72v 1500W 40A Hua Tong CA08 XM06AD_P04.1 controller

It will work with 9c for sure but I need to find the proper color combination. Swapping the green and blue makes the wheel vibrate. BTW where did you buy your lower voltage hua tong controller ?
 
i bought it from Chatparts.com , dealer Bruce. hua tong supply controllers to them also. i cannot find the 48v 2000watts, 18fet in DHgate.com or any other sellers. The 1st time i bought from him price is expensive, USD65, 2nd one is USD55.00 all with FAST shipping/ Ems is always expensive. 4days to from China to SG here. the hua tong 72v 1500watts is 15fets. i know most guys have bought price is half of my, but i got no choice to pay abit more. I don't mind, becos my Goal is to make cyclone 1200watts alive again!, so i did it.

why did it vibrate. have you tested other controller for the 9c, did it run perfertly ? hall sensor is it okay , and tested all gOod ?? there are 36 combination, tested all of them. i had also tested cyclone with conhis standard controller but the old version did not work... ! make sure when you test the 9c motor, ensure the hall wires are 100% working. my previous test on cyclone with hua tong fail , reason is bad one. The red wire clipper wire is spoil. so it fails to work.

ken
 
Thank for the links. My motor was running fine with last week an infineon 12 FET controller. I swapped for the hua tong controller and the motor is now vibrating and turning very slow. Wrong combinaisons I guess... Could it be the throttle? Wich wire is connected to what ?
 
Always... your hands must near the Power switch. anytime. if you feel Heat!.. Off the switch quickly. During that time i was doing 36 combination with conhis standard controller for cyclone motor... i was trying to find the right one. if is wrong !, you can hear noise error.. you will not damage the wires or the motor. when you do this test, soft throttle abit by bit. see if it spin slowly or not,, then you can go fast and full throttle. First test, just check it can spin slowly first or not !!.. how many combination can spin slowly. and if can, you can try abit more speed, and full throttle later.

if combination is wrong, you can hear Funny noise, very strange kind of spin. for my hua tong test on this conhis motor. it was rather a very quick one. i got it correctly, as well for the cyclone motor, i got it correct too. less then 10mins, i know the combination already. hua tong is impressive. For my case, conhismotor version year 2010 april. i just swap the yellow and Blue. The green STAY same position. hall sensor, GREEn stay same position, only the hall sensor Yellow and blue swap, that all. ! your could be different, so try all the combination , sure you find the right one.

ken
 
Thank you I got it working. The problem was the 60/120 degrees angle switch that was the problem. Best bang for the buck controller.
 
PeeHell said:
Thank you I got it working. The problem was the 60/120 degrees angle switch that was the problem. Best bang for the buck controller.
Click to expand...
I don't have a 9C, but could you please clarify phase and hall wire combos, and 60/120 settings for others that do. Also the 9C model. Thanks.
 
I' own an 9c 2806. I left the 60/120 degrees unplugged to make it work otherwise it was going slow and vibrating. My color combinaison is the following :

Hall:
yellow » blue
green » green
blue » yellow

phase:
yellow « blue
green « green
blue « yellow

I also hooked up the "voltmeter" plug to pad M2/ground with a switch and it is really the low power mode. I can also confirm that the X pad for regen really stop the wheel altough I didn't measured the battery voltage.

It is really great controller for the money ! It does everything an expensive infineon controller does for 1/4 of the money. For those who are looking for a reverse, you just have to find the proper color combinaison and it will go reverse.

I was wondering if one of you guys would know the real LVC of this controller ?

Edit :
the green blue phase and hall swap works fine too
 
LVC is almost always set to 10.5V times the number of 12v sla batteries in a system, so that would be 63V. I haven't verified this, but I'd bet money it's very close to that.
 
PeeHell said:
I' own an 9c 2806. I left the 60/120 degrees unplugged to make it work otherwise it was going slow and vibrating. My color combinaison is the following :

Hall:
yellow » blue
green » green
blue » yellow

phase:
yellow « blue
green « green
blue « yellow
Click to expand...
Thanks for that, I'm expecting Hua Tong to arrive real soon, so now I don't have to go throught all combinations :). Just one question: left side is motor or controller cable colors?
 
Just swap the color going out of the controller to the motor. You can swap it directly in the case of the controller while you open it to get the low power and regen modes
 
Personally, I didn't change anything inside the controller. The phase wires you just hook according to colors, and I moved the hall wire around in the controller connector, which only takes about 30 seconds. Leaving the insides as it came from the factory. The controller throttle connector is female, as is my throttle connector. For it, I just cut 3 thin strips of thin aluminum about an inch long, mated them and used electrical tape to hold the connectors flush together.
 
Could the phase wire be matched in such way that the bike doesn't reach it's top speed ? Because when I release the throttle there's a slight knock coming from the hub. I mean, are the phase wire combinaison only working or not working ? Can it half work ?
 
PeeHell said:
Could the phase wire be matched in such way that the bike doesn't reach it's top speed ? Because when I release the throttle there's a slight knock coming from the hub. I mean, are the phase wire combinaison only working or not working ? Can it half work ?
Click to expand...

yes.. there is a combination that the motor appears to work but it growls and draws alot of current! try swapping two motor phase wires when you get to that point.
 
