Carbon Fiber E-Frame built ! by Doc

Yesterday i juts got my second Adaptto MAX-E kit for the 2WD :)

Next taks is to build the two wheels on the MXUS and also modify the wires for larger one.

I tried 10gauge to the axel hole with some added fiberglass flexible tube for better insulation but it did not fit. I think that simple shrink tube will work. The 10gauge wire wont get too hot to melt the 125degree C heat shring. i'll just need to pay attention to not damage them.

Doc
 
Hey Doc, Are you still using the older firmware RC7b?

Wondering if its still worth changing firmware, or do you get the same result from using the traction settings trick to override current limits?

Look forward to see how it goes with 2WD!
 
Stielz said:
Hey Doc, Are you still using the older firmware RC7b?

Wondering if its still worth changing firmware, or do you get the same result from using the traction settings trick to override current limits?

Look forward to see how it goes with 2WD!
Click to expand...


I still have the RC7b now.
i did not5 checked for the traction setting and RC9e yet but will do !

Doc
 
Looking forward to see what you come up with doc. This thread has been great fun to follow, hope you have gotten your front end motor build and modded so we can see some real world testing. I am sure you will get one of the quickest e-bikes ever with the 2 wd.

Did you ever visit the drag strip to do rear wheel testing? Would be awesome to see results from the strip to compare rwd and 2 wd.
 
macribs said:
Looking forward to see what you come up with doc. This thread has been great fun to follow, hope you have gotten your front end motor build and modded so we can see some real world testing. I am sure you will get one of the quickest e-bikes ever with the 2 wd.

Did you ever visit the drag strip to do rear wheel testing? Would be awesome to see results from the strip to compare rwd and 2 wd.
Click to expand...


I hope to do that soon for the single motor drag time .. even maybe tonight!

The problem i'm facing now is hot to install a hub motor on a DH fork that is made for 20m axel !!! :shock: I might need a custom axel.

Also to install the motor on the front suspension i might need to remove the two shock tubes from the double crown and install the motor on it and reinstall the tubes on the two crown. :?



I also discussed with John Metric about lipo battery. It is impossible for me to get the brand new nanotech for bilding my 22s and 300A burst for 15sec.. so i will buy the Loonestar 100C lipo batterie used by our epic drag racing guys!

Lonestar_Typical_Box_and_6S_cells-600x450.jpg


http://www.ampahaulic.com/

Doc
 
So you will tap out the Zero pouches running 2wd? If more is needed go big. Get some mad numbers. You probably should run the same batteries on both tests so that changes in battery will not be a factor when comparing results.

Oh yes I have been waiting for this. Hope you get to try today so we can get some real world data from your beast of a bike. I am so excited to see how things works when you have 2wd. I expect big things :D :twisted:

I had a talk with the dogati/AWD dude about that. Can't remember the exact way but he said it was easy on forks with 20mm thru axle.He even said something about no need for clamps to torque arms. Something clever about the axle. Sorry old mans brain and poor short term memory :)

Shoot him a PM and ask for tips and pics. I think he is one of the members with longest experience on dual motor. I am sure he can be of assistant.
 
kiwiev said:
Hey Doc the Loonestar Lipos where are you getting them from? how much $$? they sound cool whats there Ah? and weight?

Cheers Kiwi
Click to expand...


The Lonestar drag racing lipo come form military unclassified supply according to John Metric and he sell these 120$ per 6s 4.5Ah 100C rating pack. depending on the mokup he can get different voltage configuration packs but the basis pack are 6s for most o fthe drag racing use in the big 300-400V battery.

The reason for not using the Zero Farasis pack is that the cels can take only 7C burst and that's about 200A. I will need about 300A for both Max-E ( 150 or 160A each) so this will overstress these and i will damage them. If i get the Lonestar pack i know these are a REAL 100C rating and this C rate have been tested by people that have been torturing them for years in the Drag racing community :p These come with 8awg wire so this also is a sign of great care regarding the pack egineering.

I might need 4 ot 8 of these to mak emy 22s pack. This will reduce the weight by 10-15 pounds and reduce voltage sag.

My actual Farasis pack have 42 miliohm accordig to the Adaptto controller.. at 300A this would be a sag of 12.6V and 3.7kW dissipated in the pack for about 15 sec witch is enormous!.

Doc
 
Hey Doc,

as much as i like more power like yourself i would not recommend the front wheel hub.. If you did manage to get it all setup you probably would only be about to use 1/4 to 1/2 it potential power.. and it become dangerous when it wet..

If your doing off roading with some really deep tread tires i would say go for it..

my 2wd x5303 bike with 100amps limit per 24fet infinion 4110 modified controllers make the bike way unsafe..then again my bike frame was a cheap free frame with front brake only lol..

