icerider
100 W
While we are at it, if you could tolerate 530x530mm you could get 50W mono crystalline semi flexible Renogy panel (~1kg)
Cowardlyducks - E-BikeE builds
- Thread starter Cowardlyduck
- Start date
While we are at it, if you could tolerate 530x530mm you could get 50W mono crystalline semi flexible Renogy panel (~1kg)
Thanks for the comments Icerider.
Reading through your thread was partially what inspired me to try something similar with Solar.
I'm still keen to do a solar setup. At this stage I'm looking at one of these 12W panels.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12W-Sola...attery-Charger-for-RV-Car-Boat-/261613896848?
It's about as big as I really want to go for the front. I'll see how it goes once I get it, but I may parallel another and hang it from the back of the top of the seat down to the tail of the bike.
Another idea I had was to hang some panels off the main frame in front of the seat. They would not be in the way, and wouldn't cause any issues with drag...but would add more weight. Perhaps some smaller panels to go on the sides of the frame would work well. I could probably fit a couple of 3-5W panels on each side, but not sure it would be worth it for the small increase.
It seems all these panels come with regulators. I'm assuming there is not point leaving it attached as connecting the DC-DC converter directly to the Solar output terminals is best or do these DC converters not like the fluctuating voltage of solar?
Cheers
Reading through your thread was partially what inspired me to try something similar with Solar.
I'm still keen to do a solar setup. At this stage I'm looking at one of these 12W panels.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12W-Sola...attery-Charger-for-RV-Car-Boat-/261613896848?
It's about as big as I really want to go for the front. I'll see how it goes once I get it, but I may parallel another and hang it from the back of the top of the seat down to the tail of the bike.
Another idea I had was to hang some panels off the main frame in front of the seat. They would not be in the way, and wouldn't cause any issues with drag...but would add more weight. Perhaps some smaller panels to go on the sides of the frame would work well. I could probably fit a couple of 3-5W panels on each side, but not sure it would be worth it for the small increase.
It seems all these panels come with regulators. I'm assuming there is not point leaving it attached as connecting the DC-DC converter directly to the Solar output terminals is best or do these DC converters not like the fluctuating voltage of solar?
Cheers
icerider
100 W
Cowardlyduck said:
Thank you. I had a ball doing that project and will be getting back to it soon. I now have two solar capable bikes (Bionx with tapped batteries) and am looking at ways to be able to switch the two solar panels between bikes. Looking hard at a solar trailer for touring with a 2-wheel and a new solar parasol for the Power Cruiser. More coming soon as I get time to work on it.
I do not think you will want the "regulator" left in the circuit. It would just be one more loss factor between the panel and battery. My DC-to-DC converter never seemed to care much one way or the other. I had a high quality Schottky diode between the converter and battery but otherwise just hooked them all up and adjusted max voltage to match the battery. Sunshine, shade, night, garage, I just left it hooked up all the time and it charged the battery when it could and stopped when the battery was full. I went several weeks without ever hooking up the charger, riding every morning and charging til midday. The only real "intervention" was to check the balance of the LIPOs every week or so. They stayed very well balanced for over a month at a time riding and charging daily. I was pretty shocked at how well the whole thing worked out first time out of the box.
I've been continuing to research the best solar panel options as nothing I had previously come across seemed ideal.
It seemed to me the only options were always going to be a compromise on either size, weight, or power output.
So finally, after casually looking almost every day for the last week, I think I may have found the ideal panel for my setup.
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/pro...ystalline-20-efficiency/331835_916881582.html
Apparently it is 20.5% efficient!
This panel measures 434*277*3mm, which is a perfect fit for the front of my bike. It only weighs 290g and because it's flexible, I can give it a bend to help it deflect air better.
I'm glad I didn't let my urge to buy and start making this solar setup get the better of me or I would have bought those other less than ideal panels the other week.
Does anyone have any better alternatives they know of in this size range, or reasons why the above panel might not be a good idea?
I'm also completely clueless as to which/what diode to get. What have others used?
Cheers
It seemed to me the only options were always going to be a compromise on either size, weight, or power output.
