E BIKE MY1020GDA 60V 1000W YK43B 24-60 V Controller

should i just take volt meter and put black on black and red on red while controller is connected to battery and mess with throttler and see if it explodes or give me some kind of read out or whatever.

wouldn't you think that my old ass should know already about this stuff, a :D
 
hi guys

check this motor out

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-HP-24V-DC-VEHICLE-ELECTRIC-MOTOR-BIKE-PUMPS-GOKART-/230776720571?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35bb5d4cbb
 
darkangel said:
how do i test YK43B 24-60 V Controller, without engine to see if it works :?:

i have done a lot of research on here and i just cant find anything that clearly explains how to boom boom boom step by step.
Click to expand...
That's probably because it is different with each controller and each problem. ;)


With brushed controllers, then they will output pulses of full-pack-voltage, with longer pulses for more throttle, and shorter ones for less throttle. A lower average voltage will result from the latter, and higher average from the former. Since a digital multimeter often samples at a rate that ends up showing not the average voltage but rather a fluctuating voltage, you could put a regular wall-powered incandescent light bulb on the output, and it will light up less for lower throttle, and more for higher. It won't light very brightly even at full throttle, because there sin't enough voltage total to do that, but it will still show you if the controller is doing anything at all.

You can also use the multimeter to try to read the voltage across the bulb, if you like. An analog meter would be easier to read in these situations.
 
ok i got small sprocket on the bike and it is ugly, forget it

now i am brain storming again,

is there some kind of hub for bicycles with threads on both sides?

i would take of my spokes and sprocket set and re-install it, and on the other threaded side i would install freewheel.

is there such a hub, i don't even know if such a thing exist, what do you guys think?

let me know
 
Do a search for flip-flop hubs. They are commonly used on BMX bikes and fixies, and they may be the solution to your problem. I have built two ebikes using flip-flop hubs and have really liked them. You can also buy a replacement rear wheel for the Currie Ezip line that comes with freewheel sprockets on both sides.
 
thank you scoot 440, that is great

the flip-flop hub :D sweeet, i have 29" wheels so Currie Ezip wheel wont fit

would you by any chance have a link for some kind of distributor that has these hubs and freewheels,
 
IM FIGHTING SAME BATTLE i WAS ACTUALLY DEBATING ON USING A LARGE SPROCKET WHERE MY BACK DISC ROTER BRAKE ATTACHES TO WHEEL. NOT THE PRETTIEST BUT WANTING TO MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS MOVING AND GOOD SPEEDS BEFORE WASTING A BUNCH OF TIME ON THINGS THAT WONT WORK TOGETHER. Sorry for caps
 
ok i just looked and found this, but it cost a lot. do you guys know anything cheaper then this?
this setup is actually what i was looking for and it looks awesome, kind of solution to my pain, a :D
http://www.staton-inc.com/store/products/Rear_32_Hole_14_gage_Hub_Left_and_right_hand_threads-863-0.html
 
you are correct database00

i am learning everything here hard way, i got small 22t sprocket, installed it on to my hub mount and all looked perfect. then i got sprocket to wobble big time, it just doesn't work any way i try to adjust it, i have no idea why as big sprocket fits perfectly.

so i figured before i give up and discontinue this project i should just try and get some sort of hub that has threads on both sides, install my existing hub sprocket set on to one side and freewheel on to the other side.

but again before i go and spend money i would like to confirm with you guys what would be the best solution to get job done, instead of doing everything on my own and get what i get.

my father always asked me, and this was like in 60s "son, you know why man is smarter then a woman" why? "because he got two heads" :D now i know what he meant
 
about the motor that is alot of amps needed. And weight isnt that pretty looks like my treadmill motors. But seems really strong.
4 HP 24 VDC ELECTRIC MOTOR
45 AMPS NO LOAD
140 AMPS FULL LOAD
8000 RPM FULL LOAD
32 INCH POUND OF TORQUE
¾” DIAM. X 1 ¾” SHAFT WITH KEYWAY
MOTOR DIMENSION 4” DIAM. X 7 ¾”

SHPG 24 LB (ESTIMATED)


Also lookup flip flop rear hibs.

it makes it so the back only has one gear on both sides. one side you always have to peddle other side you can coast, you could put the coasting side for you and the motor side for the motor.
6a01156f7533eb970c01287777d902970c-800wi
 
DATABASE00

so i can install freewheel on to the motor left hand side so motor can coast while i pedal,

on the other side i can take my old set of sprockets and install it so while motor is running i can coast

am i correct? just like to make sure i got
 
well one side of it will always be moving,
so if you put the coasting on your side then you can coast while motor is on dont have to turn your peddles 35mph could get old in a hurry.
but by doing this you motor will still turn if your not using it. depending on controller you could have it charge your batterry while your peddling not using your motor but it does add a little bit of extra resistance, think of spinning motor by hand wihthout power that is what you would be fighting extra.