Hey hi all.

Do anyone know the LVC on this controller for sure?
And how to possibly lower it?

I have a few of these controllers.

Am running them with GM hubs, I swapped the green and yellow phase wires, and also one or two of the hall sensore wires,(I can't remember which ones right now hehe),,

Anyway, my problem is that my controller seems to cut off power to the motor, as if it thinks my battery is flat.
I have tried running 20s lipo, and it just shuts off after a few seconds of use, then say after 30 seconds or so, it comes back on for another few seconds if you get the idea.

Also tried 25s lipo, but it would not turn on with 25s lipo, so I used my 20s lipo pack a bit to flatten it, then plugged in another 5s pack to make a 25s pack, and it powered up, but still cuts out after just 20 seconds or so of use.

Also I ran it on a lower voltage 60v pack, and it still runs exactly the same as my 20s lipo and 25s lipo pack, as in it just powers down after a few seconds use.

Also if I lift the rear wheel up, it seems to maybe run for a bit longer.

I dont have any of the extra wires connected, eg : reduced power mode or anything lol.

And am sure I have the phase/hall wires connected correctly, as the motor runs very smooth, and sounds perfect, and nothing gets warm.

Any ideas?
Would be great to get it running with either 25s lipo or 20s lipo or the 60v pack.


Thanks everyone.
 
if i have run my 60v controller, on a 48v lifepo4 pack. it will cut off power then is full throttle. If you have throttle slowly, it will not cut off at all. it is i have full throttle and it needs to draw volts, but my lifepo4 is only 48v, it's not enough.so it cut off. however i add another 6v SLa battery, it runs very good, and also, i add 12v sla battery it runs better . i have run my 48v 2000watts on 48v lifepo4 headway cells on two different motors, they work well on all speed, fast or slow. hua tong 48v 2000watts on cyclone motor has plenty of fun!. The best thing compare orginal cyclone motors do not have one thing.. hi brake switch,/ motor switch off. Now i have this safety feature switch. you can see all the cyclone controller just don't have this ... " HI!.. brake wire : ( :cry:

ken.
 
someone with a CA will chime in eventually on the exact LVC but if I was to guess the preprogrammed LVC were most likely intended for a 24s LiFePO4 or 20s Li-Ion packs, 2.5-2.8v LVC (60-67v) and 2.8-3v LVC (56-60v) respectively. I'm pretty sure it would be programmed somewhere around 60v.

SkyCaptain.. do you have a volt meter connected while this power down occurs? Maybe you have a bad cell or two in your pack?
 
LVC is about 60V. I can run mine with 15s lipo @~62V, but not with 14s lipo @ ~57V. I would never try 25s unless using it under volted closer to 100V. Might work at 25s (105V) but that's pushing the 100V spec of the parts. Don't be shocked if you blow some caps or fets.
Skycaptain, If you have the same effect with multiple controllers, I'd say you have a battery problem. I've got 2 of these controllers and they both work fine. Also using a 48V 1000W GM motor. Hook up a vm to check the voltage drop when they cut out.
Check this thread about changing lvc.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=26306&hilit=changing+lvc&start=45#p432720
 
Hi folks.

I have read through this thread and I just wanted to confirm a few things:

1. This controller has regen and the possibility of a three-speed-switch.

2. This controller can handle 24s of LiFePo4 and, barely, 24s of LiPo

3. There is no possibility of a Cycle Analyst DP or Programming.

4. This controller uses 4410 Fet's, Which are a genuine Fet, but not as good as 4110 Fets.

I might get one of these to use with an X5 or my new moped hub motor. But I won't bother if there is no chance of modding them.

Thanks and good luck.

TMV.
 
I dont see any reason a CA-DP couldnt be used.. you have the S+ or S- pads (speed sense from fet), tap on both sides of the shunt and 0-5v input for speed input. I may opt to try this. Only reason I can see to do stand alone is if you swap controllers around alot.
 
Black6spdZ said:
I dont see any reason a CA-DP couldnt be used.. you have the S+ or S- pads (speed sense from fet), tap on both sides of the shunt and 0-5v input for speed input. I may opt to try this. Only reason I can see to do stand alone is if you swap controllers around alot.
Click to expand...

Hi Black6spdz and thanks for your fast reply.

If a Cycle Analyst DP can be arranged then I might get one of these and try to get some better Fet's or something.

I won't be using a Stand-Alone, when I make a bike, everything is wired permanent, no switching around, I don't use hall-sensor connectors, I braid the wires, solder, and heat-shrink. Same for 3-spd and throttle.

IF a CA-DP can be setup this could make for a very useful bargain controller.

Cheers.
 
this will be good if somebody could and try to replace all the fets and caps.. maybe it will work, i like to see. I think is interesting to see
 
kentlim26 said:
this will be good if somebody could and try to replace all the fets and caps.. maybe it will work, i like to see. I think is interesting to see
Click to expand...

I may try to stuff some larger caps in there as my project progresses. just have to see how many of my prius cells I can recover first.
 
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