Bafang HD1000 FATTY - ME TOO

[waynebergman]

Lucky guy that I am, I have acquired the demo bike that was at the LV bike show this year sporting the new Bafang HD 1000. I have made a swap with GreenMachine for my home built tadpole.Bafang put the bike together for the show and the Skuma frame they have gone with seems really nice. The bike as it was delivered to me is ready to roll as a street fat tire bike but I will be chipping away at things over the winter to have it set up as a single track hill climber with the options of also riding sand and snow these fat tire bikes are famous for.

I will be going with a ghetto tubeless conversion, with Fat B Nimble 26x4 folding tire and setting the bike up for mostly slow speed trail riding as a priority. I will dial in the chain line to feed a slow speed first gear for hill climbing and remount a 52volt Dolphin pack from Luna along with there 42 tooth front ring for this motor. First on the list will be to disable the PAS and convert to a ghetto tubeless.

I love this little bike, if I can dial in some smooth slow speed throttle response with the ability to climb big hills with out heating things up I will be very happy.

 

[--freeride--]

You can disable the PAS via Software, so no need to do that in Hardware. I prefer to have the Pas Running at 100 to 200W so that the bike rides around like a light non electric bike. And you can push tht throttle for full power on top.

For slow speed throttle response put the start voltage for the throttle on 9 and the start power percentage on 4 or 5%.
this way the throttle pulls right away when u push it and it starts smooth with low power.

 

[WoodlandHills]

I really like the PAS, you just have to learn how to use it. Keeping your thumb constantly on the throttle gets old really fast IMHO. The same with the twist throttle and frankly compared to the same parts on a snow machine or dirt bike they feel pretty cheesy....... If you use the twist throttle you are stuck with the hard grip on that side forever too.

I use the 5 PAS levels according to how steep the trail or how fast I want to cruise. At PAS 1 my fat bike feels weightless and essentially all real forward motion comes from my muscles on most trails. As it gets steeper or if I want to go faster I just bump the button with my left thumb and up the assist level. If that's not enough power then I slap the throttle with my right thumb for Turbo Assist!

On single track I use PAS 0 and the thumb throttle and just keep spinning.

 

[spinningmagnets]

I like the low top-bar on that frame, and I have also grown to like the idea of the tapered head-tube (with the larger lower bearing). There is an adapter available if anyone wants to use an older (or more affordable) model of suspension fork. So...having the tapered head-tube gives the customers the widest set of options.

 

[WoodlandHills]

Of all the various types or styles of bike, the fat version is most in need of a motor and is the type that will have the lightest footprint. If eBikes are ever to be welcome on MTB single track it is the 4" and 5" tire sort that will be first: a motor that is anywhere close to being legal will be unlikely to be any harder on trails than the existing MTBs. However, I think it will be a struggle to convince most MTBers this. Spend time at any MTB forum and do a search for eBike and you will see what I mean. A CA Class 1 fat eBike with a nominal 750w mid-drive would be the best argument against a blanket ban on all eBikes on MTB singletrack and it is huge fun!

 

[waynebergman]

Thanks for the tips on PAS guys. I am a 1/2 twist throttle guy so the PAS will be disabled when I get my program cable.

For now I will go with the raptor straps for locking in the battery pack and some rubber bumpers on the frame tubing to cushion the pack from trail vibrations. Its a long story but with a small front triangle like this the work around from Bafang was to use one of the two bottle mount M-screws ONLY so the battery can be swivelled on this one M screw for tucking things in place. Because the Battery Pack needs to slide from the front of the bike to the back for installing into the mounting plate the top tube of this frame is just in the way for sliding the battery pack in place. As I will be from time to time swapping an extra pack for extra range when I am out on the trail the system shown in the photo is what I may go with. It actually is solid like this and the pack is cushioned in front triangle real well but it does look a little rough around the edges I realize.

