Brushless motor controller with reverse

I thought all that had to be correct was the math like again, get something , hub motor that has high watts so it can move weight,, how is it possible does it exist? A hub motor or controller with high watts but moves slow .. does that exist? Also in the description on my link I sent, the description reads " provides directional change" from what I understood from another video I saw.. the "extras" or we call them add on features, (wires) can be played with so they can do things like brake, reverse function, cruise control, etc. Isn't it a matter of jumping the right other 2 wires , adding a switch and boom you've got a reverse function now? I'm sorry my last query, as I Also read about the skateboard hub motors I am trying to use for this application, I read that some of these wheels, (attached to boards of course), can actually support and move large people, so if that's true, why would the application of using them on a utility cart be any different? Please, thoughts.
 
FWIW, 1hp (or any amount of power) can move any amount of weight, on a flat surface (assuming "perfect" rolling resistance of zero). It just has a limit to how quickly it can accelerate it, and ot how much of a slope it can move it up, and because of air resistance it can't move it faster than a certain speed depending on the aerodynamic shape.

While it's likely that the motor/controller you're planning on using would be able to move the cart, the most efficient way to do it that will make things work best and give you the most work out of the least battery (and least system cost) takes a bit of work to figure out. You can use trial and error, or you do things a (fair) bit more complicatedly, and "do the math" to figure it out...since that math has a lot of factors (that I don't even know all of), then:

I think you might want to experiment with the simulator at ebikes.ca to see the relationships between all the different conditions and parts, including motor winding (kV) and battery voltage and current vs speed and heat created, etc. It will take some playing with the simulator to see how it works, after you read the instructions on the page.

Y0u don't need to worry about setting it up with your actual parts. Just start with the default setup and then based on the info on how each thing works, start changing that to meet your actual conditions. Once you know more about it you can customize each thing to more closely match what you actually are trying to do, and see what it will take to efficiently do what you want to do.

You'll also get an idea of wh/mile for your situational usage, which means how much power it will take to go a certain distance. Since you know the speed you would be going then that will tell you how much time it will last.


Some considerations on those wheels: Are they designed to hold up the weight you want to move? Will their axles and bearings do the necessary job? Are the tires on them suited for the surface(s) the cart must traverse? Are the surfaces completely smooth and flat, or are there any bumps you must go over? (they are very small diameter, so any bumps can be quite hard to go over--even a tiny piece of debris in their path with all that weight on them may jam the wheel to a stop; the larger diameter the wheel is, the easier it will roll over things in it's path).



I don't see a link to the "36v 10s4 100ah , 100000mah blue battery from alibaba", but based on many posted here it is almost certainly a piece of garbage that doesn't do anythign like what they claim. To be 100Ah at 36v, it would be a relatively huge battery, perhaps on the order of 40-50lbs or more. If by 10s4 you mean 10s4p, and it's supposed to be 18650 cells, there's zero chance that it is what it says.



For "speed limiting" in a controller, or any other functions, that depends on the specific controller model and what functions it offers. If you don't see exactly what you want in exactly the way you want it listed for a particular controller, *and it doesn't say exactly how to use the function*, you should assume it doesn't have that. If it vaguely says it might do something sort of like what you want, assume it does not do that. You'll be better off because you can just look at controllers that do actually say they do exactly what you want (once you know exactly what that is). ;)

Some controllers do have functions that just don't have wires on the outside for them. But even if the pads are on the board, it doesn't mean the MCU inside is programmed to even check the signals on them, much less respond to them the way you want it to
 
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FWIW, 1hp (or any amount of power) can move any amount of weight, on a flat surface (assuming "perfect" rolling resistance of zero). It just has a limit to how quickly it can accelerate it, and ot how much of a slope it can move it up, and because of air resistance it can't move it faster than a certain speed depending on the aerodynamic shape.

While it's likely that the motor/controller you're planning on using would be able to move the cart, the most efficient way to do it that will make things work best and give you the most work out of the least battery (and least system cost) takes a bit of work to figure out. You can use trial and error, or you do things a (fair) bit more complicatedly, and "do the math" to figure it out...since that math has a lot of factors (that I don't even know all of), then:

I think you might want to experiment with the simulator at ebikes.ca to see the relationships between all the different conditions and parts, including motor winding (kV) and battery voltage and current vs speed and heat created, etc. It will take some playing with the simulator to see how it works, after you read the instructions on the page.

Y0u don't need to worry about setting it up with your actual parts. Just start with the default setup and then based on the info on how each thing works, start changing that to meet your actual conditions. Once you know more about it you can customize each thing to more closely match what you actually are trying to do, and see what it will take to efficiently do what you want to do.

You'll also get an idea of wh/mile for your situational usage, which means how much power it will take to go a certain distance. Since you know the speed you would be going then that will tell you how much time it will last.


Some considerations on those wheels: Are they designed to hold up the weight you want to move? Will their axles and bearings do the necessary job? Are the tires on them suited for the surface(s) the cart must traverse? Are the surfaces completely smooth and flat, or are there any bumps you must go over? (they are very small diameter, so any bumps can be quite hard to go over--even a tiny piece of debris in their path with all that weight on them may jam the wheel to a stop; the larger diameter the wheel is, the easier it will roll over things in it's path).



I don't see a link to the "36v 10s4 100ah , 100000mah blue battery from alibaba", but based on many posted here it is almost certainly a piece of garbage that doesn't do anythign like what they claim. To be 100Ah at 36v, it would be a relatively huge battery, perhaps on the order of 40-50lbs or more. If by 10s4 you mean 10s4p, and it's supposed to be 18650 cells, there's zero chance that it is what it says.



For "speed limiting" in a controller, or any other functions, that depends on the specific controller model and what functions it offers. If you don't see exactly what you want in exactly the way you want it listed for a particular controller, *and it doesn't say exactly how to use the function*, you should assume it doesn't have that. If it vaguely says it might do something sort of like what you want, assume it does not do that. You'll be better off because you can just look at controllers that do actually say they do exactly what you want (once you know exactly what that is). ;)

Some controllers do have functions that just don't have wires on the outside for them. But even if the pads are on the board, it doesn't mean the MCU inside is programmed to even check the signals on them, much less respond to them the way you want it to
Absolutely agree amberwolf 100 % this can come down to a science in some applications but not always . I get the trial and error step ad well and will record and take pics and post them if I can, but I get it, every point. Kind of hit or miss but gotta make it work somehow. I'll send battery link. Let me know ur thgts. But again, so I hear what you're saying about the controllers, but so if the extra features wires like for reverse or whatever, are there, I can jump or connect them up and engage tge function? Assuming wired correctly?
 
FWIW, 1hp (or any amount of power) can move any amount of weight, on a flat surface (assuming "perfect" rolling resistance of zero). It just has a limit to how quickly it can accelerate it, and ot how much of a slope it can move it up, and because of air resistance it can't move it faster than a certain speed depending on the aerodynamic shape.

