tomjasz
1 GW
“ 48v controller but limited to 24 amps”
Blather. Never happened. 28A and 48V for ultimate reliability.
Blather. Never happened. 28A and 48V for ultimate reliability.
BBSHD Voltage Problem Firmware Update & Instructions
- Thread starter amberwolf
- Start date
tomjasz
1 GW
Can anyone confirm this 24A version of firmware? Sounds whacky. 5 years of CS calls and emails for BBSHD reseller and this is a new twist for me. I didn’t see drives frying in mountain use at 28A or 30A. Not mountain use but hundreds of pedicabs are running t 28and 30A without issues.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
I've done some pretty brutal climbs at 30A with no issues, but I suppose if you held it at 30A long enough, you could melt the plastic gear.
tomjasz
1 GW
fechter said:
Thank you! Have you ever heard of a 24A firmware?
No. I’m sure it’s possible but haven’t heard of it before. You can just program lower limits with the config tool if you want a lower limit.
tomjasz
1 GW
I’m confused, or was 24A a mistype? Is that why you edited your post?Ranchero said:
Ranchero said:Latest Firmware for 52V controller with 48Vbattery, for free for you all, i paid
Change extension txt to bin
CRR10E4824E105028.1_APP.txt
Has anyone tried this, how does it compare to CRR10E4830E105027.1_(latest)_190927.bin ?
EDIT: This got to be for BBS02, i flashed it and BBSHD is not really working, just gives 30H error. Luckily rolling back to
RR10E4830E105027.1_(latest)_190927.bin worked. Ranchero could you confirm what motor you are running?
Here's a file I found on the Eunorau website FAQ https://eunorau-ebike.com/pages/faqs which also promises to be 52v 30a, haven't tried it though. Change .txt -> .bin if you are to flash this.
View attachment CR4830_for notemperature_hebin.txt
Hi everyone. Had to join this discussion to ask because I’ve had a bit of a struggle comprehending everything as a bit of a noob to it all, although I think this is what I need to do to solve my issues as it has seeming fixed others. My BBSHD has a 52v 17.5 ah battery, but my DPC18 only shows around 53v with a full charge despite my multimeter showing the battery being at 58v. The biggest issue with this is that when I get to around 46-47v, I get capped at 500w, and my multimeter will be showing 50-51w! What firmware should I be using to fix this as I really am not getting the range that I could be. Thanks!
Attachments
Well if you ask me CRR10E4830E105027.1_(latest)_190927.bin is the best one available at the moment.
I have no complaints with it. PAS works as it should and doesn't cut power.
Try with the firmware. It will solve your power cutting problem. But fully charged battery showing as 53v on the display seems like a whole another (possibly hardware?) issue.
I have no complaints with it. PAS works as it should and doesn't cut power.
Try with the firmware. It will solve your power cutting problem. But fully charged battery showing as 53v on the display seems like a whole another (possibly hardware?) issue.
AZeBikeGuy
100 W
I was thinking the same - the display typically measures voltage directly from the battery
tdirider said:
Well I just flashed it and like you guessed, it didnt change that. Fingers crossed my issues with everything else has disappeared. Do you recon I could have killed something on the controller? I do feel like it did at least once display 58v.
The display I'm pretty sure receives battery voltage and measures it itself so I think it's worth (very carefully not to short something) checking what it gets.
This is the pinout:
If the wiring harness has your actual battery voltage, the controller is fine and the issue is within the display and the other way around.
This is the pinout:
If the wiring harness has your actual battery voltage, the controller is fine and the issue is within the display and the other way around.
tdirider said:The display I'm pretty sure receives battery voltage and measures it itself so I think it's worth (very carefully not to short something) checking what it gets.
This is the pinout:
If the wiring harness has your actual battery voltage, the controller is fine and the issue is within the display and the other way around.
Thank you so much for this tip! Just tested it (mirrored because that image is for the female display side connector) and I've got 55v (battery has been used for a few miles since charging), but the display shows 51v. Interesting, I wonder what's causing this.
tomjasz
1 GW
Some display versions will not accurately display 52V battery full voltage 58.8V
tomjasz
1 GW
Yes, newer versions support it. You may have an older display. It won't affect power delivery.
Display from a reliable source?
Display from a reliable source?
Not exactly the thread topic, but there have been multiple comments regarding low-voltage cutoff and/or current restriction for various firmware versions discussed here, hence my post. If it would be better served as a standalone thread, I'm happy to revise.
I've got two BBSHD bikes, each with a fairly large custom-built 12S battery pack - one 12S12P (~1500wh) and another 12S18P(~2300wh). So with 44V nominal packs, I'm a tick below the 48V and 52V mostly being discussed. I will say however that 12S/44V gives PLENTY of cadence with the BBSHD, so there's no reason for it to be an 'unsupported' voltage.
