A123 AMP20 cell diagnostics

Thanks so much for the info.

I have spent a lot of time using and testing A123 cells on my ebikes.

I was real bummed when I thought they were going under.

Your posts give me hope that we will be able to get these great cells in the future.

It was not easy for me to find real A123 cells. Dewalt packs were the only sure way I knew to get them.

They show up in the E.S. online forum sometimes too and I was able to get some there. :D

Love the real deal A123 cells ! :)
 
wb9k said:
The impedance measurement I'm referring to is the AC impedance--nominally taken at 1 kHz, but other freqs can be useful too. The "cheap" tool we use around here for that....
Thanks for the description of impedance measurement. I stay on the low-expense side of things, so fancy gizmos are out of the question. So I'll not be taking any measurements that will be up to snuff to satisfy anyone but myself. I'll just be looking for abnormal results from my own low-cost tool set. In particular, when a cell goes wacko as we've been discussing.
 
arkmundi said:
wb9k said:
The impedance measurement I'm referring to is the AC impedance--nominally taken at 1 kHz, but other freqs can be useful too. The "cheap" tool we use around here for that....
Thanks for the description of impedance measurement. I stay on the low-expense side of things, so fancy gizmos are out of the question. So I'll not be taking any measurements that will be up to snuff to satisfy anyone but myself. I'll just be looking for abnormal results from my own low-cost tool set. In particular, when a cell goes wacko as we've been discussing.

"Sticks and rocks" techniques and equipment can get a typical end-user most of the what they need in terms of figuring out if something is significantly wrong with a cell or pack. A solid understanding of Ohm's law is half the battle. Many of us here in the office have been very impressed with the degree of accuracy and features in the Cell Log 8s. For $30, that device is VERY powerful and useful. The problem with it is that it's not super robust. To have high confidence in what my cheap gear tells me, I check it periodically against gear of known quality and stability, like a Fluke DMM or some such. So even if you rely mostly on cheap measurement equipment, it's very desireable to have one nice "reference" meter (whether actually yours or not) those devices can be verified against.

The other hard part with battery tests is knowing the exact details of how a cell should be prepped for test, what the operating principles of the test setup should be, and when the test is over. IOW, getting your hands on test specs.

dh
 
:!: :!: :!: :shock: :shock:
you actually work at Livonia!!!!!! my god man... send us some cells!!!!! who needs victpower!!

wb9k said:
arkmundi said:
wb9k said:
The impedance measurement I'm referring to is the AC impedance--nominally taken at 1 kHz, but other freqs can be useful too. The "cheap" tool we use around here for that....
Thanks for the description of impedance measurement. I stay on the low-expense side of things, so fancy gizmos are out of the question. So I'll not be taking any measurements that will be up to snuff to satisfy anyone but myself. I'll just be looking for abnormal results from my own low-cost tool set. In particular, when a cell goes wacko as we've been discussing.

"Sticks and rocks" techniques and equipment can get a typical end-user most of the what they need in terms of figuring out if something is significantly wrong with a cell or pack. A solid understanding of Ohm's law is half the battle. Many of us here in the office have been very impressed with the degree of accuracy and features in the Cell Log 8s. For $30, that device is VERY powerful and useful. The problem with it is that it's not super robust. To have high confidence in what my cheap gear tells me, I check it periodically against gear of known quality and stability, like a Fluke DMM or some such. So even if you rely mostly on cheap measurement equipment, it's very desireable to have one nice "reference" meter (whether actually yours or not) those devices can be verified against.

The other hard part with battery tests is knowing the exact details of how a cell should be prepped for test, what the operating principles of the test setup should be, and when the test is over. IOW, getting your hands on test specs.

dh
 
lionschasing said:
:!: :!: :!: :shock: :shock:
you actually work at Livonia!!!!!! my god man... send us some cells!!!!! who needs victpower!!
I'm working on a number of possibilities to that effect. Takes time......

dh
 
lionschasing said:
you actually work at Livonia!!!!!! my god man... send us some cells!!!!! who needs victpower!!
Whoa boy, slow down there please. A123 prior to its purchase by the Wanxiang group was an under-capitalized startup caught by the recession. The reorg is in process and company stability is under way. First priority will be in meeting the demands of current large-scale customers, like Fisker. The factory seconds market for LEV battery makers will be low on the list of priorities. Nonetheless, it never hurts to ask. :mrgreen:
 
arkmundi said:
lionschasing said:
you actually work at Livonia!!!!!! my god man... send us some cells!!!!! who needs victpower!!
Whoa boy, slow down there please. A123 prior to its purchase by the Wanxiang group was an under-capitalized startup caught by the recession. The reorg is in process and company stability is under way. First priority will be in meeting the demands of current large-scale customers, like Fisker. The factory seconds market for LEV battery makers will be low on the list of priorities. Nonetheless, it never hurts to ask. :mrgreen:

#1 biggest selling ev is the electric bicycle.
 
