Controller for brushless motor

halfday

10 µW
Joined
Feb 11, 2025
Messages
6
Location
Eastington, Gloucestershire
Hi everyone, I am new to this site, though having tried many others I am still in need of a cyndrical controller for brushless motor, I have a Vitesse signal ebike, the controller fits in the seat post, model KT36SVPR-CK02, Rated voltage DC36V, Rated current 6A, Low voltage DC28 5 + 0. 5V, there doesn't seem to be anyone that knows where I can get another one, even the shop I bought the bike from can't get me another.
I have attached a photo of the controller.
 

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How about this one? I happened to see it a while ago, and wondered if i could use it on my DYI bikes, Did you blow the controller on the Vitesse?

cylinder.jpg
 
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No, the cables are so tight under the crank that I suspect that some wire strands within one or more of the cables have broken, if I push and move the cables about I get a connection, I have used cable ties to fasten them but after a few days of riding I lose connection again, I am confident that the problem lies with broken wire strands, the controller you have mentioned though rated current 7A
How about this one? I happened to see it a while ago, and wondered if i could use it on my DYI bikes, Did you blow the controller on the Vitesse?

View attachment 365560

is different, will that suit, maximum current on mine is 13±1A, there's also too many cables, though I could omit the two that's not needed
 
If it’s functional then a cable repair shouldn’t be too difficult. Which cable appears to have the issue? If you’re going to replace it anyway, it’s worth giving it a try.

Your controller is rated at 6A, with a 12A peak. The one docw009 linked (7A, 15A peak) will likely work, if the diameter fits and your battery is in ok shape.
 
Okay I will keep that in mind, as far as I am aware the battery is in good condition, as for the diameter of mine and the one you have suggested I will have to measure and see what dimensions are of the suggested one, I have just had a call from my son and he suggested taking it to his place of work, he is a mechanical engineer and there are electrical engineers also work with him, so got a good chance of having this rewired, sounds like a plan.
Thanks for everyone's input on this, I will give you an update hopefully when I get it back
 
Broken cables are easy to detect with a continuity tester. Does the display turn off or does the bike just not work. The former is probably that two pin power cable. Looks kind of ragged..
 
Display stays on and works as normal, modes change, 1-5, it's only the motor that stops working, battery light (on) and battery segments on display registers full and each segment down, the motor this time stopped last week after 2 hours into a ride, display stayed on as normal, there is a two pin plug but the plug that plugs into the cable that feeds to the motor is nine pin, if you look at the photo you can see the condition of the cables, the longer one with the plug out of view is the one that connects to the motor.
The cables all connect under the crank open to all the weather and with very little or no movement, cables are I would say are taught and at an acute angle, if the cables were about 10mm to 12mm longer then there's a good possibility this wouldn't happen, I suppose when my son takes it work they will no doubt do a continuity test as you mentioned before doing anything else, thank you for your time on this, it's most appreciated, that's also to everyone who has joined into this thread 👍
 
Display stays on and works as normal, modes change, 1-5, it's only the motor that stops working, battery light (on) and battery segments on display registers full and each segment down, the motor this time stopped last week after 2 hours into a ride, display stayed on as normal, there is a two pin plug but the plug that plugs into the cable that feeds to the motor is nine pin, if you look at the photo you can see the condition of the cables, the longer one with the plug out of view is the one that connects to the motor.
Good info. Looking online, it looks like the bike only operates via pedal assist, so that’s the first cable I’d test (can’t see pins in the pics, but should be a 3 pin that goes to the bottom bracket area where the PAS is located). An issue with any of the 3 conductors could cause the motor not to run.
The next thing I’d check would be the hall sensor conductors (small pins on the motor connector. Specifically, I’d check the 5v and ground conductors since either of those failing would not allow the motor to run. If the other hall conductors were flakey, the motor would still spin or jerk erratically. If the motor phase conductors (large pins) have a poor connection, usually the motor will run roughly (sometime a groaning noise).
 
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