So finally, after casually looking almost every day for the last week, I think I may have found the ideal panel for my setup.
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/pro...ystalline-20-efficiency/331835_916881582.html
Apparently it is 20.5% efficient!
This panel measures 434*277*3mm, which is a perfect fit for the front of my bike. It only weighs 290g and because it's flexible, I can give it a bend to help it deflect air better.
I'm glad I didn't let my urge to buy and start making this solar setup get the better of me or I would have bought those other less than ideal panels the other week.
Does anyone have any better alternatives they know of in this size range, or reasons why the above panel might not be a good idea?
I'm also completely clueless as to which/what diode to get. What have others used?
Cheers
icerider
100 W
I really like that panel. Nice form factor too. The cells look the same as the ones in my panels and 20% is pretty good efficiency.
Don't plan on bending that panel very much, they are pretty darn stiff.
You may want two diodes. One between panel and DC-to-DC module and one between the DC-to-DC module and the battery. In a pinch, you can probably ditch the one between panel and DC-to-DC module. You REALLY need the diode between the DC-to-DC module and the battery. You do NOT want the battery back-driving the DC-to-DC module and as I recall, the ~120 watt modules do not have reverse polarity protection or back-flow prevention.
Hook them all up and set the voltage limit on the DC-to-DC module in full sun with the battery not connected. That will ensure that you will not overcharge a full battery.
A diode in this class will do nicely.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056RHMCG
They run a little hot so plan on putting it in the shade and if possible in the airflow. That heat is lost power, but it isn't a lot.
If you want to go WHOLE PIG on the diode and lose less power, something in this family will suffice:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087YQKQ4.
You can get one for lower volts and amps and still be fine, but be sure to stay in this Vishay family. These have a VERY low forward resistance even at high amps. They run much cooler than the standard solar panel diodes.
Don't plan on bending that panel very much, they are pretty darn stiff.
You may want two diodes. One between panel and DC-to-DC module and one between the DC-to-DC module and the battery. In a pinch, you can probably ditch the one between panel and DC-to-DC module. You REALLY need the diode between the DC-to-DC module and the battery. You do NOT want the battery back-driving the DC-to-DC module and as I recall, the ~120 watt modules do not have reverse polarity protection or back-flow prevention.
Hook them all up and set the voltage limit on the DC-to-DC module in full sun with the battery not connected. That will ensure that you will not overcharge a full battery.
A diode in this class will do nicely.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056RHMCG
They run a little hot so plan on putting it in the shade and if possible in the airflow. That heat is lost power, but it isn't a lot.
If you want to go WHOLE PIG on the diode and lose less power, something in this family will suffice:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087YQKQ4.
You can get one for lower volts and amps and still be fine, but be sure to stay in this Vishay family. These have a VERY low forward resistance even at high amps. They run much cooler than the standard solar panel diodes.
Thanks icerider. Very useful info, and I'm glad you like the panel as I haven't found anything better as yet.
As for the diode, would this one work well?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GA58663-VS-MBR360-Vishay-Diode-Schottky-3A-60V-/141246169128?
It's only 3A, but between the panel and DC-DC I will only push a max of 1.5A and from the DC-DC my battery a max of 0.5A.
I won't be able to move it into shade if it gets hot as I plan on leaving it unattended outside during the day, while I work. How hot are we talking? Could I heat sink it to my aluminum frame?
Stupid question, but how do you know which end is which for current flow?
Cheers
As for the diode, would this one work well?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GA58663-VS-MBR360-Vishay-Diode-Schottky-3A-60V-/141246169128?
It's only 3A, but between the panel and DC-DC I will only push a max of 1.5A and from the DC-DC my battery a max of 0.5A.
I won't be able to move it into shade if it gets hot as I plan on leaving it unattended outside during the day, while I work. How hot are we talking? Could I heat sink it to my aluminum frame?
Stupid question, but how do you know which end is which for current flow?
Cheers
icerider
100 W
That one looks like a good choice.