Also shown in the photos are the ingredients for the handy man tubeless conversion. Karl from http://electric-fatbike.com/ recommends going with 24" tubes for the liner and inner working of the system as it fits tighter than a regular 26" tube on the 26" rims. I found some nice downhill 24" tubes that are a nice thick rubber and threaded schrader valves so this may do the trick, I will try it. I thought the store bought syringes were a bit over priced for shooting in the Stans no tubes solution so I am going with our kitchen Turkey baster (I may regret this) and a short length of rubber tubing.

 

[waynebergman]

Converted the front wheel to tubeless today and things went pretty smooth. Just like Karl describes from his site http://electric-fatbike.com/2015/06/16/go-ghetto-tubeless-on-your-fatbikes-for-15-per-tire-and-30-minutes-of-work/
Turkey Baster worked real well so I figure it has seen its last turkey. With the valve stem removed you do not even need to use the bulb on the baster, just pour the prescribed amount down the chute and and it flows down into the tire no problem.

 

[sendler2112]

Tubless with sealant will be very reliable and I bet you save a ridiculous amount of weight by having gotten rid of most of a gigantic fat tire tube.

 

[waynebergman]

Yes "sendler2112"the tubeless will be more flat proof for sure. I first used tubeless way way back when Stan no Tubes first hit the market. Because the tube is still in the tire but cut apart for this particular type of conversion it does not really save weight but it lets you run super low tire pressure. Great for trials riding and good all around traction but not really for speed in my case. Photos here show the completion of the rear wheel. You can see the set up with the turkey baster, works like a charm the Stans fluid just runs right into the tire, put the valve stem back in and inflate, shake things around and you are good to go. I will test out the tires tomorrow but I am saving the real trail ride experience until I get my gearing like I want it and also reprogram the bike so no PAS on 0 settting and a half twist throttle. Getting pretty excited about this bike.

 

[sendler2112]

I think you would be surprised how heavy a full fat tire tube is. And how much of the 24" tube you are cutting out. Dan'sComp sells a really nice ultra light 24" tube. Thinner is better so it doesn't interfere with the hook bead. Of course you need a lot of sealant with those big tires. 150 grams? If you can't hear it when you shake the tire, it is not enough.

 

[waynebergman]

Got my dropper post with cross country saddle on the bike now and the tubeless feel real nice. I also picked up a set of the Azonic Flat Iron pedals that were on black friday sale for 60 bucks. Super nice pedals with a very very low profile. The bike rides very nice in PAS setting 1 just kind of putting around slow speed around the neighbourhood and walking the dog, super smooth. I will set up the old school leather saddle with an old suspension seat post I have for grocery getting and the dropper post for trail riding. AS it sits now with the 52v 11ah pack from Luna the bike is just a hair under 60lbs. I am real happy with this.

The next stage is to put some different sprockets for hill climbing or snow riding on it (in the mail YAHOO) & my half twist throttle. I am reluctant to do any real trail riding till I smooth out the power band and gear it for the dirt. This bike is going to be a winner I feel.

 

[Lash]

Looks great. I'd like to do a fatty for my next ebike too I reckon. Gotta hurry up and finish my flux first though!

Just researching motor options for a fatty now. Wondering whether to do a mid mount or a rear hub of some sort. Be good to have some low down torque and gearing to climb trees with.

Cheers.

 

[Deafcat]

totally jealous, that's a great configuration!

 

[waynebergman]

I got digging around in the old parts drawers and found some items from the old days. The suspension seat post shown I have had for a long time. I think its close to 20 years old and was only manufactured for one year or so and made in the good old USA before they went out of biz. Its an awesome post and I will have the leather saddle on it for grocery getting and street riding. The dropper post is so nice for trail ridding I will use that with the regular xc saddle that came with the bike for trail duties.

Also shown in the attached photos is my old home made bike light (its also around 20 years old) sitting next to the new awesome modern lights that work so well. This new one from Luna will wire into the 5.5 mini charging jack on the side of my 52v pack, it works really well. In the old days we would strap these home made jobs to our helmets for night time trail riding. Big heavy motor cycle 12 volt batteries in a back pack running the little 12v halogen light bulbs. The ABS we used for holding the bulbs would heat up and melt if you stopped to chat for any length of time. Boy, those were the days.

