3d Printed Motor Mount for E-Longboard

[torqueboards]

Not sure about the OP or were they went. I was originally going to do an ABS mount as well but with how cheap aluminum is. Its pretty unsafe to bet your life on the 3d prints since we are going 15-20mph if not higher.

For enclosures and stuff it works great but actual mechanical parts I wouldnt bother. It definetly did help for protyping the real thing though.

If you do try I would go with like .20 and 100% if not even more dense.

 

[voodoojar]

Can you share the 3d files so I can print them out? my email is andrew@voodoojar.com Thank you.

 

[kfong]

I've seen people do a lost wax process but with plastic. You can cast aluminum parts from your 3D part. You will have to increase the size by 2-3% to account for shrinkage.

 

[lookitsneil]

Hey guys I'm back...its been a while but I've been caught up with school and work and have no time for printing. I've gotten my rig to work but as expected the plastics are too weak and melt too easily when under high amounts of friction. I have yet to be able to get my printer to print in ABS, for some reason it just hates printing the stuff so I'm researching some metal milling or some company that can make me a metal blank of my mount, although it seems it will be quite expensive.

I'm also looking to see if I can find anyone making or selling mounts, that way I can still use my motor and other pieces, right now its a very expensive static object while I wait on a possible lead for milling.

JstSqzd your mount looks 100% better than mine I would love to trade files and see what we are both doing right or wrong. PM me when you get a chance.

 

[sn0wchyld]

Hey guys I'm back...its been a while but I've been caught up with school and work and have no time for printing. I've gotten my rig to work but as expected the plastics are too weak and melt too easily when under high amounts of friction. I have yet to be able to get my printer to print in ABS, for some reason it just hates printing the stuff so I'm researching some metal milling or some company that can make me a metal blank of my mount, although it seems it will be quite expensive.

I'm also looking to see if I can find anyone making or selling mounts, that way I can still use my motor and other pieces, right now its a very expensive static object while I wait on a possible lead for milling.

JstSqzd your mount looks 100% better than mine I would love to trade files and see what we are both doing right or wrong. PM me when you get a chance.

add your location to your profile mate, will make it easier to reccomend guys with the appropriate gear in your area. If your in aus I can probably cut them for you, so long as your not in any massive rush (Ive got a CNC mill, but in the process of upgrading it atm). have a look at my longboard build for the mounts i made myself...

 

[beto_pty]

HI
Nice design.
My first aluminum motor mount bent under the stress of 6s batteries.. it was 1/4" aluminim.. moved up to 1/2" aluminum and solved the problem.
Also welding the mount on the aluminum trucks solved all the screw tightening problems...
So I guess it is a trade off.. easier printing... trickier/higher maintanance running VS more complex printing/welding no maintanance lifetime. (obviously also helps to have a cnc and aluminum welding equipment)

 

[JacobS]

hey can you please post the Stl file so i can print out the mount

 

[nechaus]

I honestly believe nylon would be up to the task.. I smashed small gears at multiple angles with a hammer and it just deformed and never broke or delaminated
some bits kinda teared away.. but it never cracked or split, just squished up


if i were you guys, get some low temp nylon and try it out... see if you can print with it..
if nylon works it should really be able to hold up to the task.. ABS is pretty awesome stuff and I love PLA but nylon is going to be ideal for motor mounts or gears.
just have to make the parts thick so its rigid enough..


I don't believe there is any point in trying to hold the print down with glue or a big brim providing your getting good first layer adhesion, if it's going to warp or delaminate your gonna need to try and add heat.. but best thing is using a heated chamber.. No point in trying to get it to stick down if it's going to internally delam.

 

[killisch]

Nylon and polycarb work pretty well for the drive gears i find.. but as far a the mounts go i only use plastic to prototype a design before making it out of aluminium.
basically any sideways movement in your bracket allows the belt to skip teeth and then it's game over. not so bad with accelerating.. but bloody dangerous if you try to rely on the braking.

I was printing some pretty solid designs for caliber trucks and although they held up well enough for week or so.. they eventually flog out and become too sloppy.