Here is your data sheet:
http://www.onsemi.com/pub_link/Collateral/MBR350-D.PDF
Installed between the DC-to-DC converter and the battery it will see no more than 0.5A -- from the data sheet the voltage drop will be ~.37V which will give you a dissipated power of < 0.2W. It should be fine almost anywhere you put it. If it is easy to heat sink it to the frame that would be WAY more than enough to keep it nice and cool.
With regard to which way diodes go, the symbol makes all clear:
Current flows from the unmarked end toward the end with the band. So install it in the positive leg (between DC-to-DC and battery) with the banded end toward the battery or in the negative leg with the banded end toward the DC-to-DC converter.
In a world FULL of counterfeit semiconductors, be sure to test it with a multimeter to be sure it IS a diode -- low resistance in one direction and high resistance in the other. Or even with the small battery and the bulb from a penlight. Current should flow in the forward direction and NOT in the reverse direction.
As long as it is a diode (current flows only one way) and it doesn't get very warm, then it is fine for your application.
When you hook it all up (panel, converter, and battery) and take it out into the sun you will find that the DC-to-DC converter loads the panel heavily and will probably pull it well below your V(max power) as the converter tries to get to the set-point voltage. As the battery fills, the load will drop and the panel will run more efficiently. An MPPT controller of some sort would make this better, but I don't know of any that are reasonably priced.
Here is your data sheet:
http://www.onsemi.com/pub_link/Collateral/MBR350-D.PDF
Installed between the DC-to-DC converter and the battery it will see no more than 0.5A -- from the data sheet the voltage drop will be ~.37V which will give you a dissipated power of < 0.2W. It should be fine almost anywhere you put it. If it is easy to heat sink it to the frame that would be WAY more than enough to keep it nice and cool.
With regard to which way diodes go, the symbol makes all clear:
Current flows from the unmarked end toward the end with the band. So install it in the positive leg (between DC-to-DC and battery) with the banded end toward the battery or in the negative leg with the banded end toward the DC-to-DC converter.
In a world FULL of counterfeit semiconductors, be sure to test it with a multimeter to be sure it IS a diode -- low resistance in one direction and high resistance in the other. Or even with the small battery and the bulb from a penlight. Current should flow in the forward direction and NOT in the reverse direction.
As long as it is a diode (current flows only one way) and it doesn't get very warm, then it is fine for your application.
When you hook it all up (panel, converter, and battery) and take it out into the sun you will find that the DC-to-DC converter loads the panel heavily and will probably pull it well below your V(max power) as the converter tries to get to the set-point voltage. As the battery fills, the load will drop and the panel will run more efficiently. An MPPT controller of some sort would make this better, but I don't know of any that are reasonably priced.
Thanks icerider.
I may install a second panel later, which I would parallel to the first. The amps would still be within spec, so the same diode and DC-DC should be fine, but would I want to install another diode between the panels?
I'm probably going to order soon, but will wait till the Chinese new year holiday is over first.
Cheers
I may install a second panel later, which I would parallel to the first. The amps would still be within spec, so the same diode and DC-DC should be fine, but would I want to install another diode between the panels?
I'm probably going to order soon, but will wait till the Chinese new year holiday is over first.
Cheers
icerider
100 W
Cowardlyduck said:
Good point ... I wouldn't have thought of that.
Putting a diode on each of the two panels is probably a good idea. The diodes keep a shaded panel from loading down a panel in good sunlight. If the two panels are in the same plane and equally illuminated, then the diodes are just a small loss. But if one of the panels is in shade, the diodes will really earn their keep. With my two panel arrangement I didn't bother with diodes but that was for two panels side by side and in Arizona where sun is plentiful and trees are less common than they are some places.
I haven't got around to updating everyone yet on some recent 'minor' changes made to this ride.
The old heavy LiFePo4 Stealth Fighter battery was way overkill, so I've taken it off.
Instead I'm now running 12S4P LiPo 3700Mah Zippy Compacts. Realistic usage only gives about 12Ah total, but I rarely go over 10Ah on my commute anyway. These packs were also previously on my Fighter, but this is only half of that pack. On the fighter it was a 12S8P setup.
