E BIKE MY1020GDA 60V 1000W YK43B 24-60 V Controller

ok guys now that i have reduced my back wheel sprocket to 22t i am kind of wondering maybe i should go with MY1020Z3 36 Volt, 600 Watt, 3300 RPM Non-Gear Reduced, 21.3 Amp, permanent-magnet motor, but again my gut filling is telling me to just use same motor MY1020-B 60 Volt, 1000 Watt, 3000 RPM, 19.4 Amp, permanent-magnet motor and risk burning it again

motor needs to be able to handle hills daily

MY1020-B 60 Volt, 1000 Watt, 3000 RPM, 19.4 Amp - load speed 950rpm
MY1020Z3 36 Volt, 600 Watt, 3300 RPM Non-Gear Reduced, 21.3 Amp - load speed 1020rpm

i just don't know what to do, through my research here i didn't see anyone complaining about MY1020Z3 smoking or burning up as much MY1020 60 and 48 Volt

motor sprocket 11t
hub sprocket 22t
direct drive
 
ok Im not sure if this will helpf but look on craigslist for free treadmill. Ive gotten 2 already. Those are dc motors, but they can handle more power then you can get to them. I have 2 motors already that I am using but still deciding on my motor. I have one which is a 90volt motor at 4,000 rpm and a 130v at 6,000rpm. But they can handle well over 2,000 watts, and they turn pretty good just off a 12volt battery. But you cant beat free. Only issue I SEE IS THAT YOU ALREADY HAVE YOUR BIKE SETUP FOR the other motor. Treadmill motors tend to weigh about 12-18lbs. But I have not hooked up motor to bike still debating on the setup I want.
 
hi DATABASE00,

no doubt that treadmill motors are great, but not for bicycle conversion, they are mostly used with trikes.

i did thought about it but to mount it on to bicycle it would be a great challenge, and the end result would be ugly e-bike. you would have to both bolt and weld support for it on to the bike unless you have steel bike then you can just bolt it. also it requires longer chain setup which is not very good idea for e-bike conversion, your chain needs to be closest to hub sprocket or driven sprocket as possible.

the e-bike motor needs to be light and efficient, think battery weight. less weight on the bike more batteries you can add on it. also e-bike needs to look nice, not like some i have seen with treadmill motors (junk yard class i'd say) i wouldn't sit on it even if someone paid me :D .

my bike if i ever complete it, looks good as it is, currently i'm building the mid frame battery box which i will be able to remove and bring it in with me for charging, kind of convenient.

always think of this when you are make something; creation is mirror
 
are you still able to peddle pretty good with those batteries there?

how does your motor deal with hills?
 
i killed the motor at first try, numb nuts had chain to tight,
there were so many bad comments about my1020 48v - 60v motors overheating if you go over hills that now i can not decide which motor to choose from.

when i tested pedaling was not a problem even with mid frame battery setup 4 battery total 7" wide side to side, easy as it can be. currently i am just working on cosmetics till i decide which motor to pick.

also if the pedals become to close once i add 2 more beckup batteries i will just buy little bit wider pedal cranks, current measurement in b/w pedals is 6" and with new pedals i can go up to 9" in width. there is all kinds of crap on e-bay for bicycles it's unbelievable, i love e-bay so much i'm thinking of naming my first kid after it :D
 
lol nice, I almost got that motor off ebay when I started looking as well. I didnt even think about wider cranks. it might give me some options down the road.
right now for next 1.45 hrs there is a motor that I was debating on for a bit but cables need to be rewired
Briggs & Stratton Brushless Etek 6hp 24V 36V 48V DC Motor
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290706776349?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
but strong and compact. might be a good choice. usually they are 600 currently its 199. go ebay lol

but probly to much motor for a bike.
 
the motor is expensive but good, it is actually perfect solution for what we are building

only thing is it seams little to small for 48v unless they tweaked the winding, so i would be careful
 
but yea im sure that motor will sell for 275 atleast. it has alot of praise on the internet for battlebots lol. so even if its more than half off retail its still expensive. I havnt found anymore on ebay that caught my eye as of last week. but I recently stopped looking now im focusing on batteries lol. then figure out how to charge them all.
 
i just did research on these etak motors and no one is recommending to run these motors dry it has to be cooled at all times. kind of like my1020 motors

only thing i like about etak they give you connection for cooling while my1020 got no options

did you try to go with SLA12 12h rhino batteries, 9lbs, i got some for my bike, they are strong and powerful batteries. i don't care what people say, i have tried these batteries on my little Honda civic and let me tell you they are strong and most importantly they are very low price like $25 - $30

and also lets say you have 60v motor you need to run only 4 12v 12h slas and get full power and hours while those little once lipo or whatever everyone is talking about if you have 60v you have to have 60v worth of battery and also those batteries tend to explode kind of dramatic A.
 
