Controller Upgrade: Best Options & Must-Do Mods

[jarQ]

Hi everyone,

I recently bought an e-bike kit (link: https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/1005...t_main.30.393d1802iD4Flh&gatewayAdapt=glo2pol) with HailongG80 48V20Ahbattery and EKD01 display. It came with JYTcon UART controller YCSY126-043-48TC6. Unfortunately, after some testing I’ve realized the stock setup is not really what I want. The controller feels kind of “brain-dead” – no matter which assist level I’m in, it always tries to reach the target speed as quickly as possible by dumping full power. Basically, it makes the bike behave like a scooter rather than giving a natural pedaling feel. That kills the fun of riding for me.

I’d like to upgrade the controller (and possibly the display) to something more flexible.
Here’s what I’m looking for in a new setup:

• Power/speed per PAS level: ability to configure both max power and max speed independently for each assist level. (This is the most important feature for me)
• Throttle behavior: option to set throttle so it delivers full power without being limited by the current speed in each assist level.
• Legal/Off-road switch: a way to toggle between legal mode and off-road mode (ideally via a physical button or display key combo). In legal mode I’d like throttle to only act as “walk assist.”
• Plug & Play compatibility: the closer to plug-and-play with my current kit, the better (see AliExpress link).
• Low cost: I don’t want to overspend – just looking for the smartest upgrade.
• Safety checks: what should I verify before plugging in a new controller so I don’t fry the motor/display?

I’ll attach some pictures of my current controller + display so you can see what I’m working with.


What controller/display combos would you recommend that tick these boxes?
Any known mods or must-do checks before swapping?


Thanks in advance – really appreciate your input!


— Jarek

 

[stancecoke]

I'm running a branch of the EBiCS firmware on my JYTCon, so I can set whatever I want

 

[jarQ]

That sounds like a great solution - provided my controller model is flashable. I’ve read a bit about EBiCS, even saw mentions in your posts, but I’m still a total noob in this area. With a bit of help, though, I think I can manage - after all, it’s not the first thing I’ve “blown up”

I’m attaching photos of my controller, which is completely potted. How’s the best way to upgrade it without getting into the innards? Is there a plug-and-play method to access the UART/flash port on the outside?

Thanks for any tips!

 

[stancecoke]

Is there a plug-and-play method to access the UART/flash port on the outside?

No, the JYTcon has a bootloader, but I don't know how to use it
@mechaniker has built a little tool to press the PCB out of the case.

https://www.pedelecforum.de/forum/index.php?threads/12-fet-lishui-controller-fuer-tretsensor.89037/post-2029595

My JYTcon from YosePower is for the Hailing Battery holder, you can get access to the SWD header much easier....

JYT Controller Integrated with Hailong Battery Holder with 5 Gold-Plated Round Plug for YOSE POWER 250W Complete Rear Motor Kit

Discover advanced integration with the JYT Controller integrated into the Hailong battery holder, featuring a 5 gold-plated round plug. Enhance your YOSE POWER 250W Complete Rear Motor Kit with precise control and efficient power delivery, ensuring a seamless riding experience.

yosepower.com

 

[jarQ]

Thank you for all the great advice. After considering the options, I've decided not to proceed with the controller modification.
I just don't have the right tools to safely remove the PCB from the casing, and I'm not comfortable risking damage to the board.

Since I can't modify the existing one, the only viable option is a full controller replacement. With that in mind, I'd like to go back to the original topic and start the conversation from the beginning.

 

[E-HP]

Thank you for all the great advice. After considering the options, I've decided not to proceed with the controller modification.
I just don't have the right tools to safely remove the PCB from the casing, and I'm not comfortable risking damage to the board.

Since I can't modify the existing one, the only viable option is a full controller replacement. With that in mind, I'd like to go back to the original topic and start the conversation from the beginning.

The behavior of the throttle and PAS are primarily due to the controller using a speed, rather than current or power based control. Controller replacement with another brand, like KT can solve that issue, and there is some adjustment for PAS and power as well. Not many controllers will have your toggle legal on off wish/fantasy.

