72v 1500W 40A Hua Tong CA08 XM06AD_P04.1 controller

Wonder if anyone has hooked up a CA to this controller to make sure the specifications are as they state. Wouldn't surprise me if it was underpowered and didn't put out spec.
 
wesnewell said:
I couldn't tell a lot of difference between 14s on 30A controller and 20s on the 40A controller, but with 24s, it's very noticeable.
Thanks, that's exactly what I wouldn't want to hear. 20s and 40A should be twice the power, I expected it to feel that way. Bummer.
 
bobale said:
wesnewell said:
I couldn't tell a lot of difference between 14s on 30A controller and 20s on the 40A controller, but with 24s, it's very noticeable.
Thanks, that's exactly what I wouldn't want to hear. 20s and 40A should be twice the power, I expected it to feel that way. Bummer.
Well, it's not to say it wasn't noticeable, just that at 24s, it's very noticeable. So much so that it takes a light thumb to keep it from jumping on you. 20s is a lot smoother. Although wiring ground to the SX pad changes the way the throttle works so it's smooth with 24s too, but limits top end.
 
I know the site is a bit unforgiving at the moment, but I would be most grateful to anyone who could upload some more photos of the insides of this thing, and, specifically, show me where the CA would be wired in.

Many thanks. :D
 
iovaykind said:
This controller is 15 fet

Oh. I thought my shitty controller was 15 Fet, It looks a lot shorter than that one.


I know that icecube57 has enjoyed success with a 12 Fet and an X5303 at amperages approaching, if not at, 60A.

Replace the FET's to 4110's and it should be OK.
 
Lots of pictures in this thread.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=26306&hilit=changing+lvc
 
wesnewell said:
Well, it's not to say it wasn't noticeable, just that at 24s, it's very noticeable. So much so that it takes a light thumb to keep it from jumping on you. 20s is a lot smoother.
That's what I want, a feeling of "endless" power when you even so much as touch the throttle :).

PeeHell said:
If twelve 4110 do the job for 60A, those fifteen 4410 should do the job too... ?
Well, it's questionable. Controller is so cheap, I'm not sure are those 4410's original or cheap copies. But I'll give it a shot anyway, just have to wait for my Turnigy Wattmeter to arrive. Certainly 50 or so amps burst shouldn't do any harm. And if it does - the hell with it, it was cheap anyway :).
 
Well, it's questionable. Controller is so cheap, I'm not sure are those 4410's original or cheap copies. But I'll give it a shot anyway, just have to wait for my Turnigy Wattmeter to arrive. Certainly 50 or so amps burst shouldn't do any harm. And if it does - the hell with it, it was cheap anyway :).

you know the Turnigy / GT Power watt meters only work up to 60v right?
 
Sure, I'll wire it somewhere in the middle of the pack so I can get amp reading, which is all I need for this test :).
 
Another two 4S hard pack arrived today, so I could finally try out this controller. I tried it with 22S charged to 4.1V. Acelleration is, let say... really nice :D. On a top speed run managed about 44mph on level ground, but think there are few more mph to eek out (ran out of road and balls :D). And yes, throttle application is really jerky, but it does give sense that there is a lot of power under your thumb.

Now, what I noticed is some cutting out at around 40mph. It's behaviour was the same as when hitting LVC, but battery voltage was well over LVC, so could anybody hazard a guess at what could be the problem? I kept it WOT, it stopped stuttering and continued accelerating above 40mph. It did the same thing on both top speed runs.

Another thing I noticed is that controller was only mildly warm after many WOT acceleration runs from stand still. So I guess there is some room for modding shunt?
 
bobale said:
Another two 4S hard pack arrived today, so I could finally try out this controller. I tried it with 22S charged to 4.1V. Acelleration is, let say... really nice :D. On a top speed run managed about 44mph on level ground, but think there are few more mph to eek out (ran out of road and balls :D). And yes, throttle application is really jerky, but it does give sense that there is a lot of power under your thumb.

Now, what I noticed is some cutting out at around 40mph. It's behaviour was the same as when hitting LVC, but battery voltage was well over LVC, so could anybody hazard a guess at what could be the problem? I kept it WOT, it stopped stuttering and continued accelerating above 40mph. It did the same thing on both top speed runs.

Another thing I noticed is that controller was only mildly warm after many WOT acceleration runs from stand still. So I guess there is some room for modding shunt?

What motor are you running? Did you have a CA or anything hooked up to see what your peak Amps were? Cheers.
 
2809 9C motor, as my signature says. Unfortunately my wattmeter hasn't arrived yet, so I have no idea how many amps I was pulling. A lot I would say, because the same wiring on 14S and 30A didn't even break sweat, while on 22S and this controller (40A rated) was heating up really badly.
 
Well, first of all I need to see how it handles regen braking because my brakes are hopelessly inadequate. When I mentioned regen, anybody actually tried riding with it? I mean, does it work as on Infineon controllers, that is under 12mph you get full regen power when you activate e-brake, and above that speed you can vary it with the throttle?
 
Above 20kph (~12mph) you can vary the amount of regen by applying the throttle while holding the e-brake. It's really usefull for longer downhill sections when you want to slow down just a tad, or when you want to really slow down for a turn. This feature is available on sensored controllers only.
 
I tried the regen brake this week and let me tell you it really slow you down quick. I didn't try the throttle trick tho. I unsoldered the brake wires to solder it on the X pad and ground. I haven't tried with the stock brake plug. I think it regens less.
 
If I understood well, stock brake plug only cuts power and cruise control, it doesn't activate regen.
 
A notice for those interested in buying HuaTong:



Those newer controllers which are made after august 2011. have 4710 instead of 4410 FETs. And yes, 4710 are worse than 4410. Those 4710 are rated at 75A (instead of 100A) and have even worse RDS On (14mOhm).

 
bobale said:
A notice for those interested in buying HuaTong:



Those newer controllers which are made after august 2011. have 4710 instead of 4410 FETs. And yes, 4710 are worse than 4410. Those 4710 are rated at 75A (instead of 100A) and have even worse RDS On (14mOhm).


Thanks for the update. I wasn't going to use the stock FET's in any case. It doesn't surprise me that there is no uniformity amongst these models. It does seem to be a particularly well established modus operandi with the Chinese....you lays down your money and you takes your chances. Sometimes you luck out, other times you don't.

My only remaining issue with buying these is using a cycle analyst on them.

The CAPS and FET's can all be replaced with a greater or lesser degree of effort.
 
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