72v 1500W 40A Hua Tong CA08 XM06AD_P04.1 controller

[Black6spdZ]

It serves a purpose actually, if you're cruising along and have to hit the brakes extremely quickly, it'll cut power to the motor. Sometimes you can't react fast enough to let off the throttle. Sad part is that once you let go of the brakes you might get thrown off your bike if there is enough torque

or you can practice your power wheelies

 

[wesnewell]

There are some misconceptions on what Brake-Hi does here. Above ~75V when positive voltage (not ground) is applied to Brake-HI, it only disengages cruise control by cutting power to the motor. But when your battery voltage is lower than about 75V it also applies braking power to the motor, but without regen, as battery voltage actually drops when applied. I believe Brake-Hi was originally connected to a kickstand switch to cut power to the motor when it was down as a safety feature on the scooter the controller was originally set up for. I wired it through the ebrakes to battery positive trying to get it to do regen. It now seems like Brake-hi has nothing to do with it, and ground through the ebrakes to the X pad will engage regen braking. Since Brake-Hi is activated with a positive voltage and X with a ground, I don't think you want to splice them together.

 

[PeeHell]

The brake wire only cuts power to the motor so that the wheel freewheels, whereas Pad X should actually slow down the motor by making it a generator.

The pad X must cuts the power to the motor and/or the cruise control to make it a generator. Doesn't it makes the brake wire useless ?

 

[iovaykind]

The pad X must cuts the power to the motor and/or the cruise control to make it a generator. Doesn't it makes the brake wire useless ?

Not necessarily, sometimes people want braking without regen. Regen is only good for those who want to put back a little juice into their batteries, though the main purpose is to act as brakes and not wear down your pads.

Thanks wes, I didn't know brake-hi was positive triggered. Figured they'd all be the same (ground is activating) but guess not.

I guess for those of us who want to use regen, taking the wire from brake-hi and moving it to pad X is a good idea if you don't want to drill a hole to put more leads through.

 

[Black6spdZ]

I'm also looking for a reverse if anyone finds it. I'm still at least a few days away from getting a test setup.

all wouldn't be lost if its not possible on this controller.. you could use two SPDT or a single DPDT relay to reverse two of your motor phase wires similar to this schem.

http://www.internationalmeccanomen.org.uk/MMB/MotorControl/MCdirectionsofrotationpart2a/fig24.gif

I would prefer a single relay solution because if one of the contacts stick using two SPDT relays you'd have an instant short on both your motor and controller.. bad things would happen I'm sure

just don't accidentally flip your reverse switch going down the road!

 

[John in CR]

If it's not regening, where is that power dissipated? It has to be turned into heat somewhere, and if is just essentially shorting the phase wires then it gets dissipated in the phase wires and windings which is going to be a real issue, since it's 100% not just one minus the efficiency %, the normal heat dissipation of the motor. Does this controller have real regen?

 

[wesnewell]

Does this controller have real regen?

According to black6spdz, you get regen when you ground the X pad in the controller. I haven't tried it yet, but if that's true, just need to run it through the ebrakes.

 

[Black6spdZ]

If it's not regening, where is that power dissipated? It has to be turned into heat somewhere, and if is just essentially shorting the phase wires then it gets dissipated in the phase wires and windings which is going to be a real issue, since it's 100% not just one minus the efficiency %, the normal heat dissipation of the motor. Does this controller have real regen?

I'm not sure this is even possible electrically to short the motor fields.. if the high and low side FETS conducted at the same time it would essentially be shorting out the power source in the controller. The regen is handled by outputting a voltage phase lag to what the motor is spinning at and the back EMF generates the voltage. As long as the BEMF is high enough a simple rectifier would be sufficent to recharge the battery.. but as the RPM slows and BEMF drops the controller uses PWM and the windings of the motor as inductors to boost the voltage.

 

[John in CR]

Regen would show up as increasing battery voltage when applied. From the sound of it what's going on is plug braking, essentially a shorting of the phase wires, and yes controllers can do that. It's an anti-theft security option in the program setup for the commonly used Infineon controllers. ie You turn your bike off and the phases are shorted, making it impossible to get on and pedal away.

 

[iovaykind]

He stated that the battery voltage went up when he applied regen didn't he?

