Bafang rear hub motor + Bafang controller = vibration and noise when accelerating

[BARRACUDA77]

Hello

I have Bafang G062 1000W 48V rear hub motor

controller Bafang 1000W CAN protocol - 零部件

the hall sensors on the motor were changed - I was getting error 08 - the one with hall motor sensors.

I have another motor almost identical 1000w 48 V but that one has UART controller, display and pas sensor. THat has about 18000 kilometers and it runs almost completely silent at any speed and load, sometimes the sound of the motor is less than the sound of the tires on the street, and I have semi slicks.

On the other hand, this other motor is loud an vibrating below 12-14 kmh, more exactly when accelerating. Loud as in loud, I dont think this is the proper sound for a motor. (After accelerating and gaining momentum the sound is ok)

Batteries are from a german producer, 48Volt Samsung cells - 17Ah - 825Wh.

ANy ideas what it could be? Please help.

youtube videos in links

Sorry for the image shaking I was holding the phone with one hand while on the bike.

 

[E-HP]

Did you change the hall sensors yourself? Do you know what caused the failure (did it happen while riding?)?
It could be the wiring order of your phase and hall conductors, but an easier check first is to make sure your phase wire connections are good with no loose connections. The groaning noise can sometimes be associated with a loose or poor connection with one or more of the motor phase conductors.

 

[BARRACUDA77]

Did you change the hall sensors yourself? Do you know what caused the failure (did it happen while riding?)?

Hi,
No, the motor was showing error 08 as soon as I bought it and installed it. Went with the bike at ebike service and they told me waht the problem was, they changed the sensors with some honeywell bipolar sensors. At least this is what they told me. About the sound problem they said it can be the controller not being compatible. Motor, controller, pas sensor for Can protocol(its different from UART- Uart has 3 wires- CAN has 4 wires) and display were bought as a kit from the same vendor.

 

[E-HP]

About the sound problem they said it can be the controller not being compatible. Motor, pas sensor for Can protocol(its different from UART- Uart has 3 wires- CAN has 4 wires) and display were bought as a kit from the same vendor.

For all intents and purposes, the communication protocols only matter for the display communicating with the controller (or sometimes the battery on factory e-bikes). Has nothing to do with what happens between the controller and motor. Did they mention the protocols, or is it something you read? Hopefully they knew enough to install the hall sensors correctly.
I would first check the connectors. Then check that the halls are working correctly (see link). Then check the wiring order using the chart in the link (in the chart, you have noisy rotation, in the correct direction).

 

[BARRACUDA77]

Hi.
They didnt told me about protocols, I mentioned the protocols only because the can controller (new one) has the new red connector and the old one has the metalic connector, so I cannot test both controlers on each motor.

At service they shown me a movie before and after they did the repair, it was that hall sensor device checking with bliinking for ok sensors.

I checked and rechecked, cables, the xt conectors... I just dont feel too comfy buing another controller wich could act the same as this one.

Also, eror 08 was gone after service. Now I have only that annoying sound.
Thanks for helping, you mentioned a link. I dont see it?!

 

[E-HP]

Thanks for helping, you mentioned a link. I dont see it?!

oops, sorry about that.

Testing BLDC motor's Phase Wiring - Hall Sensors and Wiring. - Electricbike.com Ebike Forum

Testing electrical components of a typical hub motor with a digital multi meter. First take a few minuets and look over the wiring going into the motor for cuts, scrapes, missing insulation and other wiring issues or poor connections that should be resolved first. Smell for...

electricbike.com

Might not help in your case, you don’t have a way to reconfigure the wiring with those types of connectors. There is a possibility that they connected the halls inside the motor in a different order, which would still pass the tester test.
If you replaced the controller, you’d probably need to deal with changing connectors since you probably won’t find a plug n play option, but sounds like that might be too much DIYing for you. Cutting the motor cable and testing then resoldering to change the wiring order without opening the motor would also be an option, but again, lots of DIYing.

 

[BARRACUDA77]

oops, sorry about that.

Testing BLDC motor's Phase Wiring - Hall Sensors and Wiring. - Electricbike.com Ebike Forum

Testing electrical components of a typical hub motor with a digital multi meter. First take a few minuets and look over the wiring going into the motor for cuts, scrapes, missing insulation and other wiring issues or poor connections that should be resolved first. Smell for...

electricbike.com

Might not help in your case, you don’t have a way to reconfigure the wiring with those types of connectors. There is a possibility that they connected the halls inside the motor in a different order, which would still pass the tester test.
If you replaced the controller, you’d probably need to deal with changing connectors since you probably won’t find a plug n play option, but sounds like that might be too much DIYing for you. Cutting the motor cable and testing then resoldering to change the wiring order without opening the motor would also be an option, but again, lots of DIYing.

