Finally got everything working after 6 times of having to remove and open the motor for problems. I think everything is just perfect now after constant modifications. Took lots of things going wrong to finally get there.
Here are the findings.
It does work. Having the fan on full power (Haven't tried it on lower yet) will allow me to drive as hard as I want without overheating above 90C in the summer heat. Without the fan I would easily go over 100C and need to slow down in no time, especially after the motor fully warms up. LIke I said in the past it wasn't worth driving after 10 miles (~900 Watt hours) as the motor would push above 100c in seconds and not be able to cool off even after sitting for 20-30 minutes.
Driving hard I will usually peak around 82-85C with fan on maximum, this is full throttle off/road riding with hills, I push 6000 watts and drive hard. Driving slower it will peak a lot lower.
Of course if I full throttle it up a very steep hill continuously it will probably overheat, I don't think anything can prevent that. Well, maybe with an extra EDF fan it possibly could.
The hotter the motor gets the quicker it cools. For example, it will quickly cool the motor from 100c to 65c, then the rate of cooling will slow up. What I think is happening is the windings get quickly cooled off and then it takes time to cool down the aluminum stator. Around 60C the air coming out of the motor isn't that hot. It is not like the air coming out at 90C which is burning hot. Remember, I already drove the motor without the fans for miles and fully heated the stator up. It will take time to cool the stator off. The air passes through the windings much more efficiently than the stator.
I can make this even better I think with some simple modifications. Especially to help cool the stator quicker.
I opened up the motor hot once after 30 minutes of cooling(no fan cooling) and noticed the aluminum stator in the center was still hot, you could feel the heat in the center of the motor. To shed this heat inside the aluminum stator quicker into the air I will need heat sinks internally mounted around the stator. I ordered and plan on installing heat sinks around the inside of the stator and this should cool off the stator maybe like 5x or more quicker, as I will be increasing the surface area by a lot!. Not only will this increase the surface area of the stator by multiples, I plan on directing some of the fan air flow through these areas.
Another area which may help is that the hot exhaust air exits near the intake and I can tell the exhaust air is getting pulled to the center and possibly some back into the motor. I am thinking about redirecting the exhaust air so that it shoots out the sides away from the intake holes on the center of the motor cover. Remember my intake and exhaust air are on the same side on the same motor cover. I'm not really sure how much of a difference this will make as I'm sure the air cools a bit before reentering the motor. But the air in front of the motor is hot when the fans are on so it has to be pulling in this hot air.
All in all it works and I met my goals of being able to drive as hard as I want in the summer heat without overheating. Actually it is kind of weird to be able to do this as I am so used to being on the edge of overheating and always needed to make constant stops and had to slow up my pace to let the motor cool down. Really it was useless as even letting the motor sit for even 30 minutes only allowed me a mile or two of riding before I was overheating again.
The EDF does make noise, kind of sounds like a loud computer or server with the fan noise. However, you can 't hear it driving faster than say 15-20MPH.
Electronics are mounted temporary


Holes are drilled small to stop stuff getting inside the motor. Outside holes along the edge are exhaust, all others are intake. I don't see a reason to add bigger holes as the fan does the work of cooling.

Here are the findings.
It does work. Having the fan on full power (Haven't tried it on lower yet) will allow me to drive as hard as I want without overheating above 90C in the summer heat. Without the fan I would easily go over 100C and need to slow down in no time, especially after the motor fully warms up. LIke I said in the past it wasn't worth driving after 10 miles (~900 Watt hours) as the motor would push above 100c in seconds and not be able to cool off even after sitting for 20-30 minutes.
Driving hard I will usually peak around 82-85C with fan on maximum, this is full throttle off/road riding with hills, I push 6000 watts and drive hard. Driving slower it will peak a lot lower.
Of course if I full throttle it up a very steep hill continuously it will probably overheat, I don't think anything can prevent that. Well, maybe with an extra EDF fan it possibly could.
The hotter the motor gets the quicker it cools. For example, it will quickly cool the motor from 100c to 65c, then the rate of cooling will slow up. What I think is happening is the windings get quickly cooled off and then it takes time to cool down the aluminum stator. Around 60C the air coming out of the motor isn't that hot. It is not like the air coming out at 90C which is burning hot. Remember, I already drove the motor without the fans for miles and fully heated the stator up. It will take time to cool the stator off. The air passes through the windings much more efficiently than the stator.
I can make this even better I think with some simple modifications. Especially to help cool the stator quicker.
I opened up the motor hot once after 30 minutes of cooling(no fan cooling) and noticed the aluminum stator in the center was still hot, you could feel the heat in the center of the motor. To shed this heat inside the aluminum stator quicker into the air I will need heat sinks internally mounted around the stator. I ordered and plan on installing heat sinks around the inside of the stator and this should cool off the stator maybe like 5x or more quicker, as I will be increasing the surface area by a lot!. Not only will this increase the surface area of the stator by multiples, I plan on directing some of the fan air flow through these areas.
Another area which may help is that the hot exhaust air exits near the intake and I can tell the exhaust air is getting pulled to the center and possibly some back into the motor. I am thinking about redirecting the exhaust air so that it shoots out the sides away from the intake holes on the center of the motor cover. Remember my intake and exhaust air are on the same side on the same motor cover. I'm not really sure how much of a difference this will make as I'm sure the air cools a bit before reentering the motor. But the air in front of the motor is hot when the fans are on so it has to be pulling in this hot air.
All in all it works and I met my goals of being able to drive as hard as I want in the summer heat without overheating. Actually it is kind of weird to be able to do this as I am so used to being on the edge of overheating and always needed to make constant stops and had to slow up my pace to let the motor cool down. Really it was useless as even letting the motor sit for even 30 minutes only allowed me a mile or two of riding before I was overheating again.
The EDF does make noise, kind of sounds like a loud computer or server with the fan noise. However, you can 't hear it driving faster than say 15-20MPH.
Electronics are mounted temporary


Holes are drilled small to stop stuff getting inside the motor. Outside holes along the edge are exhaust, all others are intake. I don't see a reason to add bigger holes as the fan does the work of cooling.
