D's RC Drive Kona DC1

[deecanio]

Hi Mitch,

no doubt that if its possible to get the drive in the box it would look ubercool 8) given that my hub is gone, bar the box itself the bike would look totally standard.

Until you actually mount the drive I think you should continue to think about both alternatives (seat tube and in your box). If you can figure out the heat and waterproofing I think that the actual mounting in the box will be easier.

totally. theres a reason that we haven't needed to start on the pack rebuild yet and it's to leave me with as many options as possible :wink: , however at this stage,i think the best width that matt can do for the drive is 4 1/2", thats about 115mm, and probably on the hopeful side of measurements too so its a no go for now, don't get me wrong i love the idea but i want the kit on and working to test before i think anymore about it, what would i do if i find for whatever reason that the drive/motor/combo had unfixable issues?, it'd be too late if i reworked my whole box to accomadate it? test first, customise later :wink:

All the things i'd love to do will have to wait with the box,probably until next winter, i'll use the one in the bike for now as it will be so easy just to swap controls and run it and that is MOST definately the plan for this year being as i missed last seasons riding all together whilst having the box made, worth it for sure, but im not doing it again this time time to ride !!!!

cheers,

D

 

[rastamax]

Thanks for the links on throttle options. I really like the plunger too for some reason. Wish i can go for that..

This is the beast I rode last summer. 45 lbs of pure plushness But I won't use this frame for my build. There is already too much going on in this one. (even though it's a very simple design). I will transfer most of the parts though as it is a very good build.I already designed a frame of my own that Im gonna build out of carbon fiber. That will allow me to cover to whole assembly ,making the thing very stealthy.Almost all the material has showed up by now. Still need to make a jig and machine the aluminum parts and of course settle on the motor and drivetrain. Also have to put together a vacuum pump setup for which all the parts are now laying around the house. Take a look at this one for a good idea of what I will look like http://www.farkin.net/article/2bbd5d/Lahar_DHV_M9_First_Look.

Take out the rohloff gearbox and replace with motor assembly (roughly same weight) and add 5-8 lbs of battery for a sub 50 lbs electric downhill bike So thats my goal. Hopefully everything goes well and I can try it before summer.

P.s. D I can see you drooling from here I had a Stinky as my first bike and liked it but this one is something else I can tell you that :wink:

Max

 

[HAL9000v2.0]

.... what I will look like http://www.farkin.net/article/2bbd5d/Lahar_DHV_M9_First_Look...
.

You have Lahar ?!?

Once I test drive it for a half an hour...I love it. Great suspension. It just float.
I am a little bit skeptical about carbon DH frame but this one look good. As I manage to feel the thicknes of frame, is about 2mm that is about 15-20 layers.
But +7000$ for a bike turns me down.
How do you plan to make the frame, around the foam or in the mold...

 

[rastamax]

Is there a reason why you guys wanna run 48 V instead of 24 V with a higher Kv motor. Wouldn't that give you a smaller battery pack too. Sorry if this sounds a bit stupid I am still illiterate at all this stuff.

Thanks

Max

 

[rastamax]

No unfortunately I do not own a Lahar. But am looking to build something really similar. Suspension design is very similar although there is an extra link at the bottom for a dual progressive leverage ratio. The inverted 4-bar is sweet cause the shock can be put very low allowing to mount the motor over it and still achieve a very decent low center of gravity . Now is that thing gonna be fun or what

Max

 

[rastamax]

An d I will do a foam core with a vacuum bagging system.

 

[HAL9000v2.0]

You can turn around lower triangle and move upper links up so the trapezoid stays the same and then mount shock under the crank axle. If you are using standart 28T there is plenty of room for a shock and the sprocket will still be the lowest part and you get more room for motor and gearbox directly over axle.

 

[rastamax]

I could but I spent so much time on the design that now I think that is what I will settle on. I also would not like having the shock so exposed but I guess I could cover it up in some way. The output shaft on Matt's drive also have to be at a very precise location to prevent chain growth and kickback to the motor. So instead of gearbox I put the motor assembly and it has to be quite high given the height of the pivot.