I still have yet to build the frame/bike of the dual winding hub monster motor that i got from john in cr a while back.. I have literally everything to build except the bike frame... but all it power will be put down on a moped/motorcycle type 4" ish tire .. in time hopefully

*caution ebike stupidity*

https://youtu.be/tP0iSOG9Br0
-steveo
 
Hey steveo, thanks for the worries :wink:

Well That 2WD bike setup is Only for drag racing on a straight line drag strip. Also most of these drag strip have that kind of glue on the ground witch help the grip a lot!.. I am playing with the psi of the fron tire to find the right spot of grip.

But winter is knock to our door very fast and I might run out of time for this year sadly.

But for next spring everything will be 101% ready!.

Doc
 
Willow said:
Stevo.... Doc is trying to get back to 1981. Surely this bike is capable of 1.21GW
Click to expand...

:mrgreen:

Plutinium is pretty rare un Quebec... so i found drag racing LiPo!!! :twisted:

Doc
 
that was a good one :lol:
 
what i would suggest is put a pink little bicycle basket up front of the bike and put the flux capacitor inside to hold down the front end of the bike.. but in reality you tell everyone it is powering the bike

haha


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Authentic-Back-To-The-Future-delorean-80s-Flux-Capacitor-movie-prop-Replica-/381428653464?hash=item58ceeb5d98:g:nTsAAOSwPgxVRPeC



-steveo
 

Attachments

  • flux.jpg
    flux.jpg
    140.9 KB · Views: 843
Doc do you remember how long you made the strands in the coil..

50 strands of 22 gauge -- how long untwisted or twisted approx?

Could you not of used some 6 gauge or 8 gauge wire wrapped around the core instead?

-steveo


Doctorbass said:
Hey guys My charge coil is finally perfectly working now!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Just Remember... the Adaptto controller have the feature to charge your battery desired voltage from ANY power supply voltage and it will regulate current and voltage itself :wink:

The coil and caps remain cold ( 25-30 Celsius at 1050Watts)

I have built many different coil from various core that i had and finally i decided to order the "E" shape core that the russian site was recommanding ( Jeka on the forum) and i have used 50 strands of insulated 22 gauge copper that i twisted and paralleled together and wound 18 turn. The total strands are equivalent to a gauge 5 wire withc can take 60-70A continuous very easy!!

I have 112uH inductance in serie and 1200uF 100V caps in parallel to the power supply.

I have measured the coil resistance and it is 3 miliohm. ( 0.3V at 100A DC)

At 70A of power supply current it would dissipate 14.7watts only... not bad !!

This work perfectly and i was said that this setup is good to charge at up to 3 to 4 kW! :twisted:

I am really happy now!!


[youtube]pJtUT9-CF9s[/youtube]

(Same post on the NYX bike project)

Doc
Click to expand...
 
flathill said:
Can we get it without the logo?
Click to expand...
Nope. Contacted them about this. They wont sell the frame without the stickers put on it. They did say you can get it off with some patience (read a lot of elbow grease).
 
isopropyl alcohol gets the stickers off, the glue is rather persistent, youll need a fair wad of rags :wink:
not too sure about the silver logo on the headtube though, looks like its stuck on there with epoxy. you would probably need to buff the residue off with polishing powder.
 
Come to think of your build when I saw this radical e-bike build. Single mid drive motor, outperform 450 ccm engines bikes.
Motor is from Joby, and they will wire motor any way you like. Even 6 phase of you should drop max current from 2 controllers into it.
IIRC the bike is made by toolman2. I do think there was a thread about it, but can't seem to find back to it.


[youtube]cxBbNV6jK8E[/youtube]


Also worth seeing. Same bike, same motor.

[youtube]Xq0LHTnthjk[/youtube]
 
Forgot to post link to another powerful mid motor, the Lynchmotor LEM 200. http://lynchmotors.co.uk/generators-motors_generators.html
36 kw peak power.
 
Doc what anderson´s conector are you using to conect fases outside motor?
 
chucho said:
Doc what anderson´s conector are you using to conect fases outside motor?
Click to expand...


I am using the 6mm bullet connectors that come with the Adaptto. For that kind of power these beat easy the anderson for their low resistance and how compact they are!

Doc
 
Doctorbass said:
chucho said:
Doc what anderson´s conector are you using to conect fases outside motor?
Click to expand...


I am using the 6mm bullet connectors that come with the Adaptto. For that kind of power these beat easy the anderson for their low resistance and how compact they are!

Doc
Click to expand...

Thank you Doc.

I mean these conectors
file.php

What size are they?
 
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