Cycle Analyst V3 preview and first beta release

[Cowardlyduck]

AW, that is something I've occasionally thought about solving as well. Also because it's just nice to ride without a screen in the face sometimes.

If I find the time, I might design a 3D printed flip down cover. Printed in black, it should block 90%+ of the light. That would be the easiest way IMO.

Cheers

 

[amberwolf]

Hmf. I never even thought of printing a cover***.... I would rather do that than modify the electronics. If you ever make a design, lemme know and I'll try printing it out.

If it's made as a cover kinda like a phone case where it has sides to go down over the CA's sides, it'll block light pretty completely, if the hinge itself is below the rounded edge of the forward CA side.

If someone needs to use it on a system that uses presets changed by the front panel buttons, then if it's made thin enough around the button area with thicker bumps where the buttons are it shouldn't need any holes, if it's printed with soft enough TPU. I have a roll in black shore95A and another in gray (95A), which are hard but flexible enough for this if printed thinly.

If I ever run into the time to design one, i'll post it up here. (but don't hold your breath :lol: )


***which is pretty wierd since I once wanted to print a new back cover that would have connectors "molded" into it similar to the ebikesolutions cover; that was long ago before I actually had a printer.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

I screwed up the wiring on a PAS sensor and plugged it in...let out the magic smoke

Any chance this can be repaired?



Or does anyone want it in Australia?

Cheers

 

[amberwolf]

There are a couple of alternatives.

One is to power it via a lower voltage, bypassing the regulator FET, as long as the secondary regulator past Q1 still works. If you have a "lighting pack" for 12v lights and such you can run it from that, by connecting the 12v to the Q1's output pin, and change the shutdown voltage in the CA menus to below that. If you don't have a lighting pack you can use a tiny DC-DC to get 12v from your battery.

Then if the Vf input is fried and it doesn't read your battery anymore, connect battery voltage (<100v? check your manual!) to the Vex pin on the Divider input so it still gets a voltage reading on the traction pack.

I did this over a decade ago after blowing up Q1 on my first CA because it didn't have any warning (other than on the website or in this thread if you knew about it and dug around) that using the THUN BB torque sensor with it (that IIRC came with mine) on anything above a 48v pack would put too high a load on Q1 and overheat it. IIRC they have changed the modern CAs to deal with this issue, but I don't know that for certain.

Or you can replace Q1 itself, and the resistor. This thread has some info on parts you may be able to use, if yours is the same version:

Cycle Analyst Repair

I'm sure I have FETs that will work; I can probably use an IRFB4110 from a dead controller (or a new one if I have to--I have a few) just to test if it is all that is wrong, but I'm pretty sure it's not. Oh, and when i wire it in or solder in a drop-in-replacement, I'll have to run the gate...

endless-sphere.com

 

[Cowardlyduck]

There are a couple of alternatives.

One is to power it via a lower voltage, bypassing the regulator FET, as long as the secondary regulator past Q1 still works. If you have a "lighting pack" for 12v lights and such you can run it from that, by connecting the 12v to the Q1's output pin, and change the shutdown voltage in the CA menus to below that. If you don't have a lighting pack you can use a tiny DC-DC to get 12v from your battery.

Then if the Vf input is fried and it doesn't read your battery anymore, connect battery voltage (<100v? check your manual!) to the Vex pin on the Divider input so it still gets a voltage reading on the traction pack.

I did this over a decade ago after blowing up Q1 on my first CA because it didn't have any warning (other than on the website or in this thread if you knew about it and dug around) that using the THUN BB torque sensor with it (that IIRC came with mine) on anything above a 48v pack would put too high a load on Q1 and overheat it. IIRC they have changed the modern CAs to deal with this issue, but I don't know that for certain.

Or you can replace Q1 itself, and the resistor. This thread has some info on parts you may be able to use, if yours is the same version:

Cycle Analyst Repair

I'm sure I have FETs that will work; I can probably use an IRFB4110 from a dead controller (or a new one if I have to--I have a few) just to test if it is all that is wrong, but I'm pretty sure it's not. Oh, and when i wire it in or solder in a drop-in-replacement, I'll have to run the gate...

endless-sphere.com

Thanks AW! Will give it a try.

 

[amberwolf]

Thanks AW! Will give it a try.

Any luck?

 

[Gab]

Hi i have a weird.random throttle behaviour. I had a look inside.and didnt see or smell anything burnt.and no water. What.it does is.randomly sometimes it puts like 1/4.throttle on its own! But on the screen the input and output bars on the .in screen show nothing?? The other weird thing it does if i do.full trhottle off takeoff and the wheel off the ground it only ramps up very very slowly like 5 seconds to get to full throttle.which is not the cav3 setting then other times it ramps up.normal faster. Its like their is a bad connection of the output mosfet to have this random behaviour.sometimes its ok. I know its the cav3 becuase if i bypass the throttle direct to controller it works perfectly fine. The cav3 is on passthrough mode hence why i think their is some issue with the output mosfet or wiring any ideas on what to check ?

 

[amberwolf]

Broken ground on the would be the most common.

Anywhere between throttle and CA, or CA and ocntroller.

If you're using JSTs it's probably at the back end of a crimp on a contact, or a pin that has backed out of the housing as they were pushed together, and when you unplug them look like theyr'e all seated but if you push on the tips one moves back.

 

[Gab]

I have.plugged an unplugged everything and i have.not had the random 30pcnt throttle. The only weird behavior it now does...when i turn it on and change.mode to.full power it takes like 30.seconds to ramp to full throttle. I can see.on the display it shows full throttle but why does it ramp up.so slow? Is their.a.soft.start feature.after u change to high power mode? This doesnt sound like a ground problem ?

 

[amberwolf]

I have.plugged an unplugged everything and i have.not had the random 30pcnt throttle.

That means it *is* a connection or wiring fault...but it doesn't mean it's fixed. I would closely examine hte ground pins and wires of all connector related to throttle. If you don't make *sure* the problem is really fixed, you could have this while riding, and be surprised / unable to do anything about it for just long enough to get hurt or cause a serious problem for someone.

The only weird behavior it now does...when i turn it on and change.mode to.full power it takes like 30.seconds to ramp to full throttle. I can see.on the display it shows full throttle but why does it ramp up.so slow?

What ramping settings do you have in each throttle control source (CA, and controller)?

Is their.a.soft.start feature.after u change to high power mode?

Where are you changing this mode?

Are you testing without the CA in the loop? If not, you need to do this to isolate the problem. Youc an do it via hardware direct throttle connection to the controller, or by using the right mode in the CA to bypass the whole CA's control of throttle output.

If you have two separate things that modify how the system behaves (the CA, and the controller's own setup), it's going to take you forever to get it working if you have to guess which one is causing any specific behavior.

This doesnt sound like a ground problem ?

No, a ground problem is the kind of thing you saw before.