pendragon8000
100 kW
Oh cool. Sorry I missed that. The guy that makes those funky torque arms is who I meant.
AM dual motor = bafang middrive + rear hub motor
- Thread starter John Bozi
- Start date
John Bozi
100 kW
ok onto the final point. I was sent to the wrong CA version... I think its 2. something..
will i as a newb ever use what the V3 has to offer?
What's the difference for somebody like me? As I don't know if posting it back is worth it.
will i as a newb ever use what the V3 has to offer?
What's the difference for somebody like me? As I don't know if posting it back is worth it.
pendragon8000
100 kW
If you want to connect a thermistor sensor to the CA then you need v3 other than that you can put a thermostat in the motor so it cuts out at 100°c . The other main feature is the external power switch so you can have legal / economy/full power modes .
John Bozi
100 kW
v2... sent back
John Ks spacer arrived, replaced 24 spacers.
Other issues I just discovered my lever for the rear derauller can't change because the button hits the fat crystalyte throttle. Can't shift it over because the handle bars are are narrow and the bar suddenly gets to fat. I might have to buy the wide handle bar after all or - just remove the derealleur all together.
universal torque arm arrived, my ass universal. went into super cheap auto to get some larger tube clamps for it. My swing arms have got some fatness to them back there.
This is the one I have installed:
like on the right as the strengthening bar is much bigger and thicker than in these pictures.
Now waiting for last torque arm
I am waiting to receive this one:
Will these two be strong enough for the amps?
John Ks spacer arrived, replaced 24 spacers.
Other issues I just discovered my lever for the rear derauller can't change because the button hits the fat crystalyte throttle. Can't shift it over because the handle bars are are narrow and the bar suddenly gets to fat. I might have to buy the wide handle bar after all or - just remove the derealleur all together.
universal torque arm arrived, my ass universal. went into super cheap auto to get some larger tube clamps for it. My swing arms have got some fatness to them back there.
This is the one I have installed:
like on the right as the strengthening bar is much bigger and thicker than in these pictures.
Now waiting for last torque arm
I am waiting to receive this one:
Will these two be strong enough for the amps?
John Bozi
100 kW
When I went for a ride on the bike before putting the motor on I was saying how I hated the 63cm wide handle bars. I was going to live with them until I ran into the lever for the rear derauller has clearance issues. After much umming and ahrring to cut the lever or not, I said stuff it and now spent even more on the bicycle side of things.
$95 delivered.
With the cost of new tubes and tyres and now the 78cm wide handle bar, my bicycle alone is in the $1850 area. Budget is blown totally.
Took the wife shopping to make up for it...
$95 delivered.
With the cost of new tubes and tyres and now the 78cm wide handle bar, my bicycle alone is in the $1850 area. Budget is blown totally.
Took the wife shopping to make up for it...
pendragon8000
100 kW
Torque arms look solid enough in my opinion.
Did you try pushing the gear trigger out forward from underneath with your thumb. I have a lever that does that, its cool I suddenly realised it goes both ways.
On my other bike I had to file down the lever a bit and bend it I think. Try pointing the throttle wires backwards to.
Did you try pushing the gear trigger out forward from underneath with your thumb. I have a lever that does that, its cool I suddenly realised it goes both ways.
On my other bike I had to file down the lever a bit and bend it I think. Try pointing the throttle wires backwards to.
John Bozi
100 kW
Made this video for you Pendragon, as you said make a video...
[youtube]wEcHEeEbGwk[/youtube]
[youtube]wEcHEeEbGwk[/youtube]
pendragon8000
100 kW
Nce one. thanks for the shot out.
heres a few examples of front mount battery:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=45528&start=75#p695963
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=46942&start=100#p724206 (also has batteries in the triangle i think)
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=29373&hilit=norko&start=100#p657031
the last one there is sn0wchyld's creation, in that thread there is some discusion/argument about the merits of having the mass of the battery in that location.
did you try the gear lever the other way (push it foward from underneith with your thumb?)
heres a few examples of front mount battery:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=45528&start=75#p695963
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=46942&start=100#p724206 (also has batteries in the triangle i think)
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=29373&hilit=norko&start=100#p657031
the last one there is sn0wchyld's creation, in that thread there is some discusion/argument about the merits of having the mass of the battery in that location.
did you try the gear lever the other way (push it foward from underneith with your thumb?)
John Bozi
100 kW
I wish I got in touch with "newb" before I started on my last journey as my bike might have worked out better too.
