Bewo, New Crank-drive Motor

No drive- Check if the chainwheel threads are stripped, the drive shaft will run but the chain wheel will remain stopped. The drive is transferred to the chainwheel via the thread only. If your threads are stripped inspect the drive shaft for a hairline crack across the thread. This will require replacement of the main drive gear and a new chainwheel. These can be purchased from the factory and cost 100 GBP. Why this heavy shaft cracks is a mystery but I suspect heat treatment stresses may be the culprit.
 
Thanks for all the information about the Bewo mid drive.
I'm running the 350W 36V on a cargo bike (Christiania Bike), for around 2000 km now. But like i can read in this thread, i have problems with the crankshaft and the small bearing. When i crack it open, all the small balls from the bearing was all over. I'v had a hard time finding the right bearing. Can you guys tell me what bearing to go with?

And can you tell me how grease the clutch?

https://ibb.co/McQ4BBn
https://ibb.co/0t9bDwt
https://ibb.co/LrSgQ5V
https://ibb.co/DGbm8MG
 
This thread seems quite dead now, but just a little update...
I crossed over 10,000 kms a few weeks ago. Never had a single problem. I use the 250w motor on my heavy christiania bike (Cargo Trike). im only using a 36v battery and i think it maxes out at about 500W when im really pushing the bike. Im usually hauling at least 2 kids and sometimes my wife plus the two kids. So quite a bit of weight (not saying my wife is fat, shes far from it, but it still adds weight).
I have been meaning to open it up and regrease it for about a year now, but havent gotten around to it, but it still seems to be fine. Ill probably buy some grease very soon and do it within the next month or two before winter hits.
I was thinking about mobilgrease 28, but does anyone have any other recommendations? and also how hard is it to disassemble and regrease?

The only problem i had was the throttle stopped working, but that doesnt really matter so much. Its been in the rain/sun/snow 24 hours a day 7 days a week uncovered. The motor itself has changed colours a bit. its brownish (i think... im colourblind and it could be orange).

Its still quiet as ever, but it does click when i manually push the bike backwards. Someone mentioned that this is a sign that it needs greasing. Also, ive had to tighten it up maybe 6 months ago because it started making a lot of creaking noises... it was just loose and now its silent again.

I have a BBSHD and its a hell of a lot more powerfull, but its also a lot more expensive. I would definitely recommend this Bewo if you're looking for a cheap small mid drive. I only got it because i BBSHD wouldnt fit on this particular bike because the motor has to sit above the BB and the BBSHD is too large in diameter to fit in the tight triangle.
 
halo, i am new her and have problems on removing the chain wheel off the bewo middle motor Does anyone have info on how to best get the chain wheel off and witch tool i need for it

thanks for any help
 
tecfiel said:
halo, i am new her and have problems on removing the chain wheel off the bewo middle motor Does anyone have info on how to best get the chain wheel off and witch tool i need for it

thanks for any help

Im about to disassemble it and regrease the internals... Ill check it out and get back to you in a day or two.
 
pnissen84 said:
Thanks for all the information about the Bewo mid drive.
I'm running the 350W 36V on a cargo bike (Christiania Bike), for around 2000 km now. But like i can read in this thread, i have problems with the crankshaft and the small bearing. When i crack it open, all the small balls from the bearing was all over. I'v had a hard time finding the right bearing. Can you guys tell me what bearing to go with?

And can you tell me how grease the clutch?

https://ibb.co/McQ4BBn
https://ibb.co/0t9bDwt
https://ibb.co/LrSgQ5V
https://ibb.co/DGbm8MG

i will be opening up the bewo today or tomorrow to regrease the internals. could you explain how your process went? Was it pretty straightfoward?
 
A bomb with crap support.
 
pnissen84 said:
Thanks for all the information about the Bewo mid drive.
I'm running the 350W 36V on a cargo bike (Christiania Bike), for around 2000 km now. But like i can read in this thread, i have problems with the crankshaft and the small bearing. When i crack it open, all the small balls from the bearing was all over. I'v had a hard time finding the right bearing. Can you guys tell me what bearing to go with?

And can you tell me how grease the clutch?

https://ibb.co/McQ4BBn
https://ibb.co/0t9bDwt
https://ibb.co/LrSgQ5V
https://ibb.co/DGbm8MG

I don't have the special tool to revive the locking nut. I tried with a screw driver and hammer, but it won't move. I'm wondering if I'm hammering the wrong way. Are they reverse threads?
 
