Deecanios first build the "DC1"
- Thread starter deecanio
- Start date
Hi All,
ok, the new puma controller is winging it's way to me as i type (cheers paul) and i need to get these batteries mounted pronto!!!!.
the seat is already in hand so once the controller arrives i will have my final measurements for it and get that made with the pre-arranged aluminum guy
this bike will be running 72v very soon and we think it is going to kick some ass!!!!
i have a final problem that i need some help with so ...........
i have this idea that i want you all to look at and tell me if you think it will work or not and reasons why.
lets have no talk of racks, baskets, or anything of that nature, i just dont like them and im set that this is where i will be mountng my cells
firstly its designed this way because the top mounted battery has little if any room for a fixing that doesn't leave it as close to the downtube as possible - so to that end i need to mount it securely using no more than 8mm between the tube itself and the casing of my battery.lets not worry about the swingarm hitting the battery, it doesnt by a long shot and even if i move the cell back down the tube to give me a little more room at the acute angle of the triangle it still wont hit.
here's where im at, they guys down the road say they can make it,i reckon a good machinist can make it for a third of what they want.
i want to use 5mm thick black perspex boxes (nods at y) to hold my cells on the downtube and i also plan to have a further 3mm plate inside the box which will hold my clamps.
the top battery clamps will be welded to the 3mm plate and then 3 identical rectangles will be cut from the perspex in respective locations so that when the plate with the three clamps slides into the box the three clamps fit through the holes leaving the plate flat against the perspex inside.
the bottom battery clamps don't matter as much as i have space to play with down there, however this will allow me to make them bigger so that the bolts can be accessed with a flat spanner from the side.
ok some pics to help show what i mean........
my main conern is the strength of 5mm perspex - the boxes could be metal but i'd rather perspex if i can get away with it?
let me know what you guys think and make adjustments and incorporate any good ideas/alternatives - i've been thinking anout this for a while now and this is the best i can do so i'm hoping you guys can just push it on a little for me so i can get this bike together and see what all the 72v fuss is about 8)
cheers all
D
ok, the new puma controller is winging it's way to me as i type (cheers paul) and i need to get these batteries mounted pronto!!!!.
the seat is already in hand so once the controller arrives i will have my final measurements for it and get that made with the pre-arranged aluminum guy
this bike will be running 72v very soon and we think it is going to kick some ass!!!!
i have a final problem that i need some help with so ...........
i have this idea that i want you all to look at and tell me if you think it will work or not and reasons why.
lets have no talk of racks, baskets, or anything of that nature, i just dont like them and im set that this is where i will be mountng my cells
firstly its designed this way because the top mounted battery has little if any room for a fixing that doesn't leave it as close to the downtube as possible - so to that end i need to mount it securely using no more than 8mm between the tube itself and the casing of my battery.lets not worry about the swingarm hitting the battery, it doesnt by a long shot and even if i move the cell back down the tube to give me a little more room at the acute angle of the triangle it still wont hit
.here's where im at, they guys down the road say they can make it,i reckon a good machinist can make it for a third of what they want.
i want to use 5mm thick black perspex boxes (nods at y) to hold my cells on the downtube and i also plan to have a further 3mm plate inside the box which will hold my clamps.
the top battery clamps will be welded to the 3mm plate and then 3 identical rectangles will be cut from the perspex in respective locations so that when the plate with the three clamps slides into the box the three clamps fit through the holes leaving the plate flat against the perspex inside.
the bottom battery clamps don't matter as much as i have space to play with down there, however this will allow me to make them bigger so that the bolts can be accessed with a flat spanner from the side.
ok some pics to help show what i mean........
my main conern is the strength of 5mm perspex - the boxes could be metal but i'd rather perspex if i can get away with it?
let me know what you guys think and make adjustments and incorporate any good ideas/alternatives - i've been thinking anout this for a while now and this is the best i can do so i'm hoping you guys can just push it on a little for me so i can get this bike together and see what all the 72v fuss is about 8)
cheers all
D
Attachments
Hi Mate
Its a good Idea however I think its maybe not quite as practical as you may first think, it looks like a job to get the thing fitted properly and doesnt need to be that well engineered to hold that batteries, I bet they would charge you a small fortune.
Without spending too much you could easily fabricate a mitre frame out of cheap angle aluminium, this would stop the batteries from moving laterally, I would then fit off the shelf tube clamps (check RS they do a huge range) and ratchet strap them top and bottom, this would also mean you could run the packs in the fresh air, they run a lot hotter at 72V.
