Bladez XTR SE

Please elaborate...
It’s when you cook a circuit board in the oven as a last ditch effort to revive it. Metals expand a bit when heated, which can cause components to make contact again if they had poor connections previously. I forget how long you’re supposed to do it for, 400°F ~5-10 minutes if I recall, you can look into it further online.
 
I was able to modify the controller terminal connector on one of them so that a modern key switch could be installed. A 36-volt lithium battery can be used to overvoltage these, and it will still function well. You get 25% more torque and a top speed of 5 to 8 mph. The only reason I kept the original controller was its unique "trigger" throttle. Keep in mind that because the more modern Chinese throttles use hall sensors rather than potentiometers, they are incompatible with them.


I was able to use the original charging port after managing to fit three 36v hoverboard batteries inside. Although I've never conducted a thorough range test, I would estimate 10 to 12 miles (36 volts, 12 ah, 750 watts).
 
I was able to modify the controller terminal connector on one of them so that a modern key switch could be installed. A 36-volt lithium battery can be used to overvoltage these, and it will still function well. You get 25% more torque and a top speed of 5 to 8 mph. The only reason I kept the original controller was its unique "trigger" throttle. Keep in mind that because the more modern Chinese throttles use hall sensors rather than potentiometers, they are incompatible with them.


I was able to use the original charging port after managing to fit three 36v hoverboard batteries inside. Although I've never conducted a thorough range test, I would estimate 10 to 12 miles (36 volts, 12 ah, 750 watts).
Woah, another BladeZ owner on the forum!

You got hoverboard batteries to work? I guess they are designed for relatively high power output. I’m surprised the original controller could handle 36V. Good to know, I’m still trying to lithium swap mine. I assume you meant 15 to 18MPH and not 5 to 8MPH increase right?
 
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(24v to 36v) +5-8 mph increase. I went from 12 to 18 mph and weigh 215 pounds. My 100-pound son increased his speed from 15 to 23 mph. I eventually sold mine about a year ago, although I had a lot of other 2000s scooter brands.

For someone who weighs less than 175 pounds and can ride at a top speed of 20 mph, this scooter is ideal. These scooters have high-quality Taiwanese motors with ratings of 500–750 watts at 24 or 36 volts.
 
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(24v to 36v) +5-8 mph increase. I went from 12 to 18 mph and weigh 215 pounds. My 100-pound son increased his speed from 15 to 23 mph. I eventually sold mine about a year ago, although I had a lot of other 2000s scooter brands.

For someone who weighs less than 175 pounds and can ride at a top speed of 20 mph, this scooter is ideal. These scooters have high-quality Taiwanese motors with ratings of 500–750 watts at 24 or 36 volts.
I had the complete opposite experience with the original motor. There was no internal cooling and the coil wires appeared to be far too thin for the current drawn, which I believe lead mine to a premature death. Company that made the motor hardly exists online and contacting their support led to nowhere. Only place I could buy a new motor was directly from BladeZ for way too much money.

Good to know it can handle the extra volts; I’ve got a spare lead acid battery lying around that might be able to be hastily connected to the other two inside…
 
I found some photo's of my old Blade-Z Builds. I thought I deleted them.

"DeadPool"
BladeZ Red Front.jpgBladeZ Red Front Angle.jpgBladeZ Red Battery Tray.jpg




BabyBat (mobile)
1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg4.jpg5.jpg6.jpg


Rare currie-tech 28A motor (rare earth magnets)
7.jpg
 
Wow, those look incredible! Did you move the motor location and make new wheel covers, or did some models come like that?
 
So, I now have in my possession a different 24V speed controller. It's a MC-024D-132. The battery and motor connectors are pretty obvious; what I really need is a wiring diagram for the other connectors on it. They are:
J1 2 pins black
J3 3 pins red
J4 2 pins yellow
J5 2 pins red
J6 3 pins white
J7 2 pins green
 
So, I now have in my possession a different 24V speed controller. It's a MC-024D-132. The battery and motor connectors are pretty obvious; what I really need is a wiring diagram for the other connectors on it. They are:
J1 2 pins black
J3 3 pins red
J4 2 pins yellow
J5 2 pins red
J6 3 pins white
J7 2 pins green
You’re asking for help wiring the old wires to the new controller, right? I’ll work on making what should work as a wiring diagram later today
 
Again, I now have in my possession a different 24V speed controller. It's a MC-024D-132. The battery and motor connectors are pretty obvious; what I really need is a wiring diagram (or what plugs in where) for the other connectors on it. They are:
J1 2 pins black
J3 3 pins red
J4 2 pins yellow
J5 2 pins red
J6 3 pins white
J7 2 pins green
 
Again, I now have in my possession a different 24V speed controller. It's a MC-024D-132. The battery and motor connectors are pretty obvious; what I really need is a wiring diagram (or what plugs in where) for the other connectors on it. They are:
J1 2 pins black
J3 3 pins red
J4 2 pins yellow
J5 2 pins red
J6 3 pins white
J7 2 pins green
Unfortunately my controller died a while ago as well and I’ve stopped using most of the wires. I can find you the wiring for the switch and light which should be all you need from it
 
Has anyone thought of doing a hub motor swap? I've had an xtr-se in storage for about 7 years, I lost the motor mount unfortunately. While comptemplating fabricating a new one and considering upgrading size while I'm at it - it occured to me that a hub motor would not only be more efficient than chain drive, it would reduce the XTReme amount of rattle and noise a chain drive makes,. I found some 2000w 60v hub motors on Amazon - axel width, tire width and height need to be sorted out - the stock is a pretty small hub (eyeballed at around 5in diam). Luckily the braking is handled in front so no worry of disc or drum alignment. Just for finding aapx same width and height. Any thoughts? I understand this will involve controller and throttle upgrades and Im ok with that. Thank you!
 
Has anyone thought of doing a hub motor swap? I've had an xtr-se in storage for about 7 years, I lost the motor mount unfortunately. While comptemplating fabricating a new one and considering upgrading size while I'm at it - it occured to me that a hub motor would not only be more efficient than chain drive, it would reduce the XTReme amount of rattle and noise a chain drive makes,. I found some 2000w 60v hub motors on Amazon - axel width, tire width and height need to be sorted out - the stock is a pretty small hub (eyeballed at around 5in diam). Luckily the braking is handled in front so no worry of disc or drum alignment. Just for finding aapx same width and height. Any thoughts? I understand this will involve controller and throttle upgrades and Im ok with that. Thank you!
I still have the motor mount and hardware if you need it, but yes a hub motor would be much better. Not sure if you’d be able to get a battery to fit inside that can output 2000W though, even 500W output in that frame was hard for me to achieve. Maybe with a custom battery pack?

Even 500W of brushless hub power would be so much faster than the 450W brushed chain drive, as the “450W” is actually input power. It feels it makes maybe 250W to the wheels. My 350W eBike goes almost twice as quick as the scooter. The main reason I stuck with chain drive on mine is the stupidity of using it, and I like the noise
 
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