While it's likely that the motor/controller you're planning on using would be able to move the cart, the most efficient way to do it that will make things work best and give you the most work out of the least battery (and least system cost) takes a bit of work to figure out. You can use trial and error, or you do things a (fair) bit more complicatedly, and "do the math" to figure it out...since that math has a lot of factors (that I don't even know all of), then:

I think you might want to experiment with the simulator at ebikes.ca to see the relationships between all the different conditions and parts, including motor winding (kV) and battery voltage and current vs speed and heat created, etc. It will take some playing with the simulator to see how it works, after you read the instructions on the page.

Y0u don't need to worry about setting it up with your actual parts. Just start with the default setup and then based on the info on how each thing works, start changing that to meet your actual conditions. Once you know more about it you can customize each thing to more closely match what you actually are trying to do, and see what it will take to efficiently do what you want to do.

You'll also get an idea of wh/mile for your situational usage, which means how much power it will take to go a certain distance. Since you know the speed you would be going then that will tell you how much time it will last.


Some considerations on those wheels: Are they designed to hold up the weight you want to move? Will their axles and bearings do the necessary job? Are the tires on them suited for the surface(s) the cart must traverse? Are the surfaces completely smooth and flat, or are there any bumps you must go over? (they are very small diameter, so any bumps can be quite hard to go over--even a tiny piece of debris in their path with all that weight on them may jam the wheel to a stop; the larger diameter the wheel is, the easier it will roll over things in it's path).



I don't see a link to the "36v 10s4 100ah , 100000mah blue battery from alibaba", but based on many posted here it is almost certainly a piece of garbage that doesn't do anythign like what they claim. To be 100Ah at 36v, it would be a relatively huge battery, perhaps on the order of 40-50lbs or more. If by 10s4 you mean 10s4p, and it's supposed to be 18650 cells, there's zero chance that it is what it says.



For "speed limiting" in a controller, or any other functions, that depends on the specific controller model and what functions it offers. If you don't see exactly what you want in exactly the way you want it listed for a particular controller, *and it doesn't say exactly how to use the function*, you should assume it doesn't have that. If it vaguely says it might do something sort of like what you want, assume it does not do that. You'll be better off because you can just look at controllers that do actually say they do exactly what you want (once you know exactly what that is). ;)

Some controllers do have functions that just don't have wires on the outside for them. But even if the pads are on the board, it doesn't mean the MCU inside is programmed to even check the signals on them, much less respond to them the way you want.

FWIW, 1hp (or any amount of power) can move any amount of weight, on a flat surface (assuming "perfect" rolling resistance of zero). It just has a limit to how quickly it can accelerate it, and ot how much of a slope it can move it up, and because of air resistance it can't move it faster than a certain speed depending on the aerodynamic shape.

While it's likely that the motor/controller you're planning on using would be able to move the cart, the most efficient way to do it that will make things work best and give you the most work out of the least battery (and least system cost) takes a bit of work to figure out. You can use trial and error, or you do things a (fair) bit more complicatedly, and "do the math" to figure it out...since that math has a lot of factors (that I don't even know all of), then:

I think you might want to experiment with the simulator at ebikes.ca to see the relationships between all the different conditions and parts, including motor winding (kV) and battery voltage and current vs speed and heat created, etc. It will take some playing with the simulator to see how it works, after you read the instructions on the page.

Y0u don't need to worry about setting it up with your actual parts. Just start with the default setup and then based on the info on how each thing works, start changing that to meet your actual conditions. Once you know more about it you can customize each thing to more closely match what you actually are trying to do, and see what it will take to efficiently do what you want to do.

You'll also get an idea of wh/mile for your situational usage, which means how much power it will take to go a certain distance. Since you know the speed you would be going then that will tell you how much time it will last.


Some considerations on those wheels: Are they designed to hold up the weight you want to move? Will their axles and bearings do the necessary job? Are the tires on them suited for the surface(s) the cart must traverse? Are the surfaces completely smooth and flat, or are there any bumps you must go over? (they are very small diameter, so any bumps can be quite hard to go over--even a tiny piece of debris in their path with all that weight on them may jam the wheel to a stop; the larger diameter the wheel is, the easier it will roll over things in it's path).



I don't see a link to the "36v 10s4 100ah , 100000mah blue battery from alibaba", but based on many posted here it is almost certainly a piece of garbage that doesn't do anythign like what they claim. To be 100Ah at 36v, it would be a relatively huge battery, perhaps on the order of 40-50lbs or more. If by 10s4 you mean 10s4p, and it's supposed to be 18650 cells, there's zero chance that it is what it says.



For "speed limiting" in a controller, or any other functions, that depends on the specific controller model and what functions it offers. If you don't see exactly what you want in exactly the way you want it listed for a particular controller, *and it doesn't say exactly how to use the function*, you should assume it doesn't have that. If it vaguely says it might do something sort of like what you want, assume it does not do that. You'll be better off because you can just look at controllers that do actually say they do exactly what you want (once you know exactly what that is). ;)

Some controllers do have functions that just don't have wires on the outside for them. But even if the pads are on the board, it doesn't mean the MCU inside is programmed to even check the signals on them, much less respond to them the way you want it to
Btw the link for battery
 
Oh, yeah, that's a page full of lies and a pack made of garbage (assuming they even ship you anything after you pay for it). :/

There's zero chance that 4 parallel 18650s could hold 100Ah. At best you might get a bit over 3.5Ah per cell, so 4p gets you less than 16Ah.

I doubt the cells they're using have anywhere near that capacity, even if they were new. They probably aren't new, but are probably recycled garbage cells out of scrapped battery packs of random types, and probably have random low capacities for those cells that actually still work, and probalby some of the cells don't work.


Copy/pasted the ad below:

1688695891119.png

Daweikala-B Store
100% Original 36V battery 10S4P 100Ah battery pack 1000W high power battery 42V 100000mAh Ebike electric bike BMS+42V2A Charger
DOlidada 36V battery 10S4P 100Ah battery pack 1000W high power battery 42V 100000mAh Ebike electric bicycle BMS+42v2A charger
Daweikala New 36V battery 10S4P 100Ah 36v 18650 battery pack 1000W 42V 100000mAh for Ebike electric bike with BMS + 42V2A Charger
Battery settings:
Battery brand: Daweikala
Battery model: 36 V 100ah
Nominal Capacity: 100ah
Rated voltage: 36 V
Combination of cells: 4 parallel series 10
Battery size: 66X188X78mm
Number of batteries: 40
Instantaneous maximum discharge current: 30A
Maximum continuous discharge current: 15a
Standard charging current: 2A
Charging time under standard charging current: 4 hours
Maximum direct current load: 5A
Fast charging time: 4 hours
Battery weight: about 2kg
As the battery is a custom product, there is an error in the weight and size of the battery. Just beg to be excused
Parts included:
1. Lithium battery 36v100h
2. 42V 2A charger (with AC / US charger plug, you can choose, if there are no special instructions, we will send EU plug by default)
Since some packages can only send 2 kg of goods to certain countries, some countries must therefore send two packages.
Specifications
Bundle
  • Bundle 1
    Battery Number
    1
  • Size
    18650
    Replacement Battery
    Yes
  • Set Type
    Charger Sets
    Type
    Li-Ion
Customer Reviews (3)
3.7
All reviews come from verified purchasers
5 stars
2
4 stars
0
3 stars
0
2 stars
0
1 stars
1
02 Jul 2023
Color:XT60 30AH
T***o
This seller is very good, i received my battery pack in less than 15 days, i place my order on June 15-2023 and was very surprised to see it in my mail box, i must say thanks to all the people who are working in this company, thanks guys keep up the good work, Terry.