Sump protection is also a concern, I know you dont like racks and bags and stuff but there isnt a great deal of room in that frame, its screaming for the space under your rear end to be filled ala y pedals design?
Or at least go 50/50 mount one more simply on the top of the down tube as you have shown and then fit one to a simple beam rack? to be honest I think they will look as good or bad whichever way you look at it, its far more natural for the pack to be on the back, the bike may attract a lot of looks where they are on the drawing.
Its tricky as your frame design was never designed with this in mind! still its up to you, custom made parts for the fixing of this are going to cost dollars, you dont need to spend that much, I think with a bit of thought and checking whats already available you can get this done with off the shelf bits for 50 quid or so.
I will in time be running 72V on the trek and will be wanting to mount 1 of the lipos in the frame, I am just going to make a frame from angle, I do have a friend that can weld aluminium (this does help) and then just fit normal pipe clamps to it and around the tube of the frame, you can utilise the frame bolts to help hold it, although I do not recommend them holding 10lbs on their own!
I will do a sketch of what I was thinking, might be able to save you some money here, buzz me off list and let me know what they were going to charge you, I can get this done a lot cheaper believe!
Cheers
P
Its a good Idea however I think its maybe not quite as practical as you may first think, it looks like a job to get the thing fitted properly and doesnt need to be that well engineered to hold that batteries, I bet they would charge you a small fortune.
Without spending too much you could easily fabricate a mitre frame out of cheap angle aluminium, this would stop the batteries from moving laterally, I would then fit off the shelf tube clamps (check RS they do a huge range) and ratchet strap them top and bottom, this would also mean you could run the packs in the fresh air, they run a lot hotter at 72V.
Sump protection is also a concern, I know you dont like racks and bags and stuff but there isnt a great deal of room in that frame, its screaming for the space under your rear end to be filled ala y pedals design?
Or at least go 50/50 mount one more simply on the top of the down tube as you have shown and then fit one to a simple beam rack? to be honest I think they will look as good or bad whichever way you look at it, its far more natural for the pack to be on the back, the bike may attract a lot of looks where they are on the drawing.
Its tricky as your frame design was never designed with this in mind! still its up to you, custom made parts for the fixing of this are going to cost dollars, you dont need to spend that much, I think with a bit of thought and checking whats already available you can get this done with off the shelf bits for 50 quid or so.
I will in time be running 72V on the trek and will be wanting to mount 1 of the lipos in the frame, I am just going to make a frame from angle, I do have a friend that can weld aluminium (this does help) and then just fit normal pipe clamps to it and around the tube of the frame, you can utilise the frame bolts to help hold it, although I do not recommend them holding 10lbs on their own!
I will do a sketch of what I was thinking, might be able to save you some money here, buzz me off list and let me know what they were going to charge you, I can get this done a lot cheaper believe!
Cheers
P
Quick sketch of what I mean, its only rough
Its kind of like a battery frame really, there is no need for a base, check RS for the pipe clamps, if you wanted one on the underside of this you could offset it by fitting a strip in the middle and fitting the clamp there.
This is how I am going to fit my Lipo to the Trek, the other one will be on the rear rack, nice and simple, I can mitre the ally and my buddy will weld it, its more than strong enough for 10lbs of lipo.
Knoxie
Its kind of like a battery frame really, there is no need for a base, check RS for the pipe clamps, if you wanted one on the underside of this you could offset it by fitting a strip in the middle and fitting the clamp there.
This is how I am going to fit my Lipo to the Trek, the other one will be on the rear rack, nice and simple, I can mitre the ally and my buddy will weld it, its more than strong enough for 10lbs of lipo.
Knoxie
Attachments
hi mate,
yes that does look a lot simpler and the lateral movement is well taken care of - i don't really like the idea of one batt at the back on the rack, definately want them both where they are in the drawing.
the guys that would do the job of making the seat and the brackets for the battery wanted 500 quid!!!!
thats a shit load of money but i would be prepared to pay it if the finish was top drawer.
controller is here!!! a little wider than the xlyte but not enough to make me change my mind on location, should fit snugly under the seat although it will make it 15mm wider - i'll have to check with another cardboard seat that it's not too wide to pedal though, should be ok.
man, aren't those phase wires short?
