|Campus Rider MK I.5| Weld-free Electric Long Board

[lpbug]

Yup. Try an m6 bolt fits right through on one of the insert holes. Tight fit but should be good for the torque. M5 would move inside the insert.

BTW what do you plan on using for your electronics cover?

I might expand my hub stops to be compatible with M4 threaded rods. Thinking about using bent sheet aluminum to make an enclosure. 3D printing is always and option if I can find somewhere to do it for cheap. I don't assume the electronics cover has to stand up to much physical stress as it will mostly be there to be shielding for dust and water.

 

[michaelkramer11]

Awesome designs!

Keep us updated and can't wait to see those plans!

 

[kkEdlund]

Thinking about using bent sheet aluminum to make an enclosure. 3D printing is always and option if I can find somewhere to do it for cheap. I don't assume the electronics cover has to stand up to much physical stress as it will mostly be there to be shielding for dust and water.

Sheet aluminum is good. My enclosure is not waterproof, but I would advise you go to the effort to make yours that way. Wiping off the esc after every puddle gets old. 3D printing would be really cool, but I have not been able to find anywhere affordable. Do you have access to a cnc router and vacuum former? You could do a cool enclosure that way.

Also, be careful how you attach your enclosure to the board. I got in a hurry, and just drilled through the deck and put machine screws into some aluminum standoffs inside the enclosure. Now, of course, the enclosure is rigidly attached to the deck and is subjected to a substantial amount of torsional force as the deck flexes. My enclosure is very thin sheet aluminum, and it is beginning to stress fracture as a result of all the twisting and bending. If I were to do it again (and I will have to, because what I have it tearing itself apart) I would look into industrial-strength Velcro or something else that will attach to the deck but still allow for some degree of movement. Just my opinion though.

Kristoffer

 

[torqueboards]

I bought some sheet aluminum to make an enclosure similar to PracticalProjects nice enclosure. Depending on the type of board there may be a concave or curve underneath the board. I was going to use the aluminum I did buy but I've been thinking of just 3D printing an enclosure too. Waiting on my drive wheels and will have my new board setup. Lpbug - post pics when you get your 3d printed enclosure. Same with me I just need an enclosure for dust/water. I want to make an enclosure for the motor + belt as well.

 

[lpbug]

Yes guys, thanks for the input. I am still working on a solution for the enclosure. 3D printing seems to be more viable for small enclosures like the motor enclosure. I have a fairly flat and rigid board so it will be interesting to measure how much flex can be induced. I spoke to the stock room guy at MIT's central machine shop today and his recommendation is to go with 5052 alloy since it is much more suited for bending. I wonder if this grade of aluminum will do better with flex induced stress? Vaccum forming seems interesting but would require me to join a lab that has the equipment. What other methods do you guys think can be considered for enclosing the electronics?

 

[torqueboards]

Speaking of Kydex might work also. They use it for gun and knife sheaths. You can buy some on amazon or ebay and you simply heat it with a heat gun and you can shape it. If you can vacuum form it even better. You can make your own vacuum form the main issue is creating a wooden mold similar to how beetbocks does it already with his. Kydex is real strong when it's not heated and is meant to take abuse from the blades of knives. It's similar to using ABS plastic and heating to form it.

There is also the aluminum enclosure similar to Practical Projects. His came out real nice. I'm most likely going to go with a 3d printed enclosure though. A slide in top similar to this one here would be great for a battery enclosure - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:110721. Would be easy to slip on and slip off.

 

[lpbug]

Creating a mold wouldn't be too hard as I have access to CNC mills/routers. I am now looking for access to a vacuum forming machine, we'll see how that goes- is high impact polystyrene a good candidate for impact/bend resistance? Or would ABS/other materials be better?. Meanwhile, I think the best bet for me is to first make an enclosure by bending aluminum, just as soon as I'm done with these stupid tests...

 

[torqueboards]

Nice, I would think ABS is more accessible. I don't know too much about polystyrene. Looking to see your results for both the aluminum enclosure and the molded enclosure. Should definitely offer it for sale. I'm looking for something similar to a thin boostedboards enclosure.

 

[lpbug]

Nice, I would think ABS is more accessible. I don't know too much about polystyrene. Looking to see your results for both the aluminum enclosure and the molded enclosure. Should definitely offer it for sale. I'm looking for something similar to a thin boostedboards enclosure.