02 Jun 2023
Color:T DC 100AH
n***r
Thank you. Buffer 41.7V
Additional feedback
05 Jun 2023
Full fill is 42V, but buffer up to 40.6V Need a shell summary

30 Jun 2023
Color:XT60 30AH
A***s
There can be no question of any 30000 Mach. The battery is terrible. According to the sensations of Ampere 4 no more. Discharge very quickly, and charges up to 40.6 volts, and should 42 volts.
 
Oh, yeah, that's a page full of lies and a pack made of garbage (assuming they even ship you anything after you pay for it). :/

There's zero chance that 4 parallel 18650s could hold 100Ah. At best you might get a bit over 3.5Ah per cell, so 4p gets you less than 16Ah.

I doubt the cells they're using have anywhere near that capacity, even if they were new. They probably aren't new, but are probably recycled garbage cells out of scrapped battery packs of random types, and probably have random low capacities for those cells that actually still work, and probalby some of the cells don't work.


Copy/pasted the ad below:

View attachment 336192

Daweikala-B Store
100% Original 36V battery 10S4P 100Ah battery pack 1000W high power battery 42V 100000mAh Ebike electric bike BMS+42V2A Charger
DOlidada 36V battery 10S4P 100Ah battery pack 1000W high power battery 42V 100000mAh Ebike electric bicycle BMS+42v2A charger
Daweikala New 36V battery 10S4P 100Ah 36v 18650 battery pack 1000W 42V 100000mAh for Ebike electric bike with BMS + 42V2A Charger
Battery settings:
Battery brand: Daweikala
Battery model: 36 V 100ah
Nominal Capacity: 100ah
Rated voltage: 36 V
Combination of cells: 4 parallel series 10
Battery size: 66X188X78mm
Number of batteries: 40
Instantaneous maximum discharge current: 30A
Maximum continuous discharge current: 15a
Standard charging current: 2A
Charging time under standard charging current: 4 hours
Maximum direct current load: 5A
Fast charging time: 4 hours
Battery weight: about 2kg
As the battery is a custom product, there is an error in the weight and size of the battery. Just beg to be excused
Parts included:
1. Lithium battery 36v100h
2. 42V 2A charger (with AC / US charger plug, you can choose, if there are no special instructions, we will send EU plug by default)
Since some packages can only send 2 kg of goods to certain countries, some countries must therefore send two packages.
Specifications
Bundle
  • Bundle 1
    Battery Number
    1
  • Size
    18650
    Replacement Battery
    Yes
  • Set Type
    Charger Sets
    Type
    Li-Ion
Customer Reviews (3)
3.7
All reviews come from verified purchasers
5 stars
2
4 stars
0
3 stars
0
2 stars
0
1 stars
1
02 Jul 2023
Color:XT60 30AH
T***o
This seller is very good, i received my battery pack in less than 15 days, i place my order on June 15-2023 and was very surprised to see it in my mail box, i must say thanks to all the people who are working in this company, thanks guys keep up the good work, Terry.

02 Jun 2023
Color:T DC 100AH
n***r
Thank you. Buffer 41.7V
Additional feedback
05 Jun 2023
Full fill is 42V, but buffer up to 40.6V Need a shell summary

30 Jun 2023
Color:XT60 30AH
A***s
There can be no question of any 30000 Mach. The battery is terrible. According to the sensations of Ampere 4 no more. Discharge very quickly, and charges up to 40.6 volts, and should 42 volts.
Nice just saw this. Great points. Had no idea it was very suspect. There one more battery I saw... I'll post, let me know, and if you think this one is no go as well, maybe you could tell me or point me the way to go in terms of, if not 36v 100ah battery, then what size, (volt/ watt) , for what I'm trying to do would work, please. buying the blue 10s4p cheap battery was appealing because of cost but too cheap isn't good either. Let me know if u know of a battery please. I mean can I get a couple hrs off a 36v 60a battery ? I was trying to get one with the most "juice" in reserve but if I can get away, a little less amps, fine. Let me know about this one: Daly BMS Li-ion 10s 36V 20A 30A 40A 50A 60A 80A 100A battery BMS board with bala | eBay
 
maybe you could tell me or point me the way to go in terms of, if not 36v 100ah battery, then what size, (volt/ watt) , for what I'm trying to do would work,
We can't know what will work for you as we don't have the required information.

To get the right battery, you need to know how much current your system will require, worst case (to pick a battery with the right current capability), and what voltage will spin the motor at the speed you want the cart to go (to pick the right voltage battery***), and how many wh/mile the cart will take to do the job you need it to (to pick the right capacity battery).

(***alternately you pick the motor to spin at the right speed for a given voltage of battery)

For instance, if you pick a 36v battery and the motor is designed to spin at 20mph at 36v, then with typical speed controllers it will be difficult to control the system to go only at a walking pace (if that's the speed you want). In that event with those parts, you'd want a battery that is only maybe a quarter of that voltage, to spin the motor at 5mph or less. (but this affects other things...so picking the right motor first is usually best)

For instance, if you pick a battery that is 100Ah, it will be quite large and heavy. I have a 40Ah 52v battery on my SB Cruiser trike, and it's almost 40lbs, and the size of a fair stack of hardback books. If it were 100Ah it would weigh almost 100lbs and take up quite a lot of space on your cart--wouldn't make that much difference if it were only 36v, only takes less than a third of the size/weight away. Modern batteries of good quality can be smaller and lighter, but not by that much.

buying the blue 10s4p cheap battery was appealing because of cost but too cheap isn't good either.
THe battery is the heart of the system, so if it can't supply the power needed, the system doesn't do the job it needs to.

But you have to design the system to do that job, and the best way is to define that job first, then determine what is needed to do that job, then pick parts that can do that job in the way you need it to be done. (that's where the motor simulators and such come in, or the various online calculators, etc).



I mean can I get a couple hrs off a 36v 60a battery ?
Do you mean 60a, or 60ah? A is current capability, and Ah is capacity, and are not interchangeable.

Either way, we have no idea how much power your system will use, either instantaneously or over a specific amount of time or distance, so we cannot help you with that. You have to define everything and figure out the wh/mile usage before you can know if a particular battery capacity will do what you want.


I was trying to get one with the most "juice" in reserve but if I can get away, a little less amps, fine. Let me know about this one: Daly BMS Li-ion 10s 36V 20A 30A 40A 50A 60A 80A 100A battery BMS board with bala | eBay
That link is not for a battery, but only a BMS that you would install on a battery pack that doesn't have one. (it's also not known as a very reliable brand, with some pretty significant failure reports, and a thread here has some analysis of one specific version of one of their BMSs).
 