the xlyte give you 50 meters of battery and motor cable and the puma gives you 5 inches :lol:
anyway back to the batts - i like your frame but i really would like the batts black? i thought i would cover them as the lower one may get hit with stones etc and i though if i leave them "naked" It was asking for trouble?
i'll take a look at rs and see what they have got - i really want the batts where they are in the drawing and i want them to appear as just black boxes - if you can find a way to do this cheapish that would be great.
oh well back to the drawing board!!!!!
cheers mate,
D
yes that does look a lot simpler and the lateral movement is well taken care of - i don't really like the idea of one batt at the back on the rack, definately want them both where they are in the drawing.
the guys that would do the job of making the seat and the brackets for the battery wanted 500 quid!!!!
thats a shit load of money but i would be prepared to pay it if the finish was top drawer.
controller is here!!!
a little wider than the xlyte but not enough to make me change my mind on location, should fit snugly under the seat although it will make it 15mm wider - i'll have to check with another cardboard seat that it's not too wide to pedal though, should be ok.man, aren't those phase wires short?
the xlyte give you 50 meters of battery and motor cable and the puma gives you 5 inches :lol: anyway back to the batts - i like your frame but i really would like the batts black? i thought i would cover them as the lower one may get hit with stones etc and i though if i leave them "naked" It was asking for trouble?
i'll take a look at rs and see what they have got - i really want the batts where they are in the drawing and i want them to appear as just black boxes - if you can find a way to do this cheapish that would be great.
oh well back to the drawing board!!!!!
cheers mate,
D
Hi DC
500 quid is a little steep IMO the frames are cheap and easy to make, ally welding isn't costly, I will have a dig about on RS and see if I can find the bits.
It is a good idea to seal the batteries where they are, the sides on those batteries are only thin plate and sometimes the packs can split down the sides when vibrated or if the pouches expand a little (this does happen) not to worry though its quite common. I would (if you want them black) simply neatly wrap them in thick black plastic, this would seal them and they would look fine.
The only issue with the one on the downtube is stones and debris flying up and hitting the pack, the pack should be able to stand quite a bit of abuse there though so you should be ok.
Dont go back to the drawing board!! just pick an idea and go for it!! the frame idea is nice and simple, I will get mine knocked up and fitted to the bike to show you what I mean.
A good quality pipe clamp is also amazingly strong you could make something even simpler with a little thought, I would still personally try and fit them to the rear, the Dirt Monkey looks cool as hell with them mounted there and it doesnt affect the handling as much as you would think.
Anyway glad that you got the controller, I need to go out there and put the BMX back to normal now and get the other motors off to Mark, greedy me having 3 x pumas sat in a box doing nothing!! ha ha.
Right take it easy and get those frame mounts made either way.
P
500 quid is a little steep IMO the frames are cheap and easy to make, ally welding isn't costly, I will have a dig about on RS and see if I can find the bits.
It is a good idea to seal the batteries where they are, the sides on those batteries are only thin plate and sometimes the packs can split down the sides when vibrated or if the pouches expand a little (this does happen) not to worry though its quite common. I would (if you want them black) simply neatly wrap them in thick black plastic, this would seal them and they would look fine.
The only issue with the one on the downtube is stones and debris flying up and hitting the pack, the pack should be able to stand quite a bit of abuse there though so you should be ok.
Dont go back to the drawing board!! just pick an idea and go for it!! the frame idea is nice and simple, I will get mine knocked up and fitted to the bike to show you what I mean.
A good quality pipe clamp is also amazingly strong you could make something even simpler with a little thought, I would still personally try and fit them to the rear, the Dirt Monkey looks cool as hell with them mounted there and it doesnt affect the handling as much as you would think.
Anyway glad that you got the controller, I need to go out there and put the BMX back to normal now and get the other motors off to Mark, greedy me having 3 x pumas sat in a box doing nothing!! ha ha.
Right take it easy and get those frame mounts made either way.
P
Hi
Quick photoshop viz, they wouldn't look so bad on the back? you could clamp them on the top tube or down tube, this wouldn't be hard to make as you could adapt an existing clamp as Y pedal has done?
If you didnt like them being visible you may find after market moto x side cowlings could be adapted to cover them?
Cheers
P
Quick photoshop viz, they wouldn't look so bad on the back? you could clamp them on the top tube or down tube, this wouldn't be hard to make as you could adapt an existing clamp as Y pedal has done?
If you didnt like them being visible you may find after market moto x side cowlings could be adapted to cover them?