 

[waynebergman]

View attachment 3View attachment 2

Shown here is a bash guard I will be working on over the next while. The brown aluminum tubing was a piece I got from the recycle depot a while back. Stripped the paint and cut it up on the band saw for the cemi circle part of this piece. The wall thickness of this tubing looks maybe a bit thin but I am only 135lbs and mostly what I want out of this bash guard is to protect the motor somewhat from riding over logs etc but also to distribute the loads over a longer part of the down tube when the motor area hits on a log. The bike frame itself is very thin walled and the motor leveraged against one small area of the down tube may dent or damage the down tube a lot easier than with the bash guard in place.

 

[waynebergman]

This may actually work, although its starting to look like the bike may loose its original production polished appearance.

 

[waynebergman]

So far so good. I will give it the log climbing over test on the next sunny day we get. Putting around on this thing in PAS today I am super impressed with the quietness of this motor, all you can hear is the awesome big tires whirling around.

I am really looking forward to getting the programming changed to smooth out things. With the 48v pack that was originally on the bike things were smoother I think than the surging I am getting now with the 52v pack in place. In PAS level 1 however its very smooth and gives a real nice feel to climbing light hills and putting around. Makes the bike feel super light actually.

I have no idea how Bafang has programmed this motor but I am sure when I change some of the settings based on the tips from Karl's electric fat bike site I will have smoother throttle control and acceleration. My nephew is going to lend me his PC and the program cable is in the mail.

 

[tommie]

Nice idea and all that but you`re covering up the fins and they`re there for a purpose. I`d keep a close eye on temps.

 

[waynebergman]

Good point Tommie. I never thought about that but it may be an issue.

 

[craneplaneguy]

Should be real minimal effect on the cooling, you left a pretty good airspace. Your pictures make me (again) want to get the aluminum welding spool setup conversion for my Lincoln MIG welder!

 

[spinningmagnets]

I think the guard will keep mud off of the fins, and I think that will end up working quite well for cooling, along with bash protection...

 

[waynebergman]

Having some initial good luck reprograming the motor. The surging is now gone and upping things to the 30 amps I am getting more power. Smooth power too so this is awesome. One main issue to fine tune and hoping for some help please.....the attached photo shows some of the paramaters I have entered into my settings. The numbers in black are Cellmans recomendations and I somehow thought doing this I could have pas0 work with just the throttle only but no it does not seem to work like this. On pas 0 I still have the pas kicking in. I would prefer to have pas 0 set so I can so I can have full 100% throttle on the ready and either little or no pas kicking in on this setting. Is this possible with out clipping the grey wire like Karl shows on his site and achieve this but numbers entered into the BASIC PAGE SETTINGS?

 

[tommie]

strange - i know with my BBS02 i have that set to 1 and 1 and it`s throttle only on pas 0

 

[Dogboy1200]

View attachment 3 Having some initial good luck reprograming the motor. The surging is now gone and upping things to the 30 amps I am getting more power. Smooth power too so this is awesome. One main issue to fine tune and hoping for some help please.....the attached photo shows some of the paramaters I have entered into my settings. The numbers in black are Cellmans recomendations and I somehow thought doing this I could have pas0 work with just the throttle only but no it does not seem to work like this. On pas 0 I still have the pas kicking in. I would prefer to have pas 0 set so I can so I can have full 100% throttle on the ready and either little or no pas kicking in on this setting. Is this possible with out clipping the grey wire like Karl shows on his site and achieve this but numbers entered into the BASIC PAGE SETTINGS?

Here are the settings I used on my BBSHD. Throttle only in PAS 0.

 

[waynebergman]

EDIT.......I HAVE DELETED THE SCREEN SHOTS OF THE SETTINGS FIRST POSTED ON THIS PAGE AS THINGS CHANGED FOR THE BETTER SHOWN LATER IN THIS THREAD...............