Does anyone know how to remove this?
- Thread starter swbluto
- Start date
TylerDurden
100 GW
Use a gear puller or the ghetto equivalent.
mwkeefer
1 MW
Press fit collar = )_
TylerDurden
100 GW
Ghetto puller:
metal bar or angle-steel, bolts and a socket that fits into the hole.
tighten the bolts to push the socket (purple) down onto the shaft (green)
If the collar is not threaded for the bolts, use nuts under the collar.
Tighten the bolts evenly, a bit at a time.
metal bar or angle-steel, bolts and a socket that fits into the hole.
tighten the bolts to push the socket (purple) down onto the shaft (green)
If the collar is not threaded for the bolts, use nuts under the collar.
Tighten the bolts evenly, a bit at a time.
mwkeefer
1 MW
You may also be able to drill and tap threads into the collar to use for pulling it (they could theoretically be used more than once) = )_
Love the ghetto puller cad = )_
Love the ghetto puller cad = )_
Very nice! I'm willing to bet that might have been the intention of the screws, even though the depth of the screws suggests multiple rods/rod-like entities(socket) that went against the shaft would be used during the course of pulling it. I'll see if I can do it. The unknown part is if I can drill the exiting metal I have laying around for the bar.TylerDurden said:
RWP
1 kW
If the slot in the collar goes all the way to the shaft...opening up the slot might release the collars grip on the shaft...
I just recognized this for what it is, a locking collar for a pulley.
The pulley goes slides over the locking collar and the bolts go into the face of the pulley. As the bolts are tightened, the pulley is drawn up to the flange, the slit part is squeezed and grabs onto the shaft. This is usually used with cast iron pulleys in farm equipment where weight is no problem.
The locking collar itself doesn't really grab onto the shaft, unless the pulley is attached to the locking collar and drawn up tight with the bolts. The grab you're experiencing may be due to a little oxidation, a rough shaft that has embedded itself into the inside of the collar, or just plain ornery-ness. There is no trick, it should come off without much work. Maybe try a little heat, maybe bolt on a piece of steel to hammer it off, maybe tap a little on the center shaft to get the motor to fall out the bottom.
The next easiest way if that doesn't work, would be to put a piece of steel across the center hole, bolting it on using the existing holes, then put another bolt through the center to press out the shaft.
Either tap holes, or drill a plain hole and weld a nut over top - either way gets you a tapped hole.
Hope it works!
Katou
The pulley goes slides over the locking collar and the bolts go into the face of the pulley. As the bolts are tightened, the pulley is drawn up to the flange, the slit part is squeezed and grabs onto the shaft. This is usually used with cast iron pulleys in farm equipment where weight is no problem.
The locking collar itself doesn't really grab onto the shaft, unless the pulley is attached to the locking collar and drawn up tight with the bolts. The grab you're experiencing may be due to a little oxidation, a rough shaft that has embedded itself into the inside of the collar, or just plain ornery-ness. There is no trick, it should come off without much work. Maybe try a little heat, maybe bolt on a piece of steel to hammer it off, maybe tap a little on the center shaft to get the motor to fall out the bottom.
The next easiest way if that doesn't work, would be to put a piece of steel across the center hole, bolting it on using the existing holes, then put another bolt through the center to press out the shaft.
Either tap holes, or drill a plain hole and weld a nut over top - either way gets you a tapped hole.
Hope it works!
Katou
liveforphysics
100 TW
Drive something tapered into the slot on each side. Something like the tip of a flat blade screwdriver. It should release it's grip on the shaft. The threaded holes in a pulley taper lock are for getting the pulley off the taper, but in your case, by simply putting in longer bolts you could push off that base plate area, but it will thrust load the bearings.
Thanks for all the ideas. I've removed it successfully using the ghetto puller method by drilling into some bar stock. It seems like the tapered screw-driver method would've been easier (And it seems like the typical it-should-have-seemed-so-obvious solution that liveforphysics seems to have a talent for.).
