pucksterpete
1 kW
Oh well c'est la vie, I got bms to give me back $50, and more than likely the charger can be fixed for peanuts.
BMS Battery Alloy Shell Charger Problems
- Thread starter rui_fujino
- Start date
dnmun
1 PW
from what you have said so far i don't think it is broken. did you ever connect it to your battery at all? that black square box is a relay and the battery has to be connected in order for the relay to connect the charger to the battery. so i think the charger may work.
if you put the black lead on the - output terminal and the other end on the big wide trace that comes off the schottky diode you will see if there is voltage in the back end.
you may not have measured the right spot on the relay to see the voltage but i think it is there.
i think these chargers are no worse than other stuff. just because people post up here doesn't mean that all these chargers are bad. this is a spot where people come who do have problems, there are hundreds and hundreds of these chargers out there with no problems and i think yours may be one of them.
if you put the black lead on the - output terminal and the other end on the big wide trace that comes off the schottky diode you will see if there is voltage in the back end.
you may not have measured the right spot on the relay to see the voltage but i think it is there.
i think these chargers are no worse than other stuff. just because people post up here doesn't mean that all these chargers are bad. this is a spot where people come who do have problems, there are hundreds and hundreds of these chargers out there with no problems and i think yours may be one of them.
pucksterpete
1 kW
dnmun said:
Yes, it was connected a few times and charged fine. Tried a few days ago with a almost a emptied pack and she wouldn't start charging. I unplugged the pack and took a reading of the charger quickly and the volts were at 30V dropping. Just last night they had me take a reading by using the 2 pics and like what you just said about by passing the relay, I got 10V and holding. They told me they believed the pcb was bad and maybe 2 diodes DB601 and DB604. More than likely it is a simple fix, but for how long? I don't want to take the chance of spending more money on a product that has given me trouble so soon.
I don't think there all bad, I just think that the QC coming out of China is not good all the time and I was hit with a bad apple. I was able to get them to refund me $50 of the $160 total. I might take it somewhere here in France and have them look at it and go from there. I have been looking at a Mastech PSU model that people have talked about on ES and I have to think that if these are lab grade, then its built better than these smaller chargers, but you pay more $$ for it.
I appreciate the advice and I will see what I can do here with it.
dnmun
1 PW
if you had the case open, you would know if the schottky diodes had failed. it would be a big mess inside and they are huge diodes that never fail.
pucksterpete
1 kW
dnmun said:
No, nothing is burned up, here are the pics I sent them
dnmun
1 PW
the schottky diodes are on the silver heat sink where that transformer with 120volts15A printed on top. they are under the lip but i recommend that you not try to push the heat sink away from the cap because there is a 2 wire plug attached to the top of the top switching transistor for a thermal switch and bending the heat sink out will disconnect it.
if the diodes blew up there would be little pieces of black hard plastic laying on the pcb inside.
i have two of those chargers open here right now waiting on parts. if you wanna ship it here i can work on it too.
you can take the end cap off the back end to test the voltage at the base of the relay. be very careful when you take the end cap loose so that you don't damage the legs of the leds stuck onto the end plate. been there, done that.
if the diodes blew up there would be little pieces of black hard plastic laying on the pcb inside.
i have two of those chargers open here right now waiting on parts. if you wanna ship it here i can work on it too.
you can take the end cap off the back end to test the voltage at the base of the relay. be very careful when you take the end cap loose so that you don't damage the legs of the leds stuck onto the end plate. been there, done that.
pucksterpete
1 kW
Let me think on it and see what shipping will be, then I would just have you ship it to my mother's in States, as she is always sending care boxes 8)
Thanks
Thanks
dnmun
1 PW
shipping is always the back breaker. but if you hang on and can learn a little more i think you should be able to fix all your stuff. you seem interested enuff, it is not too hard, just takes time to get a feel for what the stuff does inside the box. the more others bring problems up here then the more education people can get to use on their own.
you can loosen the bottom screws on the end where the fan is, rotate it up outa the way, and take a picture from that end. that is where you can may be able to reach the leg of the relay that has the plus output from the schottky diodes on it.