Like the last setup, they are well padded, and secured to the frame. Just not very aesthetically pleasing.
I received and mounted my replacement 6Fet Controller. This time I slid the controller further forward, and jammed it in with more heat transfer padding on the top.
I've also decided to delay, or maybe ditch, the idea of a Schlumpf ATS speed drive. It would have been nice, but the cost, and hassle of mounting it was going to be a big PITA.
Instead, I've managed to source a BCD110 60T chain ring.
It's quite large, but with a new longer chain just mounted, it works well and top comfortable pedalling speed for me is now 40kph. The only issue is there are no chain-ring guards made bid enough to fit, so I occasionally get my pants caught.
I've also changed the front tire. The hookworm was great...in the dry and on clean tarmac, but that's where it ends. I had a minor fall the other day after my front tire slid out on a corner that had a small amount of dirt and pine needles on it. I also had a very close call in the wet when my front refused to turn to catch a lean on a muddy patch of bike path.
So I've now mounted a Big Apple. The tread pattern seems to be better, it is a tiny bit larger, and the lowest rated PSI is 30 which I like to run.
Next on my to do list, aside from the solar set-up, is a rear mud guard and a new front wheel/hub. The need for a mud guard should be obvious from the pic above, but the front wheel not so much. When I was changing the front tire, I was testing free-spinning the wheel and found the hub/bearings are shot. The resistance is significant and the thing grinds awfully. I will probably build my own wheel, so I can select the best/lightest components myself.
Cheers
The old heavy LiFePo4 Stealth Fighter battery was way overkill, so I've taken it off.
Instead I'm now running 12S4P LiPo 3700Mah Zippy Compacts. Realistic usage only gives about 12Ah total, but I rarely go over 10Ah on my commute anyway. These packs were also previously on my Fighter, but this is only half of that pack. On the fighter it was a 12S8P setup.
Like the last setup, they are well padded, and secured to the frame. Just not very aesthetically pleasing.
I received and mounted my replacement 6Fet Controller. This time I slid the controller further forward, and jammed it in with more heat transfer padding on the top.
I've also decided to delay, or maybe ditch, the idea of a Schlumpf ATS speed drive. It would have been nice, but the cost, and hassle of mounting it was going to be a big PITA.
Instead, I've managed to source a BCD110 60T chain ring.
It's quite large, but with a new longer chain just mounted, it works well and top comfortable pedalling speed for me is now 40kph. The only issue is there are no chain-ring guards made bid enough to fit, so I occasionally get my pants caught.
I've also changed the front tire. The hookworm was great...in the dry and on clean tarmac, but that's where it ends. I had a minor fall the other day after my front tire slid out on a corner that had a small amount of dirt and pine needles on it. I also had a very close call in the wet when my front refused to turn to catch a lean on a muddy patch of bike path.
So I've now mounted a Big Apple. The tread pattern seems to be better, it is a tiny bit larger, and the lowest rated PSI is 30 which I like to run.
Next on my to do list, aside from the solar set-up, is a rear mud guard and a new front wheel/hub. The need for a mud guard should be obvious from the pic above, but the front wheel not so much. When I was changing the front tire, I was testing free-spinning the wheel and found the hub/bearings are shot. The resistance is significant and the thing grinds awfully. I will probably build my own wheel, so I can select the best/lightest components myself.
Cheers
Alan B
100 GW
They do make rings the right size to fit your pants, to keep them out of the chain.
Good point. I might try one of them if it becomes a problem.Alan B said:They do make rings the right size to fit your pants, to keep them out of the chain.
Any suggestions on a rear mud guard? There doesn't appear to be many 20" guards out there.
Cheers
Alan B
100 GW
I don't ride my BikeE in the mud.
But a guard would still be a good idea.
But a guard would still be a good idea.
Either do I, but there's often mud/puddles and other crap on the completely un-maintained bike paths around here.Alan B said:
One good sized rear mud guard found and on it's way.
http://a1adventuresports.com.au/#/s...el-recumbent-with-caliper-brake-ac-20/7414864
I was about to buy the parts to build up a new 16" wheel, when I found this:
http://a1adventuresports.com.au/#/shop/4572939724/20”-shock-disc-fork-for-goal-x-fk-06/7414958
If it fit, this fork would be great for obvious reasons.