He is the only ebiker I know that lives nearish me. We plan to go for a ride and he is really helpful too. This is his creation. And I am sure he would agree with you about the front pack. I hope to learn stuff from him that I am to scared to try with out seeing first hand. Such as wiring those lipo packs and charging. I am really bad at learning from text and pictures.
I have started reading into the theories about the distribution now. I have never ridden a back rack bike and will discover first hand soon enough how poorly it handles. I intuitively know I won't be able to lean into corners as I could with my first triangle battery set up.
I just want to get this thing started and I am sure I will move into modifying more of the setup once that happens.
My lever is thumb underneath click push - index finger pull.
He is the only ebiker I know that lives nearish me. We plan to go for a ride and he is really helpful too. This is his creation. And I am sure he would agree with you about the front pack. I hope to learn stuff from him that I am to scared to try with out seeing first hand. Such as wiring those lipo packs and charging. I am really bad at learning from text and pictures.
I have started reading into the theories about the distribution now. I have never ridden a back rack bike and will discover first hand soon enough how poorly it handles. I intuitively know I won't be able to lean into corners as I could with my first triangle battery set up.
I just want to get this thing started and I am sure I will move into modifying more of the setup once that happens.
My lever is thumb underneath click push - index finger pull.
John Bozi
100 kW
Although I haven't had time to test the gear changing I think after mounting the controller they might be limited in movement (the cables are not in a plastic casing (cheap buggers) and the wires are more centred under the top tube where as the brake casing is more away and not compressed at all.
I was thinking maybe I should bite the bullet and just convert the whole thing to a single speed. And send the 7 freewheel back unused. Won't save much since posting it back will cost a bit too.
I wonder what all the parts I will need for the rear to start with.
this is from sheldon:
I was thinking maybe I should bite the bullet and just convert the whole thing to a single speed. And send the 7 freewheel back unused. Won't save much since posting it back will cost a bit too.
I wonder what all the parts I will need for the rear to start with.
pendragon8000
100 kW
If your having that much trouble with the 7 speed I suggest setting a ratio for going fast. 16 rear 44 front. Then you've got h/m/l gear up front hey...?
John Bozi
100 kW
pendragon8000 said:
?
On my first long ride out up the mountains with long open roads I really thought I wanted 44t or even more, so that I could keep the motor reving at the best level and well I could help it up hills before it started slowing down.
This is quite a short point though.
Actually a lot of the time when I need to help the motor will be on a shorter hill after a corner, which means I will be starting at lower speeds. I also just pedal around narrow sharp bike path corners too as I find more control in pedaling than throttle.
so I am wondering if you were refering with your hml -
gear ratios? Which I am more in the mind of staying middle of the road with 2:1
above from surlybikes.com
pendragon8000
100 kW
High Med low
I guess its different for off road on hills. On the street I'd be happy with 11t/44t but off road its more like 1:2 as you said.
I guess its different for off road on hills. On the street I'd be happy with 11t/44t but off road its more like 1:2 as you said.
kudos
10 kW
Love the video John, all the issues you are having with your latest build got me nodding my head seeing as I've had them all too.
One thing I thought I'd mention is that instead of using a standard right-side rear gear shifter which can be awkward with a right-side throttle, is to use a left-hand twist-grip gear shifter.
This leaves the bars completely clean if you want. It can be hard to find left-hand twist-grip gear shifters but you can just use a right-hand one on the left side, the numbers will be upside down though.
I recently saw some of these LH gear shifters come up on ebay and I bought 10 of them for future builds!
I'm liking the look of the 4065, doesn't seem to be too many builds with it on as yet, I might go for one myself on the next ride.
Looking forward to the finished bike.
Kudos
One thing I thought I'd mention is that instead of using a standard right-side rear gear shifter which can be awkward with a right-side throttle, is to use a left-hand twist-grip gear shifter.
This leaves the bars completely clean if you want. It can be hard to find left-hand twist-grip gear shifters but you can just use a right-hand one on the left side, the numbers will be upside down though.
I recently saw some of these LH gear shifters come up on ebay and I bought 10 of them for future builds!
I'm liking the look of the 4065, doesn't seem to be too many builds with it on as yet, I might go for one myself on the next ride.
Looking forward to the finished bike.
Kudos
John Bozi
100 kW
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=37964&p=760751#p760751
I have no idea how to connect the white wire coming out of the the motor to v3, since my v2 will have software upgraded to v3. trying to research as in the above link, I don't think I have all the connectors that should come v3. I have no idea as I have never used either.
I have been offered a refund. which gets my mind running, how important is the cycle analyst? Sure it is great to know what's happening, with battery levels, but IMO it's a huge blow to the I am only riding a bicycle officer and have no idea what speed I was travelling concept.