Oh Ok got some of what you said. When you say, " a quarter" of the voltage that's needed to have a faster operating unit, operate fine, bit a little slower, but still matching power, are you saying I can use a 24v battery for a 36v system? Like if my unit is 36v 360 watt, I can use 24v 350 watt, just to have it operate decent but still effectively, but it actually won't operate like it would if it runs off a 36v battery? Just a little dimmed down, but still functional? Also yea I meant (ah) not (a), sorry. Like using a 36v 60ah battery instead of 36v 100ah battery. Not as much extra juice, but a little more affordable and still has matching volts. I figure 100ah will be plenty of juice in the battery but 60ah should help me at least get 2-3 hrs or work out of the wheels on the cart.( same volts, just less (ah) in reserve. And would be cheaper. I know it's tough to know if that would even be true given the fact the weight, on the cart will play a factor how fast the battery is drained. But if this way will still work and be cheaper, just to complete the function I'm shooting for, even for half the time, then I would definitely commit to that. Also you say it's difficult to find a battery, power source like what I'm looking for, like 36v 100ah battery for example, that isn't heavy or a battery like this would weigh a lot? What about all these lightweight lithium ion slim small 2- 4 plb batteries I see all over Google when I search, 36v 100ah battery. Are u saying all these lightweight cheaper lith ion batteries are all garbage? Some are on ebay too, almost like the exact models on Google search, but they are 3 times the price. For example the blue 10s4p 36v 100ah blue battery that's 32 $ from aliexpresss or alibaba, is 160$ but from the U.S. on ebay. They look like the same model and description, but are they also crap ? Is the only difference tgat they are being sold in the U.S on ebay. Than from alibaba from China? Do I really have to spend an arm and a leg for the type of battery ( 36v 100ah ) that I want? If so the ones that seem legitimate are like you said, 1000 $ and weigh too much. I can't afford that. But again I see people online in videos with these "blue" smaller but powerful type of batteries being used to power their unit. Is it possible it's the same 10s4p type battery but just different brand? Can they all be worthless? It seems like everyone has these. Last point, like I mentioned in one post, I know you said if I get a motor (wheels) that are supposed to function well at higher speed but when in use, I will be using them to function at low speed to move heavy weight, you said that might damage the wheels because the wheels are meant to operate at a different faster speed, ok I see, but again if my speed controller has ability to have wiring for ( speed limiting), can't I just do that? Wire it up so now I'm operating with (speed limitor) thus bringing the total operating speed of the wheels down and therfore eliminating the problem of burning out the wheels (motor) due to them having to operate at a high speed. It will be limited, but now operating slower but still evenly, and safer to the wheels(motor). Can this be a loophole for me to get them to operate with destroying them. Please, thoughts.
 
Most ebike motor controllers have a low voltage cut (LVC) off point since draining a pack too low damages it. Generic controllers are often sold for a set battery configuration, like 13 cells in series for a 48V battery. So if you try to use a battery with fewer cells in series often you will be below the LVC and the controller will refuse to run, not just run weaker.

Slightly more expensive controllers may have a jumper, or pair of pads that can be soldered to switch between 36V and 48V appropriate LVC. Slightly more expensive have a display and buttons attached with a menu to pick. Even more advanced like Grin's Phaserunner have a program you run on a connected computer that can configure all the settings like LVC.

Most batteries on Alibaba/ AliExpress are advertised with fake capacities. Theoretically if you find a highly rated seller and buy a battery made with brand name cells like Samsung or LG, there's a chance you wouldn't get scammed.
 
Got it thanks for the tips Inanek. Good points, Btw for clarity, are you saying, ebike or speed, generic speed controllers, cut off or won't work when the motor is running/ moving slow with weight on the motor/unit than if it was moving faster? Or u mean when my battery source is low, the controller won't work? Or is it something else u mean
 
Most ebike motor controllers have a low voltage cut (LVC) off point since draining a pack too low damages it. Generic controllers are often sold for a set battery configuration, like 13 cells in series for a 48V battery. So if you try to use a battery with fewer cells in series often you will be below the LVC and the controller will refuse to run, not just run weaker.

Slightly more expensive controllers may have a jumper, or pair of pads that can be soldered to switch between 36V and 48V appropriate LVC. Slightly more expensive have a display and buttons attached with a menu to pick. Even more advanced like Grin's Phaserunner have a program you run on a connected computer that can configure all the settings like LVC.

Most batteries on Alibaba/ AliExpress are advertised with fake capacities. Theoretically if you find a highly rated seller and buy a battery made with brand name cells like Samsung or LG, there's a chance you wouldn't get scammed.
And I mean "draining " a pack to low,, again u mean like if it's the system is moving "slowly" but steadily, that will cause damage to controller or battery? Also do you know then what type of system, battery, controller is acceptable or would work/ works, for the configuration or setup of moving slow and with or without weight on the system. Like are there types? All I know of as of now are lith ion batteries, deep cycle batteries, car batteries, etc. Is tgere a name or specific type I can or should be using for what I'm trying to do? Push weight on a utility cart, at slow speeds. I just figured as long as I got the appropriate apparatus and volt/ watt combinations in parts, everything would work. Now I'm told thanks to others helping me on this site, that if I'm using a certain motor unit like the electric skateboard wheels , that if they are supposed to be running optimal at higher speed, but I'm using them to push weight at a low speed, this is a problem... again I ask would jumping 2 wires on my controller so that I create speed control, meaning now you can open the throttle, but still everything, the motor will only run at one medium low speed,, will this help? Get around my problem?
 
A fully charged battery starts at high voltage, 4.2V * the number of cells in series for the most common lithium ion chemistry battery. Using the battery depletes the voltage of the cells. Once they reach 3.2V * the number of cells in series, you should not drain them any lower than that because it will damage the battery. Controllers have a LVC for this reason. Typically there's a BMS circuit board in the battery that will also disable discharge at this point.

A typical ebike throttle simply takes a 5V input signal and outputs 1V when not twisted. As you twist it the voltage it outputs rises to 4V. It's not difficult to combine a switch and resistor or potentiometer sitting at a certain turn position to just always output whatever voltage throttle twist you want to emulate when the switch is on. Programmable controllers often have a walk mode that can be triggered as well as throttle ramping curves you can program to choose a certain amount of power to send to the motor for a certain throttle voltage.
 
Oh Ok got some of what you said. When you say, " a quarter" of the voltage that's needed to have a faster operating unit, operate fine, bit a little slower, but still matching power, are you saying I can use a 24v battery for a 36v system?
Not what I meant, but that depends on the system and it's limits.

A motor runs slow at lower voltage. How much slower depends on the specific motor's characteristics.


But you have to first determine what voltage would do what you want with the motor you want to use, *or* (better) determine what motor you *need* to do what you want at the voltage you want to operate at.

You really should look at the simulator to understand how these systems work. It will take you less time and work to do that then to keep guessing what might work. ;)


Like if my unit is 36v 360 watt, I can use 24v 350 watt, just to have it operate decent but still effectively, but it actually won't operate like it would if it runs off a 36v battery? Just a little dimmed down, but still functional?
No idea.


