#219 Chain Front Sprocket Suppliers?

gwhy! said:
on a side note of delta/wye configs, I modded one of my cheapo motors and yes it did reduce the speed and increased the torque but ( for reasons i didnt bother investigating due to my gearing is ok in delta ) ran hotter under load.
Click to expand...


If this was on the motor fitted with sensors, the reason is simple. Timing needs to be shifted by +-30deg, as the field will either lag or lead by 30deg of how it was previously.

30deg timing advance = a hell of a lot more current and heat!
 
no i was running it sensorless. I was aware that the timimg would have to be shifted if I ran it with halls. I may revisit that motor at some point but so far the higher rpm has not really been a problem with the gearing im using.
 
mud2005 said:
dude, I just became a fan of wye :D it sounds great! Is there a way to solder these connections on my current 3210?
Click to expand...
Swapping from Delta to Wye gets you more or less the same result as using the motor with a different winding (Kv)...... If you reduce the shaft speed, you reduce the max. continuous power output....
 
gwhy! said:
on a side note of delta/wye configs, I modded one of my cheapo motors and yes it did reduce the speed and increased the torque but ( for reasons i didnt bother investigating due to my gearing is ok in delta ) ran hotter under load.
Click to expand...
Doesn't this just indicate that the torque limit was set by the battery?
 
The 3210 and 3220 AstroFlight motors come in a wye configuration by default. You can also just get them with all six wires brought out. The specs, however, are based on wye mode.

-- Gary
 
Luke said,

They don't use wye from the factory because it requires making 3 solder connections.
Click to expand...

Gary said,

The 3210 and 3220 AstroFlight motors come in a wye configuration by default.
Click to expand...

we have a discrepancy here.
 
Trust Gary on this one!

Every outrunner motor I've ever worked with comes in delta, with no exceptions that I've ever seen (doesn't mean they don't exist though!)


I don't play with inrunners, and I've never checked inside an Astro, Gary has, and Gary would know this one. When you mentioned 130KV, I made a mistake and thought you were talking about the 130KV HC outrunner which is in Delta. My mistake!

Bob's motors aren't like mass production China HC motors. He can actually spend 5 minutes to solder some leads together and put them in WYE to get the performance he wants.
 
on topic:
I attempted to bore a tapred 219 motor sprocket tonight to 1/2" ID to fit my bmx transmision.....hokey pete martha, that thing is hardend all the way through. & my smallest carbide boring tool (the not broken ones) are too large. :cry:
now I have justification to buy/replace some tooling.

I have also found the downside to 219 chain systems. There are no masterlinks avalible (that I could find anyway) that means more tools.

Gary, any word yet from your machinist? I really want to avoid making my own.
 
Back to the top

Gary, hear anything??????
 
Thud,

Easy solution - just build the light sabre for the dude in the other thread and make it 8mm (or whatever) diameter beam then bore the hardened stuff with the sabre.

Ok seriously... I recall my cart buddies having master links on their #219 drives, email already sent... should hear back today where or how they got them. Also Im pretty sure they had 1/2 links too for fine tuning chain lengths.

-Mike
 
You need a 3-flute 12mm and 3-flute 1/2" carbide drill right?

I think we could all pitch-in a few bucks and have those arrive in a neat box at your door :)

Then you could be the guy who bores sprockets for us :)

Forums are neat things like that :)
 
http://drillbitwarehouse.com/home?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=631&category_id=32

That looks like the tool for the job. :)
 
Luke,

Find one for boring to 8mm id and I'll pony up 20 for each for a total of 40.00. PM me if it comes together and send me details on who to paypal.

-Mike
 
mwkeefer said:
Luke,

Find one for boring to 8mm id and I'll pony up 20 for each for a total of 40.00. PM me if it comes together and send me details on who to paypal.

-Mike
Click to expand...


You're a damn good man Mike :)

This is the spirit that enables us to make awesome forum projects, and help the EV community evolve.

