Carbon Fiber E-Frame built ! by Doc

Longshot said:
Doctorbass said:
This is confirmed. I will make my first NYX to be 2WD with easy front motor removal for 1WD.

I am working woth Oleg at Adaptto drive lab to get another Max-E in slave to my 1st max-E and get these shipped soon.

I will play with that and experiment the feeling and the pros and cons of 2WD. I will also spend time to tune the proper power curve to the front Wheel.

I might go with a rear Cromotor ans a front MXUS 3000 or dual MXUS 3000 but i'm still waiting to get the MXUS3000 in 3T version to be availlabe on the ebike simulator to compare.

I am not decided yet if i go with the 3t or 4T... and if i keep 22s or drop to 20s... it will depend on the motor choice alot of decision coming guys! :lol:

Doc
Click to expand...

A maxe for the front seems like a waste without traction. Is it possible to use a mini in the front and a maxe for the rear? Will you use a nice fork with dampening? I wonder how the variable regen will feel on the front.
Click to expand...

I will reduce the power to the Max-E on the front. I wonted yo buy a Max E because if i want to return to 1WD i will be able to keep that max-E for another powerfull E-project :wink:

All parameters are adjustable for each motor including the traction control :wink:

Doc
 
I was just telling Cedrick that he should make a 2wd forkless bike. That would be cool so you dont feel the weight of the front motor through the steering.

I like 2wd, too. I would want a small motor with lots of torque to move a 19" JRH front Up to about 30 mph and then cut out and let the rear take over.

I dont think I have seen a 2wd on a sprung fork.
 
Doctorbass said:
This is confirmed. I will make my first NYX to be 2WD with easy front motor removal for 1WD.

I am working woth Oleg at Adaptto drive lab to get another Max-E in slave to my 1st max-E and get these shipped soon.

I will play with that and experiment the feeling and the pros and cons of 2WD. I will also spend time to tune the proper power curve to the front Wheel.

I might go with a rear Cromotor ans a front MXUS 3000 or dual MXUS 3000 but i'm still waiting to get the MXUS3000 in 3T version to be availlabe on the ebike simulator to compare.

I am not decided yet if i go with the 3t or 4T... and if i keep 22s or drop to 20s... it will depend on the motor choice alot of decision coming guys! :lol:

Doc
Click to expand...
i have now used both 22s and 20s with max-e controller(2 separate units)

i believe they were set with the same cromotor settings on both bikes, the ovs set at around 5 but it definately felt like the 20s 25r pack topped out at much lower speed to the 22s 20r bike, even though the rear wheel is slightly larger, 18" not 16' like on the 22s.

this could be because the latest max-e i bought for the 20s bike has slightly newer firmware and i believe the older version diddnt limit the power accurately or something,

but basically i am suspecting that the 22s really makes for the fastest option, despite all the talk of only needing 20s.



with the cro on the rear and mxus on front should feel nice and ballenced on take-off :wink:
 
Does the NYX frame have rear adjustable suspension like the raptor? This would be so you could use smaller rear tires and still maintain proper geometry.

Do the rear shock mounts bolt onto the frame where you could then choose the size you needed to raise or lower the shock?
 
Offroader said:
Does the NYX frame have rear adjustable suspension like the raptor? This would be so you could use smaller rear tires and still maintain proper geometry.

Do the rear shock mounts bolt onto the frame where you could then choose the size you needed to raise or lower the shock?
Click to expand...

Yes we do :D You can choose between 8 different suspension bracket positions. So, depending on your wheel size and shock length, you can obtain your desired geometry by choosing the right suspension bracket size (High or Low profile) and their positions.
If you are familiar with bike Geometry table, I invite you to look at this page : https://nyxbikes.com/product/
 
-Awesome work Doc! That's a very nice inductor build. I`m looking for the max. charging current for a 20S and 22S battery pack. Do you have some datas for me?
-I have some PSU like +2000W and +3200W so good power, but how much charging current can the great max-e?
 
I know that some reported charging to up to 3 or 4kw, but it is recommanded to use more than one of the 3 phase wire. To better share the current over all the mosfet. But i think you neec ine charging coil and caps per phase that you ude to charge. I suggest asking allex or andrew.

Personally i also tested charging on 12v for fun at up to 50a and it worked well. But i will use my cherokee ans Eaton and meanwell rsp to charge at 55v witch is more efficient.