Also yea I meant (ah) not (a), sorry. Like using a 36v 60ah battery instead of 36v 100ah battery. Not as much extra juice, but a little more affordable and still has matching volts. I figure 100ah will be plenty of juice in the battery but 60ah should help me at least get 2-3 hrs or work out of the wheels on the cart.

Can't tell you how much work / time you will get out of any battery. You have to do the stuff already said to know that, or you have to build it and find out.


Also you say it's difficult to find a battery, power source like what I'm looking for, like 36v 100ah battery for example, that isn't heavy or a battery like this would weigh a lot? What about all these lightweight lithium ion slim small 2- 4 plb batteries I see all over Google when I search, 36v 100ah battery. Are u saying all these lightweight cheaper lith ion batteries are all garbage?

If they claim the same things as the other one, they're lying too.

You don't get small, cheap, high capacity, and good all in one thing. Just like the old saying "Cheap, Fast, Good--pick any two". If it seems too good to be true...it probably is. :/

It takes a certain amount of physical space and mass to do a certain thing. Batteries improve all the time, but you aren't generally going to find the newer, more energy-dense stuff that cheaply, unless it was scrapped out of something else for a reason (like recalled batteries that were fire risks for some reason, etc) or was worn out garbage that was suposed to be recycled but instead was taken apart and put into other things to be resold as new, etc. (like the first linked pack may be made of). In those cases you wont' get what the cells were designed for, because they aren't new.

Look around for 100Ah packs at the voltage you want. The ones that say they're heavier are more likely to be real, and the ones that say they're small and light are less likely to be so. The ones that don't state exactly what brand and model cells are in there are also less likely to be what they say they are--the ones that do state you can go look up those cell models and see if the pack could even do what it says with that number of cells.

Look up actual cells of the size stated in a pack, on their manufacturer specification sheets (spec sheets) that include testing data. And on sites like lygte-info.dk, battery/flashlight/etc forums, etc. There are cell testing threads here on ES as well. These things will tell you what various kinds of cells can typically do, so that you can compare to what sellers claim their packs can do.



Do I really have to spend an arm and a leg for the type of battery ( 36v 100ah ) that I want? If so the ones that seem legitimate are like you said, 1000 $ and weigh too much. I can't afford that.
Do you need that much capacity?

If not, you could save a lot of money, space, and weight.

But you'll have to do what was stated before to find out....



But again I see people online in videos with these "blue" smaller but powerful type of batteries being used to power their unit. Is it possible it's the same 10s4p type battery but just different brand? Can they all be worthless? It seems like everyone has these.
Just because they're all blue doesn't mean their insides are anything like each other.

To compare them you have to know exactly what is inside each one, and how it's connected, what BMS (if any) it has, etc. Without knowing that (which isn't usually possible without having it there to disassemble and examine and test for yourself), you could be comparing a Maserati to an empty snail shell. ;)



Last point, like I mentioned in one post, I know you said if I get a motor (wheels) that are supposed to function well at higher speed but when in use, I will be using them to function at low speed to move heavy weight, you said that might damage the wheels because the wheels are meant to operate at a different faster speed, ok I see, but again if my speed controller has ability to have wiring for ( speed limiting), can't I just do that?

No, that doesn't do the same thing. Winding a motor for a specific speed (kV, rpm/volt) means it operates differently than one wound for a different speed. (there are cases where compensating for the different winding is possible in various ways, but this specific one isn't like that). Also, a motor wound for higher speed has lower torque under the same system/conditions--so using a faster version of the motor means you won't get as much torque as you would if you used the same motor wound for a slower speed under the same system/conditions.

If you are willing to spend the time experimenting with and learning the ebikes.ca motor simulator, you'll see how these things all interact, and have a much better understanding of the parts involved, so that you can pick the right parts to do the job the first time, without as much guesswork. :)
 
Not what I meant, but that depends on the system and it's limits.

A motor runs slow at lower voltage. How much slower depends on the specific motor's characteristics.


But you have to first determine what voltage would do what you want with the motor you want to use, *or* (better) determine what motor you *need* to do what you want at the voltage you want to operate at.

You really should look at the simulator to understand how these systems work. It will take you less time and work to do that then to keep guessing what might work. ;)



No idea.




Can't tell you how much work / time you will get out of any battery. You have to do the stuff already said to know that, or you have to build it and find out.




If they claim the same things as the other one, they're lying too.

You don't get small, cheap, high capacity, and good all in one thing. Just like the old saying "Cheap, Fast, Good--pick any two". If it seems too good to be true...it probably is. :/

It takes a certain amount of physical space and mass to do a certain thing. Batteries improve all the time, but you aren't generally going to find the newer, more energy-dense stuff that cheaply, unless it was scrapped out of something else for a reason (like recalled batteries that were fire risks for some reason, etc) or was worn out garbage that was suposed to be recycled but instead was taken apart and put into other things to be resold as new, etc. (like the first linked pack may be made of). In those cases you wont' get what the cells were designed for, because they aren't new.

Look around for 100Ah packs at the voltage you want. The ones that say they're heavier are more likely to be real, and the ones that say they're small and light are less likely to be so. The ones that don't state exactly what brand and model cells are in there are also less likely to be what they say they are--the ones that do state you can go look up those cell models and see if the pack could even do what it says with that number of cells.

Look up actual cells of the size stated in a pack, on their manufacturer specification sheets (spec sheets) that include testing data. And on sites like Lgyte-info.dk, battery/flashlight/etc forums, etc. There are cell testing threads here on ES as well. These things will tell you what various kinds of cells can typically do, so that you can compare to what sellers claim their packs can do.




Do you need that much capacity?

If not, you could save a lot of money, space, and weight.

But you'll have to do what was stated before to find out....




Just because they're all blue doesn't mean their insides are anything like each other.

To compare them you have to know exactly what is inside each one, and how it's connected, what BMS (if any) it has, etc. Without knowing that (which isn't usually possible without having it there to disassemble and examine and test for yourself), you could be comparing a Maserati to an empty snail shell. ;)





No, that doesn't do the same thing. Winding a motor for a specific speed (kV, rpm/volt) means it operates differently than one wound for a different speed. (there are cases where compensating for the different winding is possible in various ways, but this specific one isn't like that). Also, a motor wound for higher speed has lower torque under the same system/conditions--so using a faster version of the motor means you won't get as much torque as you would if you used the same motor wound for a slower speed under the same system/conditions.

If you are willing to spend the time experimenting with and learning the ebikes.ca motor simulator, you'll see how these things all interact, and have a much better understanding of the parts involved, so that you can pick the right parts to do the job the first time, without as much guesswork. :)
Very thorough answers wolf thanks very much. Not too complicated what you're saying, guess I have to do more legwork to get the right balance I'm looking for. Cash is tight but might I can find a combo that works and check out the simulator. I might have to scrap this all and go back to looking at those caster type hub motors than the elec skateboard wheels. Someone told me yesterday, the caster type hub motors are geared different, like low gearing, than the skateboard wheels. One thing I'm still confused on, so the e skateboard wheels may need to operate at faster speed to be optimal and run correct so might be crap for using a low speeds, but now if I get the caster type hub wheel that is lower geared I guess meaning it can perform equally well at lower slower speeds, if that's the case with the caster hub motor being better for lower steady moving speeds, then nothing on the whole system, controller, battery, hub motor wheel, should be damaged or harmed?
 