you can loosen the bottom screws on the end where the fan is, rotate it up outa the way, and take a picture from that end. that is where you can may be able to reach the leg of the relay that has the plus output from the schottky diodes on it.
dnmun
1 PW
that is the daughterboard that turns the charger off when it reaches final voltage. that is why you do not see the balancing current when you charge up to full voltage. i asked about that and you said you could not see any balancing current. you should see 50-70mA at full charge.
if you have lipo you want the charger to turn off but for lifepo4 you want the charger to continue dribbling out a small current that can be used to bring the cells that have not fully charged up to full charge and this shunt current will help to keep the cells full that have a high self discharge rate.
Kingpan just makes a universal type charger for lipo as well as lifepo4 so you have to remove it yourself.
even though they almost identical to the Kingpan, the BMS battery chargers do not have the latching output board, but they have the J1 spot for it, but the through holes just have solder in them.
so if someone has a BMS battery charger and want to convert it to charging lipo then lemme know because i have a big bag full of those little daughter boards.
if you have lipo you want the charger to turn off but for lifepo4 you want the charger to continue dribbling out a small current that can be used to bring the cells that have not fully charged up to full charge and this shunt current will help to keep the cells full that have a high self discharge rate.
Kingpan just makes a universal type charger for lipo as well as lifepo4 so you have to remove it yourself.
even though they almost identical to the Kingpan, the BMS battery chargers do not have the latching output board, but they have the J1 spot for it, but the through holes just have solder in them.
so if someone has a BMS battery charger and want to convert it to charging lipo then lemme know because i have a big bag full of those little daughter boards.
dnmun
1 PW
i worked on biohazardman's big kingpan charger today. i had broken the green/red led lead off so i had to replace it.
it had a problem with the little metal bracket on back of the plug that connects to the fuse, but had sparked and burned open because it was not a solid metal-metal connection so i tried to solder it but there was no space between the plug and the ceramic capacitor so i had to remove the plug and attach a wire, 3 wire with ground, directly to the power leads and ground inside.
after i got it back together, powered it up but the red 'power' led did not turn on but the green led, the ready to charge or fully charged green led, was lit so i am gonna see if the charger works and just the power led is broken.
we have done more damage to his charger from working on it than helped.
we should be able to finger out what is wrong with pete's charger. i am pretty sure i can get greg's charger fixed yet. still waiting on some parts, but i am sure i found the problem with the short of the IGBT to the heat sink. when it shorted it blew a hole in the IGBT and blew open the base resistor. but it is a huge hassle to replace the IGBT.
it had a problem with the little metal bracket on back of the plug that connects to the fuse, but had sparked and burned open because it was not a solid metal-metal connection so i tried to solder it but there was no space between the plug and the ceramic capacitor so i had to remove the plug and attach a wire, 3 wire with ground, directly to the power leads and ground inside.
after i got it back together, powered it up but the red 'power' led did not turn on but the green led, the ready to charge or fully charged green led, was lit so i am gonna see if the charger works and just the power led is broken.
we have done more damage to his charger from working on it than helped.
we should be able to finger out what is wrong with pete's charger. i am pretty sure i can get greg's charger fixed yet. still waiting on some parts, but i am sure i found the problem with the short of the IGBT to the heat sink. when it shorted it blew a hole in the IGBT and blew open the base resistor. but it is a huge hassle to replace the IGBT.
Recently my bms charger emc-600 is not working anymore . (just a few months old )
only the one red led is on '' the power indicator'
I measured on output of 74volt when it on , but when i put my battery on it , the charger wont charge . And there is stil only one red led on ( the power indicator)
Also the fan doesnt turn on.
I opened the charger and a visual inspection doesnt seem anything blowed up or something .
Anyone familire with this problem ?
only the one red led is on '' the power indicator'
I measured on output of 74volt when it on , but when i put my battery on it , the charger wont charge . And there is stil only one red led on ( the power indicator)
Also the fan doesnt turn on.
I opened the charger and a visual inspection doesnt seem anything blowed up or something .
