72v 1500W 40A Hua Tong CA08 XM06AD_P04.1 controller

wesnewell said:
They aren't fake, otherwise they wouldn't work. Check the International Rectifier website and you will find that IR is not part of the part number stamped on parts. Are these made by IR? Don't know. Don't care. Didn't look close enough. Wait, I've got one open.... Why yes they are The IR logo is below the part number. Not that it makes a bit of difference. They could still be fake.
Click to expand...

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10655&hilit=counterfeit

please read the first 2 pages of this thread. there is a statement there are no fb4110 fets produced by IR.
i know this is about 4410 fets, and the other thread is about 4110 fets. but the same story applies for the 4410 fets i think

what the difference is, they probably will not handle the current they are rated for in the specsheet

Black6spdZ said:
Correct me if my calculations are wrong, but I measured 0.3 ohms between each of my phase windings on my 48v 1000w motor. So if your supply was a consistent 72v / 0.3 ohms the max current between each phase would be 240 amps. If this current was shared between 5 Fets such as this controller each would have to carry 48 amps.. well within a 96A tolerance... and thats if the power was held on 100%.. but it is pulsed and modulated so never would see that amount of current.. besides the controller will power down the motor if it detects its stalled anyway.
Click to expand...

the current is shared by 2 fets. (i think on the high side)
the current is shared by 3 fets on the low side (or the other way around)

as an example:
the current goes from the + of the battery to the high side fets(phase A)
the current goes through the motor coils
the current goes from the low side fets (on phase B) to the battery -

this is 1 step from the 6 step commutation in a brushless controller.
 
I'm not wasting any more time on this fake or not fake fet crap because I really don't care one way or the other. What I do know is that it will handle over 100V input from the battery pack because I've put over 100V on it. No ones twisting your arm to buy one.
 
nieles said:
wesnewell said:
They aren't fake, otherwise they wouldn't work. Check the International Rectifier website and you will find that IR is not part of the part number stamped on parts. Are these made by IR? Don't know. Don't care. Didn't look close enough. Wait, I've got one open.... Why yes they are The IR logo is below the part number. Not that it makes a bit of difference. They could still be fake.
Click to expand...

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10655&hilit=counterfeit

please read the first 2 pages of this thread. there is a statement there are no fb4110 fets produced by IR.
i know this is about 4410 fets, and the other thread is about 4110 fets. but the same story applies for the 4410 fets i think

what the difference is, they probably will not handle the current they are rated for in the specsheet

Black6spdZ said:
Correct me if my calculations are wrong, but I measured 0.3 ohms between each of my phase windings on my 48v 1000w motor. So if your supply was a consistent 72v / 0.3 ohms the max current between each phase would be 240 amps. If this current was shared between 5 Fets such as this controller each would have to carry 48 amps.. well within a 96A tolerance... and thats if the power was held on 100%.. but it is pulsed and modulated so never would see that amount of current.. besides the controller will power down the motor if it detects its stalled anyway.
Click to expand...

the current is shared by 2 fets. (i think on the high side)
the current is shared by 3 fets on the low side (or the other way around)

as an example:
the current goes from the + of the battery to the high side fets(phase A)
the current goes through the motor coils
the current goes from the low side fets (on phase B) to the battery -

this is 1 step from the 6 step commutation in a brushless controller.
Click to expand...

I believe you are correct sir.. first half of the cycle the perm mags are attracted by two FETs then attracted by three.. this is ok because the pulsewidth is halfed again.. we can still draw 380 amps per fet with 20% DC. Lets find if the M1-M3 contacts have power adjustments or regen cabailities.
 
