E-S LMX 64 Bike Owners

[hkj]

Thanks for the tip! I'll get to it!!

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Well, 5.5KW is pretty fun/nice on the 64...but I don't know how long the belt would hold up at those levels. Makes me want to make my larger battery a higher voltage...will have to see what I can fit.

Cheers

 

[TorEddy]

I think running 8 of this pack would just work..
https://www.banggood.com/ZOP-Power-...Car-p-1753781.html?cur_warehouse=CN&rmmds=buy

2 batteries long , wide and high would measure 25,6 x 9,2 x 10,2 cm (LxWxH) and give 74 volt with 14ah giving a pack of 1036 wh.
Combined with a 80A BMS, the LMX64 would be a beast with 6kw of power..

The LMX downtube has an internal width of 9,2 cm, so it's a close fitting with no room for the lipo to expand..

 

[hkj]

Anyone knows which socket fits the bottom bracket on our bikes? How many splines? I need to buy a socket for that, the one I have does not fit.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

I think running 8 of this pack would just work..
https://www.banggood.com/ZOP-Power-...Car-p-1753781.html?cur_warehouse=CN&rmmds=buy

2 batteries long , wide and high would measure 25,6 x 9,2 x 10,2 cm (LxWxH) and give 74 volt with 14ah giving a pack of 1036 wh.
Combined with a 80A BMS, the LMX64 would be a beast with 6kw of power..

The LMX downtube has an internal width of 9,2 cm, so it's a close fitting with no room for the lipo to expand..

Careful doing that...check back a few pages and you will see I ordered a bunch of pouch cells that 'should' have fit according to the listed dimensions. They are always bigger...so factor in a healthy buffer.

Cheers

 

[TorEddy]

I think running 8 of this pack would just work..
https://www.banggood.com/ZOP-Power-...Car-p-1753781.html?cur_warehouse=CN&rmmds=buy

2 batteries long , wide and high would measure 25,6 x 9,2 x 10,2 cm (LxWxH) and give 74 volt with 14ah giving a pack of 1036 wh.
Combined with a 80A BMS, the LMX64 would be a beast with 6kw of power..

The LMX downtube has an internal width of 9,2 cm, so it's a close fitting with no room for the lipo to expand..

Careful doing that...check back a few pages and you will see I ordered a bunch of pouch cells that 'should' have fit according to the listed dimensions. They are always bigger...so factor in a healthy buffer.

Cheers

I totally agree. I have yet to see a lipo pack that has not swollen up after some time..

 

[Cowardlyduck]

I totally agree. I have yet to see a lipo pack that has not swollen up after some time..

I'm not even talking about swelling...just the dimensions listed compared to what you actually get.
Back in the day I made complex plans/designs for a huge pack in my Stealth Fighter all based around a specific Zippy compact pack from Hobby King. Only after ordering them all did I discover they were all a few mm larger than specified making it impossible for me to make it work.

More recently with the LMX64 I did it again, even though this time I factored in a buffer, it still wasn't enough to make it work how I hoped with the 40AH pouch cells I ordered. Thankfully in both cases I've been able to re-purpose the cells and use something else instead, so I don't mind too much.

At least with 18650/2170's they are pretty much exactly the size they are meant to be...I mean it's in the name!!! :lol:

Cheers

 

[spinningmagnets]

"...have yet to see a lipo pack that has not swollen up after some time..."

Avoid getting the cells hot

Add firm compression to the sides

Only use the middle 80% of capacity

Do not charge to above 4.10V per cell.

'Xxxxxxxxxxxxx

Also, congratulations to Cowardlyduck becoming a moderator.

 

[nicobie]

Also, congratulations to Cowardlyduck becoming a moderator.

+1
Nice to see your name in green.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Also, congratulations to Cowardlyduck becoming a moderator.

Thank you! Hopefully I can contribute back to ES a little of what it has given me over the years!


Question for everyone, I stripped the threads on this bolt towards the front of my motor.

It is an M6 bolt which bottoms out.

To fix it I was thinking I could re-thread it to M7, however the hole is blind and shallow so a normal thread tool won't work. I could fill it with epoxy and recut to M6, but that is a PITA.
Any idea's anyone?

Could I just leave it? I do see a small gap between the end of the motor and the frame, but it still seems to run ok without flexing.

Cheers

 

[spinningmagnets]

Try this, take an M6 bolt with long threads, run a nut all the way up under the head.

Clean hole with alcohol (pure alcohol, not beer). Smear outside of hole with grease.. Goop hole with Scotch DP-420.

Run bolt into it finger-snug. Wipe away excess goop. Let it cure over night.

Run nut down up against the case. Use a dremel/hacksaw to cut off head. That stub-end will have a burr. Dremel the burrs to a reasonable clean-up. When you remove the nut, it will straighten any small issues with the threads that were cut.

The resulting threaded stud can be useful, but you might have to cut a side-slot into any brackets it needs to mount to.

Xxxxxxx

Possibility #2

Disassemble case. Drill a through-hole and deburr, clean away chips.

Clean and goop hole with any available epoxy. Insert a steel M6/M8 nutsert so that the flange is on the inside, and then tightening a bolt into it from the outside will pull it snug.

 

[briangv99]

Question for everyone, I stripped the threads on this bolt towards the front of my motor.
DSC_6793.JPG
It is an M6 bolt which bottoms out.

To fix it I was thinking I could re-thread it to M7, however the hole is blind and shallow so a normal thread tool won't work. I could fill it with epoxy and recut to M6, but that is a PITA.

