D's RC Drive Kona DC1

[recumpence]

D,

Yes, I can get a 19 tooth pulley too when I order your 60 tooth pulley tomorrow.

I am one post ahead of you now!

Matt

 

[GGoodrum]

I am one post ahead of you now!

And 5 ahead of me... 8)

 

[recumpence]

Six ahead. :wink:

Matt

 

[deecanio]

hehehehe, thanks Matt
Thanks FM i'll check that out tomorrow if i get chance, if it's possible i'll use them again, do you know if the spacers between the sprockets fit into each other? say sprocket, 3spacers,sprocket etc?

Cheers,

D

 

[flyinmonkie]

D, they all just stack next to each other. The spacers should have 3 "teeth" that slide into the grooves on the cassette body. You can space them anyway you want. If you want to use the same shifter and be able to shift on the go, then space your 3 sprockets with one spacer between them. That way they will match the cable pull distance of the shifter.

FM

 

[deecanio]

Hi FM,

what im going to try if i get chance this weekend is working out how to space them to match the front shifter, i want to try putting the rear shifters cable in the front shifter so that it reaches the rear deraileur, i don't think that it will be too difficult to swap them and then work out the distance of shift and match up the three rear sprockets, i'll need some custom spacers (maybe a "1er" kit needed) but i think i can do it, i'd like to have the 3 chosen sprockets nearest the frame but we'll see how that pans out :lol:

Cheers,

D

 

[flyinmonkie]

Excellent D. Good luck with it. You can make custom spacers out of PVC or if you can get your hands on some steel or aluminum pipe the right size as well. That may be what you need to get the right spacing. I'm looking forward to see if you get it sorted.

FM

 

[deecanio]

Hi FM,

yes it will be intersting to see if it works, i've never even seen inside a shifter but meh, what can go wrong? :lol:

Cheers,

D

 

[MitchJi]

Hi,

Excellent D. Good luck with it. You can make custom spacers out of PVC or if you can get your hands on some steel or aluminum pipe the right size as well. That may be what you need to get the right spacing. I'm looking forward to see if you get it sorted.

FM

Would these help?:
http://www.treefortbikes.com/91_333222338205__Single-Speed-Spacer-Kit.html

Got a rear wheel from a geared bike collecting dust in your garage? Maybe it's time you gave it some new life as a single-speed wheel. We now offer a single-speed spacer kit that allows you to use single-speed cassette cogs on the freehub body of your multi-speed Shimano cassette-compatible hub. With the supplied selection of anodized aluminum spacers, you can attain a perfect chainline to compliment your road, track, or mountain crankset. Our large-diameter stainless steel cassette lockring holds everything together and perfectly matches the outside diameter of the spacers. Plus, it matches the machined shoulder of our single-speed cassette cogs (not included). The lockring is machined to utilize a common Shimano cassette lockring tool for installation and removal. This isn't just a mix of off-the-shelf parts; we went the extra distance to give you a kit that will provide maximum functionality, durability, and aesthetic value

 

[deecanio]

Hi Mitch,

Thanks for the link, i'll check out exactly what the spacing i need is and then see if a spacer kit will help, being as they are designed to take up the space with only one sprocket on i'm not sure if they'll be the right sizes to space between the three, i think this will need custom spacers but i'll get the cables changed over then im hoping i can put a new deore derailuer on the back and see exactly how much the front shifter moves the derailuer, i did have a thought that if its quite a wide space to jump i may put 5 sprockets on so that even if it misses it falls onto an "inbetween" sprocket but we'll see.

**edit** well the 9 spd shimano casette i have is definatley pinned not screwed so i cant break it into single sprockets, this has me looking at the marchisio single sprockets, i can get a 11/21/30 in singles for £30 ish and then have the custom spacers made later once i know what the spacing is from the rear derailleur using the front shifter, i'll look at swapping the cables in the shifters tomorrow then i'll know if it will work or not.

Cheers,

D

 

[MitchJi]

Hi D,

Hi Mitch,

Thanks for the link, i'll check out exactly what the spacing i need is and then see if a spacer kit will help, being as they are designed to take up the space with only one sprocket on i'm not sure if they'll be the right sizes to space between the three, i think this will need custom spacers.