Not what I meant, but that depends on the system and it's limits.

A motor runs slow at lower voltage. How much slower depends on the specific motor's characteristics.


But you have to first determine what voltage would do what you want with the motor you want to use, *or* (better) determine what motor you *need* to do what you want at the voltage you want to operate at.

You really should look at the simulator to understand how these systems work. It will take you less time and work to do that then to keep guessing what might work. ;)



No idea.




Can't tell you how much work / time you will get out of any battery. You have to do the stuff already said to know that, or you have to build it and find out.




If they claim the same things as the other one, they're lying too.

You don't get small, cheap, high capacity, and good all in one thing. Just like the old saying "Cheap, Fast, Good--pick any two". If it seems too good to be true...it probably is. :/

It takes a certain amount of physical space and mass to do a certain thing. Batteries improve all the time, but you aren't generally going to find the newer, more energy-dense stuff that cheaply, unless it was scrapped out of something else for a reason (like recalled batteries that were fire risks for some reason, etc) or was worn out garbage that was suposed to be recycled but instead was taken apart and put into other things to be resold as new, etc. (like the first linked pack may be made of). In those cases you wont' get what the cells were designed for, because they aren't new.

Look around for 100Ah packs at the voltage you want. The ones that say they're heavier are more likely to be real, and the ones that say they're small and light are less likely to be so. The ones that don't state exactly what brand and model cells are in there are also less likely to be what they say they are--the ones that do state you can go look up those cell models and see if the pack could even do what it says with that number of cells.

Look up actual cells of the size stated in a pack, on their manufacturer specification sheets (spec sheets) that include testing data. And on sites like Lgyte-info.dk, battery/flashlight/etc forums, etc. There are cell testing threads here on ES as well. These things will tell you what various kinds of cells can typically do, so that you can compare to what sellers claim their packs can do.




Do you need that much capacity?

If not, you could save a lot of money, space, and weight.

But you'll have to do what was stated before to find out....




Just because they're all blue doesn't mean their insides are anything like each other.

To compare them you have to know exactly what is inside each one, and how it's connected, what BMS (if any) it has, etc. Without knowing that (which isn't usually possible without having it there to disassemble and examine and test for yourself), you could be comparing a Maserati to an empty snail shell. ;)





No, that doesn't do the same thing. Winding a motor for a specific speed (kV, rpm/volt) means it operates differently than one wound for a different speed. (there are cases where compensating for the different winding is possible in various ways, but this specific one isn't like that). Also, a motor wound for higher speed has lower torque under the same system/conditions--so using a faster version of the motor means you won't get as much torque as you would if you used the same motor wound for a slower speed under the same system/conditions.

If you are willing to spend the time experimenting with and learning the ebikes.ca motor simulator, you'll see how these things all interact, and have a much better understanding of the parts involved, so that you can pick the right parts to do the job the first time, without as much guesswork. :)
Almost forgot to ask, just recently found out, not sure if it's true, can I pair, or run for example a 36v 350watt hub wheel on a 36v 500watt motor controller? I thought everything had to be paired just right but now I'm seeing online people are saying it's safe to do this... put 350 watt wheel with a 500 watt controller? Safe? Or will it damage battery, or wheel or?
 
Not what I meant, but that depends on the system and it's limits.

A motor runs slow at lower voltage. How much slower depends on the specific motor's characteristics.


But you have to first determine what voltage would do what you want with the motor you want to use, *or* (better) determine what motor you *need* to do what you want at the voltage you want to operate at.

You really should look at the simulator to understand how these systems work. It will take you less time and work to do that then to keep guessing what might work. ;)



No idea.




Can't tell you how much work / time you will get out of any battery. You have to do the stuff already said to know that, or you have to build it and find out.




If they claim the same things as the other one, they're lying too.

You don't get small, cheap, high capacity, and good all in one thing. Just like the old saying "Cheap, Fast, Good--pick any two". If it seems too good to be true...it probably is. :/

It takes a certain amount of physical space and mass to do a certain thing. Batteries improve all the time, but you aren't generally going to find the newer, more energy-dense stuff that cheaply, unless it was scrapped out of something else for a reason (like recalled batteries that were fire risks for some reason, etc) or was worn out garbage that was suposed to be recycled but instead was taken apart and put into other things to be resold as new, etc. (like the first linked pack may be made of). In those cases you wont' get what the cells were designed for, because they aren't new.

Look around for 100Ah packs at the voltage you want. The ones that say they're heavier are more likely to be real, and the ones that say they're small and light are less likely to be so. The ones that don't state exactly what brand and model cells are in there are also less likely to be what they say they are--the ones that do state you can go look up those cell models and see if the pack could even do what it says with that number of cells.

Look up actual cells of the size stated in a pack, on their manufacturer specification sheets (spec sheets) that include testing data. And on sites like lygte-info.dk, battery/flashlight/etc forums, etc. There are cell testing threads here on ES as well. These things will tell you what various kinds of cells can typically do, so that you can compare to what sellers claim their packs can do.




Do you need that much capacity?

If not, you could save a lot of money, space, and weight.

But you'll have to do what was stated before to find out....




Just because they're all blue doesn't mean their insides are anything like each other.

To compare them you have to know exactly what is inside each one, and how it's connected, what BMS (if any) it has, etc. Without knowing that (which isn't usually possible without having it there to disassemble and examine and test for yourself), you could be comparing a Maserati to an empty snail shell. ;)





No, that doesn't do the same thing. Winding a motor for a specific speed (kV, rpm/volt) means it operates differently than one wound for a different speed. (there are cases where compensating for the different winding is possible in various ways, but this specific one isn't like that). Also, a motor wound for higher speed has lower torque under the same system/conditions--so using a faster version of the motor means you won't get as much torque as you would if you used the same motor wound for a slower speed under the same system/conditions.

If you are willing to spend the time experimenting with and learning the ebikes.ca motor simulator, you'll see how these things all interact, and have a much better understanding of the parts involved, so that you can pick the right parts to do the job the first time, without as much guesswork. :)
Again I mean I know volts have to match for sure, but do watts? they don't have to be perfect matching? Anything might happen?
 
Not what I meant, but that depends on the system and it's limits.

A motor runs slow at lower voltage. How much slower depends on the specific motor's characteristics.


But you have to first determine what voltage would do what you want with the motor you want to use, *or* (better) determine what motor you *need* to do what you want at the voltage you want to operate at.

You really should look at the simulator to understand how these systems work. It will take you less time and work to do that then to keep guessing what might work. ;)



No idea.




Can't tell you how much work / time you will get out of any battery. You have to do the stuff already said to know that, or you have to build it and find out.




If they claim the same things as the other one, they're lying too.