Hi. I just found an orddered this

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007541592456.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.50.675e1802wxR6Jc

Hopefully after it arrives I can test new motor with old display and old controller, assuming that cable is correctly wired.
From what i've read on other "sound motor" topics, other controller solved the problem. Thanks anyway for the help.


Later edit. Just found these wiring diagrams, maybe it helps someone.

Julet L1121 wiring diagram
L1019 wiring diagram

I think i'll make an adapter cable myself and test old display+controller on new motor. Wish me good soldering! I will post after I fix.

 

[amberwolf]

n the other hand, this other motor is loud an vibrating below 12-14 kmh, more exactly when accelerating. Loud as in loud, I dont think this is the proper sound for a motor. (After accelerating and gaining momentum the sound is ok)

Most commonly, a problem during acceleration or under other high load situations is a phase/hall issue, either a wrong combination (miswire, perhaps the servicers changed the hall wire order while they were working inside the motor), or a problem with one or more hall sensors themselves.

there are multiple types of ahll sensors used in motors, the most common of which is a bipolar latching open-collector type, sucha s honeywell ss41 / 411 or some clone thereof. but some of them use unipolar, some use non-latching, because the controller is designed for those types of signals instead. Each one will create a different pattern of signals from the motor and if the controller gets one pattern but expects another, it will affect the timing with which it sends the phase currents to the motor, and that can make a motor run rough or loudly (though it usually still operates "correctly").


Another possibility is a gear problem, or a bearing problem in the planetary gears. The harder they are being driven, the more apparent these problems can be. It could be something as innocuous as a bit of wire insulation or drop of solder that got into the gear grease and is now embedded in the plastic of one of the planets. Or it could be something as bad as a broken tooth (or multiple) on one of hte planets. Or if the bearings are like the ones in one of my smallest geared hubmtors, an ancient tongxin, they're individual roller pins and can come out and get lost during motor disassembly--if they lost one or more of them the gears may not spin right, being off-axis so more loaded at certain parts of their rotation than others, and make noise and vibration from that.

Can be debris on the magnet ring of the rotor, too.

Could even be the side cover not being machined perfectly round, so it only "works" in one specific position, and any other position means the wheel "hops" a tiny bit and can make it vibrate. This is usually worse at higher speeds than lower, though, and will be apparent with or without motor operation.

 

[BARRACUDA77]

Most commonly, a problem during acceleration or under other high load situations is a phase/hall issue, either a wrong combination (miswire, perhaps the servicers changed the hall wire order while they were working inside the motor), or a problem with one or more hall sensors themselves.

there are multiple types of ahll sensors used in motors, the most common of which is a bipolar latching open-collector type, sucha s honeywell ss41 / 411 or some clone thereof. but some of them use unipolar, some use non-latching, because the controller is designed for those types of signals instead. Each one will create a different pattern of signals from the motor and if the controller gets one pattern but expects another, it will affect the timing with which it sends the phase currents to the motor, and that can make a motor run rough or loudly (though it usually still operates "correctly").


Another possibility is a gear problem, or a bearing problem in the planetary gears. The harder they are being driven, the more apparent these problems can be. It could be something as innocuous as a bit of wire insulation or drop of solder that got into the gear grease and is now embedded in the plastic of one of the planets. Or it could be something as bad as a broken tooth (or multiple) on one of hte planets. Or if the bearings are like the ones in one of my smallest geared hubmtors, an ancient tongxin, they're individual roller pins and can come out and get lost during motor disassembly--if they lost one or more of them the gears may not spin right, being off-axis so more loaded at certain parts of their rotation than others, and make noise and vibration from that.

Can be debris on the magnet ring of the rotor, too.

Could even be the side cover not being machined perfectly round, so it only "works" in one specific position, and any other position means the wheel "hops" a tiny bit and can make it vibrate. This is usually worse at higher speeds than lower, though, and will be apparent with or without motor operation.

Hi.
Same motor, different controller.
(CAN to UART so different PAS sensor + different display)
Sound is gone. Thank you all very much.

Any chance that UART display an CAN display difference is only in the shape of the connector? Could it be possible to cut the connector on CAN display to put colour on colour wires and make it work?
Or the difference in protocols does not allow that?

 

[E-HP]

Any chance that UART display an CAN display difference is only in the shape of the connector? Could it be possible to cut the connector on CAN display to put colour on colour wires and make it work?
Or the difference in protocols does not allow that?

Think of the communication protocols as languages. If the display is speaking French and the controller only understands Spanish, you likely have a communications issue.