 

[rastamax]

But the more I think about it the more I think its worth giving a shot on the suspension simulator... Thanks for the idea

 

[HAL9000v2.0]

The more I think of it more I like it. To make it ligter replace lower pull bars with carbon strings....
we totaly killed D's thread.
I 'll back off.

 

[rastamax]

Yeah I'm sorry about that No more

 

[deecanio]

Hi Max,Hal,

hey no don't worry it's fine, i love this kind of build - this is the kind of dh bike that makes me drool, awesome bike, really top end gear right there, 8)
this should be some ebike .
I guess i choose well then as the stinky is my first serious mtb too, i did consider going with a full on dh bike but too many things were against it, not least the setups available at the time, different game now tho you lucky swine :lol:
the bike suits me as a novice rider and i havent really extended it that much yet, if i get to the point where its not enough for me i will have improved as a rider one HELL of a lot :wink: from an ebike perspective it's a great rolling chassis, oodles of space in the triangle for the electrics and some decent suspension to boot and most important it pivots in a non intrusive way, but would i like to convert max's bike? hell yeh

Cheers,

D

 

[recumpence]

Hey D,

I got sidetracked on a few things this week. :?

Anyway, Gary's drive is shipped. So, I am focussing on your drive and one other at the same time. I had to go with a 70 tooth main pulley. 66 tooth is not available in stock for me to machine. It would have been a special order. So, I am starting with a 70 tooth blank and going from there.

I am assuming you want your motor pulley bored to 3/8 inch for the Astro motor same as Gary?

Matt

 

[deecanio]

Hi Matt,

i was wondering how it was going but i didn't want to hassle you knowing how much you have on your plate.
Yes identical to Gary's astro mounting please Matt and also yes 3/8 bore on the motor pulley thx

do you have a standard 60t pulley with you?, i could stretch to 66 but i don't want to wait for a special order, if you dont have 60t in stock then 70t will do but 60t is my preference?
Having said that i think Miles may take a look and tell me to go with the 70t, looks a bit big to me though. erm i'll ask miles tonight and get back to you on that if thats ok?

Don't worry about getting sidetracked, i dont have my motor yet and also i don't have my controller, must drop Gary and John a pm to see where we are.

Thanks Matt, i'll get the size of the pulley finalised asap and get back to you.

Cheers,

D

 

[recumpence]

I had to order some 70 tooth blanks anyway. So, I just added one extra. No biggie.

60 tooth might be too small to fit the FW inside anyway. :wink:

Matt

 

[Miles]

LOL!

D,

70t is 110mm dia. If that's really too big for something which has wheels 26 inches in diameter...... , then:

17t to 60t is the same ratio - now that you are no longer using the 3220, I guess I could compromise on that - no guarantees, mind....

How about 17t to 70t?

Hey Matt,

How come your last post has a later time than my one following it

 

[deecanio]

eh? yours is 2.37 Matts is 2.28?

im a bit lost miles (again ) we were going for 19t to 66t to gain the extra wrap on the motor pulley?
if 70t is 110mm then i guess its not toooooo bad, but, 60 is only 95mm
can i have 19t-60t pretty please?

how about if the eno fits 19/60?
if the eno is too big 19/70?

not too big for the bike miles, too big for the box

Cheers,

D

 

[Miles]

not too big for the bike miles, too big for the box

Ah, right - thought it was just a visual thing

19t to 70t would be best.

If the 70t is too big, then 17t to 60t, if you want to keep the same ratio as before but, otherwise, 19t to 60t.

Anyway, swapping the small pulley later on is simple enough.... How about getting Matt to bore out a 17t and a 19t for you?

 

[GGoodrum]

I heard back from Michele yesterday that the motor is basically put together, but that Bob still had to test it. Hard to get anything more than brief, one sentance answers out of her, but I'm hoping to drive up and pick it up before the weekend. I'm really chomping at the bit to get this going. I should get's Matt's drive today or tomorrow. I've got some ideas on how to mount the mount, but I can't really work all that out until I get everything.