One added bonus of the nylon gear is it deforms to the belt nicely and they tend to grip very well even at lower tensions.
Still i'd be using aluminium gears on anything that needed to be bulletproof.
again i use the 3d printing as a prototyping aid more than anything.
helps to be ale to think of something and within an hour be holding it in your hand.

This is a 30t T5 gear printed with nylon trimmer line.
my nozzle is a .75 at the moment so i'm losing a great deal of definition on the finer corners.

 

[rs4race]

Even at 100% printed mounts won't hold up. Well.. they hold up to regular street, and smooth surfaces, but not too well to the expansion joints on sidewalks. I had been playing with them and had them Last a long time just riding on the street, but the sidewalks destroyed them quickly. The printed pulleys I'm using have held up really well though.

Your design looks a bit different maybe it will hold up better.

 

[okp]

nice look ! which 3D printer are you using ?

 

[torqueboards]

Voodoo mentioned his pulleys have held up for about 400 miles. Have you guys tried using Nylon yet --> http://www.makergeeks.com/ta618ny3dprf.html.

Seems like most 3D Printers are capable of printing this type of Nylon. Worth a shot.

 

[killisch]

If your going to be printing nylon.
do yourself a favor and grab a sheet of bakelite (phenolic resin board) as nylon sticks to cellulose based stuff.
sand the top layer off in a cross hatch pattern with either really rough sand paper or a belt sander like i did.
haven't had a part lift up no matter how large it is. 10mm brim and it cruises along.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VPAEL6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

All the nylon you'll ever need just dry it in the oven before prints and it print like butter. equates to about 1.65mm filament.

Cheers

 

[nechaus]

The problem with holding it down heaps is that it will internally delam. . IV. Printed a model before and it spit right down the center of the head of the model up top.. bottom was flat on the bed with no signs of lifting

If you can print with extra heat and it does not warp .. it will be a bloody strong part..

Ideally you should mount a thermal camera and use this to tweak it.

 

[torqueboards]

@killisch -- Nice freaking find! 3 lbs of Nylon for $20 bucks.. that's a damn good deal..

Going to buy a batch and read more on printing nylon.

 

[theprodigyp]

Nice job! pretty clean designs. I have designed some 3D printed mounts that fit my ATS MBS mountain board trucks. They have worked well but because of toe speed and torque on my board I have destroyed them. 3D prints from ABS dont hold up well. Hopefully they work out for you though!

 

[rs4race]

Nylon is very durable printed. Its just hard to print. You have to dry it really well. I have had good luck printing it at 250C extruder on 80C Print bed. I use elmers extreme glue stick to prep a glass surface. Make sure your first print layer is quality or it will peel up later.

 

[nechaus]

This is the best nylon i have used so far for inter-layer bonding.
I keep my nylon in a air tight container, Prior to use, I put in oven @ 60c-70c for about an hour, if it's to hot, it will discolor
Wrap in aluminium foil and bake!

https://www.bilbycnc.com.au/DispCat.asp?CatID=9&SubCatID=110
"nylon Filament (clear/White) on a 500g spool
This new experimental filament is AUSTRALIAN MADE!
We have teamed with an Australian Nylon manufacturer to produce beautiful nylon filament that is clear when printed very thin and milky white when more solid. We have been extruding at 220 degrees with great results...more information coming soon.
We have had them made on plastic spools measuring 16cm wide and 80mm deep with a 56mm hole (compatible with all 3D printers).
We can manufacture these in other colours...but which colours do you want? Email reception@bilbycnc.com.au and let us know which colours you would like. You also dye nylon filament with nylon fabric dyes. If you dip one end of the spool into one colour and the other into a different colour, you get a constantly (randomly) changing colour effect.
More Information about this item
Qty x $34.95"

 

[Ipodman1]

Hi my name is simon and I was interested in building by own electric skateboard. Would u please be able to send me the cad files at simonsky26@gmail.com . It would be greatly appreciated.
Sincerely ,
Simon

 

[bandaro]

Hi my name is simon and I was interested in building by own electric skateboard. Would u please be able to send me the cad files at simonsky26@gmail.com . It would be greatly appreciated.
Sincerely ,
Simon

Hey Simon, check out this thread, it has pretty much every part that the community has come up with linked in it in a printable file.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=64708