Here we go guys.. did some testing tonight with the bike flipped upside down and found a few things...
pad M2 to ground is low power mode.. I'm guessing about 60% from the speed decrease at WOT
pad X is regen braking.. with wheel spinning WOT and ground this pin voltage jumped higher than batteries resting voltage and wheel came to a pretty quick hault
grounding pads DS and SL just seem to disable the motor.. like a kill switch
ground pad SX seems to function like another low power mode like M2
pad M1, M3 and DS dont appear to have any function

had to swap U and V phase wires and V and W hall wires to get the motor to run correctly
 
Thanks Black6spdZ. The way you swapped hall and phase wires through me until I noticed that U and V phase are yellow and green, and W and V hall wires are also yellow and green. There are lots of other pads. Did you try any of them? Also, what size battery pack were you using when you tested regen, and how much did the voltage jump? Looks like I'm going to have to dig up some more toggle switches.
 
How do you guys wire more leads out of the controller? The waterproofing is pretty good, will I have to drill another hole into the aluminum casing?

+1 on checking regen voltage. Looks like we'll have to do the R12 mod I'm guessing for bigger packs like ~83v
 
I knew the wires probably werent correct from earlier in this thread.. but when I opened it up I noticed that the colors didnt match the pad markings between phase and hall wires. I swapped the hall wires around to match the color of phase wires but that didn't work either.. either my motor is wired wrong or there is a PCB silkscreen error on this board... not that big of a deal though. I'm not sure how high the regen voltage will go as I just had my bike flipped upside down and the wheel spinning freely.. so not much momentum to push it but the voltage did increase for a split second. I am using 10x prius NiMH packs for 72 volts but may move up to 12 packs for 89v.
 
Well if its regen at 72v then I think most of us would be okay, Im only running 20s so 72v would be fine when Im running down to 3.6v/cell. Hopefully the regen is around ~80+ volts so it would work even at the start of battery drain.

I simply drilled a hole into the side to bring the leads through. With pads m2 and x ready, I can move onto the next phase of my build.
 
So if I understood correctly what was stated above, it would mean that you can switch the useless "voltmeter" wires to M2 and GND pads. With an external switch between the two, that would be the low power mode switch, right ?
 
PeeHell said:
So if I understood correctly what was stated above, it would mean that you can switch the useless "voltmeter" wires to M2 and GND pads. With an external switch between the two, that would be the low power mode switch, right ?
Click to expand...

correct.. do you have a mate to that plug?
 
You can use anything you want. I'd actually suggest keeping the "volt alarm" plug and use it. Attach a voltmeter to it and its no longer useless.
 
Black6spdZ said:
PeeHell said:
If pad X seems to be regen, wouldn't we be better to hook it up to the brake levers ?
Click to expand...

sure.. that way you at least get some of the energy back needed to slow you down and save on brake pads
Click to expand...
Are you saying that grounding X actually engages the regen brakes without The Brake-Hi line being pulled high? That would be great if it also disengages cruise control the way the brake-hi does. I was thinking that grounding X just enables regen braking, but still had to be activated with brake-hi through the ebrakes.
 
I'm also looking for a reverse if anyone finds it. I'm still at least a few days away from getting a test setup.
 
wesnewell said:
Black6spdZ said:
PeeHell said:
If pad X seems to be regen, wouldn't we be better to hook it up to the brake levers ?
Click to expand...

sure.. that way you at least get some of the energy back needed to slow you down and save on brake pads
Click to expand...
Are you saying that grounding X actually engages the regen brakes without The Brake-Hi line being pulled high? That would be great if it also disengages cruise control the way the brake-hi does. I was thinking that grounding X just enables regen braking, but still had to be activated with brake-hi through the ebrakes.
Click to expand...

Just splice the wire from pad x to brake-hi, that way whenever you pull on the brakes the regen automatically engages. You can also have a switch if you want so say you dont want regen, just put a switch before the splice and you can leave it off while still having the brake hi line.
 
The brake wire only cuts power to the motor so that the wheel freewheels, whereas Pad X should actually slow down the motor by making it a generator.
 
Thats funny .. it should be called coast then.. same as letting off the throttle completely. Only purpose it serves is to keep someone from pushing through their brakes.
 
It serves a purpose actually, if you're cruising along and have to hit the brakes extremely quickly, it'll cut power to the motor. Sometimes you can't react fast enough to let off the throttle. Sad part is that once you let go of the brakes you might get thrown off your bike if there is enough torque :D
 
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