But that's essentially what it is, as the BBSHD voltage-based current restriction is driving me MAD. Once I hit 42V (3.5v/cell), current is limited to 12A MAX. And that's after starting to limit current to ~20A at 43V, then ~15A in the mid-42V range, and then 11-12A from 42V on down... (keep in mind voltage sag is pretty minimal on my large capacity packs, so that's not what's causing the issue)
I've read this thread in detail and tried every FW suggested. And the issue occurs on EVERY one of the FW's discussed here. Here's what I've tried:
CRR10E4830E105027.1_(latest)_190927.bin
CRR10E4830E105016.1_合并.bin
CRR10E4830E105027.1_19.bin
CRR10E4830E105016.1_19.bin
CRR10E4830E105001.1_190413-1.bin
CR4830_for notemperature_hebin.bin
Each and every one of them limits current to 11-12A at 42V or lower.
(I've always set the LVC to the lowest level - 38V - and even tried 40V and 41V just to see if it was any different. It wasn't)
So I essentially cannot use 40%+ of the wh of my packs, as by mid-42V it's already starting to become an issue (power cut by half).
Does anyone have any other ideas that I might try? Other firmware versions that might not have this restriction?
If not, I'm wondering if I may have to give that opensource BBSHD firmware a try, despite the throttle issues the developer was unable to solve (and the reason he abandoned further dev). Has anyone tried this?
OR I'll just have to change the controller? Anyone know if Luna is still selling their Ludicrous controller? Any other options worth exploring?
LOVE these BBSHD bikes, and love VERY long rides, so if I can just use the full wh of my packs I'll be a very happy camper.
Thanks all!
I've got two BBSHD bikes, each with a fairly large custom-built 12S battery pack - one 12S12P (~1500wh) and another 12S18P(~2300wh). So with 44V nominal packs, I'm a tick below the 48V and 52V mostly being discussed. I will say however that 12S/44V gives PLENTY of cadence with the BBSHD, so there's no reason for it to be an 'unsupported' voltage.
But that's essentially what it is, as the BBSHD voltage-based current restriction is driving me MAD. Once I hit 42V (3.5v/cell), current is limited to 12A MAX. And that's after starting to limit current to ~20A at 43V, then ~15A in the mid-42V range, and then 11-12A from 42V on down... (keep in mind voltage sag is pretty minimal on my large capacity packs, so that's not what's causing the issue)
I've read this thread in detail and tried every FW suggested. And the issue occurs on EVERY one of the FW's discussed here. Here's what I've tried:
CRR10E4830E105027.1_(latest)_190927.bin
CRR10E4830E105016.1_合并.bin
CRR10E4830E105027.1_19.bin
CRR10E4830E105016.1_19.bin
CRR10E4830E105001.1_190413-1.bin
CR4830_for notemperature_hebin.bin
Each and every one of them limits current to 11-12A at 42V or lower.
(I've always set the LVC to the lowest level - 38V - and even tried 40V and 41V just to see if it was any different. It wasn't)
So I essentially cannot use 40%+ of the wh of my packs, as by mid-42V it's already starting to become an issue (power cut by half).
Does anyone have any other ideas that I might try? Other firmware versions that might not have this restriction?
If not, I'm wondering if I may have to give that opensource BBSHD firmware a try, despite the throttle issues the developer was unable to solve (and the reason he abandoned further dev). Has anyone tried this?
OR I'll just have to change the controller? Anyone know if Luna is still selling their Ludicrous controller? Any other options worth exploring?
LOVE these BBSHD bikes, and love VERY long rides, so if I can just use the full wh of my packs I'll be a very happy camper.
Thanks all!
I think it might be worth exploring the idea of doing some kind of a (simple?) hardware resistor mod, similar to the shunt mod https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=83778, which has an effect on the circuit that's measuring voltage?
I haven't ever thought about it, neither do I have any idea where to start. Maybe the smarter people around here could help.
I haven't ever thought about it, neither do I have any idea where to start. Maybe the smarter people around here could help.
Thanks tdirider. I can't think of how you could modify the voltage read circuitry in a similar fashion, as the voltage read is likely taken directly from the battery in that feeds the motor drive FETs.. Am I missing something?
HOWEVER, you did just make me realize that perhaps a simple 50% shunt mod would also do the trick - that way the 12A limited current would actually be 24A (good enough). I could simply set up PAS1-9 so that 1-7 scales from 10-50% and then 8 is 75% and 9 is 100% and only use 8 and 9 after the current limiting kicks in - or on REALLY steep hills
Any good youtube videos out there showing the controller depotting/removal?
Btw, I think my comment about voltage sag may have been confusing - all the voltage levels I'm mentioning are under load - i.e. what the readout is on the 860C display while riding. So the 12A restriction is hitting when voltage under load is 42V or lower (about 43V at rest).