Just FYI, the automotive group is focused primarily on supporting GM (Chevy Spark), a few previously existing customers, and a plethora of burgeoning starter battery and micro-hybrid customers. We do have one or two guys who are doing Fisker field service, but I know of no plans to build anything for Fisker ever again. I'm only mildly optimistic about Fisker being revived at all. Time will tell.

dh
 
wb9k - Thank you very much for all your valuable input to this forum.

Now I have a follow-up question for you about the A123 20ah cell's Internal Resistance values. I was always wondering what were considered "good" IR values for these cells. I have the Thunder 1220 which measures the IR values of my 12s pack during the charge cycle. Recently, I got a total pack IR value of 43.6mO at the start of the charge cycle and then the value dropped to 21.8mO at the completion of the cycle at 42.97v. I did not record the individual cell IR values. The pack had been discharged at that time by about 13ah. I set the individual cell voltage to charge to 3.65v but have dropped that to 3.60v based on your advice. I don't know how to interpret these IR values given that your A123 cell spec is 0.3mO.

Back on April 3rd, I recorded these values at the end of my charge cycle: 43.7v & 30.5mO pack values; avg 3.637v. & actual cell IR at 2.9, 2.6, 3.3, 2.3, 2.3, 1.9, 1.6, 2.9, 2.9, 1.9, 3.6, 2.3. The IR values seem to always be changing from charge to charge. On June 19th, I got pack values of 43.61v & 40.1mO.

What do you make of these values? Thanks again.
 
RayGo said:
wb9k - Thank you very much for all your valuable input to this forum.

Now I have a follow-up question for you about the A123 20ah cell's Internal Resistance values. I was always wondering what were considered "good" IR values for these cells. I have the Thunder 1220 which measures the IR values of my 12s pack during the charge cycle. Recently, I got a total pack IR value of 43.6mO at the start of the charge cycle and then the value dropped to 21.8mO at the completion of the cycle at 42.97v. I did not record the individual cell IR values. The pack had been discharged at that time by about 13ah. I set the individual cell voltage to charge to 3.65v but have dropped that to 3.60v based on your advice. I don't know how to interpret these IR values given that your A123 cell spec is 0.3mO.

Back on April 3rd, I recorded these values at the end of my charge cycle: 43.7v & 30.5mO pack values; avg 3.637v. & actual cell IR at 2.9, 2.6, 3.3, 2.3, 2.3, 1.9, 1.6, 2.9, 2.9, 1.9, 3.6, 2.3. The IR values seem to always be changing from charge to charge. On June 19th, I got pack values of 43.61v & 40.1mO.

What do you make of these values? Thanks again.

Hi RayGo,

The answer to many of your questions is in my earlier post (end of second page), particularly this bit: "Impedance is dynamic not only with regard to temperature, but also with C rate and SOC. Meaningful apples-to-apples comparisons dictate that all measurements be taken at the same temperature (ambient and actual cell temp), SOC--nominally 50%, and C-rate--nominally 1C." So, if you're not taking a good deal of care to make sure you're measuring under the same conditions every time, you should expect variation in your numbers. I see nothing terribly amiss in any of the numbers you report here. Do re-read the post I quoted from here, because you seem to have misunderstood a few other things. For starters, A123's spec is 3 mOhms, not 0.3. That's a typical measurement for a brand new 20 Ah cell USING AN AC mILLIOHMMETER, which is a totally different test from what we're talking about here. So let's clarify the test we are talking about now.

I'll describe a test we used for warranty service on modules from a large vehicle pack. I like this test better than other methods that are more common because I think it gives a more meaningful indication of what's going on with pack and cell health, which is what your concern should be. The modules were 26650 cells in 12S8P, for a nominal rating of 40V and 18.2 Ah. The total test included a charge and balance, capacity test, and simulated drive cycle test. But before all that comes an impedance test. All of the following is important:

1) The module must have been at rest in an evironment held at room temperature for a minimum of 24 hours prior to testing. No charging or discharging allowed AT ALL immediately prior to the IR test. If stored below ~68F or above 80F, the results of the test are not valid "hard" numbers (though, significantly, the rest of the test is valid under those conditions. In other words, actual module performance trumps the single number IR result at the beginning of the test. We get our "hard" IR number at a later test anyway; this measurement I like so well is really just for our reference--but it's very useful.)

2) The module must be between roughly 30 and 70% SOC. If SOC is too low or too high, the Voltage moves too quickly wrt to SOC, invalidating the results of the test. Notice that this concept basically invalidates the numbers your Thunder test is giving you--if I understand your description of the test above correctly.