Cheers
P
Attachments
hi all
dc if you are covering the bottom battery pack with thin plastic to make it black could you put a sheet of aluminium between the battery and the covering, maplins do sheets 2mm thick but if you really want stone proof I have som 6mm sheet aluminium and could cut you off a enough post should not be too mutch uk to uk.
dc if you are covering the bottom battery pack with thin plastic to make it black could you put a sheet of aluminium between the battery and the covering, maplins do sheets 2mm thick but if you really want stone proof I have som 6mm sheet aluminium and could cut you off a enough post should not be too mutch uk to uk.
hi mate,
im not convinced, wouldn't it be a hell of a lot of weight on the rear?? i can see me having trouble keeping the front down at 72v going uphill, especially if i'm sitting too :lol:
i will press on with getting them either side of the top tube i think, maybe ill take it down to the ally guys and see what they think of my plans.
cheers
D
im not convinced, wouldn't it be a hell of a lot of weight on the rear?? i can see me having trouble keeping the front down at 72v going uphill, especially if i'm sitting too :lol:
i will press on with getting them either side of the top tube i think, maybe ill take it down to the ally guys and see what they think of my plans.
cheers
D
hi geoff,
yes its a good idea and let the sheet take the stone hits.
im in a bit of a quandry with what to do to mount my cells but i'm swaying back to the perspex box idea then i wouldn't need to worry, paul and i have been discussing it as it seems to be very expensive but at the end of the day i want a good finish and i think i'll have to pay top dollar for a top finish
cheers
D
yes its a good idea and let the sheet take the stone hits.
im in a bit of a quandry with what to do to mount my cells but i'm swaying back to the perspex box idea then i wouldn't need to worry, paul and i have been discussing it as it seems to be very expensive but at the end of the day i want a good finish and i think i'll have to pay top dollar for a top finish
cheers
D
ChopperMan
10 W
Hi D,
Stick to your guns.... your the one riding it. Personally I too perfer the 'In Frame' look for the batts.
£500 is very steep. I have been working with a local company to build my new frame and I am sure they wouldn't mind having a look to give to a price.
PM me if your interested.
Cheers,
Ian
Stick to your guns.... your the one riding it. Personally I too perfer the 'In Frame' look for the batts.
£500 is very steep. I have been working with a local company to build my new frame and I am sure they wouldn't mind having a look to give to a price.
PM me if your interested.
Cheers,
Ian
hi all
I agree chopperman stick to your guns D batteries placed mid bike make for a lot more stable a bike when its built along the line of a triles bike.
chopperman my chopper is going through a change ,picked up a stingray second hand from my LBS going to move all electrics on to new bike.
I agree chopperman stick to your guns D batteries placed mid bike make for a lot more stable a bike when its built along the line of a triles bike.
chopperman my chopper is going through a change ,picked up a stingray second hand from my LBS going to move all electrics on to new bike.
hi guys, Geoff,ian thanks on both offers of help - may take you both up on them if thats ok?
yes thanks for the support guys mid frame it is.
I have to say knoxie your idea was far simpler and better than mine to the point that i've blatantly stolen it
ok i am going into the shop with the bike tomorrow to see what they can do and i've adjusted knoxies design to better suit my need.
these are the "drawings" that i'll take with me and if he cant make this i won't evenask him about the seat!!
you guys see any problems here..........??????
yes thanks for the support guys mid frame it is.
I have to say knoxie your idea was far simpler and better than mine to the point that i've blatantly stolen it
ok i am going into the shop with the bike tomorrow to see what they can do and i've adjusted knoxies design to better suit my need.
these are the "drawings" that i'll take with me and if he cant make this i won't evenask him about the seat!!
you guys see any problems here..........??????
Attachments
BiGH
100 kW
see i agree with both of you!
so i think you should have one batt where the drink cage would go and another battery where knoxie has shown.
I just wouldn't be happy having the battery under the downtube. just in case anything is kicked up, like water, and it would look better back there.
and 500pounds? are you serious! couldn't you buy the tools to make it for that? thats $1100 AUD! i hope you laughed in their face!
so i think you should have one batt where the drink cage would go and another battery where knoxie has shown.
I just wouldn't be happy having the battery under the downtube. just in case anything is kicked up, like water, and it would look better back there.
and 500pounds? are you serious! couldn't you buy the tools to make it for that? thats $1100 AUD! i hope you laughed in their face!
xyster
10 MW
Lowell said:
Unless the pack is under 7kg or so, I agree. I spent the better part of two months moving 20lbs of batteries to the front because the handling was so pepto abysmal.