With this fork I would need a 20" wheel (or would I?) and would switch to a disc brake. I would probably use a smaller tire to keep a little of the original geometry to the bike.
The problem with that is I won't be able to afford this fork (at $139) + a new wheel without putting a serious dent (delay) in my other solar, and battery plans...so is it worth it???
Would a 20" wheel + suspension fork really provide much more comfort without the rear also being suspended?
I'm now running a 16x2" tire up front that I can run down at 30PSI, so would I really see much difference? Or could I do both...i.e. build a new 16" wheel now, and run it on the 20" fork when I get around to buying it later...would that be worth it?
Any input from others appreciated.
Cheers
Alan B
100 GW
Because of the seat location compared to the distance to each wheel, I expect that the front doesn't contribute nearly as much as the rear does to seat impulse energy from surface imperfections. There is no weight on the handlebars to transfer shock from the front end as is the case on more upright bikes. I think the front suspension doesn't help much in this setup.
Thanks for the input. I suspected as much, but got a little exited to find a suitable front suspension fork for this bike.Alan B said:
What I really need is the AT model, but I'll live with what I've got for now.
A new 16" wheel it is then.
Cheers
Still waiting on parts for the new front wheel...but in the mean time, I had the chance to go for a non-commuting ride today for the first time in a long time.
So I went and checked out a local dam.
Googong Dam.
One of the reasons I made this trip was I recently discovered this Ebike Maps site:
http://www.ebikemaps.com/map
After plugging in all my details, it told me I could make it there and back...so I went for it.
In the end it was a pretty close call. I used 12.3AH (of my ~12AH pack) with nearly 10% Regen cause it was so hilly. I was cruising down some really long hills at 45-50kph doing 500-800W Regen for minutes at a time.
I really need to build that new wheel though. I can feel the current one wobbling the front end at speed!
Cheers
So I went and checked out a local dam.
Googong Dam.
One of the reasons I made this trip was I recently discovered this Ebike Maps site:
http://www.ebikemaps.com/map
After plugging in all my details, it told me I could make it there and back...so I went for it.
In the end it was a pretty close call. I used 12.3AH (of my ~12AH pack) with nearly 10% Regen cause it was so hilly. I was cruising down some really long hills at 45-50kph doing 500-800W Regen for minutes at a time.
I really need to build that new wheel though. I can feel the current one wobbling the front end at speed!
Cheers
Well, I finally finished my front wheel over the weekend, which means I finally just put my order in for the solar panel parts.
The front wheel was an ordeal to say the least. The spoke length ordered originally was wrong, then sent them back to get re-cut, then they got sent to the wrong address, then they were still too long (again). In the end I risked it and cut them down myself (without extending the threads) so I could build the wheel without the spokes poking through the nipples. Ended up being able to true it with the remaining thread...just. 
The diode I posted previously was no longer available so I ended up getting this one:
GA58635 SB3H100-E3/54 Vishay General Semiconductor Diode, Schottky, 3A, 100V
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/141246169158
I'm hoping it's just as good (or better), but after looking around for ages I'm really not sure...there seems to be a multitude of diodes available that would do the job...can anyone confirm the one above is ok?
In other news I also mounted a new light. It's just a crappy '800' Lumen Ebay E-Bike light, but I discovered I can actually run it directly off the ignition wires from the controller. This was a welcome surprise as I really didn't feel like running new wires for it, and makes sense since it only draws about 7.5W.
I think I'll have to run new wires for the solar panel though as it can put out 18W which would probably be a little too much for the 30awg DVI cable wires I'm using for my throttle, 3 speed switch, cruise, ignition, and Regen button.
Cheers
The front wheel was an ordeal to say the least. The spoke length ordered originally was wrong, then sent them back to get re-cut, then they got sent to the wrong address, then they were still too long (again). In the end I risked it and cut them down myself (without extending the threads) so I could build the wheel without the spokes poking through the nipples. Ended up being able to true it with the remaining thread...just.
