A kit for commuting with 'future proofing' in mind

In November I bought almost exactly the kit you listed

10T MAC 500W motor
9 fet controller
52V (48V) 11.5Ah triangle A123 Pack + Cell-Man supplied charger
full twist throttle and ebrakes

Installed on a 1996 Gary Fisher hard-tail.

It came with no wiring diagram, so I had to do a plug-and-play and hope it would work out. It works and it is fast.
Best to have Paul supply it with a seven speed gear cluster unless you are sure yours will fit. Mine did not, and I had to buy one at the bike shop. I now have a 12 tooth on order with Paul. Live and learn.
Plugging everything in (only one way to do so, because he supplies all the connectors installed), I discovered that power is on all the time. There is a kill loop that if unplugged shuts the battery off, so I installed a 48v boat switch on the handle bar to kill power. That was fine if I remembered that I had left it on. No idiot lights means idiots forget to switch off.

The full twist throttle comes with a green button that activates the cruise and a red button with a [I O II] on it that somewhat counter intuitively gives three settings for power (50% 75% 100% - programmable as low as 30%).
It comes with two brake cutoff handles but only one plugs in. I spliced the second brake in. The brake motor cutoffs are a safety feature as well as they cut load to the motor which does not need more resistance.

I strongly recommend against the full twist throttle, which I ordered. This evening, I was moving the bikes inside in case of rain, and naturally put my hands on the handlebars to move the bike. I had forgotten to turn the boat switch off (and there are no LED indicator lights to show that there is power), and in a split-second the bike did a full wheelie, flipping over, breaking mirrors and popping the handle off the throttle, springs flying and damaging the throttle's performance. I found the throttle spring in the bottom of my shoe's rubber sole; good thing I was not barefoot. And, with the throttle handle popped off, the motor did not shut off but kept turning at full speed. I had to grab the rear-brake cutoff to stop it (after a couple seconds of shock, since this was totally unexpected behaviour... more typical of a horse than a mechanical device) and then reached for the boat switch to cut power.

The wheelie damaged the full grip so I took a spare, new Wuxing PTT01 thumb throttle that has LED lights when there is power and a red button that I wired in to shut off power (the LED lights become idiot lights just like in a car when the key is on). I also have a half-grip on order and will see if I like that better.

The problem with the full sized twist grip is that it does two things... power and also passive hand grip. If you intend to use a passive hand grip while not on the bike, but just moving it around (or someone else does so) and the motor has power, you will start the motor. As soon as it pulls away, your hand, just holding on (and not expecting this) turns the motor to full throttle and the motor is powerful. It left black skid marks on the concrete. The other problem is that the reminder to turn off the power - a simple LED switch, is not part of the kit that Cell Man sends if you order the full or half twist throttles. If there was a light, one would have an extra reminder to turn off power.

So, my recommendation is to order the thumb throttle and make sure the LED lights are wired. And, if you are an ebike dealer in litigation-happy USA, never sell a full grip throttle unless it has some sort of safety device like a seat sensor that assures the rider is mounted when the throttle is turned. Otherwise, it is a lawsuit waiting to happen.

Other than that minor matter, expect serious speed, and change your riding habits accordingly. Deck the bike out with flashing white and red lights to help drivers see you and be aware of the extra speed. Make sure your brakes are up to the speed (and extra weight). Tell Paul what conditions you expect (we have steep hills, so I needed more torque) and he will make appropriate recommendations and settings. Asking him to send a wiring diagram or post one like Steven Deng's http://elifebike.com/upfile/dtpic/2010/9W/9UJ7.992VA/7UR9T0_KNFD8.pdf.

Paul is in China, but is English, which is exceptionally helpful. He got my kit out promptly and with no fuss.

Enjoy!
 
Thumb throttles break off the tab, you'll see. The bike will be safe any time you have it turned off. Maybe you should mount a light to warn you it's still on.

I've done the same thing, left a bike plugged in and killed the battery. :roll: Gotta develop set in stone habits to prevent that happening.

Half twist the best, full twist the worst.
 
Hi Greenspark,

thanks heaps for sharing your experience, knowledge and advice. I am sorry to hear about your bike getting damaged and hope for a speedy recovery with a different throttle.. i would have been shocked too.