Hi DC
Yes I had thought of the top Lid as well but you don't really need it, if you just go with the base frame you can simply strap them in, I use small friction straps on my bikes they work a treat and are cheap, of course the neatest option will be to have the top section, just trying to keep the costs down here.
Lowell is right the best place for any weight is as low down as you can get it and had you been strapping lead acid batteries down there I would say go for it, however you are not you will have a 500 quid pack in quite a vulnerable position bearing in mind you will be primarily riding the bike off road, if you loose your front wheel down a hole that pack is going to get crunched? this is why I suggest at least one pack on the rear, it wont affect the handling anywhere near as badly as you think, its only 10lbs! I used to ride around with 40lbs of lead on a rack and it was fine.
Of course the choice is yours its your bike, I just wouldn't want you to have to call Mark for a new pack (I don't think he is getting any more as he is in with Matra and the TF bikes) so just want you to get some good service from them, Steve Heads little DM handles great and the weight from that is all on the back, you just have to adjust the way that you ride, its a trade off! but by all means go for it if you want to mate its your call!!
Cheers
P
Yes I had thought of the top Lid as well but you don't really need it, if you just go with the base frame you can simply strap them in, I use small friction straps on my bikes they work a treat and are cheap, of course the neatest option will be to have the top section, just trying to keep the costs down here.
Lowell is right the best place for any weight is as low down as you can get it and had you been strapping lead acid batteries down there I would say go for it, however you are not you will have a 500 quid pack in quite a vulnerable position bearing in mind you will be primarily riding the bike off road, if you loose your front wheel down a hole that pack is going to get crunched? this is why I suggest at least one pack on the rear, it wont affect the handling anywhere near as badly as you think, its only 10lbs! I used to ride around with 40lbs of lead on a rack and it was fine.
Of course the choice is yours its your bike, I just wouldn't want you to have to call Mark for a new pack (I don't think he is getting any more as he is in with Matra and the TF bikes) so just want you to get some good service from them, Steve Heads little DM handles great and the weight from that is all on the back, you just have to adjust the way that you ride, its a trade off! but by all means go for it if you want to mate its your call!!
Cheers
P
Ypedal
100 TW
" It's only money ! " lol.. :lol:
Seriously tho, it's your bike, so have it your way ! no compromise in satisfaction !
Spray from the front tire won't be a problem with the pack below the downtube, messy but harmless if everything is carefully sealed.. ( the nice expensive finish will get scratched, but that's just battle scars !! )
The " crunch " factor is worth considering, if you ride in unknown territory. As long as your front sproket is lower than the bottom of the box, it will take the brunt of most hazards you may find, i never had a problem with my downtube box, and it went below the chainring.. you ride with your setup in mind and plan ahead when you have expensive packs hanging below ! lol..
The handling of my current setup is not nearly as good as it was on Nimh, but the power deliver is not even comparable... Lithium rules my friend.. ! My 2 large saddle boxes behind my ass make the bike handle just fine on the pave but make the ride scary off-road with a lighter front end.. I have to slow down in turns compared to before..
But.. in all fairness.. the 2 large heavy packs on the back seatpost are fine on my bike, 68 km/h tested and no problems in a straight smooth line..
For real off-road use.. get them in the frame. It's a real PITA to get done bue once completed the feeling you get from a job well done is worth the effort !!!
Seriously tho, it's your bike, so have it your way ! no compromise in satisfaction !
Spray from the front tire won't be a problem with the pack below the downtube, messy but harmless if everything is carefully sealed.. ( the nice expensive finish will get scratched, but that's just battle scars !! )
The " crunch " factor is worth considering, if you ride in unknown territory. As long as your front sproket is lower than the bottom of the box, it will take the brunt of most hazards you may find, i never had a problem with my downtube box, and it went below the chainring.. you ride with your setup in mind and plan ahead when you have expensive packs hanging below ! lol..
The handling of my current setup is not nearly as good as it was on Nimh, but the power deliver is not even comparable... Lithium rules my friend.. ! My 2 large saddle boxes behind my ass make the bike handle just fine on the pave but make the ride scary off-road with a lighter front end.. I have to slow down in turns compared to before..