HOWEVER, you did just make me realize that perhaps a simple 50% shunt mod would also do the trick - that way the 12A limited current would actually be 24A (good enough). I could simply set up PAS1-9 so that 1-7 scales from 10-50% and then 8 is 75% and 9 is 100% and only use 8 and 9 after the current limiting kicks in - or on REALLY steep hills
Any good youtube videos out there showing the controller depotting/removal?
Btw, I think my comment about voltage sag may have been confusing - all the voltage levels I'm mentioning are under load - i.e. what the readout is on the 860C display while riding. So the 12A restriction is hitting when voltage under load is 42V or lower (about 43V at rest).
Your idea doesn't sound bad.
Removing the controller was pretty easy in my experience. What I recommend doing is drilling some shallow 3.5mm holes in the aluminum heatsink that the MOSFETs are screwed into and screwing some coarse thread screws 1-2 turns in. 2 of them in each end were enough for mine to come out by pulling evenly with pliers. I didn't touch any potting except what's right on the shunts, thus keeping everything as waterproof as possible.
Also have some thermal paste on hand to apply between the MOSFET heatsink an the casing itself on reassembly.
I soldered an additional R006 resistor on top of the existing 2 R005s, which gives about 40-42amps, but maybe you should go lower, like R003-001? and limit stuff in settings. Or just replace the existing 2 altogether.
Removing the controller was pretty easy in my experience. What I recommend doing is drilling some shallow 3.5mm holes in the aluminum heatsink that the MOSFETs are screwed into and screwing some coarse thread screws 1-2 turns in. 2 of them in each end were enough for mine to come out by pulling evenly with pliers. I didn't touch any potting except what's right on the shunts, thus keeping everything as waterproof as possible.
Also have some thermal paste on hand to apply between the MOSFET heatsink an the casing itself on reassembly.
I soldered an additional R006 resistor on top of the existing 2 R005s, which gives about 40-42amps, but maybe you should go lower, like R003-001? and limit stuff in settings. Or just replace the existing 2 altogether.
jeffNYC said:
Well there is, the controller doesn't know what the battery nominal voltage is so you run the risk of over discharging a 48V pack. 44V is a bit of an odd ball since batteries evolved from the 12V lead acid era so it's not exactly surprising they didn't design motors around it. (52V support is really just a lucky happenstance, well lucky if you happen to have the right firmware that is
)One solution would be to run the packs in series and go with a BAC controller. Heavy and expensive, plus you lose the slick built-in controller look but you'd get where you're going faster. If you're going the external controller route anyways you could just use a 44V one.
The other you might consider is a 1S booster pack to top up the voltage to 48V. That's probably what I would do since it's fairly inexpensive. The problem is the BMS and whether or not you're using it to discharge. You'd also probably have to run 2 chargers, a 4V for the booster and your 44V one. If you went with a larger 1S18P I think you can getaway with just one.
I think that would work but I may be overlooking something. In order to splice in the booster but still be able to charge it you'd have to probably switch to Anderson connectors because I don't believe XT offers any solutions.
I'm not sure you'll actually be able to trick the controller into reading 4V more than actual. I've never seen anyone do it so I'm not sure how it's done, unlike the shunt mod. Plus I'm not sure if you do you won't run in to other circuits like the hall sensor not being properly excited. I'm thinking you may need to swap to a BBS01 36V controller and overvolting it. I think that's what people did but I'm not 100% on that. Add you'd be limited to 24A and possibly run into heating issues.
That's all I can think off off hand. Best of luck!
I'm wondering if anyone else is having a problem with motor power very briefly cutting out at high cadence pedal assist.
It cuts out for about a half second at a time every few seconds when peddling fast.
BBSHD with Eggrider display, Flashed CRR10E4830E105027.1_(latest)_190927 firmware. My "keep current" setting is set to 100% so that shouldn't be the problem.
I don't remember having this issue before flashing the firmware from whatever stock was. I flashed to get rid of the throttle/pas issue and the severe power cut at lower voltages. just curious if anyone else has experienced this on this firmware?
It cuts out for about a half second at a time every few seconds when peddling fast.
BBSHD with Eggrider display, Flashed CRR10E4830E105027.1_(latest)_190927 firmware. My "keep current" setting is set to 100% so that shouldn't be the problem.
I don't remember having this issue before flashing the firmware from whatever stock was. I flashed to get rid of the throttle/pas issue and the severe power cut at lower voltages. just curious if anyone else has experienced this on this firmware?
eric49a said:
I'm using the same firmware and haven't noticed it, although I typically don't pedal "fast" since I can't keep up with the motor. I'm usually on the throttle for high cadence.
It's probably best if you make a new thread and post your settings to try and trouble shoot the issue.
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