72v 1500W 40A Hua Tong CA08 XM06AD_P04.1 controller

[iovaykind]

It is, it'll work.

 

[Rumberopie]

Fine!!!

 

[John in CR]

Hi,
This controller work with magura throttle?

Magura is a 5kohm pot throttle. Yes it can imitate the hall throttle this controller expects, so you'll have to tune the Magura to put out the 0-5v with good resolution. Do a search on the forum for how to do that, a relatively simple process.

 

[The Mighty Volt]

greasypants already did it for his ebike build, I don't want to copy his manual out here, but it involved a simple controller mod to the best of my knowledge.

 

[iovaykind]

About to wire up all my connections for my ebike and want to confirm this last thing that's holding me back:

If I connect regen to my controller and ground it, it regens, and the throttle is also disabled correct? I don't need to also engage brake hi for regen to work?

 

[wesnewell]

No, you don't need brake-hi. However, if your battery voltage is too high, regen braking won't work. It will just disable power to the motor.

 

[The Mighty Volt]

I might open up the 48v controller that came with my moped motor and show a few photos and get opinion. Is this OK with everyone??

 

[Black6spdZ]

About to wire up all my connections for my ebike and want to confirm this last thing that's holding me back:

If I connect regen to my controller and ground it, it regens, and the throttle is also disabled correct? I don't need to also engage brake hi for regen to work?

yes.. to regen it has to slow the motor.. cant accelerate at the same time

 

[The Mighty Volt]

Did anyone positively identify the location for wiring up a CA-DP lead?

If this thing can do a CA-DP and a 3-Speed Throttle I think I will buy one and replace the FET's and run it at 72v with my X5303.

I will use the CA and the 3 Speed to keep the Amps down.

Should be a good economical option, no?

 

[The Mighty Volt]

Will regen braking also cut power to the throttle? If so then we don't need to worry about the e-brakes at all

yes, throttle has to be cut.. motor essentially turns into a generator and creates a load to the wheel slowing the bike.. ie a brake. easiest install would be to add a momentary switch to your brake lever so that when you first pull it the regen braking will start... if you need aditional braking power you squeeze harder using your mechanical pad brakes.. that simple.

What's the simplest way to set up a momentary switch? Thanks.

 

[iovaykind]

What's the simplest way to set up a momentary switch? Thanks.

Buying brakes that already have the switch built in. If you have hydraulic brakes, you're out of luck and will need to make your own switch.

 

[The Mighty Volt]

What's the simplest way to set up a momentary switch? Thanks.

Buying brakes that already have the switch built in. If you have hydraulic brakes, you're out of luck and will need to make your own switch.

What about those brakes that come with the cheapo generic chinese kits??

You know the sort, they have a regular brake attachment and then two little wires.....

 

[iovaykind]

Yeah those work fine.

 

[The Mighty Volt]

Yeah those work fine.

Cheers!!

 

[iovaykind]

Blew some mosfets Anyone know how I can test which ones are blown? If not, I might just upgrade to 4110 mosfets (what kind of improvements would I see?)

 

[The Mighty Volt]

Sorry to hear about your accident. Can you provide any tech data about your system, or how else you might have blown them???

The IR4110 Mosfet specifically runs cooler, don't quote me on this but it has a lower-resistance and so produces less heat.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10655

Methods speaks thus:

Manufactuer Name: IRFB4110PBF
Datasheet: IRFB4110 Datasheet

VDSS = 100V
RDS(ON) = 3.7mOhms (typ) 4.5mOhms (max)
ID = 180A (silicon) 120A (package)

So what does all that mean?
Above are the three most important terms.
Translated to shop talk they are:

Max Voltage = 100V
Inline resistance = 3.7mOhms
Max Current = 120A

The RDS(ON) is perhaps the most critical factor.
Heat is the limiting factor in our application and the heat can be calculated in terms of I and R

I^2 * R

I is the current that you are driving through the mosfet
R is the internal resistance.
This shows you that if the internal resistance doubles the heat doubles

Example: I = 100A R=3mOhms

100 * 100 * 0.003 = 30W

 

[iovaykind]

Ha, I just read that thread. Anyway, I blew it because the "alarm" full power voltage touched the ground wire of the voltmeter by accident and there was a huge spark. Now nothing works. The controller still gets the full voltage, however the throttle doesn't work anymore. And after some diagnosing, I had the same symptoms as someone else and they had to replace their mosfets to remedy the issue.