You also have the option of keeping what you have and adding a Cycle Analyst in front of it,since the CA uses a current and voltage feedback loop, it can manipulate the throttle signal to emulate a current/power based throttle and PAS, plus it can do much more, including the legal on off, by using the configurable modes. If you go this route, and you want to upgrade to more power later, the CA can work with the new controller with minimal changes. I was using a variable pot for PAS assistance, so I just turn the knob to the assist I want (the CA has both a along and digital options), and also using cadence ramping, but now I’m upgrading to a torque sensing PAS, since the CA supports either.

 

[jarQ]

I spoke with specialist from one of the largest e-bike online shops here, who recommended a KT controller and an LCD3 display. He noted the controller has a wire for a switchable legal mode, which I like.

My main concern, however, is his warning that I'll have to manually check the pinout of all my current components (like the PAS sensor, toggle sensor, etc.) to ensure the wiring order is compatible and avoid damage.
Has anyone here dealt with this issue? What's the best way to safely verify the wiring before connecting everything to the new controller?


I also think a Cycle Analyst would be a great solution. I have gone through the manual and videos and I'm not sure if it's compatible with my current e-bike or how to properly wire it.



Has anyone here dealt with these issues? I'm trying to decide between the two options and could use some advice. What's the best way to safely verify the wiring for a new KT controller, and is a CA a good solution here?

 

[E-HP]

I spoke with specialist from one of the largest e-bike online shops here, who recommended a KT controller and an LCD3 display. He noted the controller has a wire for a switchable legal mode, which I like.

I haven’t seen a KT controller with a speed limit jumper. Do you have a link? There is a maximum trip speed parameter in the setup, but will take a few clicks to change (in case you were planning on quickly switching when you see cops). The KT is probably the easier way to go in your case. I believe you can find one with the HiGo L10 motor connector.

 

[jarQ]

I have link to KT with quick speed and power limit.

KT36/48SVPRMB controller 36-48V 30A (sine) Black

Buy KT36/48SVPRMB controller 36-48V 30A (sine) Black for your electric bike. Check it out and order online now!

nexun.pl

They said that KT has 9 pin motor connector. You can see the pinout diagram for the KT controller in link.

I only want to know how to check the pinout of all my current components, otherwise I will have to buy news sensors for throttle, pas, etc.

 

[E-HP]

I have link to KT with quick speed and power limit.

KT36/48SVPRMB controller 36-48V 30A (sine) Black

Buy KT36/48SVPRMB controller 36-48V 30A (sine) Black for your electric bike. Check it out and order online now!

nexun.pl

They said that KT has 9 pin motor connector. You can see the pinout diagram for the KT controller in link.

I only want to know how to check the pinout of all my current components, otherwise I will have to buy news sensors for throttle, pas, etc.

Must be an option for the European market.
Check your existing motor connector. L10 has 10 pins. You’re describing the HiGo Z910 with 9 pins.

 

[jarQ]

That’s why I’m looking for clear instructions on how to rewire or modify the plug and, most importantly, how to check which wire should go to which pin—both at the motor and at the other sensors (throttle, PAS, etc.).

I was also wondering if there are any ready-made adapters from L1019 to Z910. I’ve searched around but couldn’t find anything so far. If anyone has done this before or has a wiring diagram, I’d really appreciate your help

 

[E-HP]

That’s why I’m looking for clear instructions on how to rewire or modify the plug and, most importantly, how to check which wire should go to which pin—both at the motor and at the other sensors (throttle, PAS, etc.).

I was also wondering if there are any ready-made adapters from L1019 to Z910. I’ve searched around but couldn’t find anything so far. If anyone has done this before or has a wiring diagram, I’d really appreciate your help

Swapping out the controller and display isn’t difficult, but how to instructions will take a lot of typing back and forth in order to get the details clarified. Im on a tablet, so not feasible for typing that much, but others can help. Are you sure you are up to it?
Do you know how to solder? Do you have wire crimpers? Do you have a digital multimeter?

I have a description on DIY kit building, vs building DIY from components, which is what you’re moving towards. You can read those parts of my faq to see what you may be getting into. Honestly anyone with patience and confidence can get there, since I see many with very little previous experience successfully building from components.

DIY Newb FAQ?