Doc
 
Doctorbass said:
I know that some reported charging to up to 3 or 4kw, but it is recommanded to use more than one of the 3 phase wire. To better share the current over all the mosfet. But i think you neec ine charging coil and caps per phase that you ude to charge. I suggest asking allex or andrew.

Personally i also tested charging on 12v for fun at up to 50a and it worked well. But i will use my cherokee ans Eaton and meanwell rsp to charge at 55v witch is more efficient.

Doc
Click to expand...

@Doc: Thanks for your fast return, but send only your max. charging current you ever test
@Doc: I ask allex but he told me he had no max-e and PSU for sending testing datas.
@andrew: please send us the max. charging current from your max-e, thanks for your helping hand!
 
Ok time for some fresh update! :D

I have received my Adaptto Max-E back from warranty repair Russia recently and i reinstalled it on the NYX.

I also removed my controller KILLER motor (the clyte 5302 with a kv of 18 !) and replaced it with my 5403 from the Giant.

The 5403 is on a Maxxis 24 x 2.5 ( equal to 25 inch dia).

I have redone the autodetect function for that motor and manually finetuned it 9 PWr timing, Ind timing etc..

Yesterday after hard work on the house and garden it was time for me to test that reborn NYX ebike! I did a 108km ride on great cycle path we have here ( an old converted train track to cycle path).

With the still locked firmware I got power peak of 10.5kW and very great acceleration until about 85-90 kmh on BOOST mode.

Phase amp are set to 358A and batt amp are set to 132A and i'm running 22s.

I have to say that I really lke this bike and how the handling is so well. My 5403 is on a 24" tire witch improove alot the confort compar eto a 20" Wheel of the old 5302. on a 108km ride it make a significant difference.

My average speed was 58km/h and peak to about 101km/h in some desert long section of the cycle path and as well when there was other cyclist near to me i was driving at 35km/h to respect them.

The motor remain very cold.. and controller too even if i had alot of great acceleration to sustained 7-8kw.

Next will be to install the MXUS 3000 3t on rear and compare.. then buying the 2nd Adaptto Max-E and modify the axel of my 2nd MXUS 3000 3t to fit the front fork.

Doc
 
NEW TOP SPEED RECORDED :twisted: 20 may 2015

116km/h on flat, no wind with 10.3kW, ONLY !!

This beat my previous top speed of 113km/h 3-4 years ago!

-batt: 22s lipo NMC SOC at 87%
-batt amp seting : 136A
-phase current setting: 354A
- motor: 5403 on 25" wheel
-OVS setting : 5
-Power timing seting: 2.29
- rear tire: MAxxis Hookwork 24 x 2.5"
- front tire: Duro 24 x 3.00" offroad tire similar to the wide bite and not very aerodynamic !

I have to say that the power timing make a hugu difference!!

With power timing set to 0, my max speed is 104km/h and with power timing set to 2.29 i get 116 witch is 12 km/h more at high speed already!

With power timimg the acceleration is stronger at high speed and batt current reach easy 155A and i get 12.5kW ! Yes i recorded a new POWER BURST of 12.5kW !during acceleration..

According to my estimations and experience, at high speed the hp number i get is usually the same as the number for kW used ( and similar to the 0.746 ratio) witch mean my bike is probably 12.5hp at the wheel.

I am very curious to see how the MXUS 3000 wil be compare to the 40mm 5403 Crystalyte motor! even with dual MXUS ! 8)

and guess what? after all these test and top speed and acceleration i was still able to touch the motor stator winding thru the vent holes without even burning my fingers!! :shock: = motor not too hot.

Doc
 
ridethelightning said:
:lol: sounds like your having a blast Doc! :lol:
Click to expand...

Yeah i am very happy with gthe result.

what i find very impressive is how well this mooded 5403 handle the heat well! Look like all the extra aluminum chanel i have added inside for liquid cooling work very well to take the eat.. without even any liquid, pump and radiator yet.