Anyone familire with this problem ?
dnmun
1 PW
no green led? is the red led just barely on, dim but not bright?
dnmun
1 PW
you should put your location in your profile, i assume you are french.
i haven't had to learn how the leds work yet so i am not up on them. but the green led should come on when there is power in the back end, or low voltage part of the charger where the charging current comes from.
you will have to open the case, take the end plate off where the charging wire comes off. when you remove that end plat be gentle with the leds that stick through the holes in the end plate. push the leds back through the holes as the end plate comes off so that you don't tear the leds off the pcb. they hang up in the holes so push gently with your thumb while pulling the end off.
but check the fuse first. there is a round screw on cover that has 'fuse' printed on it just above the leds. pull it out and check continuity with the voltmeter. do that first if you did not do it yet.
i haven't had to learn how the leds work yet so i am not up on them. but the green led should come on when there is power in the back end, or low voltage part of the charger where the charging current comes from.
you will have to open the case, take the end plate off where the charging wire comes off. when you remove that end plat be gentle with the leds that stick through the holes in the end plate. push the leds back through the holes as the end plate comes off so that you don't tear the leds off the pcb. they hang up in the holes so push gently with your thumb while pulling the end off.
but check the fuse first. there is a round screw on cover that has 'fuse' printed on it just above the leds. pull it out and check continuity with the voltmeter. do that first if you did not do it yet.
dnmun said:
Iam from holland.
I have pulled the plate of , i can take picture , but tthere doesnt seem anything unusual on it .
The weird thing is , that the charger gives an output of 75V but there wont flow any current
It wont charge when my battery is on it. the fan also dont start
dnmun
1 PW
you have a power switch on the end. see where those red and black wires go up from the pcb to the switch on the end plate next to where the AC cord plus in?
that switch turns on the power in front end so current should flow to the back end when it is turned on. your green led will come on then.
in the back end, you should see the output voltage across that schottky diode in the place where the relay is normally. but you are getting the 75V on the end of the cord?
i wonder if you have 12V in the back end. if the 12V is not working it would keep the op amps from making it charge, but why you got the 75v on the output is a puzzle. does the 75V turn on and off when you flip the switch?
you can probe for 12V coming off the voltage regulator or going to the op amps. use the negative output or the shunt wire for the negative voltmeter lead.
i don't have that model here to examine but it is close the kingpan model, and i have some other BMS battery chargers to compare so i will look at them. except they are both in pieces so i cannot power them up now.
that switch turns on the power in front end so current should flow to the back end when it is turned on. your green led will come on then.
in the back end, you should see the output voltage across that schottky diode in the place where the relay is normally. but you are getting the 75V on the end of the cord?
i wonder if you have 12V in the back end. if the 12V is not working it would keep the op amps from making it charge, but why you got the 75v on the output is a puzzle. does the 75V turn on and off when you flip the switch?
you can probe for 12V coming off the voltage regulator or going to the op amps. use the negative output or the shunt wire for the negative voltmeter lead.
i don't have that model here to examine but it is close the kingpan model, and i have some other BMS battery chargers to compare so i will look at them. except they are both in pieces so i cannot power them up now.
dnmun said:
yep iam getting 75V on the output , (is configured for 18s)
wich component is the voltage regulator ?
I checked the 12v volt for the fan , and there i found a problem . When i take as a default ' - ' the blue output wire and i measure the '+' of the fan i see 12V , so why the fan dont start then ?-> well thats because ''-'' of the fan is not good . So somewhere in the board the '' - '' of the 12v is not good anymore .
Any ideas where i must begin to look, and is there a drawing aviable that explains wich is each component and its function ?
dnmun
1 PW
the fan is turned on when the transistor on the '-' side of the fan turns on. the transistor is turned on by the op amp.
dnmun
1 PW
stefan, are you still there? do you still wanna try to fix the charger?
i finally got greg's big 900W BMS battery charger fixed. this is the one that burned up the ground lead.
when i got it i found that one of the big switching transistors in the front end was shorted to the case. that is why the ground wire had to carry so much current because it was rectified DC poured directly into the case. too much current (20+A) and it burned up the ground wire connection.
this is why i now recommend that anyone using these metal alloy cased chargers use them only on circuits with ground fault protection. whether kingpan charger or the BMS battery charger, both of them are liable to put 200V DC onto the case when they short out and if you touch the case while grounded you can receive a fatal shock.