But.. in all fairness.. the 2 large heavy packs on the back seatpost are fine on my bike, 68 km/h tested and no problems in a straight smooth line..
For real off-road use.. get them in the frame. It's a real PITA to get done bue once completed the feeling you get from a job well done is worth the effort !!!
Hi All
Right it's a done deal, the cages are being made for me this week and they are nearly identical to the last picture i posted.
A lot of good points there as always and after considering them all carefully i have decided to go with both batts mounted on the downtube.
I have been to the engineers this morning and shown them the same drawing that you saw at my last post - the engineer was a nice guy and said that the angled cage was a good design - cheers knoxie
the cost is £250 which is steep i know but being as all i have to is go back with the bike and let them fit it i dont think thats as bad as it might have been.
There are some minor changes to the drawing, the first being that the blocks on the underside of the frame are going to be moved to the ends to enable the batteries to sit right in the frame (previously the bottom battery would have had to sit on the bolt heads) this isn't a problem as i have space either end to spare and means the bottom pack sits snugly in the frame also.
secondly the frames are going to be made from steel, the aluminium frame would have been strong enough but the engineers concern was that ally is easily stripped if overtightened and i am reliant not only on 4 x 10mm bolts to hold it on but also 8 x 6mm alan key heads to hold the lids on too - given the size of the frames and blocks going to steel only increases the weight marginally and improves the threaded strength considerably.
thirdly the size of the angle is now 3mm thick and 25mm per side.i really didnt need 5mm in steel and the 3mm at 25mm wide is plenty.
the batts will be square to eack other not offset, offset would have been nice but it was close to impeding the forks and would require extra bolts - with straight on i can get away with four total to hold the brackets to the frame, so the end product should make my bike look like my signature exactly
i took the bike with me and one of the point 1 cells so the guy could really see what i was up to and how it will all fit together, there was a lot of questions about the bike and maybe i'll take it back there once im done to show them (along with the lbs and a few others who asked to see it when it's done!)
So, as a precaution i plan to line the bottom cage with a thin sheet of ally to protect the cell from debris off the front wheel - i do take on board the point about crunching the battery if the front wheel plunges but i will have at least 14" clearance from the ground to the bottom battery, thats more than enough i think, indeed my bash ring on the crank only has 9" clearance so we should be ok.
I'll post up some pics as soon as i get them done - should be the end of this week hopefully, a full days work for the guy.
I did take the cardboard model i made for the seat and although the engineer said he could do it it would be very expensive as it was time consuming, he suggested fibreglass and wood as alternatives but i'm not sure yet - i will get the cages done then i will wire the bike up and then finally i will get the seat made to fit and cover the controller (however this needs to be made).
Thanks for all the input guys - looks like my bike is finally coming together and i'll soon be ragging it at 72v 8)
cheers
D
Right it's a done deal, the cages are being made for me this week and they are nearly identical to the last picture i posted.
A lot of good points there as always and after considering them all carefully i have decided to go with both batts mounted on the downtube.
I have been to the engineers this morning and shown them the same drawing that you saw at my last post - the engineer was a nice guy and said that the angled cage was a good design - cheers knoxie
the cost is £250 which is steep i know but being as all i have to is go back with the bike and let them fit it i dont think thats as bad as it might have been.
There are some minor changes to the drawing, the first being that the blocks on the underside of the frame are going to be moved to the ends to enable the batteries to sit right in the frame (previously the bottom battery would have had to sit on the bolt heads) this isn't a problem as i have space either end to spare and means the bottom pack sits snugly in the frame also.
secondly the frames are going to be made from steel, the aluminium frame would have been strong enough but the engineers concern was that ally is easily stripped if overtightened and i am reliant not only on 4 x 10mm bolts to hold it on but also 8 x 6mm alan key heads to hold the lids on too - given the size of the frames and blocks going to steel only increases the weight marginally and improves the threaded strength considerably.
thirdly the size of the angle is now 3mm thick and 25mm per side.i really didnt need 5mm in steel and the 3mm at 25mm wide is plenty.
the batts will be square to eack other not offset, offset would have been nice but it was close to impeding the forks and would require extra bolts - with straight on i can get away with four total to hold the brackets to the frame, so the end product should make my bike look like my signature exactly
i took the bike with me and one of the point 1 cells so the guy could really see what i was up to and how it will all fit together, there was a lot of questions about the bike and maybe i'll take it back there once im done to show them (along with the lbs and a few others who asked to see it when it's done!)