On top of that it is one more thing to worry about getting stolen or damaged in a drop.
What do you guys reckon? I have already sent my v2 back to get the v3 I paid for so this is the time to decide how important this is or how stealth my project is.
I have no idea how to connect the white wire coming out of the the motor to v3, since my v2 will have software upgraded to v3. trying to research as in the above link, I don't think I have all the connectors that should come v3. I have no idea as I have never used either.
I have been offered a refund. which gets my mind running, how important is the cycle analyst? Sure it is great to know what's happening, with battery levels, but IMO it's a huge blow to the I am only riding a bicycle officer and have no idea what speed I was travelling concept.
On top of that it is one more thing to worry about getting stolen or damaged in a drop.
What do you guys reckon? I have already sent my v2 back to get the v3 I paid for so this is the time to decide how important this is or how stealth my project is.
pendragon8000
100 kW
from ebikes.caJohn Bozi said:
so aparently you just need to connect the thermal wire to the cycle analyst plug, if you can solder the end of a wire and slip it into the thermistor plug on the cycle analyst you should be right to just tape it up, i have done this with those plugs, its esentialy the same as a pin from the coresponding plug as far as cunductivity etc goes, just make sure you tape it up securely.
as you can see below the thermistor plug has a negative and positive or high/input, anyway if you have 1 wire try the positive / input pin
(im assuming the negative side is common through the hall sensors the same as i have done with my monster build, but you could check it with a multi meter by pluging in the halls to the controller and conect a multimeter to the negative battery conection on the controller and the other multimeter lead to the thermistor wire)
if you have 2 wires for the thermistor coming out of the motor just connect them both in there, polarity shouldnt mater.
pendragon8000
100 kW
oh yeah and as far as stealth goes the cycle analyst is the least of your worries and you can bolt it on from behind of remove the finger turner for the tightening bolt so you have to use an allen key. if security is a concern i sugest getting an alarm disc lock like this:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Motorcycle-Bicycle-Bike-Brake-Disc-Disk-Alarm-Lock-Safety-Safe-Security-Key-/130774909154?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSI%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D280907439812%26ps%3D54
or
http://compare.ebay.com.au/like/360675444452?ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&cbt=y&_lwgsi=y&item_id=360675444452
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Motorcycle-Bicycle-Bike-Brake-Disc-Disk-Alarm-Lock-Safety-Safe-Security-Key-/130774909154?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSI%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D280907439812%26ps%3D54
or
http://compare.ebay.com.au/like/360675444452?ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&cbt=y&_lwgsi=y&item_id=360675444452
John Bozi
100 kW
i didnt get those connectors in the picture.
pendragon8000
100 kW
The v3 CA has the extras the v2 doesn't. Have you got the v3 yet. It should have all those connectors.
John Bozi
100 kW
I'm going for a refund and will order directly from ebikes.ca unless there is a closer cheaper seller.
I had a V2 that was going to be upgraded to a V3. Lucky I looked into this before it got sent back to me again.
I had a V2 that was going to be upgraded to a V3. Lucky I looked into this before it got sent back to me again.
pendragon8000
100 kW
Its different hardware. They can't possibly upgrade the v2 software. It should be fine. Check it I guess to make sure but a CA v3will have all the plugs in that pic if that's what your worried about. Better to wait 1 day than 1 week right?
John Bozi
100 kW
Got home after work late picked up Mrs n bub, went home, torque arm arrived. Went back to build the bike with a 2 hour time frame to set it up. Got it all done. Lucky to find a file size to give the inside of the torque arm a 10 minute rub to fit it through onto the axle. Just lined it up temporarily as I have to lock tight it with more time. Just desperate to give it a spin..
Only time for a spin around the block also was drizzlilng on and off so just went for 5 min spin around the block.
First thoughts only can compare to my old xyz build. Torque, speed about 15% better. Smoothness and sound of the ride perfect. The wheel is true as.
I haven't had a chance to let it wind out over a longer straight, I suspect it has more in store for me there. As I sleep tonight I will be dreaming of waking up and racing over to the man cave to ride this thing properly.
I am pissing my pants out of excitement.
p.s. I didn't notice how the battery on the back handled poorly since it was just on the road. I did however notice heading back up te 20% grade driveway home that as I peddled to help the motor up I was almost lifting the front wheel off the ground.
Small hassle not really a problem for my 5 minute spin.
Only time for a spin around the block also was drizzlilng on and off so just went for 5 min spin around the block.