Cheers,

D

Custom spacers might be the best solution but the Surly Cassette-type Cogs are designed to be used in simple multiple speed drives. It sounds like they might be a good choice for your rear sprockets.

Our cassette-type cogs are designed to fit on standard Shimano compatible freehub bodies. These cogs have a tall tooth profile that is essential for preventing chain skip from the extra torque a singlespeed drivetrain encounters. In addition to being a stellar SS cog, the cog base width (where it contacts the freehub body) is 4.35mm, so you can stack a few of them up and use a 9-speed shifter for a simplified multi-speed drivetrain. This width also prevents it from ruining the freehub body as a result of digging grooves into it like skinny stamped cogs have a tendency to do. Surly cogs are machined from SCM415 CroMoly steel, then heat-treated for toughness and chrome-plated for surface hardening and enhanced chain lubricity. Our cogs will work with 6-9-speed 3/32" chains, although we recommend the inherently updated quality of an 8 or 9 speed chain. They are also available in every increment from 13-22t, so you can select that perfect gear.

It sounds like the spacers are designed to work with their Cogs, but maybe not multiple cogs:

Got a rear wheel from a geared bike collecting dust in your garage? Maybe it’s time you gave it some new life as a single-speed wheel. We now offer a single-speed spacer kit that allows you to use single-speed cassette cogs on the freehub body of your multi-speed Shimano cassette-compatible hub.

You might want to email Surly Tech Support and ask if they think they will work for you.
derby@surlybikes.com

I think these have the same bolt pattern as your Extron Sprocket (5.25" bolt circle?). If so drilling out the center from the back to fit the White FW might be easier than fabricating something from scratch.

http://www.gokartgalaxy.com/uni-hubs_&_vari-hubs.htm

or (same item):
http://www.jackssmallengines.com/gokaz_hubsprocket.cfm#Anchor Mark IV

 

[deecanio]

Hi Mitch,

thanks for the heads up on the surly sprockets, the main reason i haven't gone for them is the biggest size i can see is 22t.
I've ordered 3 marchisio sprockets now, 11,21,30 (30 is the biggest), i've also ordered a couple of different gear cables as they were just a few pounds and also a shimano deore rear derailleur - i will set up the front shifter with a new cable and use the sleeve from the previous rear shifter, that way i dont have to mess with the rear shifters cable allowing me to use it if my plan goes tits up
im hoping once i get that done i can then know exactly how much the front shifter moves the rear derailleur, one problem i may have is the jump of 10 teeth in one hit but i wont know if i can get around that until i see it working - i'm hoping that the derailleur wont have a problem but plan to adjust it to suit (as in adjust it so it never closes up on the smallest cog).
i've now ordered the drive sprockets x 2(11t), 219 chain, 128mm ISIS bb, so i'm pretty set to have a go at the gears soon as that lot turns up.
I'll have to try setting up my gears with the current road crank (i plan to use the 52t from this crank anyway) as i won't have the eno fitted to the chainring and extron until i get the bike back to jozzers for fitting.

Thanks for the link to the extron adapter, it sure would make it easy to mount the sprocket to the eno but it also would make it slightly more difficult to mount the chainring to the eno due to the large holes in the adapter, tbh i think custom is the way to go for the eno adapter and being as i'll have the 219 chain soon i'll be able to mount the extron and the chainring as close together as is sensible given that i'll know the width i need for both chains to pass each other comfortably.


MMMM. looking at the adapter again now i've looked properly at the extron and the chainring side by side mmmmm.
need to build more and post less to see

should be building very very soon .


Cheers,


D

 

[deecanio]