200V is not a trivial voltage so i am recommending again that people be aware of this risk and do not handle the charger case while grounded since if it fails while you are holding it and are grounded, the ground will burn out just like this and you will be receiving a high voltage shock and may not be able to release the charger fast enuff to avoid a fatal shock.
it turns out that his charger had shorted the transistor to the case because there was a tiny, as in really tiny, the size of a pin tip, not pin head but the tip. less than .1mm across and .6mm long metal filing embedded in the heat sink insulator. i am certain that it was a piece of aluminum from the hole drilled in the heat sink for the bolt that holds the transistor onto the heat sink.
i postulate that the worker assembling the IGBTs onto the heat sink had pushed the screw through the hole and that had knocked the metal filing outa the hole and right under the rubber insulator just as she was putting it together. she would never have seen it because it was under the transistor.
it was so tiny that it did not short out the collector to the heat sink initially so it woulda passed inspection for continuity that i am sure must be part of their assembly process quality control. someone in their QC must go through every one of these heat sink/ IGBT, schottky diode, rectifier diode bridge assemblies after it is screwed together, checking continuity between the IGBT collector and the heat sink.
that would allow for repair of a short before the assembled heat sink and transistors were then mounted to the pcb and soldered into final position. i am certain they must have this inspection because of how easy it is to catch a short at that point.
this metal filing was not large enuff to cause a short initially so it passed inspection. it finally shorted out after greg had used it several times and it had heated up enuff to allow the insulator to soften so that the metal finally could push through the insulator enuff to short out the collector to the heat sink.
that was when it started smoking and burned up the ground wire connection. later when he fixed the ground, it was a strong enuff short that it blew up the transistor. so if the charger had been tested for a short at the time that the ground wire burned out, then the transistor was still intact and the only intervention would have been to take out the insulator and examine it for the shorted spot. it could been fixed then by removing the metal filing and replacing the insulator back under the IGBT with some more heat sink thermal compound. my TO-3P insulators are not even big enuff for these IGBTs so i put one of the TO-3P insulators under the original perforated insulator.
not many would think of a metal filing as the culprit, instead would think the transistor was just bad, so that is why i am making this warning now so people will know what to expect if they have a ground wire burn out in a similar fashion.
it was such a hassle. the switching transistors for these big 900W chargers switch so much current that they used IGBTs (40A 400V toshiba GT50J325) for the transistors instead of the big npn switching transistors.
they are expensive. $13 each from mouser. i found a hong kong source and got 3 for $16.20 including shipping. i ended up needing all three, even though only one had blown initially.
when i examined it, i had tested the second transistor. i thought maybe it would be dead too just like the one that shorted. but when i tested it the collector-emiiter was open circuit and there was an epitaxial diode between emitter-collector, and the gate, the insulated gate used for a 'base' in these transistors, was also open circuit so it was ok, imo.
my mistake was that i did not test the rectifier diode bridge also.
it had shorted when greg reconnected the ground wire and it then shorted out the diode bridge when he powered it up again after repairing the burned open ground lead.
so test the rectifier if you have this problem in the future. such a bitch to work on that this was a hard lesson to learn since replacing the bridge with the first transistor woulda fixed it then. i would still have the extra two IGBTs for parts too. expensive lesson.
so i powered it up after just replacing just the IGBT and the gate resistors for both transistors. one had blown with the IGBT so i replaced both so the gate resistors would be identical. both from the same batch of resistors. 10 ohm 1/2W 1%.
the fuse blew right away but it had already blown both the IGBTs by then so i had to take it all apart again and replace two transistors the second time. i was really lucky to discover the shorted rectifier diode bridge the second time. of course i should have looked for it the first time. so stupid.