I like those batteries I might have to use them, currently for testing I have 4
Uv_UB12180_5.jpg

of these but are just a little large and bulky but so close, well see what I decide on. I might just use them
 
o' yeah thats' ok, i got rhino 12v 12h 3"x3"x5" long 6 total 9lbs each, i am very satisfied

guys who run their e-bikes off road love those batteries, just because they are durable, also people in Africa use them as source for their lightning systems, they plug them in directly on to solar panels with out any kind of relay or voltage controller.
 
does anyone know if this motor would be good for my application?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=5141
 
i saw those motor and saw that they were 48v motors but they can handle alot of amps. in order to get power you need alot of batteries, But Im not sure how the handle. look good size thow.
 
well, I've sent e-mail to hobby king support center specifying my bike setup details including the controller i have, hopefully they will reply with some good news, otherwise i have no choice but to get stinky MY1020 60v motor again and risk burning it again.

i have already 6 12v 12h batteries, 4 already setup to run MY1020 60v and 2 chilling out till needed

man that outrunner motor is compact and cheep like $86 vs MY $115 on e-bay,

the main thing about outrunner that i found out through 5 hours of research is that when it crapes out it is easy to rewire with 14g wires 17 turns, bearings are easy to remove and so on

the only problem my bike is 29nr
 
ok i just found out from reading posts here that this motor TR 80-85-B 170Kv Brushless Outrunner can be used only with gears, can't be connected directly on to hub driven sprocket.

kind of bummer, a
 
if you do go with that motor again I would probly recomend blower fan or something to help cool it, or possibly lower your volatage and use the other battery for accessories or for a turbo button setup.
 
say if i get it a, i would spend at least $100 on gear system design & development (extra sprockets, aluminum, shaft, freewheel, new motor mount design and development, i love the idea but damn money is the issue.
 
yeah I know Im building this, a sandrail and still needing to save up for a damn ring for the girl. LOL Atleast the truck is paid off.
 
there is sooooo many posts on here about these motors that after checking all of them out for last 8 hours and thinking about it, i ended up just getting more confused

i would realy like to buy some sort of turnigy motor maybe inliner, but i just dont have any idea if it will work with my direct drive setup and equipment

is there anyone experianced with turnigy motors that can give some sort of advice what to buy,

please guys :cry:
 
If you want to use a small high speed motor, you're going to need to gear it down a LOT to be able to drive a load at lower speeds for startup. Those things are all designed to run at hgih speed driving a propeller, whihc is not much of a load at startup's lower speeds.


The gearing issue vs what the motor is designed to run at, at a particular voltage, is going to be something to deal with no matter what motor you get, if it is not already designed to run at the speeds of your bike wheel at the power levels necessary.
 
thank you amber man, that explains it

so i'll just forget about it is just not possible without having some kind of gear box made

i'll probably go again with same MY motor, use it with chain little bit loosen and from time to time concentrate on making some sort of gear box for it so motor is not pushed or stressed to the limit under work load.
 
current re-setup of equipment

- MY1020-B GDA 60V 1000W electric motor TNC SCOOTERS
- YK43B 24-60 V Controller with throttle TNC SCOOTERS
- rhino 12v 12ah SLA battery * 4 pcs total 48v serial connection 9lbs each
- 40amp fuse (connected in b/w battery and controller)
- hub 22t sprocket
- Sprocket Adapter (Clams Shell Small- CSS)
- Bicycle MY1020-B sprockets 11t TNC SCOOTERS
- #415 chain
- 5" x 3" x 6" 10GA Angle Bracket
- 16g wires black & white, Walmart kind

once all installed will post video of it running

future developments
- the bike electronics control board/box
- the gear box
- the fan motor cooling system
- custom 15t freewheel adapter for my1020-b shaft
 
amberwolf

you seam to know much about these to e-bike conversions, now my question is

how do i test YK43B 24-60 V Controller, without engine to see if it works :?:

i have done a lot of research on here and i just cant find anything that clearly explains how to boom boom boom step by step.
 
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