The test itself:

3) Starting Voltages of the module and each individual cell group are recorded.
4) Discharge at 2C for 10 seconds and record minimum Voltages reached.
5) Ten seconds of rest.
6) Charge at 2C for 10 seconds and record maximum Voltages reached.
7) Use Ohm's law to calculate resistance values from these measurements.
8 ) Average the charge and discharge results together. These are your figures for impedance.

The thing to do is to characterize your pack when it is new and you have high confidence that things are working as they should. Keep these numbers as a baseline for comparing future tests against. Usually when things go wrong, it's a cell here or there that is straying from the others. You want to watch out for cell groups with IR numbers that stray well away from the mean of the other cell groups, or all cell groups experiencing radical (inevitably upward) leaps in value together. You can use the impedance numbers to do this, but I found it actually more useful to stare at the Voltage curves during these measurements. Vmax-Vmin is the number I liked best. A cell that's wrecked may show 3.2 Volts OCV, but you put a 2C load on it, and voltage falls to 2.0. Put a 2C charge on it, and it rockets to 3.9 Volts. With this particular type of module, the best cells have a Vmax-Vmin of <300 mV. Cells in the 300 to 350 mV range were a "grade" lower if you will, 350 to 400 mV another grade lower yet. These numbers are for groups of 8 cells in parallel. Above 400 mV, the cells would have difficulty passing the remainder of the test, failing either the minimum capacity test or drive cycle test. Even many of those cells have life left in them, but not enough for this application.

There's more. Pack or module-level impedances are not just the sum of the impedances of the cells. The impedance of the connections to and between the cells are also added, and a pack impedance test is a good way to find connections that have become unstable. That's really the main value in a pack level impedance test.

That's quite a bit of info. Hopefully you'll find it useful.

dh
 
Thank you for your detailed explanation. Yes it is quite a bit of info but it helped me in better understanding IR values. I only have the Thunder charger for measuring the IR of my cells, not the sophisticated equipment nor the proper environment or procedures for IR testing. However, as you stated, it will make for a baseline for monitoring the health of my cells. I just want to keep my battery working properly.

I'm happy with my homemade 12s A123 pack on my e-bike. I just completed my first 30 mile trail ride. With easy and mostly constant pedaling on mainly flat terrain, I used up just over 12ah. This is with wide knobby tires on my mountain bike on asphalt roads. My replacement road/hybrid tires are in the mail.

I found your posts very informative and helpful. Thanks again for all your support on this forum. I do hope that you will be able to provide A123 cells to us in the near future. Meanwhile, I will handle these cells with TLC so I can continue to enjoy the riding.
 
RayGo,

Glad to help and I'm happy to hear that your A123 cells are performing well for you. Avoid abusing them and they should last a good long time.

Cheers!
 
Help needed for Thunder 1220 Balance Charger
Did the eval (see above), bought, received, and wired in. Read the manual cover-to-cover several times. Can't seem to get this setup to work for me. I must be missing something.

What happens is this: turn the power supply on, the Thunder comes to life and goes through its initial 4 screens: HOTA Thunder 1220, Input Power 500W, Safety Timer On, buzzer on. It then sits on the screen: LiFe Manual {I managed to set this correctly.} Then after about 15 seconds, this:
--------------------------
| ***** ERROR ****** |
| car batt. empty |
-------------------------
I'm not using my car battery, I'm using a 500W 15V power supply which I bought at the same time as the Charger.

I turn the PSU off, then back on only to have the same thing happen. Any idea what might be happening? Many thanks!

Taking Notes
docnjoj said:
I've got the 1420 and the Thunder. For 12S the Thunder just simply charges and balances with little fuss.
999zip999 said:
Thunder 1220 can charge a 12s pack a little slower as far as amps out, but sounds like it works.
RayGo said:
I have the Thunder 1220 charger. It works well for me. It's on sale for $89 at HobbyPartz.com with a 10% off coupon ending July 5th.

I balance charge my 12s pack at 3A with an old Astroflight 13.5v power supply (about 168w) which takes several hours depending on the DOD of the pack. However, I also have a converted 575w HP power supply ($15) that I use with the Thunder 1220 which I have used to charge my pack at 6a. The 1220 can handle up to 500 watts. I could charge the pack at over 10a with the HP PS but have never tried charging that fast. I get a better balanced pack using a lower charging rate.

Interestingly, I can also bulk charge with the Thunder 1220 by not connecting the balance wires. The 1220 will ask how many cells are in the pack and bulk charge according to the cell voltage that you set. My pack (with no BMS but with Cell Log8s) seems to stay in balance on its own so now I usually bulk charge 2 or 3 times and then do a balance charge. The bulk charges are much faster than the balance charge and my cells tend to rest at about 3.5v after charging to 3.65v per cell.

I have a .pdf of the Owners Manual if you are interested.
skyungjae said:
speedmd said:
I got the thunder charger http://www.hobbypartz.com/75p-1220-charger.html and a 300w 12v power supply off of ebay. Excellent setup once I got it all wired.