First thoughts only can compare to my old xyz build. Torque, speed about 15% better. Smoothness and sound of the ride perfect. The wheel is true as.
I haven't had a chance to let it wind out over a longer straight, I suspect it has more in store for me there. As I sleep tonight I will be dreaming of waking up and racing over to the man cave to ride this thing properly.
I am pissing my pants out of excitement.
p.s. I didn't notice how the battery on the back handled poorly since it was just on the road. I did however notice heading back up te 20% grade driveway home that as I peddled to help the motor up I was almost lifting the front wheel off the ground.
Small hassle not really a problem for my 5 minute spin.
pendragon8000
100 kW
Good to hear you got a ride
The peak power output should be at 1/2 Max speed so you might find a nice power zone 25-40 kph. Also if you have high psi in the tyres you'll get a lot better acceleration than if Med to low psi ,particularly the rear tyre.
I hope to see a video of you new creation riping it up
The peak power output should be at 1/2 Max speed so you might find a nice power zone 25-40 kph. Also if you have high psi in the tyres you'll get a lot better acceleration than if Med to low psi ,particularly the rear tyre.
I hope to see a video of you new creation riping it up
John Bozi
100 kW
Lucky to have time to give it a run around the suburb today.
This does not have a higher top speed than my xyz elcheapo tank. I don't have a ca but I know from driving a car and cars driving past me that the top speed on flats with a very long run up is the same or even possibly slower at about 50kmh. This doesn't bother me as I won't run into trouble with the cops as much but I am slightly disappointed with what I was told by the seller.
As mentioned earlier it does have more grunt on hills, and general acceleration. I look forward to getting the battery fixed on my xyz tank so that my bro can race me to see how when working which is a better set up for speed or just getting from a to b with a variety of slopes and flats.
I have never needed to change gears, and am finding once riding a bit quicker than 10kmh that I have no issues with the narrow width of the handle bar. I am also forming opinions about suspension really quickly. I think I have gone over kill. Maybe if my battery was up front it would use the front suspension but for now the front is doing jack and the back very little too. I look forward with more time to doing videos from side on in slow motion to show what the suspension is doing and what the rear battery pack is doing going over bumps and gutters.
For road riding I can't see what all the fuss is about on this forum about rear battery weight. It is almost unnoticable to me right now as I am not leaning into corners in a race or weaving in and out of trees on single tracks.
Saddest thing ever is that I have just spent almost $4000 and am already running in my head what I will do differently next time. In particular I wish I could have got my hands on a pslope with concentric single speed dual suspension that only works for the big bumps. I would have happily spent that extra bit to get that. I will end up spending the same amount to convert this thing into a single speed anyway. And there will be no answer for the chain slap.
For road riding 10 cm of suspension is enough, but then again I might down the pressure in my forks (when I work out how) to utilize the travel once I have done my gutter drop studies.
This does not have a higher top speed than my xyz elcheapo tank. I don't have a ca but I know from driving a car and cars driving past me that the top speed on flats with a very long run up is the same or even possibly slower at about 50kmh. This doesn't bother me as I won't run into trouble with the cops as much but I am slightly disappointed with what I was told by the seller.
As mentioned earlier it does have more grunt on hills, and general acceleration. I look forward to getting the battery fixed on my xyz tank so that my bro can race me to see how when working which is a better set up for speed or just getting from a to b with a variety of slopes and flats.
I have never needed to change gears, and am finding once riding a bit quicker than 10kmh that I have no issues with the narrow width of the handle bar. I am also forming opinions about suspension really quickly. I think I have gone over kill. Maybe if my battery was up front it would use the front suspension but for now the front is doing jack and the back very little too. I look forward with more time to doing videos from side on in slow motion to show what the suspension is doing and what the rear battery pack is doing going over bumps and gutters.
For road riding I can't see what all the fuss is about on this forum about rear battery weight. It is almost unnoticable to me right now as I am not leaning into corners in a race or weaving in and out of trees on single tracks.
Saddest thing ever is that I have just spent almost $4000 and am already running in my head what I will do differently next time. In particular I wish I could have got my hands on a pslope with concentric single speed dual suspension that only works for the big bumps. I would have happily spent that extra bit to get that. I will end up spending the same amount to convert this thing into a single speed anyway. And there will be no answer for the chain slap.
For road riding 10 cm of suspension is enough, but then again I might down the pressure in my forks (when I work out how) to utilize the travel once I have done my gutter drop studies.
John Bozi
100 kW
[youtube]KX0bwsshS6g[/youtube]
First ride in the day.
First ride in the day.
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