2021 proposal I think I've read through all of the stickies in the ebike forums, which provide great guidance. Yet, I see a lot a new folks getting into ebikes and posting questions that are not in the stickies, or are embedded somewhere among the existing stickies. Another observation is there...

endless-sphere.com

 

[docw009]

When you change controllers/displays to another brand, first you have to resolve the motor connector. The Z916 has been used for higher current motors.


Your existing controller shows a handlebar harness in the advertisement. with water proof connectors on throttle and 3 pin (yellow connector) brakes. I would not expect this harness to match the KT 4n1 harness at the controller plug. but it might. However, they are not expensive. Why not buy a KT harness (with yellow brake connectors) with the controller. Your existing throttle should be a yellow 3 pin using female socket from the throttle side. The brakes would be two yellow connectors that have male pins from the brakes.

It looks like your motor is a direct drive (non geared) motor? A DD motor spins by hand with same resistance forward and backward. A geared motor engages its gear when spun backward and you can feel the resistance. A gearless motor doesn't need a speed sensor. Most geared motors have internal speed sensors wired into the 9 pin cable.

Normally, converting to a different controller involves some connector splicing. With most bikes using handlebar harnesses with julet/higo connectors, maybe, just maybe, it will be plug and play,

I can't predict whether you will like the KT controller for pedal assist on a 1000W DD motor. I install them on all my ebike conversions to get a better pedal assistance, but I have never tried a 1000W DD motor..

 

[E-HP]

It looks like your motor is a direct drive (non geared) motor? A DD motor spins by hand with same resistance forward and backward. A geared motor engages its gear when spun backward and you can feel the resistance. A gearless motor doesn't need a speed sensor. Most geared motors have internal speed sensors wired into the 9 pin cable.

That’s why it’s odd they used what appears to be an L10 connector. Googling JYTcon controllers, most use the Z910 connector. It would be nice if the motor had a temp sensor, but the EKD01 doesn’t support/display temperature, so I’m guessing the motor doesn’t have one. Grafting on a Z910, and running separate HiGo extension cables to the PAS, throttle, and brakes to the KT seems like one way to go, minimizing the soldering/crimping.

 

[jarQ]

If I managed to assemble the kit I currently have, and I’ve got two hands, a soldering iron, a multimeter, and a few years of experience behind me , I think I’ll manage. Thanks for the description.

I’ll check if I can buy both L10 and Z910 connectors, and maybe I’ll just make such an adapter myself. That way I won’t need to cut the existing harness, and it might come in handy in the future.
You suggest getting a 4-in-1 harness that matches the connectors I already have on the sensors – good advice, I’ll definitely keep that in mind. Still, what I really wonder about is whether the sensor wires are always in the correct order at the connectors.
My neighbor has a 1000W DD + KT + LCD3 and it works perfectly. On PAS level 1 he has it set to 50W, on level 2 it’s 150W – that’s exactly the kind of setup I’m looking for.

Either way, I’m moving forward with the purchase. If I run into any issues along the way, I’ll post an update. Your advice is still very valuable and always welcome. Thanks a lot for the help!

 

[stancecoke]

On PAS level 1 he has it set to 50W, on level 2 it’s 150W – that’s exactly the kind of setup I’m looking for.

You can't set a level to an individual value with a Kunteng. You can only set the maximum (battery) current, the levels are set to fixed percentages of the max current.
You can set it to individual levels with a Lishui:

https://www.ebike-solutions.com/media/pdf/90/71/fd/User-manual-EBS-Display-Mini-Dot-Matrix-V2-Version-V1-0.pdf

 

[E-HP]

If I managed to assemble the kit I currently have, and I’ve got two hands, a soldering iron, a multimeter, and a few years of experience behind me , I think I’ll manage. Thanks for the description.

I’ll check if I can buy both L10 and Z910 connectors, and maybe I’ll just make such an adapter myself. That way I won’t need to cut the existing harness, and it might come in handy in the future.
You suggest getting a 4-in-1 harness that matches the connectors I already have on the sensors – good advice, I’ll definitely keep that in mind. Still, what I really wonder about is whether the sensor wires are always in the correct order at the connectors.
My neighbor has a 1000W DD + KT + LCD3 and it works perfectly. On PAS level 1 he has it set to 50W, on level 2 it’s 150W – that’s exactly the kind of setup I’m looking for.