duane 'biohazardman' had accidentally blown up the rectifier diode bridge on a big 900w kingpan charger and ordered two of the big diode bridges when he fixed it. a huge capacity, 25A 1000V bridge. GBJ2510-F, not the cheap $.83 type, the $5 kind.
he gave me the extra one after he was done so i had an exact replacement already in my stuff so i installed it along with the remaining two IGBTs that i had left from hong kong, soldered them all in place and cleaned up the flux with some nail polish remover. plugged the charger in and............... it works!!
i am so happy to get this fixed. whatta struggle today. impossible to reach the IGBTs under the big lip of the heat sink. then having to replace the diode bridge too which was also under the overhang of the heat sink. so glad it is fixed. except now i am gonna see if i can tweak it up to 100V for him so i am gonna order some higher voltage capacitors than the current 100V size so they won't blow up right away and i would have to take the charger apart again. no way. so much hassle.
it looks like i will have to use a 160V nichicon. to get the 7.5mm spacing it will be 18mmx40mm 330uF but that may be too large to fit in the space, so maybe only the 16x35.5mm 220uF which also has the 7.5mm lead spacing. the current ones are 100V470uF so i will be giving up a lot of capacitance but since it is gonna only be exposed to the voltage while attached to the battery pack then the battery will provide a lot of the capacitance when actively charging.
i also have a fix for the other charger where the choke had shorted out to the 12V regulator supply leads and blown up the output capacitor. that was the one that had burned a hole in the pcb and turned the choke winding black as it shunted so much current from the schottky diodes directly to ground and overheated so badly. that actually is kinda easy to fix compared to the shorted IGBT on this 900W BMS battery charger. EMC actually is the manufacturer. i think they are either the same outfit or very close.
i will cover that repair later. i also was able to fix his icharger and found that the fuse had burned open inside the bionyx charger and i am waiting on the leaded fuses for it now.
the icharger had burned up the discharging shunt wire when he used the icharger to discharge his lipo pack. this was a fatal error.
i wanna recommend nobody use these balancing chargers to discharge your battery. they are not designed to handle that kinda power and heat. the shunt in this one was a 4" long nichrome wire and it had melted and twisted into a pretzel from the heat. so discharge into a load that can handle it, not through the internal shunt. you will lose your icharger if you do.
so no more ichargers as dischargers or it will be finit icharger.
i finally got greg's big 900W BMS battery charger fixed. this is the one that burned up the ground lead.
when i got it i found that one of the big switching transistors in the front end was shorted to the case. that is why the ground wire had to carry so much current because it was rectified DC poured directly into the case. too much current (20+A) and it burned up the ground wire connection.
this is why i now recommend that anyone using these metal alloy cased chargers use them only on circuits with ground fault protection. whether kingpan charger or the BMS battery charger, both of them are liable to put 200V DC onto the case when they short out and if you touch the case while grounded you can receive a fatal shock.
200V is not a trivial voltage so i am recommending again that people be aware of this risk and do not handle the charger case while grounded since if it fails while you are holding it and are grounded, the ground will burn out just like this and you will be receiving a high voltage shock and may not be able to release the charger fast enuff to avoid a fatal shock.
it turns out that his charger had shorted the transistor to the case because there was a tiny, as in really tiny, the size of a pin tip, not pin head but the tip. less than .1mm across and .6mm long metal filing embedded in the heat sink insulator. i am certain that it was a piece of aluminum from the hole drilled in the heat sink for the bolt that holds the transistor onto the heat sink.
i postulate that the worker assembling the IGBTs onto the heat sink had pushed the screw through the hole and that had knocked the metal filing outa the hole and right under the rubber insulator just as she was putting it together. she would never have seen it because it was under the transistor.
it was so tiny that it did not short out the collector to the heat sink initially so it woulda passed inspection for continuity that i am sure must be part of their assembly process quality control. someone in their QC must go through every one of these heat sink/ IGBT, schottky diode, rectifier diode bridge assemblies after it is screwed together, checking continuity between the IGBT collector and the heat sink.