You don't get small, cheap, high capacity, and good all in one thing. Just like the old saying "Cheap, Fast, Good--pick any two". If it seems too good to be true...it probably is. :/

It takes a certain amount of physical space and mass to do a certain thing. Batteries improve all the time, but you aren't generally going to find the newer, more energy-dense stuff that cheaply, unless it was scrapped out of something else for a reason (like recalled batteries that were fire risks for some reason, etc) or was worn out garbage that was suposed to be recycled but instead was taken apart and put into other things to be resold as new, etc. (like the first linked pack may be made of). In those cases you wont' get what the cells were designed for, because they aren't new.

Look around for 100Ah packs at the voltage you want. The ones that say they're heavier are more likely to be real, and the ones that say they're small and light are less likely to be so. The ones that don't state exactly what brand and model cells are in there are also less likely to be what they say they are--the ones that do state you can go look up those cell models and see if the pack could even do what it says with that number of cells.

Look up actual cells of the size stated in a pack, on their manufacturer specification sheets (spec sheets) that include testing data. And on sites like Lgyte-info.dk, battery/flashlight/etc forums, etc. There are cell testing threads here on ES as well. These things will tell you what various kinds of cells can typically do, so that you can compare to what sellers claim their packs can do.




Do you need that much capacity?

If not, you could save a lot of money, space, and weight.

But you'll have to do what was stated before to find out....




Just because they're all blue doesn't mean their insides are anything like each other.

To compare them you have to know exactly what is inside each one, and how it's connected, what BMS (if any) it has, etc. Without knowing that (which isn't usually possible without having it there to disassemble and examine and test for yourself), you could be comparing a Maserati to an empty snail shell. ;)





No, that doesn't do the same thing. Winding a motor for a specific speed (kV, rpm/volt) means it operates differently than one wound for a different speed. (there are cases where compensating for the different winding is possible in various ways, but this specific one isn't like that). Also, a motor wound for higher speed has lower torque under the same system/conditions--so using a faster version of the motor means you won't get as much torque as you would if you used the same motor wound for a slower speed under the same system/conditions.

If you are willing to spend the time experimenting with and learning the ebikes.ca motor simulator, you'll see how these things all interact, and have a much better understanding of the parts involved, so that you can pick the right parts to do the job the first time, without as much guesswork. :)
Dam I'm sorry, again one more question I think ha.. like I was asking Inanek, so is there a specific name or type battery I'm supposed to be using for this application? Like again, low speeds type application, with some weight being moved? Is there a type? Or again is it like, yea I can use any kind of 36v battery, deep cycle, lith ion, regular battery, for the job, and again it just comes down to the hub motor wheel being used .. and controller how it's drawing from the battery be it any type of battery. ... or like I said is there a name of type of model battery specific for this
 
Not what I meant, but that depends on the system and it's limits.

A motor runs slow at lower voltage. How much slower depends on the specific motor's characteristics.


But you have to first determine what voltage would do what you want with the motor you want to use, *or* (better) determine what motor you *need* to do what you want at the voltage you want to operate at.

You really should look at the simulator to understand how these systems work. It will take you less time and work to do that then to keep guessing what might work. ;)



No idea.




Can't tell you how much work / time you will get out of any battery. You have to do the stuff already said to know that, or you have to build it and find out.




If they claim the same things as the other one, they're lying too.

You don't get small, cheap, high capacity, and good all in one thing. Just like the old saying "Cheap, Fast, Good--pick any two". If it seems too good to be true...it probably is. :/

It takes a certain amount of physical space and mass to do a certain thing. Batteries improve all the time, but you aren't generally going to find the newer, more energy-dense stuff that cheaply, unless it was scrapped out of something else for a reason (like recalled batteries that were fire risks for some reason, etc) or was worn out garbage that was suposed to be recycled but instead was taken apart and put into other things to be resold as new, etc. (like the first linked pack may be made of). In those cases you wont' get what the cells were designed for, because they aren't new.

Look around for 100Ah packs at the voltage you want. The ones that say they're heavier are more likely to be real, and the ones that say they're small and light are less likely to be so. The ones that don't state exactly what brand and model cells are in there are also less likely to be what they say they are--the ones that do state you can go look up those cell models and see if the pack could even do what it says with that number of cells.

Look up actual cells of the size stated in a pack, on their manufacturer specification sheets (spec sheets) that include testing data. And on sites like Lgyte-info.dk, battery/flashlight/etc forums, etc. There are cell testing threads here on ES as well. These things will tell you what various kinds of cells can typically do, so that you can compare to what sellers claim their packs can do.




Do you need that much capacity?

If not, you could save a lot of money, space, and weight.

But you'll have to do what was stated before to find out....




Just because they're all blue doesn't mean their insides are anything like each other.

To compare them you have to know exactly what is inside each one, and how it's connected, what BMS (if any) it has, etc. Without knowing that (which isn't usually possible without having it there to disassemble and examine and test for yourself), you could be comparing a Maserati to an empty snail shell. ;)





No, that doesn't do the same thing. Winding a motor for a specific speed (kV, rpm/volt) means it operates differently than one wound for a different speed. (there are cases where compensating for the different winding is possible in various ways, but this specific one isn't like that). Also, a motor wound for higher speed has lower torque under the same system/conditions--so using a faster version of the motor means you won't get as much torque as you would if you used the same motor wound for a slower speed under the same system/conditions.

If you are willing to spend the time experimenting with and learning the ebikes.ca motor simulator, you'll see how these things all interact, and have a much better understanding of the parts involved, so that you can pick the right parts to do the job the first time, without as much guesswork. :)
Here are the other wheels I'm getting. Oh well its from China but I think they might push weight on a hospital floor. https://m.aliexpress.us/item/325680...ppclist.product.0&gatewayAdapt=gloPc2usaMsite
 
Looks like the motors used on standup scooters and hoverboards, so it will probably be made for the same speed ranges as the skateboard wheels.

Being larger it will be more able to handle heating for longer in the event there is such, but if it is wound for the same speeds as the skateboard wheels, it doesn't change the root issue.

Since neither one of them says what speed it is meant to go at what voltage, nor lists it's kV or kT, you'd have to test it in your application to find out what they'll do.

Oh, and at ~5" diameter they'll almost certainly roll better over uneven surfaces, doorjams, mats, etc, than the tiny skateboard wheels. How well the solid tires built onto them and the single-ended axles will work with the weight you're expecting you'll have to test, but the same is true of any other wheel you use.

Regarding batteries...the type and size and everything else will depend on your system's needs and your budget and other constraints, such as what types of batteries the hospital allows to be used and charged at that location.

Regarding watts, what matters is that the motor can supply / handle enough at the speed you are going to move the load you have under the conditions you're using it, and that the controller can supply the motor with that power, and that the battery can supply the motor with that power.

Most motors can handle short bursts of seconds to minutes of higher power than their "rating"**** before problems begin, but the actual time and the actual results depend on the specific motor, controller, conditions, usage, etc.