I think the only potential problem with 8mm would be finding a 219 sprocket that has a hole smaller than 8mm. I think it would require something like a reducer bushing to be set into the sprocket, but maybe they come in small enough bores, I really don't know. :)
 
You are some busy boys!

I do think it will be an issue on the 8mm.
But a tapered adapter may be the ticket for the smaller bore requirements. I already mucked the taper out of my lil sproket so I can't recall if the minor was less than 3/8". I will order another & see what can be done.

I also have concerns on a carbide drill running through the bore, the key way would require a bit with a good deal of helix in it, I haven't seen one of those invented yet.
So hold off before spending any money till we have a vialble solution.
 
I've just measured the Rotax one I have here - the minor diameter is 10.2mm; major diameter 14.8mm; length 19mm.

Yes, tapered plug would work for 8mm.

Most of the weight on this one is in the thick flange that's on the narrow end of the taper..... the 14t weighs just over 100 grams... :evil:
 
If you have a 17mm shaft it is fairly easy to drill out and tap a bolt hole and taper a shaft 10* to retain the yahmaha 10 or 11 tooth tapered sprockets with a bolt. You would not even need a key or keyway to secure the sprocket from sliping. These sprockets are used on gokarts that have 20+ HP. A ebike up to 5 horsepower could use a more efficient Extron type composite 219 motor sprocket to add some more efficiency and quietness to the motor drive whthout wearing out for ebike use.
A mold injected Motor sprocket would be a winner! :D

10taper.jpg
 
jscoot said:
If you have a 17mm shaft it is fairly easy to drill out and tap a bolt hole and taper a shaft 10* to retain the yahmaha 10 or 11 tooth tapered sprockets with a bolt. You would not even need a key or keyway to secure the sprocket from sliping. These sprockets are used on gokarts that have 20+ HP. A ebike up to 5 horsepower could use a more efficient Extron type composite 219 motor sprocket to add some more efficiency and quietness to the motor drive whthout wearing out for ebike use.
A mold injected Motor sprocket would be a winner! :D

10taper.jpg
Click to expand...


hold the press . is that keyed sprocket 17mm id ????

im laughing if it is . just so happens my scrap heap motor has a 17mm shaft. i just finnished working out a one way clutch on that shaft so it would figure that this sprocket exists forcing me to put the sprag at the driven end. doh.
 
mine is mounted this way, i had the original shaft on the reduction unit removed and a taper put on the new shaft with a screw in th end, keyway too, i think.

D
 
Luke,

Thanks bud, always glad to put a little $$$ (what little I have) towards advancing the community projects.

If I am not mistaken, the currie drive motors use an 8mm #219... I think anyway, problem is they are cotter pinned on the shaft.

-Mike
 
Here is a possible find.
http://www.zoomkarts.com/product.asp?productID=139

I don't understand the 10/14 designation. I suspect it is a taper description.

Any one care to speculate?
I am really trying to avaoid making a hob to cut drive sprockets with. (219 is a low priority for me atm)
 
This is the sprocket that I am using, its 14mm to the shoulder ( straight ) then a taper to 10mm for about the same distance 5mm'ish it was very easy to mod, I cut it in half so it was just the 14mm straight bit then made a 10mm id hub with a grub screw to fit into the 14mm then welded the hub into place. I did find a better sprocket ( very easy to mount ) but I cant find a picture for it at the mo
cha033-037.jpg

edit: just found a pic;
Very easy to mount this one 8) its (I think) 15mm id


es_mockup.jpg
 
Alright,
If any one wants a straight 3/4 adapter to fit the gokartgalexy.com sprockets I can make them for $6 a coppy+shipping

That will get you a keyed adapter & 2 set screws to mount a AZUSA engineering sprocket 12t# 1952-k thru 18t#1958

http://www.azusaeng.com/

http://www.gokartgalaxy.com/engine_sprockets1.htm
 
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