NoSmoke said:
I am concerned that the color coding of the Hall and phase wiring on the motor does not correspond directly to that on the controller.
I can virtually guarantee that it's very unlikely for them to match.
I gather then that the Kelly (KLS6030N) is not a self-learning controller and, that is why the "Identification angle" procedure is needed(?).
AFAIK, that's what the IA process *is*: self-learn.
The SL process is usually done on basic controllers by connecting a wire pair with the powered wheel offground; once the motor spins normally its disocnnected. If it spins the wrong way, just do it again. That's all there is. But the rest of the controller isn't configurable or tunable, so...if you need that stuff, more programmable things like Kellys, Sabvotons, Fardriver, etc, are a better option.
Even more advanced controllers also exist, like Sevcon, ASI, etc., but they don't support DIYers so you're on your own setting one up, or even trying to get the software and hardware needed to do so...and without that, the controller is an expensive brick becuase it has to be tuned to the motor and system you use it with to even work at all.
DIY controllers exist with more configurability but still with support, but they're DIY, so you'd need to build it and set it up, or best case get one premade and isntall the firmware and set it up.
If that is the case, I'm also wondering how one knows if the Hall and phase wiring are incorrect - do you have to wait until the procedure completes (which I gather can take two or three minutes) and gives a fail indication or, can one tell sooner (such as the motor does not move at all or maybe only a bit one way of the other)?
The test can cause the motor to jerk all over the place and make some scary noises (just like doing it manually), so until it's over you cant' usually tell what's really going on.
I have a broken Kelly here that just smokes motors trying to do the IA test; I haven't tried to skip the IA and just manually determine a good phase/hall combo to see if it can be used at all; it may have damaged FET drivers or FETs, or a problem with it's brain; dunno. Kinda hoping for it to be a brain problem, because then I can use the powerstage driven from a Lebowski brain chip instead.
It surprises me that the color coding is not apparently consistent between manufacturers - the colors themselves seem to be pretty consistent but the wiring not so.
There's no reason for them to care. People buy the stuff anyway (probably not having any idea about this stuff and not knowing they will have to match the wires by function, not color) and now that self-learn is a fairly common thing, there is virtually no reason to do so. Some controllers don't even use colored wire anymore for the phase and hall signals, just for the hall power and ground. Motors still seem to color theirs, but even that will go away eventually to save money (3 rolls (or one bigger) of the same color will be (a little) cheaper than 3 different colors, in quantity).
Pardon the "rant" below; it's something most people don't think about; it's very simplified, but essentially how it works:
THere are many other incompatible things between manufacturers of basically the same stuff, and there isn't any benefit to them to change those, either, so generally they don't. If it would suddenly make or save them a lot of money to change to the same system some other manufacturer uses, and keep making them that money, they'd do it.
Always keep in mind that companies as a general rule don't make things we need. They make us need things they make. They make things that cost enough less to make and distribute that they can profit maximally by doing so.
So they don't really care what we need or what we want; they look at what other people are already selling successfully, and either just make those, or they copy that in their own incompatible version (so you have to buy all the parts from them, until someone else copies theirs, then they update it to make all the previous stuff (and the clone(s)) incompatible, and sell more new things. (see Bafang for a reference)
There's a few exceptions...but not many.
BTW, I think I have narrowed down the manufacturer of the motor on the ATV. It appears to be the same as the controller - UniteMotor. They manufacture both controllers and motors and I think I have this motor:
http://motors-manufacturer.com/2-12-1200-1500w-drive-motor-pmdc-brushless-motor-tf133ah.html
The look and dimensions are the same but I am a bit bummed as it says it is a 1,500 W motor (rated) with 3,000 W (max) and the Kelly I bought is rated for a 3,000 W motor. The ATV vendor told me it was a 3,000 W motor which seemed odd at the time as the original controller is 1,500 W. Looks like I may have bought a controller twice as large as necessary?
The "good" news is a bigger controller will be more able to handle a load without running near it's limits. Many e-parts are sold as rated higher than they are actually able to deal with; right at the limits of their specifications, rather than leaving a large safety margin like they should.
So the seller calls a 3000w *peak* motor a 3000w motor, even though it can't sustain that for more than a few seconds at a time. Same for just about every part you can find out there.
Some sellers do actually rate things realistically, like QSMotor's motors. (dunno about their controllers; seen plenty of exploded ones on the forum...but the motors are nice.
So if you setup the controller to not sustain 3kw, or you install a thermal sensor inside the motor (BBQ thermometer, etc) and use your own judgement on when to let off throttle, or conditions you ride in, the motor can probably handle the bursts of 3kw it may see.
You can also use forced-air cooling on the outside of the motor to increase the frequency of those bursts, or ventilate the motor and use that FA cooling to increase the sustained power it can handle.
Oh well, the vendor also told me it was a three pole motor so go figure...
Best guess is they don't speak English as a first language and/or they aren't technical enough to know the difference between "pole" and "phase".