So, as a precaution i plan to line the bottom cage with a thin sheet of ally to protect the cell from debris off the front wheel - i do take on board the point about crunching the battery if the front wheel plunges but i will have at least 14" clearance from the ground to the bottom battery, thats more than enough i think, indeed my bash ring on the crank only has 9" clearance so we should be ok.
I'll post up some pics as soon as i get them done - should be the end of this week hopefully, a full days work for the guy.
I did take the cardboard model i made for the seat and although the engineer said he could do it it would be very expensive as it was time consuming, he suggested fibreglass and wood as alternatives but i'm not sure yet - i will get the cages done then i will wire the bike up and then finally i will get the seat made to fit and cover the controller (however this needs to be made).
Thanks for all the input guys - looks like my bike is finally coming together and i'll soon be ragging it at 72v 8)
cheers
D
j3nks
1 mW
Hey D..
I've been away for a while and am catching up on your thread..
but i can't find how you have overcome running the two batteries together..
if the 55v bms was an issue
my new bike is running at 48v..
1 point 1 lipo 36v
and 1 sla 12v...
with crystalite 36-72v 35amp controller..
rolls along quite nicely..
but 72v has always been my goal..
I've been away for a while and am catching up on your thread..
but i can't find how you have overcome running the two batteries together..
if the 55v bms was an issue
my new bike is running at 48v..
1 point 1 lipo 36v
and 1 sla 12v...
with crystalite 36-72v 35amp controller..
rolls along quite nicely..
but 72v has always been my goal..
Hey J3nks,
no problems mate
if you have a look at knoxie's thread on the testing of the three new pumas he had you'll see he also had a controller sent from the factory specifically for the pumas.
It's a 36-72v 35a controller that knoxie suspects just eases off the current when run at 72v - the problem with the point 1 lipo's bms was only an issue when the controller failed, being as paul has tested the new pumas with the new controller we haven't yet tried it on the version of puma that you and i have but knoxie seems to think it will be ok and thats good enough for me
He did however test one of the new pumas on th new controller using 2 x point1's in series and they were fine - so i guess the new controller is key to running 2 point 1's in series.
I actually have the new controller now as knoxie sent it on to me at marks request so i will be running the 2 x point 1's at 72v by the end of next week.
i'm waiting on my battery cages that should be made for me by the end of this week and then i have to extend some of the wires on the controller and swap the connections for andersons.
I'm a bit busy this weekend finishing my decking but i hope to have the evenings and the whole of next weekend to get the bike running and take her out for a spin so i will post up how that goes and get some pictures up too.
I've temporarily sacked off the mx type seat as it has been sitting with a normal seat on it for a few days now and it's kinda growing on me as is.
originally the mx seat was just to cover the controller but now im using a smaller fatter controller i may just mount i on a small custom rear rack dependant on whether it is ok placed there or not.
Anyway mate i'll post up at the end of the week some pics of the cells on the bike and the new cage that hold them so keep an eye out i'll be testing the bike at 72v end of next week!!!!! 8)
cheers
D
no problems mate
if you have a look at knoxie's thread on the testing of the three new pumas he had you'll see he also had a controller sent from the factory specifically for the pumas.
It's a 36-72v 35a controller that knoxie suspects just eases off the current when run at 72v - the problem with the point 1 lipo's bms was only an issue when the controller failed, being as paul has tested the new pumas with the new controller we haven't yet tried it on the version of puma that you and i have but knoxie seems to think it will be ok and thats good enough for me
He did however test one of the new pumas on th new controller using 2 x point1's in series and they were fine - so i guess the new controller is key to running 2 point 1's in series.
I actually have the new controller now as knoxie sent it on to me at marks request so i will be running the 2 x point 1's at 72v by the end of next week.
i'm waiting on my battery cages that should be made for me by the end of this week and then i have to extend some of the wires on the controller and swap the connections for andersons.
I'm a bit busy this weekend finishing my decking but i hope to have the evenings and the whole of next weekend to get the bike running and take her out for a spin so i will post up how that goes and get some pictures up too.
I've temporarily sacked off the mx type seat as it has been sitting with a normal seat on it for a few days now and it's kinda growing on me as is.
originally the mx seat was just to cover the controller but now im using a smaller fatter controller i may just mount i on a small custom rear rack dependant on whether it is ok placed there or not.