I will definitely chase up the 7 speed freewheel with Cell_man. They are certainly not that common in the 11t ratio in the local bike shops. I was wondering where to get a keyed power switch from.. Didn't think of a boat part. Thanks again.. After reading your experience, I might put the power switch and a power indicator light in that circuit (also great advice.. cheers) . Thus when the switch is ON, so is the light.. really keen people with some basic knowledge of relays (like that used on car lights) could actually wire in a magnetic reed switch, which in turn closed the power circuit via a the relay. Thus having the safety cutout much like a treadmill, using a magnet and velcro.

The red 3 position switch that you mentioned was (from what i have read) supposed to be a 3 speed switch.. I think its purpose was to limit the throttle for example to say half or quater throttle limit.. etc. So if set to half, then a full twist of the throttle would result in only half power. That was what i thought from my reading. And the brake cutoffs were a must for people using cruise control so as to be able to turn cruise off, just like a car. Could also be handy in the case of a throttle being faulty and stuck on i would imagine..

I would expect Cell_man would certainly have a huge backlog of emails to deal with after a month off. He is popular too, and when i take a week off work, i always get a shock at how large my inbox gets when i return.. I would hate to imagine his inbox. I will wait patiently though, as his reputation of good, after-sales service is certainly worth the wait... That and his motors seem to have impressed many people on this forum..

Wiring diagram of the kit would also be a great help, but you mentioned that all the wires had plugs? Does that mean unique plugs, so that only the correct connections would fit each other?

Hopefully that is how it is, as that was defintiely one of the reasons i wanted to get 'all' the electrical parts from him.

Ahhh .. Dogman.. you beat me.. hahahhaha I was so slow in typing my reply that you got in first.. lol.

Anyway, thanks again greenspark.. I do plan on trying out the half twist though (mind is set on it.) , but will take the necessary precautions that you mentioned, and hopefully learn from your experience.

Much appreciated..

Tuna..
 
greenspark said:
The full twist throttle comes with a green button that activates the cruise and a red button with a [I O II] on it that seems to do nothing at all. I would have assumed this was the power off switch.
That should be a 3-speed switch if the controller has that enabled; it would typically adjust either the current limit in the controller or the throttle range, or both, depending on how the controller is designed.

It comes with two brake cutoff handles but only one plugs in. I have sent Paul (Cell Man) an email asking for the wiring diagram before I splice the second brake in.
Direct parallel connections are how all the brake levers I have worked with are designed, but for hall-type (3-wire) brake levers you could install a small 500ohm-1kohm resistor in series with the brake output line on each lever if you wish to isolate the halls from each other.

brake lever hall output----resistor---->controller brake input
brake lever hall output----resistor----^


I emailed Paul (Cell Man) to ask if I could use a 24 V PTT01 I have
Yes, but you would have to leave the battery gauge wire disconnected, as it isn't set up to deal with the higher voltage battery you have on there. The rest of it should be the same (though the wire colors or order might be different). You could modify it to monitor the higher voltage battery, but you would need to reverse-engineer the voltage divider circuit(s) so it correctly lights the LEDs for the battery's full and low conditions.
 
Awesome, cell_man is back in operation!

Guess he´s got a lot of correspondence to do, so I´ll stick my question here.
Is the 9 fet infineon controller that cell_man is selling able to connect to a computer for easy manipulation of parameters?

Searched and havn´t found.
 
I cant comment really on the 9 fet, but Cell_man's last email to me did mention that I could program the 12 fet, to limit its current level, using a programming cable that he stocks and sells.

I hope that helps.. Anyone here know about the 9 fet?

I assumed it would be the same..

cheers,

Tuna
 
Hey hoe!

Kit is on it´s way and battery being assembled.

Now, for the housing of the battery. Been checking around and saw loads of nice setups using fibreglass. Looks nice, but here in Sweden they are prown to steel batteries sitting on the bike. As for easy dissmounting of the battery, backpack must be ideal. Anyone riding around with the battery in a backpack who can tell if it messes up the weightbalance completely?

Have a nice new years eve!
 
Some people try the backpack battery thing. I wouldn't recomend it though. Too many risks. Its better to get a rear rack with a detachable bag to hold the battery in.