Either way, I’m moving forward with the purchase. If I run into any issues along the way, I’ll post an update. Your advice is still very valuable and always welcome. Thanks a lot for the help!

Great! You’ll likely be happy with that setup for a while. It’s pretty much the same as my first build. I got a 1000w 9C clone kit for $160, but never installed the junk controller, got an 18FET KT sine wave and LCD3, but used a 52v pack instead. It was cheap fun for thousands of miles.
If you have a manual to a version of LCD3 that allows you to set individual PAS levels, then it would be nice if you could share a link here for future reference.

 

[hillslayer@]

If you really wanted a super adjustable motor for less than what you have invested something like a bafang Bbso2 would be better. If you like to pedal mid -drive is the way .

 

[jarQ]

You can't set a level to an individual value with a Kunteng. You can only set the maximum (battery) current, the levels are set to fixed percentages of the max current.
You can set it to individual levels with a Lishui:

You’re right, the power levels can only be set the way you described.
Since with Lishui it’s possible to configure individual levels, do you recommend any specific controller + display set from them? Ideally something reliable for a 1000W DD motor, with good PAS support. Also, if you know a trusted source or shop where I could buy such a set, that would be super helpful.

 

[jarQ]

If you have a manual to a version of LCD3 that allows you to set individual PAS levels, then it would be nice if you could share a link here for future reference.

I don’t have it, sorry for the confusion, but the KT controller power configuration is limited exactly as stancecoke wrote

 

[jarQ]

If you really wanted a super adjustable motor for less than what you have invested something like a bafang Bbso2 would be better. If you like to pedal mid -drive is the way .

Yeah, that does sound pretty cool I was actually looking into it before, but I never found any info saying it would work with a HUB motor. I saw there’s the Speeedo app for Bafang – is that what you mean?
If you could point me to what I’d have to swap out in my setup, or even better drop a few shop links, that would be awesome

 

[stancecoke]

Power/speed per PAS level: ability to configure both max power and max speed independently for each assist level. (This is the most important feature for me)

Hm, Bafang hubmotor controllers with 1000W/48V are rare, I found this one with CAN bus. The CAN system is programmable similar to the UART version. But there is not much experience with the Open Source solution that's using the cheap canable cable yet.
And of course, you would need a compatible display also.

https://aliexpress.com/item/1005008854179832.html

The Bafang CR C101 hub motor controller seems to be a good choice....

 

[jarQ]

I’ve been checking a few more details and realized that switching to a KT controller isn’t as straightforward as I first thought. It would also require replacing the 1T4 cable with a 1T5, as well as the hydraulic brake sensors and the throttle.

Since I’d prefer to avoid too many wiring modifications, could anyone advise whether a Bafang controller would be a better plug-and-play option? More specifically, I’m interested to know if it would allow programming, as I’ve seen that Bafang controllers combined with mid-drive motors can be programmed.

@stancecoke
From what I’ve heard, it’s not possible to connect CAN-based components to a motor that communicates via UART.

 

[stancecoke]

From what I’ve heard

That's nonsense
The motor itself has no UART or CAN communication. It has only the three phase wires and 5 wires for the hall sensors plus optional one wire for the speed or temperature signal.

For middrives with "motor" often the whole assembly of motor, controller and PAS/torquesensor is meant. But of course this are single elements of the whole system, that are separate parts. For a hubmotor normally they are physically separated in own housings.
For my linked hubmotor controller, you have to be careful, they are for bottom brackets with Bafang CAN torquesensors. The sensors can be installed on normal BSA frames. The torquesensor is the better option for an E-Bike anyway, as PAS assistance has nothing to do with bicycle riding, it's more a Moped-Feeling.

 

[E-HP]

I’ve been checking a few more details and realized that switching to a KT controller isn’t as straightforward as I first thought. It would also require replacing the 1T4 cable with a 1T5, as well as the hydraulic brake sensors and the throttle.

Consider selling the kit and buying one that already has a KT controller.