Been running mine 14 months now, 48v @15amps, (max amps can be set from the panel), no problems. Dismantled and greased once, I made the tool to remove the chainwheel. Otherwise regular tools. The motor shaft is supported at it's outer end in a needle roller bearing located in the outer case. This is quite small and could be overlooked when greasing if unfamiliar with such things. It's a single stage reduction, single helical gear with appropriate thrust bearings. Overall an excellent unit, suits my use perfectly, that it may not suit others does not make them wrong or misguided.

Some observations, A sign that greasing is required is a chattering noise when pushing the bike backwards. The original grease was a bit sparse, packing with good quality Lithium grease has transformed the running and all but eliminated the 'back chatter'. The now well packed gearcase may need a breather pipe at some point.
The response on the pedal sensor is adjustable on the the panel from instant to a delay to suit you. I like instant but take care if pushing the bike with power on, any turning of the cranks by chain drag or catching on something will cause the bike to leap forward ,so switch off, or one finger round the brake lever every time. A good point is instant cut off on both brakes and pedal sensor. There is no over run at all. The motor,controller and all wiring plugs are waterproof ,don't ask how I know this, just read the instant response bit again.
Hi, you say you made a tool to remove the chain wheel. Could you please share a photo of this tool or point me in the direction where I might be able to buy one. Thanks
 
I’m sorry that’s so long ago and I no longer have anything related to Bewo
 
Привет, вы говорите, что сделали инструмент для снятия звездочки. Не могли бы вы поделиться фотографией этого инструмента или указать мне направление, где я мог бы его купить. Спасибо
Инструмент для снятия звездочки выглядит так. Но он абсолютно бесполезен, т.к. для разборки редуктора BEWO его снимать не нужно.
 

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I live in Belarus and here we have this engine for Forsage stroller and Forsage Fusion bikes. For 2 years I drove 2600 kilometers. I disassembled the motor and there was enough lubrication there, the tightness was preserved. Only the paint peeled off the body of silumin.
 
Здравствуйте, я ищу педальную ось для bewo 250w, может ли кто-нибудь мне помочь?
 

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In case this is of help to anyone in the future.
I picked up a bike with a bewo motor with a worn out sprag clutch.
Same symptoms as a previous poster, pedals don't drive the chain ring, but the motor does.

I couldn't find an exact replacement part, but I found one that works, which is a DC2222G
These can be bought from ali express for < $20
They are the same ID (22.225mm) and OD (38.885mm) as the original, but they are a bit narrower, the original is 13.3mm and the DC2222G is 10mm, so requires spacers to fill the gap.

The crank case cover can be removed without removing the chain ring so no need for the special tool, you can do this first by removing the chainring side crank arm with a standard crank puller (and some heat to get it unstuck in my case) then a little awkwardly with a ball ended Allen key, undoing all the screws behind the chain ring a bit at a time until the side cover can be pulled off, taking the chain ring with it.

Then to get the sprag clutch out you have to work the small bearing out (unless it decided to stay on the spindle) then remove the circlip with a pair of circlip pliers, then out comes a retaining washer and the old sprag clutch.

For spacers for the new sprag clutch I used the cage washers of the original sprag clutch, this is just held together with a spring and wire and can be easily picked apart with a small flat head screw driver. The cage washers come to ~4mm thickness together, I sanded down the finger side of one of them against a piece of low grit sand paper laid flat on a table until it the cage washers and sprag clutch were able to fit underneath the retaining washer and circlip. (This ended up requiring about .5mm of sanding so there must have been about .2mm clearance in the original arrangement)
I sandwiched the new sprag clutch between the two cage washers, facing their fingers away from the sprag clutch as otherwise they interfere with the sprags.

For reassembly I found it was useful to put a small chamfer on the step on the crank spindle where the sprag clutch rides. As it's quite a tight fit and otherwise hard to get it to slip over. I did this with a flap disc on an angle grinder in one hand while rotating the crank with the other, but I wouldn't recommend this method unless you're quite steady with the angle grinder, a hand file would get you the same result with a bit of patience.

Sorry, I didn't take any photos at the time.
 
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