I've been getting a lot of interest here on campus and multiple people have approached me inquiring whether I would sell parts... When I tell them it will be free and open sourced, they seem to be rather confused. Interesting, maybe I will machine some spare parts over winter break.

Anyway- this is the naked board I have been riding for about 2 weeks straight now. Admittedly, I shouldn't have ridden it through rain/dirt- but I did, and it really holds up great. No problems with the pulley even though I have not applied Locktite yet. No problems with the drive system. No problem with power system either.

Overall, the thing rides great, and I would like to make its appearance more reflective of the way it rides. The tape does get me some attention, though, so I might have to somehow work that into the more aesthetically rounded design. :lol:

 

[torqueboards]

LOL. Nice setup looks real thin. How heavy do you think your board is? What's the top speed? Can you climb some steep hills? Do you experience any sparks when connecting your batteries to the ESC ports? Can you ride off curbs with your setup since there's clearance underneath? Is your motor mount threaded when connected to the bracket or do you just use a nut at the end of it? You should take a look at Matthias enclosure. Would look nice with your board since it's pretty thin.

Yeah, I have a ducktape velcro cover and people are always wondering what it is and end up asking if it's electric.

 

[Murfix]

... I got in a hurry, and just drilled through the deck and put machine screws into some aluminum standoffs inside the enclosure. Now, of course, the enclosure is rigidly attached to the deck and is subjected to a substantial amount of torsional force as the deck flexes. My enclosure is very thin sheet aluminum, and it is beginning to stress fracture as a result of all the twisting and bending...

I was thinking about elongated holes/slots to counter this phenomenon. Also, make the enclosure as short as possible or make it out of multiple pieces that can 'breathe'. Haven't tried yet though. Anyone with some experience towards this?

 

[lpbug]

LOL. Nice setup looks real thin. How heavy do you think your board is? What's the top speed? Can you climb some steep hills? Do you experience any sparks when connecting your batteries to the ESC ports? Can you ride off curbs with your setup since there's clearance underneath? Is your motor mount threaded when connected to the bracket or do you just use a nut at the end of it? You should take a look at Matthias enclosure. Would look nice with your board since it's pretty thin.

Yeah, I have a ducktape velcro cover and people are always wondering what it is and end up asking if it's electric.

Weight- Not very heavy for its size- probably around 15 lbs. Top speed is ~20mph on a fully charged 6s, I can climb hills fairly well- again steep is kind of subjective. I think it climbs 20-25 degree hills pretty well as it can still accelerate uphill. My gear ratio is pretty torquey though, and my motors are cool so I might use a smaller gear on my wheel to get more speed. Yes I experience sparks when connecting my batteries to the ESC, but there's a switch on my ESC so the battery is generally already plugged in, I only ever see it when I disconnect and reconnect after charging. I don't usually ride off curbs with my long board, but the clearance is definitely nice since I can go over speed bumps without ever stopping- so this is a design element that I will keep. My motor mount is not threaded, I use a lock nut as I trust them more. I'll check out Matthias' enclosure, thanks.

 

[lpbug]

... I got in a hurry, and just drilled through the deck and put machine screws into some aluminum standoffs inside the enclosure. Now, of course, the enclosure is rigidly attached to the deck and is subjected to a substantial amount of torsional force as the deck flexes. My enclosure is very thin sheet aluminum, and it is beginning to stress fracture as a result of all the twisting and bending...

I was thinking about elongated holes/slots to counter this phenomenon. Also, make the enclosure as short as possible or make it out of multiple pieces that can 'breathe'. Haven't tried yet though. Anyone with some experience towards this?

Well, I've been thinking about this as well... Leaning towards velcro if I do a longer enclosure. But making the enclosure as short as possible and mounting it as close to the trucks as possible should minimize the effects of the bending forces. If we assume that we stand of the board fairly symmetrically and our center of mass is over the middle of the board, the middle should get the most deflection or bending. I suspect mounting closer towards either trucks should also work in minimizing the effects of bending forces.

 

[Murfix]

I agree, also the clearing is larger closer to the trucks.

 

[made_in_the_alps_legacy]

I was thinking about elongated holes/slots to counter this phenomenon. Also, make the enclosure as short as possible or make it out of multiple pieces that can 'breathe'. Haven't tried yet though. Anyone with some experience towards this?

I may suggest to fix the enclosure with 2 holding points only, located in line in the stiff direction (on the width rather than lenght), attachement shouldn't be too stiff and screwing might not be the best option, some use velcro but I had limited lifetime with mine, I now use cable ties whcih appear to be a good compromise, not too stiff and not too loose
I see u have a long battery and this one will have to live with the deck flex... you might go for fix points at the center of the battery and add 2 loose fixing point on each side of the battery where velcros would be sufficient.