 

[The Mighty Volt]

Ha, I just read that thread. Anyway, I blew it because the "alarm" full power voltage touched the ground wire of the voltmeter by accident and there was a huge spark. Now nothing works. The controller still gets the full voltage, however the throttle doesn't work anymore. And after some diagnosing, I had the same symptoms as someone else and they had to replace their mosfets to remedy the issue.

So you had a wiring accident, basically? It didn't fail under load or under speed???

I once let the throttle wire of a "hot" Lyen controller hit the body.

There was a spark...but everything works still,....even though there is a tiny tiny crater in the face of the controller.

 

[iovaykind]

Doesn't work anymore. And yeah it was a wiring accident, though it happened while I was at half throttle. That's part of the symptoms of the blown fet and not something else.

 

[The Mighty Volt]

Okay sorry to hear that. Maybe we need to just snip off all the dodgy wires and insulate them to prevent these accidents.

 

[Black6spdZ]

Doesn't work anymore. And yeah it was a wiring accident, though it happened while I was at half throttle. That's part of the symptoms of the blown fet and not something else.

have you looked inside yet? my fears would be that a ground trace burned inside then backfed full pack voltage through ALL the low voltage 5v circuitry

 

[bobale]

Well at least it was cheap. That's the main reason why I bought mine.

When we're talking about controller, have any of you compared acceleration of stock 20-22A controller with HuaTong? Mine arrived yesterday, and because I don't have enough LiPo yet, I connected 24V SLA in series with 14S LiPo, but acceleration was the same as with stock controller.

Could it be that SLA's sag a lot under that much current? They are few years old, I must say, and they weren't topped up, but I expected a bit more from twice the current and almost 50% more voltage.

 

[The Mighty Volt]

Well at least it was cheap. That's the main reason why I bought mine.

When we're talking about controller, have any of you compared acceleration of stock 20-22A controller with HuaTong? Mine arrived yesterday, and because I don't have enough LiPo yet, I connected 24V SLA in series with 14S LiPo, but acceleration was the same as with stock controller.

Could it be that SLA's sag a lot under that much current? They are few years old, I must say, and they weren't topped up, but I expected a bit more from twice the current and almost 50% more voltage.

Kind of hard to say, with variables like that, first off we don't know how good your SLA is and then it's hard to guess-timate what effect SLA might have when combined with LiPo.

 

[iovaykind]

Doesn't work anymore. And yeah it was a wiring accident, though it happened while I was at half throttle. That's part of the symptoms of the blown fet and not something else.

have you looked inside yet? my fears would be that a ground trace burned inside then backfed full pack voltage through ALL the low voltage 5v circuitry

I've opened it up, not a thing that looks out of place or burnt or anything. I'm almost certain its one or a few of the fets that have blown. Ordered another controller so I'm going to see if there's a way to figure out which fets are blown and replace them. If not, I'll have to resolder all my custom leads again which took a lot of time and effort..

 

[wesnewell]

When we're talking about controller, have any of you compared acceleration of stock 20-22A controller with HuaTong? Mine arrived yesterday, and because I don't have enough LiPo yet, I connected 24V SLA in series with 14S LiPo, but acceleration was the same as with stock controller.

I couldn't tell a lot of difference between 14s on 30A controller and 20s on the 40A controller, but with 24s, it's very noticeable.