 

[iovaykind]

So what's the way to test the difference between the wheel lock or regen?

 

[Black6spdZ]

I'm absolutely positive voltage increased when grounding pad X.. my resting voltage at the time test was about 70 volts, with the wheel spinning freely it was about 69 volts.. when I grounded X it shot up to 73 volts... possibly higher but the slow refresh of my old fluke dvm only caught 73v.

 

[wesnewell]

So what's the way to test the difference between the wheel lock or regen?

Wheel lock locks the wheel when activated and throttle doesn't work so you can't move the bike. This is the TB pad on Infinion controllers and called anti theft. Regen braking does not lock the wheel. It disengages once the speed has got to the point that it can no longer generate power. On the Infinion controller it is *enabled* by grounding the BK pad and then activated by the connections going to the ebrakes. I don't recall which pads these are on the Infinion, but they are a 2 pin blue and black wired connector coming from my Infinion controller. From what I read here, it appears that regen is already *enabled* on the Hua Tong and ground to the X pad activates it, which you would want to run through the ebrakes. When used you should notice a slight increase in voltage if you have a meter connected. The voltage increase should be in proportion to the battery pack voltage. IOW's if the pack is reading 72V, you may see just slightly more when regen braking is applied. But you should also see an increase if the pack voltage is 75V or higher, up to the voltage regen is set for.

 

[iovaykind]

Will regen braking also cut power to the throttle? If so then we don't need to worry about the e-brakes at all

 

[Black6spdZ]

Will regen braking also cut power to the throttle? If so then we don't need to worry about the e-brakes at all

yes, throttle has to be cut.. motor essentially turns into a generator and creates a load to the wheel slowing the bike.. ie a brake. easiest install would be to add a momentary switch to your brake lever so that when you first pull it the regen braking will start... if you need aditional braking power you squeeze harder using your mechanical pad brakes.. that simple.

 

[iovaykind]

I'm wondering if the throttle is automatically cut, aka does regen braking also cut power from the throttle? In which case we can get rid of the e-brake wire altogether

 

[wesnewell]

I'm wondering if the throttle is automatically cut, aka does regen braking also cut power from the throttle? In which case we can get rid of the e-brake wire altogether

Huh? If you mean not use the Brake-Hi wire, then yes, don't use it. But you still want to use your ebrakes don't you? Wire ground to one side and X pad to the other side. Then when you pull either brake handle regen braking starts.

 

[PeeHell]

Has anyone here got this controller working with a 9c motor ? Does the phase wire color match ? I know there a "guide" on this post but switching green and blue doesn't seems to work ...

 

[wesnewell]

Has anyone here got this controller working with a 9c motor ? Does the phase wire color match ? I know there a "guide" on this post but switching green and blue doesn't seems to work ...

Did you try both of these combos?

Hall:
Yellow Yellow
Green Blue
Blue Green

Phase:
Yellow Yellow
Green Blue
Blue Green

or

Hall:
Yellow Yellow
Green Blue
Blue Green

Phase:
Yellow Blue
Green Green
Blue Yellow

 

[PeeHell]

Yes I tried the first combo (blue & green swap) but the motor growl and doesn't start without a spin. I wonder if the second combo would work or if matching exactly the colors would work ?

 

[Black6spdZ]

before I rearanged the hall wires on mine.. originally it took swapping blue and green on both hall and phase wires to get it running correctly

 

[PeeHell]

before I rearanged the hall wires on mine.. originally it took swapping blue and green on both hall and phase wires to get it running correctly

Do you have a 9c motor ?

 

[Black6spdZ]

before I rearanged the hall wires on mine.. originally it took swapping blue and green on both hall and phase wires to get it running correctly

Do you have a 9c motor ?

as in 36v? I have a 48v 1kw motor

 

[PeeHell]

Ok so your motor isn't a Nine continent. When you guys are trying to get the proper combination, does the motor turn weirdly an doesn't start from dead stop until you get the good match ?

 

[kentlim26]

i think it will work well for 9c !.. hua tong has been running very good for cyclone 1200watts, and also my hub motor year i bought 2009, from conhismotor. i had recently bought another one, becos it perform so well run. i will be doing alot of test, hua tong 48v 2000watts + cyclone motor. the different 48v 2000watts is a 18fets. now i got 3 hua tong controller