For instance, I am using a "500w" motor on the right side of SB Cruiser, and for several seconds during startup from a stop until I reach 20MPH, it sees anywhere from two to four times that power level, which does heat it up quite a bit...but the rest of the time it less power than it's rated for (anything from 1/2 to 3/4), and has some time to cool down in the airflow as I ride down the road, between times it has to do this. If it had to do that kind of thing more often or for a longer it probably would start having trouble with it, and eventually be damaged.

In a bit more than a decade, I've only cooked two motors, of two different kinds in different projects. One of them was because it was meant to supply the power it was rated for at a much faster speed than I was running it at (which is the likely situation your project would be in with the motor wheels you've linked so far). Another I did not cook but I physically broke the torque-transfer mechanism in yet another motor in the second project, just trying to start from a stop, with startup power about three times what it was rated for.

So...using a motor with a controller that can supply more current *can* damage the motor, depending on the heat buildup within it, which depends on your conditions and usage. If the battery and the controller are both capable of handling that power, then they won't be damaged by the power itself. However, if the motor shorts out internally from overheating *that* could damage the controller during the moment of motor failure, and if the controller fails internally so that it shorts across the battery terminals, then it could damage the battery (or at least it's BMS), depending on the design of the battery.
 
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Someone told me yesterday, the caster type hub motors are geared different, like low gearing, than the skateboard wheels.
I don't know what the caster-type hubmotor is, as I have never seen one mounted in a caster (though I have never looked for one).

A google image search turns up quite a few different types, some of which are not hubmotors and many of which are not actually casters (but are using that term).

So you'd have to link to the one you are thinking of. This is a caster, showing it's swivel mount and the castered base (caster as a term basically means having the wheel axle offset from the steering axis, as you can see here, or as in the front wheel of a bicycle or motorcycle, etc).:
1688952200159.png

If the motors are geared hubmotors, then they will have internal gearing to reduce the motor speed down to a specific wheel speed. You still have to pick one appropriate to the speed you want to use them at for them to be efficient at that speed, regardless of the fact that they have gearing.

If the motors are direct drive DD nongeared hubmotors, but are wound for slower speeds than the same motor otherwise would be, then they just naturally spin at a slower speed than the same motor otherwise would, and would have proportionally higher torque all other factors the same. Again, you do still have to pick one appropriate to your desired speed for efficiency.

Any motor that does not state it's RPM or road speed (MPH, KPH) at a certain voltage, and does not provide a kV or kT specification, is a motor that you cannot know how fast it will go at any particular voltage without testing it yourself.

If a motor says it is for 48v and goes 12mph, and you need it to go 3mph max, then you could run it at 12v and get that...if you have a controller that will run at 12v and your battery is 12v, or perhaps if you modify the throttle so it will only ever be able to command the controller to output an average of 12v to the motor.

If your system is some particular voltage and you're stuck with that, like 36v, then you should pick a motor that will go your speed (say, 3mph) *at* 36v. (this is the most efficient way to do things anyway)
 
I don't know what the caster-type hubmotor is, as I have never seen one mounted in a caster (though I have never looked for one).

A google image search turns up quite a few different types, some of which are not hubmotors and many of which are not actually casters (but are using that term).

So you'd have to link to the one you are thinking of. This is a caster, showing it's swivel mount and the castered base (caster as a term basically means having the wheel axle offset from the steering axis, as you can see here, or as in the front wheel of a bicycle or motorcycle, etc).:
View attachment 336339

If the motors are geared hubmotors, then they will have internal gearing to reduce the motor speed down to a specific wheel speed. You still have to pick one appropriate to the speed you want to use them at for them to be efficient at that speed, regardless of the fact that they have gearing.

If the motors are direct drive DD nongeared hubmotors, but are wound for slower speeds than the same motor otherwise would be, then they just naturally spin at a slower speed than the same motor otherwise would, and would have proportionally higher torque all other factors the same. Again, you do still have to pick one appropriate to your desired speed for efficiency.

Any motor that does not state it's RPM or road speed (MPH, KPH) at a certain voltage, and does not provide a kV or kT specification, is a motor that you cannot know how fast it will go at any particular voltage without testing it yourself.

If a motor says it is for 48v and goes 12mph, and you need it to go 3mph max, then you could run it at 12v and get that...if you have a controller that will run at 12v and your battery is 12v, or perhaps if you modify the throttle so it will only ever be able to command the controller to output an average of 12v to the motor.

If your system is some particular voltage and you're stuck with that, like 36v, then you should pick a motor that will go your speed (say, 3mph) *at* 36v. (this is the most efficient way to do things anyway)
Very thorough thank you I have to digest all this and plan the next move
 
Looks like the motors used on standup scooters and hoverboards, so it will probably be made for the same speed ranges as the skateboard wheels.

Being larger it will be more able to handle heating for longer in the event there is such, but if it is wound for the same speeds as the skateboard wheels, it doesn't change the root issue.

Since neither one of them says what speed it is meant to go at what voltage, nor lists it's kV or kT, you'd have to test it in your application to find out what they'll do.

Oh, and at ~5" diameter they'll almost certainly roll better over uneven surfaces, doorjams, mats, etc, than the tiny skateboard wheels. How well the solid tires built onto them and the single-ended axles will work with the weight you're expecting you'll have to test, but the same is true of any other wheel you use.

Regarding batteries...the type and size and everything else will depend on your system's needs and your budget and other constraints, such as what types of batteries the hospital allows to be used and charged at that location.

Regarding watts, what matters is that the motor can supply / handle enough at the speed you are going to move the load you have under the conditions you're using it, and that the controller can supply the motor with that power, and that the battery can supply the motor with that power.

Most motors can handle short bursts of seconds to minutes of higher power than their "rating"**** before problems begin, but the actual time and the actual results depend on the specific motor, controller, conditions, usage, etc.

For instance, I am using a "500w" motor on the right side of SB Cruiser, and for several seconds during startup from a stop until I reach 20MPH, it sees anywhere from two to four times that power level, which does heat it up quite a bit...but the rest of the time it less power than it's rated for (anything from 1/2 to 3/4), and has some time to cool down in the airflow as I ride down the road, between times it has to do this. If it had to do that kind of thing more often or for a longer it probably would start having trouble with it, and eventually be damaged.

In a bit more than a decade, I've only cooked two motors, of two different kinds in different projects. One of them was because it was meant to supply the power it was rated for at a much faster speed than I was running it at (which is the likely situation your project would be in with the motor wheels you've linked so far). Another I did not cook but I physically broke the torque-transfer mechanism in yet another motor in the second project, just trying to start from a stop, with startup power about three times what it was rated for.

So...using a motor with a controller that can supply more current *can* damage the motor, depending on the heat buildup within it, which depends on your conditions and usage. If the battery and the controller are both capable of handling that power, then they won't be damaged by the power itself. However, if the motor shorts out internally from overheating *that* could damage the controller during the moment of motor failure, and if the controller fails internally so that it shorts across the battery terminals, then it could damage the battery (or at least it's BMS), depending on the design of the battery.
Wait when you said you cooked one pair of wheels because the unit wasn't operating fast enough and power supply was too much, then what wheel / type of hub motor did you switch to then? One still strong enough for operation, but at lower speed. Is there a name for the type of wheel you switched to for that particular project?
 
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