Anyway mate i'll post up at the end of the week some pics of the cells on the bike and the new cage that hold them so keep an eye out i'll be testing the bike at 72v end of next week!!!!! 8)
cheers
D
Yo
Yes good luck with that DC, I am going to put some steel gears in one of my Pumas this week for a test, just want to see how loud they are, will let you know, it may be a good upgrade for stamped BMC motors as the gears can take a lot of strain at 2KW+ HPC make the exact same gears in steel or ally for a few quid, I will need to machine them out and fit some bearings, easily done though, should make this mod to one of my motors, the one that I have already welded, this should make this motor virtually indestructible!
Cheers
P
Yes good luck with that DC, I am going to put some steel gears in one of my Pumas this week for a test, just want to see how loud they are, will let you know, it may be a good upgrade for stamped BMC motors as the gears can take a lot of strain at 2KW+ HPC make the exact same gears in steel or ally for a few quid, I will need to machine them out and fit some bearings, easily done though, should make this mod to one of my motors, the one that I have already welded, this should make this motor virtually indestructible!
Cheers
P
Hi Knoxie,
Yes that will be very interesting to see how the new gears are for noise.
indeed with metal gears they should be pretty robust - are you going to fix the drive gear too?(oops my bad you have that welded already) im guessing the replacement ones are the planetry gears? ie the three around the main gear?
looking forward to seeing how that pans out, could be the answer to the few niggles the puma has then it would be a top motor indeed!!
Does anyone have any ideas what would be a suitable rear rack for my bike?
i only want to house the controller on it so all i need is 165mm length 100mm width and 50mm depth.
I am kinda thinking that i could buy a good rack and hack it about to my specs but i keep thinking that i would like to house the controller and have a rear guard all in one?
any ideas anyone?
watch it rain solid now i'm nearly set
need some tips on making everything waterproof too so i can still ride if it's raining?
cheers
D
Yes that will be very interesting to see how the new gears are for noise.
indeed with metal gears they should be pretty robust - are you going to fix the drive gear too?(oops my bad you have that welded already) im guessing the replacement ones are the planetry gears? ie the three around the main gear?
looking forward to seeing how that pans out, could be the answer to the few niggles the puma has then it would be a top motor indeed!!
Does anyone have any ideas what would be a suitable rear rack for my bike?
i only want to house the controller on it so all i need is 165mm length 100mm width and 50mm depth.
I am kinda thinking that i could buy a good rack and hack it about to my specs but i keep thinking that i would like to house the controller and have a rear guard all in one?
any ideas anyone?
watch it rain solid now i'm nearly set
need some tips on making everything waterproof too so i can still ride if it's raining?
cheers
D
Hi D
Yes the main gear on the Pumas is steel anyway so that's OK, I haven't stripped gears yet but I am sure given a lot of power and a bit of time it will be easy to do, so for fat power runners a steel gear upgrade would be a good one, its not to hard to do, just need to get the gear inner machined and 3 x roller bearings press fitted.
I cant think of anything to break then! sure its going to be more noisy, but if its only as bad as the Heinzmann then it wont be too bad, a good dollop of grease in there should keep the noise down a little, we shall see.
As far as racks got there are some pretty cheap alternatives around, check halfords as they do their own make, or Ebay? I got a nice cheap one for my controller on the Trek, can just remember the name of it off the top of my head.
Self amalgamating tape is great for sealing the cable against the wheel axle, you can easily remove it if you need to get in there at any time.
Its raining hard today so no ebiking for me either! just stuck inside surfing the net, oh its a hard life!
Take is easy
P
Yes the main gear on the Pumas is steel anyway so that's OK, I haven't stripped gears yet but I am sure given a lot of power and a bit of time it will be easy to do, so for fat power runners a steel gear upgrade would be a good one, its not to hard to do, just need to get the gear inner machined and 3 x roller bearings press fitted.
I cant think of anything to break then! sure its going to be more noisy, but if its only as bad as the Heinzmann then it wont be too bad, a good dollop of grease in there should keep the noise down a little, we shall see.
As far as racks got there are some pretty cheap alternatives around, check halfords as they do their own make, or Ebay? I got a nice cheap one for my controller on the Trek, can just remember the name of it off the top of my head.
Self amalgamating tape is great for sealing the cable against the wheel axle, you can easily remove it if you need to get in there at any time.
Its raining hard today so no ebiking for me either! just stuck inside surfing the net, oh its a hard life!
Take is easy
P
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