Bike battery has died

[MaximilianMM]

Hi there.

My Unit Pack Power battery just conked out. It was working fine, and now it won't charge. If I plug it in I get a response from the led charge indicator, but otherwise not.

Is there anything I can do? I'm not experienced with batteries. Or is it just best to get a new one?

Cheers

 

[jetpackjbd]

Hi there.

My Unit Pack Power battery just conked out. It was working fine, and now it won't charge. If I plug it in I get a response from the led charge indicator, but otherwise not.

Is there anything I can do? I'm not experienced with batteries. Or is it just best to get a new one?

Cheers

It’s possible the wires that connect the battery to the bike have gotten disconnected but the ones that connect the indicator are intact. If you feel comfortable, you can attempt to open the battery pack if it has screws and check the connection and voltage of the pack. How old is the battery? It’s likely that it’s reached end of life but it’s strange it wasn’t giving any signs earlier.

 

[Chalo]

If you let it sit idle for a long time and then found it didn't work, then it might need a boost from the discharge port before it will take a charge the usual way. Before you do that, measure the voltage. If it's full, like 4.1+ volts per cell, then don't attempt to jump start the BMS from the discharge port.

Batteries do age out, and when they do, it's the BMS that stands between you and trouble.

 

[Eastwood]

Hi there.

My Unit Pack Power battery just conked out. It was working fine, and now it won't charge. If I plug it in I get a response from the led charge indicator, but otherwise not.

Is there anything I can do? I'm not experienced with batteries. Or is it just best to get a new one?

Cheers

Have you tried checking the voltage of the battery? There’s many reasons, but your BMS could be protecting you. It doesn’t hurt just to check the temperature of the battery to make sure it’s not warming up in case you need to get rid of it. Probably best to not keep it in your house until you know what’s wrong with it or get it fixed. If you don’t have much experience, it might be safest not to mess with it, and just safely dispose the battery. There could be nothing wrong with the battery, might be something simple, but with lithium fires it’s not worth the risk trying to fix if you don’t have any experience.

 

[eMark]

You haven't said if you checked to see if the fuse is still aok. It sounds like there is a broken connection somewhere. What is the voltage reading with the key turned on? If the battery voltage is at least nominal the problem could be with the Controller.

If I plug it in I get a response from the led charge indicator, but otherwise not.

So the red charge led light comes on indicating the cells are being charged? What is the battery voltage before plugging in the charger and then after 1 hr with red light still on? Hopefully you are able to at least take some voltage readings to see if your UPP battery is still partially charged above LVC and still able to be charged at 90-95% SOC.

If the battery won't take a charge the problem could be a faulty charger. What is the voltage output of the charger itself?

 

[amberwolf]

Before you do anything:

If you can access the cells, or the balance wires from the cells to the BMS, I highly recommend checking the voltage on each cell(group) and posting them here, starting from the most negative ones (closest to B-) and going up to the ones at B+. Then we can check if they are correct and safe to try various workaround.

 

[docw009]

If it's one of the UPP Hailong batteries, they open up pretty easy. You'll find the BMS tucked alongside the cells. Look for any wires that might have fallen off. On my first battery fail, I had the positive wire to the charger jack fall off, and I didn't see it. Insteaad I did all requisite measurements, found the cells were good, hence the BMS must have failed. So I replaced a perfectly good BMS. I've also seen the BMS connector half unplugged and making intermittent contact on a brand new UPP.

I don't think UPP uses fuses, but look for them.

Then follow amberwolf's advice and measure the 13 cell groups. They should be close to another, ideally within .005 volt and between 3.0 and 4.2 volts.

Be careful. Battery still has a lot of charge left in it even if it's too low to run the bike..

 

[MaximilianMM]

Ok thank you all, I appreciate the advice.

I have a second battery which I've moved from another bike and it's working. So I know it's not the controller or connection from the battery to the bike.

Honestly, I'm tempted not to mess around with it as it's out of my experience and I'm nervous about a fire. But I will investigate further and perhaps try to fix it in due course, at which point I'll refer to this thread and update.

 

[docw009]

Does the battery still put out a voltage, enough to turn on your display? Or is it a brick? You did say the LED indicator still lights up.