Hi all,

bike is coming on well and i have done a few little bits so i'm ready for the arrival of my drive for fitting.
Once that turns up and i work out how i want to do it i'll take it to steves the folowing weekend, hopefully the one after this.
i'll ask steve to take some snaps and vids of test rides as he goes and hopefully i'll be able to pick her up again in working order come April

i bought a new deraileur as mine was shot and i'd lost a few bits so i also got a new 2m gear cable at the same time and fitted both.
This was where i planned to put a longer cable in the front shifter control in order to operate the rear deraileur with it so i took the shifter apart totally and changed the cable, then i discovered the plastic screw/cover in the rear of the mech which lets you change the cable without doing anything else oh well at least i know how the shifter works and that i can repair it if i need to.
Anyway 2m cable with the front 3 spd shifter and fitted with the rear cable shrouding i threaded it up and onto the rear deraileur and gave it a test - pictures are exactly as it panned out straight out of the box so obviously plenty of room for tweaking but it picked up a 12/22/28 setting immediately, this told me two things, i don't need custom singles (cancelled order) and secondly with adjustment i could get every gear i chose from the std 9 speed casette, nice.
theres a good shot here of most of the "worry" areas but with most things held in place by hand all tolerances look doable,i had an idea that this might be pretty easy to revert to standard but not that would be THIS easy, makes a nice change lol
Anyway have a look see and holla if you think you have a better idea!!

Cheers,


D

 

[GGoodrum]

Looks good, D, but I agree, it will be tight. What happens when the suspension compresses, does that area get even smaller? What is the distance between the tire and the pivot point for that top arm? That is where the motor will need to fit, so if you've got a bit over 3" there, you shouold be alright. The big pulley won't be an issue, as it will straddle the seat tube, like you said. I think even my 70T would fit. I also think you'll probably have room for the clamp mounts as well.

One thing you need to measure is the distance between the centerline of the seat tube/frame, and the Extron #219 chainring/sprocket. If it is as I suspect, about 2-2.25", you'll probably want the longer output shaft, like I'm getting.

-- Gary

 

[etard]

D,
Something like this could be used as your bash guard. Some of them come in 2 pieces and bolts to your existing hole pattern.

Here is one for cheap on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/alum...m14&_trkparms=72:727|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318

 

[deecanio]

Hi Etard,

thanks for the sugestion but your forgetting the bashguard can't be bolted to the chainring as it needs to stay still while the chainrings spin, its less of a real bashguard but more an ankle guard.
I need to fab one and the best place to mount is directly onto the crank arm, on the freewheel crank arms there is 3mm or so for mounting a bashring (if your not using one you should use the spacer supplied with the cranks) so i'll mount there and then i can use a nice flat black disk which will be dished or not depending on the location of the extron sprocket, shouldn't have a problem really but need to consider it along with an adapter for the chainrings as it's all one issue really.


**EDIT**

hi Gary, i just realised i didn't answer your questions, well the suspension doesnt move around too much in that area tbh, the rear lower arm travels straight up but not by much and the top half moves upward to but doesnt affect the gb space - i think i will get away with it due to the nature of the suspension but we'll see soon once the gb arrives, i'll tape it in place and give a good bounce test to see how it fits

Cheers,

D

 

[deecanio]

Hi All,

i went and picked up my ESC from the mail depot today, talk about mess about, if i hadn't called them i still would have no clue that they had it, to be fair they only got it on the 20th but still 5 days to notify me? if at all? oh and get this, even if i waited until the letter turned up then called them and paid them over the phone i would still have to wait for them to "attempt" delivery (even though we both know im at work ) before i could collect it as it's their legal obligation to try, as the letter hadn't arrived an i had all the details and some photo id they let me take it today, good job as i was already at having to pay another £22 import duty, VAT included it kills me that i work hard, then pay tax on the money i earn, and with whats left i buy something, pay for postage, then pay more duty tax on it with my already taxed money and then they put VAT (uk 17.5.%tax) on the tax - i lose count how many times i've been taxed, man

Anyway rant over it's a nice looking piece of kit, i cant believe i'm going to pull more power through this than my modded xlyte, and so small the cables are nice 10awg and covered with quality rubber shroud, very bendy unlike most i've used before, standard caps will have to go i guess and then we'll see what it can do.

I'm hoping i might get real lucky and get the drive before the weekend but in reality it probably wont happen, shame as i can get it all down to steves this weekend and it would be nice to have it all in one hit to hand over for completion.
anywayz vooot!!! it'll be under way soon enough.

Cheers,

D

 

[methods]

The only thing I see wrong with this build is how clean your bike is.
Where is the mud

I look forward to watching this progress.
I think I will have an easier time of it with my stink since I can work in the triangle.
With that beautiful setup you already have it will take a little more ingenuity.

