Bewo, New Crank-drive Motor
- Thread starter d8veh
- Start date
bgt
100 W
tomjasz said:
My Bafang BBS01/02 motors did far over 10.000km already. Took them apart and greased them. No problems of worn bearings or teethwheels
Very happy with them.[moderator edit to fix quote]
tomjasz
1 GW
My only disappointment is sorting the repairs when it does come time. Bafang is very confusing and hard to keep track of. Another controller change and vendors learn by error and omission. STILL no serial numbers to track versions. But they do run as you said. I love my BBS01's I hope I can sort the pinion, pinion plate, and gear fiasco.bgt said:tomjasz said:
My Bafang BBS01/02 motors did far over 10.000km already. Took them apart and greased them. No problems of worn bearings or teethwheels
[moderator edit to fix quote]
hey steamboy, if i remember correctly its not easy to change the axle,because its presfit in the rotor. I never changed the axle with the origin motor, i used an rc motor.
I know You can order the axle as a part but maybe also with the rotor mounted on as one part?
Ask bewo directly they answer mails correctly.
I know You can order the axle as a part but maybe also with the rotor mounted on as one part?
Ask bewo directly they answer mails correctly.
tomjasz
1 GW
Tushar D said:
Too funny. All that chatter about a weak plastic gear and 2 1/2 years later no failure. But the superior motor broke an axel.
No joy in that. Bafang needs competition! But it is funny considering how Kiriakos ranted...
steamboy
1 mW
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2015
- Messages
- 12
not sure how Kiriakos broke his axle but mine gets really hard punch from chain stuck in the derailleur, while the motor runs at maximum speed. the derailleur was completely destroyed. before that the motor work excellent - 1400w at peak on 48v lipo battery pack, steep hills on high gear eating like cake (25 kg fat tire bike w battery + 75kg live payload).
thanks for help just write to Bewo, will report if the repair were a success.
thanks for help just write to Bewo, will report if the repair were a success.
Here is the link about Kiriakos
http://www.ittsb.eu/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=b6809c5b231c17c27cf95b6b104dee45&topic=963.30
Bewo sent him special tools to install the crank
I have also bought the 36v 350w kit. Yet to install and test.
The quality and build seems good, but the weakest point so far seems to be the Crank.
Will post update once i install the kit.
http://www.ittsb.eu/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=b6809c5b231c17c27cf95b6b104dee45&topic=963.30
Bewo sent him special tools to install the crank
I have also bought the 36v 350w kit. Yet to install and test.
The quality and build seems good, but the weakest point so far seems to be the Crank.
Will post update once i install the kit.
tomjasz
1 GW
Not at all helpful. Would have been nice to have pictures of part and tools rather then another beauty pose.Tushar D said:
tomjasz
1 GW
The link he says failed bearing, on Facebook something about concrete.steamboy said:
tahustvedt
10 kW
What? it broke? I though it was perfect in every way.
Dumsterdave
100 W
Any updates on how everyone's bewo is doing?
Springforward
1 mW
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2017
- Messages
- 15
Been running mine 14 months now, 48v @15amps, (max amps can be set from the panel), no problems. Dismantled and greased once, I made the tool to remove the chainwheel. Otherwise regular tools. The motor shaft is supported at it's outer end in a needle roller bearing located in the outer case. This is quite small and could be overlooked when greasing if unfamiliar with such things. It's a single stage reduction, single helical gear with appropriate thrust bearings. Overall an excellent unit, suits my use perfectly, that it may not suit others does not make them wrong or misguided.
Some observations, A sign that greasing is required is a chattering noise when pushing the bike backwards. The original grease was a bit sparse, packing with good quality Lithium grease has transformed the running and all but eliminated the 'back chatter'. The now well packed gearcase may need a breather pipe at some point.
The response on the pedal sensor is adjustable on the the panel from instant to a delay to suit you. I like instant but take care if pushing the bike with power on, any turning of the cranks by chain drag or catching on something will cause the bike to leap forward ,so switch off, or one finger round the brake lever every time. A good point is instant cut off on both brakes and pedal sensor. There is no over run at all. The motor,controller and all wiring plugs are waterproof ,don't ask how I know this, just read the instant response bit again.
Some observations, A sign that greasing is required is a chattering noise when pushing the bike backwards. The original grease was a bit sparse, packing with good quality Lithium grease has transformed the running and all but eliminated the 'back chatter'. The now well packed gearcase may need a breather pipe at some point.
The response on the pedal sensor is adjustable on the the panel from instant to a delay to suit you. I like instant but take care if pushing the bike with power on, any turning of the cranks by chain drag or catching on something will cause the bike to leap forward ,so switch off, or one finger round the brake lever every time. A good point is instant cut off on both brakes and pedal sensor. There is no over run at all. The motor,controller and all wiring plugs are waterproof ,don't ask how I know this, just read the instant response bit again.
mmmpretzels
1 µW
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2018
- Messages
- 1
Hi All,
I have a Powerider Force that uses the Bewo 250w motor; bought it online from Justride in Melbourne back in early 2016 (I'm in Brisbane).