The diode I posted previously was no longer available so I ended up getting this one:
GA58635 SB3H100-E3/54 Vishay General Semiconductor Diode, Schottky, 3A, 100V
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/141246169158
I'm hoping it's just as good (or better), but after looking around for ages I'm really not sure...there seems to be a multitude of diodes available that would do the job...can anyone confirm the one above is ok?
In other news I also mounted a new light. It's just a crappy '800' Lumen Ebay E-Bike light, but I discovered I can actually run it directly off the ignition wires from the controller. This was a welcome surprise as I really didn't feel like running new wires for it, and makes sense since it only draws about 7.5W.
I think I'll have to run new wires for the solar panel though as it can put out 18W which would probably be a little too much for the 30awg DVI cable wires I'm using for my throttle, 3 speed switch, cruise, ignition, and Regen button.
Cheers
icerider
100 W
The diode I posted previously was no longer available so I ended up getting this one:
GA58635 SB3H100-E3/54 Vishay General Semiconductor Diode, Schottky, 3A, 100V
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/141246169158
I'm hoping it's just as good (or better), but after looking around for ages I'm really not sure...there seems to be a multitude of diodes available that would do the job...can anyone confirm the one above is ok?
It will get warmer than the VS-MBR360 but should still be fine with your 0.5W current. It is going to dissipate around 0.4W in the worst case. The junction is going to run about 25C above "ambient" . Just remember that "ambient" is the case temperature so don't bury it in a lot of electrical tape. If it is convenient, put heat shrink over the leads right up to the body and leave the body uncovered and "out in the breeze". Or heat shrink the leads and tape the body to a metal surface like a rack or the frame.
Thanks for the feedback. Glad these will work then.icerider said:
The hottest air temp where I live would be 40C ambient + sunlight heat, which I'm guessing could be +20C worst case. So max temp of 85C at the diode in operation. They are rated for up to +175°C so I think it should be fine. I will just have to ensure it's not buried as suggested.
I would like to be able to see how much power is being generated by the setup if possible. I looked around for a cheap watt meter, but nothing seemed cheap/basic enough to leave permanently mounted.
Does anyone know of a really cheap watt meter I could use to see my solar output?
Cheers
Did a bit more research after posting this and have come to the conclusion that nothing will fit my needs exactly. :|Cowardlyduck said:
I will have to settle for one of the larger sized watt meters. I had hoped to get a smaller one, but can't seem to find any.
At this stage the choice is between one of these:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Battery-...-Analyzer-Watt-Meter-New-BY-AU-/121052791818?
These are cheap ($12), but slightly large, and I'm not sure on the accuracy or quality.
Or:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/High-pre...-Analyzer-Backlight-LCD-0-150A-/251585016081?
This one is $15. Looks to be a bit more rugged, uses slightly less power and potentially smaller, which I want, but again, not sure on the quality at this price level.
Are there any other watt meters I should consider? I'm leaning towards the second one above at this stage.
Cheers
Ottodog
100 W
I love it! That's what my son calls an "engineer mobile". We see quite a few of those around here (sans motor). 8)
Bikes still going strong...been riding to/from work almost every day lately...even in the rain a few times.
I had to replace a broken hall sensor about a month ago, and have had axle rotation issues ever since. I can hear and feel an audible click when going from acceleration to regen and this is with 2 torque arms on!
Over the weekend, I remounted the axle and added a C washer to the non-freewheel side on the inside of the dropout in the hopes it would give a larger surface area to the axle shoulder. It was a squeeze to get the axle in and I had to minutely spread the dropouts to get it to fit...hoping that doesn't damage anything!
I also repositioned my torque arms so the bolt goes through the hole closer to the axle. This was so that the bolt could be screwed in deeper since I need to use the other hole for my rear fender mounts also. When I did final assembly, I rotated the axle as far to the rear as possible...so if looking from the freewheel side, rotated clockwise. The theory was so that it was rotated as far as necessary for full Regen force since it is either on or off...where as acceleration tends to ramp up and should not jolt the axle as much.