that would allow for repair of a short before the assembled heat sink and transistors were then mounted to the pcb and soldered into final position. i am certain they must have this inspection because of how easy it is to catch a short at that point.
this metal filing was not large enuff to cause a short initially so it passed inspection. it finally shorted out after greg had used it several times and it had heated up enuff to allow the insulator to soften so that the metal finally could push through the insulator enuff to short out the collector to the heat sink.
that was when it started smoking and burned up the ground wire connection. later when he fixed the ground, it was a strong enuff short that it blew up the transistor. so if the charger had been tested for a short at the time that the ground wire burned out, then the transistor was still intact and the only intervention would have been to take out the insulator and examine it for the shorted spot. it could been fixed then by removing the metal filing and replacing the insulator back under the IGBT with some more heat sink thermal compound. my TO-3P insulators are not even big enuff for these IGBTs so i put one of the TO-3P insulators under the original perforated insulator.
not many would think of a metal filing as the culprit, instead would think the transistor was just bad, so that is why i am making this warning now so people will know what to expect if they have a ground wire burn out in a similar fashion.
it was such a hassle. the switching transistors for these big 900W chargers switch so much current that they used IGBTs (40A 400V toshiba GT50J325) for the transistors instead of the big npn switching transistors.
they are expensive. $13 each from mouser. i found a hong kong source and got 3 for $16.20 including shipping. i ended up needing all three, even though only one had blown initially.
when i examined it, i had tested the second transistor. i thought maybe it would be dead too just like the one that shorted. but when i tested it the collector-emiiter was open circuit and there was an epitaxial diode between emitter-collector, and the gate, the insulated gate used for a 'base' in these transistors, was also open circuit so it was ok, imo.
my mistake was that i did not test the rectifier diode bridge also.
it had shorted when greg reconnected the ground wire and it then shorted out the diode bridge when he powered it up again after repairing the burned open ground lead.
so test the rectifier if you have this problem in the future. such a bitch to work on that this was a hard lesson to learn since replacing the bridge with the first transistor woulda fixed it then. i would still have the extra two IGBTs for parts too. expensive lesson.
so i powered it up after just replacing just the IGBT and the gate resistors for both transistors. one had blown with the IGBT so i replaced both so the gate resistors would be identical. both from the same batch of resistors. 10 ohm 1/2W 1%.
the fuse blew right away but it had already blown both the IGBTs by then so i had to take it all apart again and replace two transistors the second time. i was really lucky to discover the shorted rectifier diode bridge the second time. of course i should have looked for it the first time. so stupid.
duane 'biohazardman' had accidentally blown up the rectifier diode bridge on a big 900w kingpan charger and ordered two of the big diode bridges when he fixed it. a huge capacity, 25A 1000V bridge. GBJ2510-F, not the cheap $.83 type, the $5 kind.
he gave me the extra one after he was done so i had an exact replacement already in my stuff so i installed it along with the remaining two IGBTs that i had left from hong kong, soldered them all in place and cleaned up the flux with some nail polish remover. plugged the charger in and............... it works!!
i am so happy to get this fixed. whatta struggle today. impossible to reach the IGBTs under the big lip of the heat sink. then having to replace the diode bridge too which was also under the overhang of the heat sink. so glad it is fixed. except now i am gonna see if i can tweak it up to 100V for him so i am gonna order some higher voltage capacitors than the current 100V size so they won't blow up right away and i would have to take the charger apart again. no way. so much hassle.
it looks like i will have to use a 160V nichicon. to get the 7.5mm spacing it will be 18mmx40mm 330uF but that may be too large to fit in the space, so maybe only the 16x35.5mm 220uF which also has the 7.5mm lead spacing. the current ones are 100V470uF so i will be giving up a lot of capacitance but since it is gonna only be exposed to the voltage while attached to the battery pack then the battery will provide a lot of the capacitance when actively charging.