In the meantime, I still need to sort some of the rest of the items out. I'm finishing up a new 16s5p a123 pack, with an embedded 16-channel LVC board, and I need to help Richard finsih up the RC throttle convertor board and get some of those on order. I will start with an HV110, but if the borderline-too-high voltage from the 16s a123 pack blows it, I'll have to rob the 63V PowerJazz off my Hacker setup, until I can sort out the voltage issue. I also have an EagleTree elogger, with the LCD panel, that I want to use like a "CA". In addition to trying to figure out a "non-ghetto" way of mounting the drive/motor to the down tube, I need to make room for the electronics, which includes the controller, the throttle board and the ET unit.

Anyway, today I will try and get ahold of Bob, at AF, and find out when my motor wil be ready, and also find out when he will have more of these finished.

BTW, going with a 19T/70T pulley setup will give you even more low-end torque, while still allowing a potential 50 mph top end speed in 3rd.

-- Gary

 

[deecanio]

Hi Gary,

thanks for the info, hopefully AF will have your motor ready any day and mine not long after
As far as the ratio goes if im now using the 3210 instead of the 3220 i was kinda hoping to go with 17t/60t rather than 19/70 just for size, if we still have the issue with insufficient "wrap" then i'd like to go 19/60, if thats still not enough then lastly 19/70.
If matt finds the ENO is too big for a 60 then no decision to make, 70 it will have to be
Miles, excellent suggestion if Matts willing to do me a 17 and a 19 in 3/8th bore....Matt?
Same as you Gary i still haven't bought all my kit yet, i still need to buy a #219 chain and tool and i will also need a throttle board from you and Richard when they are available.
I'm not stressing too much as it seems everything is on track to be here before the end of Feb, i did pick the bike up so i can measure at homeand i'll post some pics when i get chance with the new wheel, looks much more standard which i'm really pleased about.
I will crack on with setting up my 3 speed rear but i lost some of my deraileur bits so i'll get a 9 speed shimano deraileur and also a 9 speed shimano cassete but that must be individual sprockets as the one i have now is two individual sprockets then a lump of 7 all pinned together, i guess i could remove the pins and see if it works but tbh the setting up of the shifter is more of a concern.
Hopefully i will have my drive and motor soon then i can really start to plan, looking forward to seeing your mounting Gary.

Cheers,


D

 

[recumpence]

I will try to shoe-horn it into a 60. I will be at the shop this afternoon working on it. I will let you know if I can do it.

Also, I am including a slighly longer than normal output shaft for you. That way we will know it will fit your output sprocket. Any excess can be cut off with a diegrinder if needed. You should have about 25 or 30mm of shaft protruding out the end of the drive.

Matt

 

[deecanio]

Hi Matt,

that's great news, i hope it goes into the 60 but i'll go with whatever you tell me is best, is it ok to do me a 17 & 19 3/8 bore motor pulley too?
Thanks for thinking of the extra shaft length, that will be mega useful for lining up and also mounting, i hadn't even considered it, just thought i'd have to line it up by mounting adjust, idiot
OOh i got a mail from JRH hv110 is on its way, all coming together just fine, thx guys

Cheers,

D

 

[recumpence]

Good news. A 60 will work fine. The only issue is all my 60 tooth pullies are already machined (hollowed out). So, I will order a fresh 60 tooth pulley to install the FW into.

Matt

 

[deecanio]

Hi Matt,

thats great news,thank you, what did you think about sending 2 motor pulleys is that ok? if it's extra just let me know, it would be a good idea to have both i think
p.s. i just noticed same amount of posts to the unit,weird.

Cheers,

D

 

[flyinmonkie]

D, as far as your 9 speed cassette, the pins should actually be little screws and can be taken right out. All the sprockets and spacers will fall apart individually. Use those spacers to keep the original sprocket spacing and either get a single speed spacer kit or use some PVC pipe to fill up the rest of the cassette body.

FM