In testing off the ground (acc > regen > acc > regen) it held up nicely...no more click, and felt really solid.
This morning when riding to work...it also felt much better...for the first 100m. Then the dreaded click/clunk came back. :x
So my question is...should I rotate the axle clockwise or anticlockwise (when facing from the freewheel side)?
Or is there a better way to position my torque arms? I get that using the bolts further away would probably be better for leverage, however it's a trade off with how far the bolts can be screwed in if I do.
I also have several washers of different types that I'm using that may not be necessary, and could be hurting the setup overall. Do others use washers?
I'll try and depict my total setup below:
Nylock Nut-|-Torque Arm-|-Nylon washer-|-Metal washer (with flats)-|-Dropout-|-C Spacer Washer-|-Freewheel-|-Motor-|-C Spacer Washer-|-Dropout-|-Torque Arm-|-Metal washer (with flats)-|-Metal washer (with lip)-|-Nylock Nut
I'm worried my dropouts will spread soon if I don't sort this out, but my back brakes are extremely weak and my front one's aren't much use for a lot of braking, so I need to use Regen as my primary brake.
Any suggestions welcome.
Cheers
I had to replace a broken hall sensor about a month ago, and have had axle rotation issues ever since. I can hear and feel an audible click when going from acceleration to regen and this is with 2 torque arms on!
Over the weekend, I remounted the axle and added a C washer to the non-freewheel side on the inside of the dropout in the hopes it would give a larger surface area to the axle shoulder. It was a squeeze to get the axle in and I had to minutely spread the dropouts to get it to fit...hoping that doesn't damage anything!
I also repositioned my torque arms so the bolt goes through the hole closer to the axle. This was so that the bolt could be screwed in deeper since I need to use the other hole for my rear fender mounts also. When I did final assembly, I rotated the axle as far to the rear as possible...so if looking from the freewheel side, rotated clockwise. The theory was so that it was rotated as far as necessary for full Regen force since it is either on or off...where as acceleration tends to ramp up and should not jolt the axle as much.
In testing off the ground (acc > regen > acc > regen) it held up nicely...no more click, and felt really solid.
This morning when riding to work...it also felt much better...for the first 100m. Then the dreaded click/clunk came back. :x
So my question is...should I rotate the axle clockwise or anticlockwise (when facing from the freewheel side)?
Or is there a better way to position my torque arms? I get that using the bolts further away would probably be better for leverage, however it's a trade off with how far the bolts can be screwed in if I do.
I also have several washers of different types that I'm using that may not be necessary, and could be hurting the setup overall. Do others use washers?
I'll try and depict my total setup below:
Nylock Nut-|-Torque Arm-|-Nylon washer-|-Metal washer (with flats)-|-Dropout-|-C Spacer Washer-|-Freewheel-|-Motor-|-C Spacer Washer-|-Dropout-|-Torque Arm-|-Metal washer (with flats)-|-Metal washer (with lip)-|-Nylock Nut
I'm worried my dropouts will spread soon if I don't sort this out, but my back brakes are extremely weak and my front one's aren't much use for a lot of braking, so I need to use Regen as my primary brake.
Any suggestions welcome.
Cheers
StudEbiker
100 kW
I don't know if the bearings in the front hub are sealed cartridge or cup & cone, but either way it should be able to be rebuilt pretty easily. MUCH easier than building a new wheel for sure! Cheaper too!
It's a little late now I guess, but if you are building a new front wheel anyway, you should have considered using a drum brake. I love mine. All weather, low maintenance, great stopping power.
It's a little late now I guess, but if you are building a new front wheel anyway, you should have considered using a drum brake. I love mine. All weather, low maintenance, great stopping power.
Yeah, the drum brake would have been nice, however it is unnecessary for my set-up. Currently with all the weight on the rear, I can lock up the front with the rim brakes anyway, so a drum would only improve things in the wet really.StudEbiker said:
I adjusted my rear brake cable tension to the max without rubbing and they do a bit better now, but still pretty pathetic. Does anyone know what a good brand of rim brake pads are...I've actually never bought any before!
Cheers
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