Beat me to it. :lol:

ken1645 said:
I am really liking my Thunder balancing chargerwhich handles up to 12S lipo, needs 12V-15V to power and so far I've charged 10s4p at 8A which is pretty quick.
wesnewell said:
See safety timer on page 6 of the manual. It says there you can adjust it from 10 to 300 minutes or turn it off (for lithium batteries). Not adjustable for other battery types as stated on page 19.I'd turn it off and do a full charge and see if it balances better. But first I'd do a storage charge setting store voltage to 3.9V. Also you need to make sure you have the balance plugs plugged into the right ports. If you reverse them on my charger, it won't balance properly either. I may have missed it, but I didn't see anything about which balance port was high or low in the manual. Although I think I saw somewhere where the high side was the left port.
docnjoj said:
Yes high side voltage is the left balance port on the Thunder. I do have to admit that theThunder takes a long time to balance and is not the most accurate charger I have used. In my case I have LiFePo and it is fine for them. The A123 can easily get out of balance and eventually the Thunder gets them back to 0.01 volts. Perhaps not accurate enough for LiPo.
otherDoc
Andje said:
I would agree.
Set your safety timer to the full ammount of turn it off.
In the battery choice options look for an option that says something like "continue" or "stop" when TCS capacity is reached. Set it to continue.
If you have a TCS option with a % setting I'd set it at 95%. This will charge your bats to 4.15v instead of 4.2 and will increase cycle longevity while losing only 2-5% of useful charge.
speedmd said:
Thanks a bunch cal3thousand

So 12 amps is nothing too dangerous. When I set the thunder 1220 at 8 amps it took almost a hour to get from storage charge to 4.18v. 12 amps was around 35 minutes. No detectable heat in the brick I did at the higher rate. :) All cells check out to 4.17-4.18 volts. :D
 
Battery connected? If so, make sure you have voltage at the PS outputs/ connector inputs for the charger. I had high resistance connection on one supply lead that was a bit time consuming finding and was giving me failure also. Also make sure all the balance board contacts are fully seated in the plastic connectors as I had several that were not and led to battery faults.
 
speedmd said:
Battery connected? If so, make sure you have voltage at the PS outputs/ connector inputs for the charger. I had high resistance connection on one supply lead that was a bit time consuming finding and was giving me failure also. Also make sure all the balance board contacts are fully seated in the plastic connectors as I had several that were not and led to battery faults.
Thanks for reply. I know I'm a complete noob, so forgive my ask: What do you mean - "Battery connected? If so, make sure you have voltage at the PS outputs/ connector inputs for the charger." I've tested the voltage of each cell using 2 Celllogs attached to the same terminals for the wiring harness to my battery pack - a 12S LiFePO4.
Thunder.png
The voltage shown by the Celllogs is the same as the voltage I test on the battery pack. I believe that tells me that the fault is not in the wiring harness or connections. Yea, I've made sure the female JSX terminal is fully inserted into the male connector to the charger.
 
no.

the charger has to be powered up before you connect the battery to the charger.

if you have a charger with the switch on the end, turn the switch off before plugging the charger into the AC, then turn the switch on to activate the charger, then connect the battery last.
 
There are too sets of inputs on the front: 1> EH-Balancer connector {the 6S/6S JSX connectors} and 2> power input "Battery". I've made an assumption, lacking any instruction in the operating manual: that since I'm using the charger only as a balance charger, do <1>, but NOT <2>. It say "power input", but I'm using the power supply wires on the backside to a 500W PSU. Have I perhaps assumed wrong? Does the "power input" need to be connected to the Pos/Neg terminals on my battery pack for correction operation?
 
dnmun said:
no.

the charger has to be powered up before you connect the battery to the charger.

if you have a charger with the switch on the end, turn the switch off before plugging the charger into the AC, then turn the switch on to activate the charger, then connect the battery last.
My Thunder 1220 has no switch on it. I'll try your suggestion of plugging the battery into the unit after powering-on.
 
on the balancing charger you connect the two red and black charger output wires to the ends of the pack and the JST plug has to be installed if you want it to balance. the JST plug is the same as the sense wire for the BMS which is what it actually is. the charger itself should be powered up by your power supply before you connect to the battery. the JST plug can be connected anytime since it doesn't carry the charging current.
 
dnmun said:
on the balancing charger you connect the two red and black charger output wires to the ends of the pack and the JST plug has to be installed if you want it to balance. the JST plug is the same as the sense wire for the BMS which is what it actually is. the charger itself should be powered up by your power supply before you connect to the battery. the JST plug can be connected anytime since it doesn't carry the charging current.
OK then. Glad to have clear instructions on how to use this charger. I'm going to do that and let you know.
 
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