i also have a fix for the other charger where the choke had shorted out to the 12V regulator supply leads and blown up the output capacitor. that was the one that had burned a hole in the pcb and turned the choke winding black as it shunted so much current from the schottky diodes directly to ground and overheated so badly. that actually is kinda easy to fix compared to the shorted IGBT on this 900W BMS battery charger. EMC actually is the manufacturer. i think they are either the same outfit or very close.
i will cover that repair later. i also was able to fix his icharger and found that the fuse had burned open inside the bionyx charger and i am waiting on the leaded fuses for it now.
the icharger had burned up the discharging shunt wire when he used the icharger to discharge his lipo pack. this was a fatal error.
i wanna recommend nobody use these balancing chargers to discharge your battery. they are not designed to handle that kinda power and heat. the shunt in this one was a 4" long nichrome wire and it had melted and twisted into a pretzel from the heat. so discharge into a load that can handle it, not through the internal shunt. you will lose your icharger if you do.
so no more ichargers as dischargers or it will be finit icharger.
dnmun
1 PW
finally working on greg's charger that had burned up the choke and the capacitor on the output.
that choke had shorted to the trace that runs underneath the choke from the diode bridge on the output of the transformer over to the input of the voltage regulator of the 12V in the back end. the choke had rubbed through the shellac on top of the trace and shorted the high voltage output from the schottky diodes directly to the input of the voltage regulator.
that shorting current was not seen by the current shunt, which is in the negative lead on the output, not on the positive lead from the schottky, and that was why there was no feedback to keep the current low into the back end so the transformer was running flat out sinking all the current through the schottky diode directly to ground through the choke to the regulator to ground and the current somehow had damaged the capacitor. maybe it was the heat that blew up the capacitor.
so i covered the bare part of the trace with some plastic tape, then put a bed of silicone rubber down for the choke to sit in. now i am waiting for the silicone to set up and then i can solder the choke back into the circuit. i think i will run some wires underneath the pcb in parallel with the current traces to help carry the current because i am gonna try to push the charger current up to 8A from the stock 4A. the extra wires will help carry the current without overloading the traces.
this charger is now mounted on the top of a 24V meanwell power supply so the hybrid will be able to put out 100V for his 24S lipo. i am hoping the combo, where the charger is screwed to the top of the power supply, will be able to push 8A @ 100V for long enuff for him to charge up his 24S lipo.
that choke had shorted to the trace that runs underneath the choke from the diode bridge on the output of the transformer over to the input of the voltage regulator of the 12V in the back end. the choke had rubbed through the shellac on top of the trace and shorted the high voltage output from the schottky diodes directly to the input of the voltage regulator.
that shorting current was not seen by the current shunt, which is in the negative lead on the output, not on the positive lead from the schottky, and that was why there was no feedback to keep the current low into the back end so the transformer was running flat out sinking all the current through the schottky diode directly to ground through the choke to the regulator to ground and the current somehow had damaged the capacitor. maybe it was the heat that blew up the capacitor.
so i covered the bare part of the trace with some plastic tape, then put a bed of silicone rubber down for the choke to sit in. now i am waiting for the silicone to set up and then i can solder the choke back into the circuit. i think i will run some wires underneath the pcb in parallel with the current traces to help carry the current because i am gonna try to push the charger current up to 8A from the stock 4A. the extra wires will help carry the current without overloading the traces.
this charger is now mounted on the top of a 24V meanwell power supply so the hybrid will be able to put out 100V for his 24S lipo. i am hoping the combo, where the charger is screwed to the top of the power supply, will be able to push 8A @ 100V for long enuff for him to charge up his 24S lipo.
izeman
1 GW
can't make that thing turn on for setting the voltage. i don't want to connect it to the battery before checking the voltage. i followed doc's thread on how to turn the relais on, but i can't remove the board to connect the resistor, as the board is glued to the case. what pins/solder pads on the upper side of the board have to be connected to turn on the 900/1000w type?
help is much appreciated.
help is much appreciated.
dnmun
1 PW
put your voltmeter probes on the output from the schottky diodes and on the negative terminal on the pcb. the positive is switched in the relay. that will give you the voltage and you can adjust it for the final voltage before connecting the battery.