Hey CD, you need a bottoming type of tap. For a stripped out thread into a blind hole, a recoil with a bottoming style tap is the way to go and is not too pricey

https://sydneytools.com.au/product/...v7Kmh6kDxa1Rmmkn1ummUVSAPFQjOAAhoCKYsQAvD_BwE

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Thanks for the suggestions! I like the nutsert idea... Might try that.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

The nutsert trick seems to have worked!
I already had a nutsert/rivnut set on hand which is why I figured I would give it a go.
I had to drill out the hole slightly larger/deeper in order to fit an M4 nutsert.



I also took the opportunity to add thermal paste. I had actually done this already the previous time, so removing/reinstalling was a bit messy, but not as bad as I feared.



A quick test ride and it's holding up well. The thermal paste does seem to help transfer heat to the frame. I also coated the inside of the aluminium sprocket guard for a bit of extra thermal transfer. At 66C on the motor I could feel the frame getting quite warm, though not as hot as the motor, but it can only help.

Cheers

 

[briangv99]

The nutsert trick seems to have worked!
I already had a nutsert/rivnut set on hand which is why I figured I would give it a go.
I had to drill out the hole slightly larger/deeper in order to fit an M4 nutsert. only help.

Cheers

One thing to keep an eye on, the head of that nutsert/rivnut sits higher than the rest of the surface of the motor. That means that the motor and therefore the drive pulley will be slightly misaligned with the rear pulley as the motor will no longer be able to be tightened down flush with the frame. There may be a bit more wear on one side of the pulley and belt and a bit more tendency for the belt to skip a tooth under high load. Washers between the frame and the motor face should square up the motor again, (edit - or drill out the frame mounting hole to clear the head of the nutsert/rivnut)

 

[Cowardlyduck]

One thing to keep an eye on, the head of that nutsert/rivnut sits higher than the rest of the surface of the motor. That means that the motor and therefore the drive pulley will be slightly misaligned with the rear pulley as the motor will no longer be able to be tightened down flush with the frame. There may be a bit more wear on one side of the pulley and belt and a bit more tendency for the belt to skip a tooth under high load. Washers between the frame and the motor face should square up the motor again, (edit - or drill out the frame mounting hole to clear the head of the nutsert/rivnut)

Thanks!
Yes I did wonder the same, but it isn't much difference and after a 75km ride the other day to test that Bomber battery pushing regular 5KW busts it was mostly fine with only occasional belt skips.
I also think I will probably end up getting the 40mm motor anyway so not too worried about this one.
Cheers

 

[briangv99]

... after a 75km ride the other day to test that Bomber battery pushing regular 5KW busts it was mostly fine with only occasional belt skips.
I also think I will probably end up getting the 40mm motor anyway so not too worried about this one.
Cheers

Using that bomber battery must be fun, other than all that weight on your back. What to speed are you seeing with it?

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Using that bomber battery must be fun, other than all that weight on your back. What to speed are you seeing with it?

It was fun, but yeah I definitely noticed the weight on the back...was hard to keep the front down a few times.
Speed didn't really change that much actually topping out at around 72kph, but I suspect that's because I didn't really reconfigure existing limits fully/properly.
Interestingly, on the street heat was not an issue for the motor at all, but once off-road it did overheat quite a few times. Thankfully my fans brought temps down within a few min each time, but it definitely took me back to the good-ol-days of my overheating hub motors. :lol:

I think the sweet spot max power for the 30mm motor is around 3.5Kw...and maybe 4.5Kw for the 40mm?

Cheers

 

[hkj]

72 kp/h? :lol:

I hit 64km/h going down a hill once.. after riding motorcycles for my whole life it didn't feel all that healthy considering my lack of personal protection.

On my normal runs in the woods and mountains, my average speed is around 11-13 km/h.

 

[briangv99]

Quick ride report. Took the LMX64 out and my BBSHD converted Yeti to the top of one of the bigger hills we have here locally.

Both bikes took the 800m of vertical climb, with some 30%+ sections, with ease. We stopped a couple times after each big climb to let the motors cool.

Overall highly impressed what the LMX (and the Bafang with SRAM Eagle 50t) can climb.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Mt Tennant! A decent ride! Believe it or not, I did it on my hub motor powered Fighter...twice! Somehow I didn't cook the motor, but did have to wait for it to cool more times than I could count...the LMX is definitely the better tool for that job!

My 'standard' range LMX64 battery would never make it up there and back...Need to get a move on and put together the big one!

Cheers

 

[briangv99]

Yeah it's definitely not the place for a small hub motor, maybe a cromotor, but even then it would get very toasty hot.

I reckon you'd be right with the stock size LMX battery CD, the bigger rear pulley would be much easier on the little 30mm motor though.

 

[coyboyduk]

hello,
I have a 30mm motor with the nuc controller,
would like to have more torque,
replace with the 40mm?
are there better options?
or does the 60mm motor of the 161 also fit on the 64?

 

[Joe]

Front and Rear lamps with Brake light. LED.

I wanted to post this for some time, just never got round to finishing the schematic.
It only works when I switch on the lights, so no brake light in normal mode. It would be possible to make it work without the lamps being on too. By moving the 12v to the SSR to the 12v pin before the switch.

This works. I been using it like this for months.
These 4 little components are all you need. At the brake lever cable you can solder onto the crimp of the existing pins. Remove the pins first, solder 2 wires and re-insert it. (SSR, Opto & 5v Reg, 560kohm res.) In the picture you can find the component numbers. The SSR is at the bottom of the picture. It‘s tiny. I just push all these wires up above the battery and have a sponge to keep them from moving. They are easy to replace if it ever goes wrong.

 

[Joe]

Does anyone know what cells are being used in the standard battery pack? I am sure this is the Hailong Jaffa pack but I just don‘t know.