than my rear while commuting. When I'm on flats or going downhill, I'll use the 48T ring. When there's a slight incline, I'll drop it down to 32T. On the trail, I'm usually in the 32T ring the whole time.

Exactly! I never mash through the gears when I pedal my mountain bike, so why do it when it is electrified? But speaking of throttles, the only thing missing from your build is the upgraded Magura throttle. Have you thought about replacing the original? Does it have a very large dead zone?

I haven't tried any other throttles, so I really have no basis of comparison what a large or small dead zone feels like. Like releasing a clutch pedal in a car or lever on a motorcycle, there is that small bit of space, in this case twist, before the throttle engages. After a few minutes of riding it for the first time, it wasn't difficult to adjust to. Having to put less motion into twisting works great for me on the trails with the half twist set up. I can hold the grips harder with my hand and not have to over exaggerate twisting the throttle to engage the motor.

 

[zaphod911]

I've ironed out all the issues regarding the front derailleur. I only needed to adjust the outer position screw just a tad bit to bring the derailleur in toward the bike. Since then, it's been worry free, and I actually use my front derailleur more than my rear while commuting. When I'm on flats or going downhill, I'll use the 48T ring. When there's a slight incline, I'll drop it down to 32T. On the trail, I'm usually in the 32T ring the whole time.

Don't misunderstand me... There are countless benefits from running gears through the front chainring. I just personally find a clean, straight chain line more appealing.