Are hall sensor different ? L & R is Y3461 and middle G3466 and not working

[ZenaWarrior]

I've a 3500 watt motor not going and testing the hall sensors, found yellow wire hall sensor not working part no G3466. The other 2 is Y3461. Is it important to be the right number or can I use any other hall sensor. Hoping I've explained myself well enough.

 

[TommyCat]

It’s important to use a replacement with the same specifications as close as possible to the original, if not the original itself.
Find and use the sensors' data sheet for particulars.

This thread discusses the “why” a bit…
Hall sensor for motor

This thread discusses the “testing” a bit…
Testing BLDC motor's Phase Wiring - Hall Sensors and Wiring. - Electricbike.com Ebike Forum

In research I've found this part available as part of a variety of different sensors offering, or on a premade PCB board...
Appears to be for a 60-degree type motor/controller.

Regards,
T.C.

 

[ZenaWarrior]

It’s important to use a replacement with the same specifications as close as possible to the original, if not the original itself.
Find and use the sensors' data sheet for particulars.

This thread discusses the “why” a bit…
Hall sensor for motor

This thread discusses the “testing” a bit…
Testing BLDC motor's Phase Wiring - Hall Sensors and Wiring. - Electricbike.com Ebike Forum

In research I've found this part available as part of a variety of different sensors offering, or on a premade PCB board...
Appears to be for a 60-degree type motor/controller.

Regards,
T.C.

I thought it was the case, got the good one (Y3461) from China assuming they were all the same. I bought the tester, and the manual show the light for 60 and 120 degree, but they are both the same. The Chinese are confusing me and the light pattern aren't the same. I've 2 motors the same, don't know their name, they come from motorcycle-scooters, can't find them either on the net. Having 2 motors makes things easier to test.

 

[amberwolf]

If you have two differnet kinds of sensor in the motor, it is *probably* a 60-degree motor. This means that the hall signals toggle in a pattern that includes all off and all on.


If the controller is a 120-degree-only type, it may not work with the motor because of that difference, and appear to be a "bad" hall sensor. 120-type do not ever have all sensors on or off at the same time, just a max of two in the same state.


If the sensor is correctly toggling it's output as the magnets spin, then the above is usually the issue.

If the sensor is not toggling, and you do have the correct pullup resistor setup on it for testing or have it connected to the powered-on controller while testing so the controller does this (and the controller has the correct pullups in it), or the motor tester you are uisng has the pullups, then the sensor is probably failed.


There are several threads about motor hall sensors I've posted the details of how the sensors are used, and which specific things about the sensor specs are usually important, iif you look thru my threads for hall sensor posts. (there are probably a lot of them).