If you put motor side on the coast you would limit yourself of peddle speed while motor is going good.

would be nice to see if we can find dual coasting sprockets. or use the same coasting procket for both sides have to look into it.
 
hello world,

do you guys know anyone who got flip-flop and freewheels cheaper then station-inc. Station hubs are like extremely expensive at almost $90 without shipping. that's almost price of my bicycle

i have like 36 spokes on my back wheel

let me know, and thank you guys :wink:

update;

David with Station inc just replied;
my question to Dave
is your price including the freewheel and or sprocket?

he replied
"No"

my questions to Dave; gave him link for hubs i was referring to
so, what separates your hubs from the other hubs that are selling for $45 to $50 dollars while your hubs are very expensive at almost $90 not including shipping?

he replied
"They did sell for $129.00 + S & H"

:shock:
 
guys :!:

i have found this hub on e-bay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORMULA-36h-BLACK-TRACK-FIXED-GEAR-REAR-BIKE-HUB-SEALED-CARTRIDGE-FLIP-FLOP-/230768465777?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35badf5771#ht_4000wt_988

what do you say will it be good fit for my conversion?
 
I do not know if they are up to the power of your design, but here are two freewheels with left or right hand threads that should be easy to adapt to most sprockets: http://tncscooters.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=63_114

And here are some fixie wheels that may offer you some other possibilities. http://www.custommotoredbicycles.com/fixed_gear_parts_single_speed_bicycles700c_wheels_flip_flop_hub
 
thank you Scoot buddy,

the second link you gave me is just awesome $80 for whole wheel that is just awesome, i have to send them an e-mail and see how much for shipping the whole wheel cog, cog lock and freewheel

also i have found some sort of bike shop near me i didn't know about, http://www.bikeconnection.com/product-list/wheels-1091/hubs-1098/ they have all kind of crap for bicycles bit expensive but OK

i have to do a lot of research before i go and buy anything

i have to find out
1. if i change my wheel or hub to flip-flop one is it gong to be able to handle almost 300lbs of weight
2. if cog is strong enough to handle the weight and my chain size, so it doesn't bend like 22t sprocket i got
3. if the chain over cog is going to be to close to spokes as chain is #415
4. if hub is going to fit my bike as there is almost 6" spacing in between back wheel forks
 
ok guys

the problem is i cant find the fixed hub that will fit my bike
120mm or 135mm will not work with this bike, or at least that what i was told by http://www.custommotoredbicycles.com/fi ... p_flop_hub sales person Lynn

she told me that if i have 120mm fixed hub my chain will rub against tire

so all in all i have just hit the brick wall again

any suggestions?
 
You might check with John Robb Holmes on this forum to see if he can build something to suit your needs.
 
Thank you Scoot man

i will probably have to take of my wheel and take it to bike shop and have them figure out hub size for this bicycle. bike shop charges like $22 for recommendations and so on

i need to also look into some tires, stock tires on this bike are heavy as hell
 
ok just got of the phone with genesis bicycle manufacturer and this is what they told me

them; - our bicycle parts are imported from china and made only for our frames, so we cant really tell the exact size of the rear wheel hub you currently have
me; so can you tell me what size of the hub will fit the back wheel fork?
them; - no, we can not as we do not know
me; so you are manufacturer and you don't know what equipment bike got on it?
them; - yes and no, everything is imported from china and all we do is make bike frames based on equipment they send to us
me; so what if something happens to my rim and lets' say it gets bent or whatever and i need new rim
them; - the bent rim is not under warranty coverage, but bent frame is
me; ok then, thank you
them;
"you can try 135mm hub it should fit"
me;
ok
 
can always use any size of hub and mount hub so it acts as second part.
doing it this way chain will alway rotat but only to first sprocket not to motor.
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i am currently looking into BMX flip flop hubs, as this bike being BMX on steroids the hub should fit. the only thing i may have to change is hub shaft or excel

the actual name of my rear hub is JOYTECH SDJ CASSETTE HUB, and thing that all joytech hubs are BMX hubs at only one size i am guessing 127mm
 
darkangel said:
the actual name of my rear hub is JOYTECH SDJ CASSETTE HUB, and thing that all joytech hubs are BMX hubs at only one size i am guessing 127mm
Click to expand...
Is there any reason why you can't measure it?

http://www.joy-tech.com.tw/
 
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