72v 1500W 40A Hua Tong CA08 XM06AD_P04.1 controller

Thanks for the info :)

Edit: wait, 4410 or 4110's are inside?
 
4410
 
Wow I jumped over from another thread thanks to Wesnewell. I think I lost an hour ( rip van winkle ), but read all 9 pages. And thanks to Kentlim26 and the rest. Great work has any one tested on BMC ? Will need to read again lot's of infro.
 
just bought 2 of these tonight throught the dhgate link, thanks to all in this thread, ive realised i should beef up my drop outs now too.
 
There is 3-speed functionality as well as regen.

It involves jumping some of the pads on the board to ground.

I was playing with it for a bit, but didn't take the time to figure it out as the controller was for sale.

It should be fairly easy to figure it out as there is only about ~8 pads on the board.
 
Ill definitely be making use of the three speed capability. Even two speed would be great. Would a regular push button switch be good for two speed? In for slow and out for high?
 
Mine came with ring terminals for power and phase wires. Forgot the others. I just cut off and replaced the ones I used with the connectors I wanted anyway.
 
Iovaykind, did you recieve my PM about this controller?
 
Replied.

Gonna see if I can open up the controller today to work out the three speed switch. Is it simply grounding x1 vs x2 vs x3 to get the three different speed options?
 
Wow if you guys get the 3 speed switch to work that would mean this controller is a steal (32$) !
Does anyone has had any issues or negative experiences with it thus far ?
 
Decided to open my controller up and get some pics.. maybe we can brainstorm and find more advanced features of this unit.
15x IRFB4410 N-Channel MOSFETs
Drain to Source Voltage (Vdss) 100V
Current - Continuous Drain (Id) @ 25° C 96A
Rds On (Max) @ Id, Vgs 10 mOhm @ 58A, 10V
Power - Max 250W

1x 1000uF 100v Filter cap
2x 470uF 100v Filter caps

yellow/white stripe 60/120 phase wire lands on pad M4
brake wire lands on pad SH
cruise on pad ZL
speed sensor on pad SD

It appears the phase wires have been installed incorrectly, the motor phase outputs yellow, blue and green are installed on pads marked U,V and W where as the Hall phase wires blue lands on U pad, green on V and yellow on W.

my guess is the M1-M3 pads are speed and reverse functions.. I will experiment a little later
X and XL pad on topside regen?
 
Hi guys,
After your test, what are the maximum specifications of this controller?
I can go at 24s lipo (max 100,8v) 40a with this controller.
I would like to use it with my 48v1000w conhismotor.
You think its ok?

Sorry for my terrible english.
 
The controller has 100v caps so 24s fully charged may be pushing it. Though with voltage sag you should be alright, I wouldnt' try it myself but its such a cheap controller might be worth testing to see if it'd work.
 
Mine handles anything from 18-24s without a problem. At 24s with 1000W motor, the speed and power isn't for the weak of heart. At 24s the throttle gets touchy and takes a lot of practice to take off without jumping, but you get max speed with it.
 
for everyone with one of these controllers, do not stress the fets too much.

the fets are stamped fb4410 instead of irfb4410, so this tells me the fets are fake

which is not really suprising considdering the cost of the controller

(i also have one btw)
 
the hua tong 72v 1500watts is it only really 15fets ?

i think im quite happy to stay with 48v 2000watts on the cyclone motor. the torque is very good and pick in 50km/h in just few seconds. the 48v 2000watts is a 18fets, i don't know if the fets are real or fake. if this thing, hua tong can let me run more then 5500km, i can say this controller better then the Orginal cyclone controller 1200watts. so i don't know, i have to run controller 48v 2000watts as far as i can. to find out how reliable is it.
for not more then 5000km , i have run and blow afew cyclone controller. They were orginal and expensive, 2 or 3times the cost of hua tong. sure i can't survive like that,, ha ha. so i have to test them and see the result and find out.
 
nieles said:
for everyone with one of these controllers, do not stress the fets too much.

the fets are stamped fb4410 instead of irfb4410, so this tells me the fets are fake

which is not really suprising considdering the cost of the controller

(i also have one btw)

Correct me if my calculations are wrong, but I measured 0.3 ohms between each of my phase windings on my 48v 1000w motor. So if your supply was a consistent 72v / 0.3 ohms the max current between each phase would be 240 amps. If this current was shared between 5 Fets such as this controller each would have to carry 48 amps.. well within a 96A tolerance... and thats if the power was held on 100%.. but it is pulsed and modulated so never would see that amount of current.. besides the controller will power down the motor if it detects its stalled anyway.
 
nieles said:
for everyone with one of these controllers, do not stress the fets too much.

the fets are stamped fb4410 instead of irfb4410, so this tells me the fets are fake

which is not really suprising considdering the cost of the controller

(i also have one btw)
They aren't fake, otherwise they wouldn't work. Check the International Rectifier website and you will find that IR is not part of the part number stamped on parts. Are these made by IR? Don't know. Don't care. Didn't look close enough. Wait, I've got one open.... Why yes they are The IR logo is below the part number. Not that it makes a bit of difference. They could still be fake.:)
 
According to the datasheets still, they can handle 380 amps with a pulsewidth of 20% as long as you keep the junction temp lower than 175d C. With active cooling I think the controller would long outlive the motor windings!
 
Well as they are cheap, you may as well try 24S just for the fun of it, but I gess both FETs and caps won't that long on that high voltage. Even if you charge your LiPos to 4.1V you'll be still dangerously close to max rated voltage for both components.

BTW, just ordered one :mrgreen:
 
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