-methods

 

[recumpence]

D,

According to USPS tracking, your package is in Great Britain customs.

Soon, my friend, very soon!

Matt

 

[deecanio]

The only thing I see wrong with this build is how clean your bike is.
Where is the mud
-methods

hehehehee, it's only that clean as it's in the house at the mo :lol:
soon it will be filth methy

Matt,

Awesome, soon as it's attempted delivery that'll mean i'll be able to go and pick it up
i'll only have it for a day and then i'll be sending it down to jozzers for fitting, bike is moving along nicely now and the pack will be reconfigured this week, vorrrrt
soon be stinking around the woods at a good clip, i promise video from day one!!
It should all come together at the same time, once the drive is in my grubby hands and the mechanics will be done, hopefully Richard will be through testing by then also, happy days chaps, happy days indeed!!!

Cheers,

D

 

[recumpence]

?

 

[recumpence]

Earth to "D", Earth to "D". This is Mission Control. Do we have lift-off?

Give us a status please. This is mission control...............

Matt

 

[Jozzer]

Hehe, I got stinky here, we're working on the pack.
Mounting the motor will be far from easy, the intended space is too small and we're looking for alternatives mounting points.

Nice job on the drive reduction though Matt. Looks very pretty!

 

[deecanio]

hehehehe, you know what they say Matt, people in greenhouses etc :wink: roll
As steve sais we have the lovely drive down in the workshop but we found that the space behind the seatpost is a no go it's a crying shame i tells ya, although it fits lovely i had underestimated how much the wheel comes in towrad the post under compression, ironically its the motor itself and not the pulley that gets squished so we are temporarily screwed .

The easiest way out was to go back to 20" wheels, this would give us at least an inch of clearence at FULL compresion, however im totally against losing my 24's so that's not a plan i intend to follow.
Other solutions have been to make the stinker hard tail but again thats not favourite by a long shot.
These are the only two options to make the drive suitable for seatpost mounting - anything else means a downtube mount and here in lies our major headache, it's a damn shame too as the gb looks soooooo sweet mounted there.

This should explain the lack of posts, no update as yet you see.
my downtube is a major hurdle, it's round only near the bottom bracket then tapers upwards and soon becomes a square, very tricky to mount to.
The drive will have major forces on it which means the mounting has to be robust, i'm hoping that one of the other adopters will come up with something but i have the added problem of my battery box and i certainly dont want to mess with that if at all avoidable.
Bob is doing a fine job with the crank adapter and steve has done the pack to be 48v already but we are stalled on some other fronts too, we will need Richards board and also i need to order an esc program cable and have it sent to steve.
The guys have sent me some pics which illustrate the suspension problem, basically at full compression 20" is the largest wheel we will get in with the drive mounted to the post, for those who think dropping in the 20" is the answer you have to remember that i have run them on the stink before and they are not without their own issues, mainly clearence for the derailuer (why i went single speed) and the length of the crank arm (clearance to the ground),
It's a mofo to be sure but i'm away next week and so i can't see any progress happening any time soon.
This isn't all bad though as it will give me time to figure it out, as ever im the hardest person to please and it has to have form as well as funtion .
I'll post up some pics later so you guys can see whats going on and all suggestions welcomed.
this is only an issue with the stinkers square tapered downtube, if it was round we wouldn't have an issue but it isn't and we need a new plan.
I dont intened to change my battery box one iota this time around so that makes the task all the harder but you guys know me by now,it has to be strong, it has to be pretty, D-termined to do it right!!!!!!


Sooooooo Mr S, whats happening with the PK?


Cheers,

D

 

[etard]

We told you to put it on the downtube, but NO you wouldn't listen! So now look at you, your a mess and you have to take a holiday just to get your mind right. :wink: :lol: :lol:

Well, I know you don't want to mess with that pretty blue frame, but couldn't Steve fashion some clamps custom fit around your tube and use a set screw for the clamps where the water bottle cage screws are. This could control twisting and be a fairly strong setup. Or you could weld tabs onto the downtube, or a piece of "C" channel that goes around the mount plate. I mean, I think you have to ask the question: Am I ready to dedicate this frame to being electric? When I see all the high-end components you put into this I can't imagine the frame being close to the most expensive part of this build.