 

[Murfix]

I was thinking about elongated holes/slots to counter this phenomenon. Also, make the enclosure as short as possible or make it out of multiple pieces that can 'breathe'. Haven't tried yet though. Anyone with some experience towards this?

I may suggest to fix the enclosure with 2 holding points only, located in line in the stiff direction (on the width rather than lenght), attachement shouldn't be too stiff and screwing might not be the best option, some use velcro but I had limited lifetime with mine, I now use cable ties whcih appear to be a good compromise, not too stiff and not too loose
I see u have a long battery and this one will have to live with the deck flex... you might go for fix points at the center of the battery and add 2 loose fixing point on each side of the battery where velcros would be sufficient.

I think that would solve the flex problem, but there would always be gaps between the enclosure and the deck and this would be susceptible to dirt & water and would also be ugly looking =/

 

[made_in_the_alps_legacy]

kitchen boxes then ? ahahahah

 

[Murfix]

kitchen boxes then ? ahahahah

Dude I wish I had all sizes of kitchen boxes like u do

 

[torqueboards]

Lpbug - Is it hard using the waterjet once you have your 3d model? I assume the waterjet only does specific cuts and doesn't do any threading or anything of the like. What 3d file format do you use when inputting into the waterjet?

I kind of want to learn how it's done and may have access to a waterjet. Is it fairly easy once you have the 3d model? You simply just need to know how to use and setup the equipment?

 

[kkEdlund]

Lpbug - Is it hard using the waterjet once you have your 3d model? I assume the waterjet only does specific cuts and doesn't do any threading or anything of the like. What 3d file format do you use when inputting into the waterjet?

I kind of want to learn how it's done and may have access to a waterjet. Is it fairly easy once you have the 3d model? You simply just need to know how to use and setup the equipment?

Waterjets are a strange animal. Most use proprietary software specific to them, ie. they don't run normal g-code like other cnc equipment (mills, lathes, etc...). The only waterjet I have ever used is an old Omax setup, and the software is very simple, perhaps too simple. This machine has 5 "cut qualities", basically feed rates, that control the quality of finish and cut time. As you can imagine, these two are somewhat proportional (better surface finish = longer cut time). Because the waterjet's software package does all the thinking for you, it is much simpler than traditional milling/lathework. Instead of having to select the right tool for the material/machining speed/type of cut you want work with, calculate the appropriate feed rate/spindle speed, etc. you can just tell the machine: "I am cutting 1/8" 6061 Aluminum. Use cut quality 3." It will then do all the math for you.

The Omax software package accepts .dxf files, which most if not all CAD packages can export to, and also supports part design within the waterjet software package (not nearly as nice as a real CAD program though). From your model, you create a series of two-dimensional paths the machine will follow, and assign cut qualities. There is a bIt of layout work to minimize waste, but nothing is really that hard.

Waterjets can (generally) only cut 2-D parts, so you can only make things that are flat. Waterjets cannot perform tapping operations, so no threaded holes.

If you have someone that can walk you through the specific software setup for your machine and show you how to operate it safely, you should be making parts in an afternoon. Just be careful. Most manufacturing equipment is inherently dangerous, and a waterjet is no different.

 

[torqueboards]

Thanks for the info eeK. Yeah, they will have a training session on how to use the machine before I actually use it. I figure spending all this money to get my machine work done. I might as well spend the money to learn how it is done, just to learn it. Crazy how the average personal pretty much knows nothing about this stuff. Aluminum comes real cheap too. I should end up saving money than having a shop do the work but the best part is actually learning how this stuff works.

 

[lpbug]

kkEdlund beat me to it- pretty much all that he said.

In other news: I am now working on MK I.5 of the board. Machined out new truck mounts and a motor mount. Starting a new thread geared more as a build guide after I gather more parts.

Hope everyone had a great thanksgiving.

 

[arjanmobin]

Hi. I am really interested in making one of these myself. i have everything except the motor mount for the caliber trucks and it would be great if you could post the files.

Thanks

 

[lpbug]

Hi. I have just released CAD files under the first post, enjoy.

 

[torqueboards]

What a guy! Awesome man! Should be beneficial to the people who have access to a machine shop or waterjet.

Lpbug - What is the size of the bolt that you use through the drive wheel cog?