Doc
 
great_scott-s400x341-252428.png


I used PWR timing of 2,26 for my 5403 setup. So you have probably the right settings there!
Also, if you want better acceleration at start you should try 7b firmware. When I flashed from 7 to 9 I noticed that my acceleration was much slower. The power just was not the same. It has to do with the starting algorithm that they changed on the newer firmwares(7 starts on sqwav and then goes over to sine and 9 starts with sine directly...something like that) and also the phase amps. In newer versions the phase amp limitations is pretty much correct so if you set it at 350 it will produce 350 while on 7b firmare when you set 350 in reality it could as much as 450.
Version 9 has also OVS limitations it will not let the wheel spin faster than 15% of the pack voltage while 7b is pretty much unlimited.
 
peters said:
video or didn't happen! ;)

What is power timing? Is it the setting for field weakening?
Click to expand...

The power timing make a difference at high speed. I am still not sure what similarity to the OVS but as far as i know with ovs = 5 and pwr timing to 0 i get 104km/h max and with OVS to 5 and PWR timing set to 2.29 i get 116km/h top speed 8)

At that speed the front wheel beging to wobble a bit and look like i would need a stering damper lol

I will ask Jeka about the diff between both OVS and PWR timing.

Personally i think that due to the inductance of the winding that create a delay between current pulse and magnetic field to be created at high speed the faster rpm require to reduce the delay to continu pushing current at the right timing.. and the timing need to be readjusted. The OVS is different and exist to compensate for lack of battery voltage and fake a new lower BEMF to leo current continu to flow...

in other words i thik that :

-OVS is to compensate for low battery voltage give similar speed to a higher battery voltage
-PWR TIMIMG is to compensate for the relative delay of the current to the produced magnetic field at high rpm.. just like the Vtec does on Honda ICE.

Doc
 
Allex said:
great_scott-s400x341-252428.png


I used PWR timing of 2,26 for my 5403 setup. So you have probably the right settings there!
Also, if you want better acceleration at start you should try 7b firmware. When I flashed from 7 to 9 I noticed that my acceleration was much slower. The power just was not the same. It has to do with the starting algorithm that they changed on the newer firmwares(7 starts on sqwav and then goes over to sine and 9 starts with sine directly...something like that) and also the phase amps. In newer versions the phase amp limitations is pretty much correct so if you set it at 350 it will produce 350 while on 7b firmare when you set 350 in reality it could as much as 450.
Version 9 has also OVS limitations it will not let the wheel spin faster than 15% of the pack voltage while 7b is pretty much unlimited.
Click to expand...

Jeez, why didn't you tell me all of this Allex when I was complaining about the phase amps.

Well, I think I may actually enjoy the increased range and cooler motor.
 
Allex said:
I was telling this to all, all the time :) that is why I only run with 7b. You motor deserves better performance :)
Click to expand...


Allex, When you switch to 7B, yuo loose all the benefit of all new improovement too? how is your feeling with older firmware version and bugs?

Personally i got 12.5kW burst and saw 155-160A once i have adjusted the PWR timimg to the proper value. with the lastest RC9e version but i agree that the low speed acceleration is lower and even lower than with a 18 fets 4110 moded...
On my side i had to reduce the phase current a bit because if i go WOT from a stop it cut immediatly and i see !HALL! appear a brief instant... just like if the Hall wires of my 5403 would be sensitive to the intense magnetic field from the high phase current at startop and controller would just cut and protect... displaying !HALL!...


Doc
 
What improvements do you mean? What I use is charging function, BMS function and sometimes profiles.
Things like Active regen and antitheft I don't bother about. For me the performance and basic functions like above is most essential. Therefore my personal opinion is that rc7b is the best performer and actually things like charging bugs that you have are non existent.

You should try it, it is a 15min job :) one thing that you should notice is that acceleration is about 2x faster haha. rc9 is slower on most motors but especially on your motor, 54xx it has a different stator with angled teeth and I heard that this may not be a good config together with max.

Once thing about rc7b is it has a nasty bug, if you leave it on charge for longer than 6 hours the fets can blow out. It has a timer that counts and after about 6 hours timer runs out and nasty things(50%) could happen. But In my case I never experienced this.
I should talk to Jeka making a rc7 with fixed timer :)

When my controller arrived it had rc8, I was deeply dissipated with the performance going from a 18FET infinion board. SO Andrey said to downgrade to 7 and after that I was happy.
 
il eave my charger on overnight to ballence, sometimes for days :shock:

no trouble so far.

i think im running 7b, better double check..
 
Allex, Firmware updated to RC7b.

Real Acceleration is back !! :twisted:

Doc
 
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