But you can "try" the backpack battery for your self. take enough bricks/bags of sugar/beer to equil the weight of the battery and stick them in a backpack. then tie a rope from the backpack to your bike seat to simulate the wires. try riding it around for a while. If it doesn't anoy you to the point where you want to trow it under a bus, then it might work for you.
 
Awesome Wick..

I got mine ordered too.. I gave the whole backpack idea some thought due to wanting stealth look, but then pretty much imagined what it would be like, and canned that idea.. Drunkskunk's advice of giving it a pretend run with weight and rope connection is a great idea.. you would be attached to the bike, would have to disconnect everytime.. without even considering the weight, the fact that i am connected to the bike via a wire was enough to not go down that path.. I ended up getting a triangle bag from cell_man..

That will keep the weight centralised in the frame, and I got a safe lockup area for my bike at work, without the worry of the battery gettting stolen. If I had to remove the battery from my bike everyday (due to it not being somewhere secure and safe), then I would certainly be going downt he path of rear rack with removable bag... and hopefully a removeable bag with a shoulder strap(s)..

Anyway, the status of my build now is that I have some parts, and awating delivery of the rest.. I am actually glad to take my time, as each day i read the forum, I see another valuable lesson / gotchya that would save me later..


Parts recieved or pre owned:

Giant Rincon (around 2005 model i think)
Rear brake disk rotor with bolts (want to keep my existing rotor on the old wheel in case i ever have to put it back in a hurry)
rotor spacers - 1mm and a 2mm so total of 3mm spacing
Cycle Analyst (definitely going to limit my current seeing that i am using the 12 Fet)
Gear shifters (to replace my combined brake and shifter combos.. so i can use the e-brake cutout levers)
DC to DC convertor (for lights etc..)
Maxi Fuse Holder
30A Maxi Fuse ( i also got a 40A, not sure what size to use yet)


Parts Ordered & Waiting to receive:

home made torque arms
controller kill switch
key turn battery isolater
8T motor in a 26" DH19 rim
12 fet 4011 Controller (overkill for my needs, but for the extra few dollars, and with the ability to set safety limits, why not..)
52V A123 Triangle Battery with Triangle Frame Bag
6A Charger
7 Speed 11T freewheel
Half twist throttle
E-bike controller, motor, and Hall tester
Slime Smart 26" Schrader Valve Mountain Bike Tube

Anyway, keep us informed of how you go Wick, and good luck with it...

I am hoping to be able to mount my controller behind / under my seat on the seat tube,, If that works out, things will be perfect..

have a Happy New Year to everyone too..

Cheers,

Tuna.
 
Aweswome Tuna! Let´s us all hope the customs arn´t looking.

Have actually managed to try an ebike with backpack the other day. A friend of mine got his kit a year ago. It was a lot better than I thought. As long as I´m using anderson-connections, a backpack is fine. At least for now. Also, it gives great isolation for the battery in our subarctic climate.

Just so you know, if polarbears get the chance, they will hang out in the sun, eating watermellons.
 
That goes the same for the kangaroos in my front yard.. lol. (which we do actually have in Canberra)

I am hoping that my triangle bag will also insulate my battery in sub zero temps here in winter.. glad your test run went well with the back pack.. I wouldnt have thought it would have been very comfortable, but the conveneince, ease of setup, plus stealth would have to be a real plus..

Didn't think of the customs charges.. Not sure what kind of taxes are relevant here is Aus.. Hopefully nothing..

I gathered my tools for making some torque arms, so will get onto that over the next few weeks, and am looking for a suitable push button switch (with a lit up button if possible) to use as a kill switch on my handle bars and to also let me know when things are live..

What are you using for torque arms?

Anyone have a suggestion of a suitbale push button kill switch, (to switch the on off wires of the controller) where the button lights up when the controller is ON?

CHeers,

TUna.
 
Wick said:
Awesome, cell_man is back in operation!

Guess he´s got a lot of correspondence to do, so I´ll stick my question here.
Is the 9 fet infineon controller that cell_man is selling able to connect to a computer for easy manipulation of parameters?

Searched and havn´t found.

YES. Just pay an extra $10 for the programming cable.
 
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