I sent it back to them after a couple of months as the motor was making a grinding/binding noise; they reckoned the motor was loose and said it likely due to extra vibration from me putting on puncture-proof tyres (Tannus Tyres - happy with these I'm doubtful they were the source of the problem though). Since the bike came back no motor issues though, until...
A couple of weeks ago, go to pedal off and makes a cracking noise. It's gotten progressively worse.
I think it could be a broken pedal axle, or whatever part links the crank/axle inside to then drive the chainwheel. If I pedal, even with no assistance, makes cracking noise and doesn't seem to provide drive to chainwheel properly. With bike stationary and some pushing on pedals it feels "springy", whereas it used to have a solid feedback.
It doesn't seem to be the motor itself, as if I just use the throttle the bike takes off smooth & noise free.
Does anyone have info on how to best get the chainwheel off without specialised tools? Hoping to get the motor open so I can see what the actual problem is, and if it can be fixed, rather than spending $$$ on a replacement.
I have not yet tried contacting Bewo directly to see if they can provide spare parts (although a friend mentioned they might know someone near Brisbane who could fabricate small motor parts).
Thank in advance y'all
I have a Powerider Force that uses the Bewo 250w motor; bought it online from Justride in Melbourne back in early 2016 (I'm in Brisbane).
I sent it back to them after a couple of months as the motor was making a grinding/binding noise; they reckoned the motor was loose and said it likely due to extra vibration from me putting on puncture-proof tyres (Tannus Tyres - happy with these
I'm doubtful they were the source of the problem though). Since the bike came back no motor issues though, until...A couple of weeks ago, go to pedal off and makes a cracking noise. It's gotten progressively worse.
I think it could be a broken pedal axle, or whatever part links the crank/axle inside to then drive the chainwheel. If I pedal, even with no assistance, makes cracking noise and doesn't seem to provide drive to chainwheel properly. With bike stationary and some pushing on pedals it feels "springy", whereas it used to have a solid feedback.
It doesn't seem to be the motor itself, as if I just use the throttle the bike takes off smooth & noise free.
Does anyone have info on how to best get the chainwheel off without specialised tools? Hoping to get the motor open so I can see what the actual problem is, and if it can be fixed, rather than spending $$$ on a replacement.
I have not yet tried contacting Bewo directly to see if they can provide spare parts (although a friend mentioned they might know someone near Brisbane who could fabricate small motor parts).
Thank in advance y'all
Springforward
1 mW
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2017
- Messages
- 15
PM sent.
Springforward
1 mW
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2017
- Messages
- 15
The Bewo gear case is very sparse on grease from the Factory. Your problem is possibly this. There is a sprag clutch which engages as soon as you pedal and this may be dry. The gear case really needs to be opened and well packed with a good lithium grease. I have sent you some info on the chain wheel tool ,feel free to post it publicly. The fact that it is quiet on motor only points to the clutch. The main reduction gear is a very neat unit incorporating the main bearing, clutch and thrust bearings in a single slim unit. It's weakness is lubrication. I am considering converting mine to an oil bath using hypoid gear oil rather than grease. Grease tends to get thrown off parts leaving them dry. Oil will spread constantly over the parts but oil drag and the exact level will have to be determined by test. The most vulnerable part in my opinion is the small needle roller bearing supporting the motor shaft. If this ever runs dry the shaft will seize and break.
I would suggest that you stop using the unit until you can grease it properly.
Info on Sprags https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sprag_clutch
I would suggest that you stop using the unit until you can grease it properly.
Info on Sprags https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sprag_clutch
My Fat Bike, 13 month old, 2800km, Bewo makes Crackling noise and needs chainwheel change.
The noise gets worse and is happening with bigger load from motor. If I pedal, there is less noise and if I use moderate power from motor and pedal, there is no noise.
Any advice?
I also need to change sprocket, but it needs some kind of special tool. Any picture or advise what kind of tool to use?
Thank you
Vesa/Finland
The noise gets worse and is happening with bigger load from motor. If I pedal, there is less noise and if I use moderate power from motor and pedal, there is no noise.
Any advice?
I also need to change sprocket, but it needs some kind of special tool. Any picture or advise what kind of tool to use?
Thank you
Vesa/Finland
Vesa, the I think the chainring needs a 4-pin 43mm od socket, lukkomutteriavain in Finnish, You can find it for example in motorcycle shops.
Then to another matter. My friends motor has stopped working. The motor spins fine but gives absolutely no power to the chainring. There is virtually no vibration on grinding noise. What do you guys think about this?
Then to another matter. My friends motor has stopped working. The motor spins fine but gives absolutely no power to the chainring. There is virtually no vibration on grinding noise. What do you guys think about this?
Hillhater
100 TW
Either a gear is stripped, or one of the freewheel clutches os broken.
Strip it down and inspect it.
Strip it down and inspect it.
Dumsterdave
100 W
I'm only running 250w, but I just crossed 5000 kilometres on my cargo trike. Often hauling 150kg+plus driver and bike. Definitely s lot less power than my bbshd, but I'm quite impressed with the bewo. Zero maintainance, but I'll probably crack it open soon and grease the gears.
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